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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/7/2005 11:42:12 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:43:32 AM EDT
R134
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:43:53 AM EDT
should be 134a

there should be a sticker under the hood to verify that
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:44:31 AM EDT
there should be a sticker on your radiator support that tells you
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:44:50 AM EDT
All cars after '94 use R134A.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:45:17 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:47:21 AM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
Can I just buy a can and top it off myself?



Yup... some companies sell the cans with hoses attached, or you can buy regular cans and a cheap hose kit. Either type can be found anywhere for cheap, even the Walmart auto aisle.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:52:43 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/7/2005 11:53:37 AM EDT by HeavyMetal]
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:55:38 AM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:

Also, what is the significance of the little glass window?



The sight glass on the drier can tell you if it is low - bubbles while the compressor is on can indicate being low. It should be clear with no bubbles. If it's empty, there are no bubbles, but then a pressure switch should keep the compressor from coming on.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:55:53 AM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
the clutch does move in and out on the compressor in response to moving the switch.



Not good... if the problem was lack of refrigerant, then the compressor wouldn't kick on unless you jumped the lead going to the evaporator (? - big freakin metal tank).

If your compressor is kicking in like it should, then your problem isn't low refrigerant. Do you hear the blend doors moving under the dash when you switch from hot to cold?
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:57:56 AM EDT
Only problem I see with just adding refrigerant is your Jeep is almost 10 years old. A lot of a/c stuff can fail in that time frame.

Might be best if you have a mechanic friend who can check the system for you.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:58:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/7/2005 12:00:23 PM EDT by gus]
You can buy it with or without sealant. I'd try without sealant first - if it takes it another 10 years to leak down, fine. If not, get some with dye in it and find the source of the leak. It might just be an o-ring or something cheap and you can have it repaired pretty cheap. Most folks in the business recommend NOT using sealant, but since I'm a rookie myself and not in the business, I won't say not to.


ETA: Buy several cans of R134 - might not hurt to buy at least one of them with the oil charge in it.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:58:15 AM EDT

Originally Posted By mr_camera_man:

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
the clutch does move in and out on the compressor in response to moving the switch.



Not good... if the problem was lack of refrigerant, then the compressor wouldn't kick on unless you jumped the lead going to the evaporator (? - big freakin metal tank).

If your compressor is kicking in like it should, then your problem isn't low refrigerant. Do you hear the blend doors moving under the dash when you switch from hot to cold?



Sometimes there is enough charge to run the compressor but not enough to cool the air.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 11:59:34 AM EDT

Originally Posted By mr_camera_man:

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
the clutch does move in and out on the compressor in response to moving the switch.



Not good... if the problem was lack of refrigerant, then the compressor wouldn't kick on unless you jumped the lead going to the evaporator (? - big freakin metal tank).

If your compressor is kicking in like it should, then your problem isn't low refrigerant. Do you hear the blend doors moving under the dash when you switch from hot to cold?



On my car, the compressor would engage but it would constantly cycle (engage/disengage) until I topped it off.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 12:02:07 PM EDT

Originally Posted By mr_camera_man:
All cars after '94 use R134A.



And some before. I recall my '93 firebird was R134a.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 12:10:01 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 12:14:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:

Originally Posted By gus:
On my car, the compressor would engage but it would constantly cycle (engage/disengage) until I topped it off.



It had been doing just that.



I see... sorry, I took what you said as meaning the compressor was running normally. Carry on.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 12:18:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/7/2005 12:18:39 PM EDT by gus]
One other thing - get the kit with a guage in the hose. It's not the full set of guages like an A/C tech would have, but it lets you know where you are in terms of charge. Kit should be around $15-20, Freon about $8 per can - more if it has oil, dye, or sealant. I got mine at Autozone.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 12:27:13 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 12:29:25 PM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
So get the first can with oil but no stop leak?



I'd say so. Get a can with oil and another two cans of just Freon. If it's that low it will take more than one can to fill it.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 1:07:30 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 1:14:04 PM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:

Originally Posted By gus:

Originally Posted By mr_camera_man:

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
the clutch does move in and out on the compressor in response to moving the switch.



Not good... if the problem was lack of refrigerant, then the compressor wouldn't kick on unless you jumped the lead going to the evaporator (? - big freakin metal tank).

If your compressor is kicking in like it should, then your problem isn't low refrigerant. Do you hear the blend doors moving under the dash when you switch from hot to cold?



On my car, the compressor would engage but it would constantly cycle (engage/disengage) until I topped it off.



It had been doing just that.



Sure sign of a low charge. The compressor can be damaged by running with low pressure...overheating, IIRC so all R134a systems use a low pressure cut0out switch.

Most compressors today are variable displacement. Running low pressure creates full displacement and this is the problem.

You should be able to find a simple gauge/charge hose for under $20 with a can of leak check dye and some R134a, call it $30. Cheap fix.
Link Posted: 8/7/2005 1:16:28 PM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:
When the compressor is running, I see a foamy white thru the glass.



Yep, sounds low from your description.

I'd follow Gus' advice - you'll want to add freon until the foam becomes clear. The compressor should quit cycling constantly. You may want to have a friend hold the idle up around 1500 or so to keep good airflow across the condensor while you add it.
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 3:50:27 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 4:02:13 PM EDT

Originally Posted By mr_camera_man:
All cars after '94 use R134A.


+1. But you should probably have a shop do the work.
Link Posted: 8/12/2005 4:33:27 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/13/2005 10:13:09 AM EDT

Originally Posted By HeavyMetal:

Originally Posted By deej86:

Originally Posted By mr_camera_man:
All cars after '94 use R134A.


+1. But you should probably have a shop do the work.



I already fixed it myself. Read my above post.



Give it some time to be sure. It may go still.
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