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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/2/2006 5:12:31 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/2/2006 5:13:42 PM EST by zeekh]
Can you weld or braze cast iron? I broke a part on the tail stock of my lathe today. I'm not sure i'll be able to locate the part for the tail stock
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:14:58 PM EST
I can't....but a lot of people can.

I warped a manifold once.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:15:53 PM EST
I'll defer to the experts, but I think I read brazing works better on cast iron - something about cast iron being prone to warping and cracking when welding it.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:17:06 PM EST
What's the make of your lathe?
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:24:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/2/2006 5:25:49 PM EST by AeroE]
When brazing cast iron, preheat the part to a uniform temperature throughout, and about as high as you can stand to work with.

Welding cast iron is beyond my experience, although I would try it just for the hell of it. I would also preheat for welding and keep the part preheated throughout while making the joint.

I would try to add a mechanical repair, too, if the part's geometry will permit.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:24:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/2/2006 5:30:33 PM EST by Pangea]
99% nickle rod and preheat to a dull red. Stop drill the crack if it doesn't go all the way across the piece. Start at the middle and weld towards the outboard edge Unless it is stop drilled. If you stop drill, start at the drill hole.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:24:44 PM EST
I have bronzed cast many times. It really isnt hard to do. As far as welding it I have never done that but it can be done.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:25:18 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/2/2006 5:27:29 PM EST by 1IV]
YES! you need to use stainless steel / Nickel arc weld rods 2$ Apiece at the shop. It wont be pretty but it will be stronger.

I weld Some cast parts to my art.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:26:04 PM EST

I've welded it before. You need to scarf it out good, then heat it in an oven to 1300* before welding.

You can braze it with a 900* preheat, or you can try a nickle rod with less preheat, but that yields mixed results.

Link Posted: 1/2/2006 5:33:02 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/2/2006 5:34:42 PM EST by wildearp]
I have successfully welded cast iron with 7018 rod (also called LH73, Low hydrogen rod) with AC Arc, and also sucessfully used Mig with standard ER70S-6 & 75/25 Argon CO2 mix. It wasn't in a high stress area, but it looked good and held well. Recently I broke three arms off my drill press handle and welded them all back on and it works.

If it is in a high stress area, then try the special voodoo, also, plan on replacing the part.
Link Posted: 1/2/2006 8:23:12 PM EST
Link Posted: 1/3/2006 2:32:03 AM EST

Originally Posted By Notorious:
What's the make of your lathe?

Its a Victor 1640. It about 20 yrs old but still gets the jobs done. I was adjusting the tail stock because a long shaft I was working on had a slight taper. I tightened one of the adjusting screw and hear a pop. I took the tail stock aprt & found a broken gusset that is used for adjustment.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm no welder so I'm gonna start looking in the phone to see if I can find someone that can do the job.

I've seen many comants about warpage which worries me. I it warps I'm screwed. I may be better off machining the remaining off and bolting a new gussset in place.

Decisions decisions.....
Link Posted: 1/3/2006 2:41:50 AM EST
Two words: Silica Bronze. Works great for dissimilar metals welding and is fantastic on cast iron. Preheating a large cast part is still required though.
Link Posted: 1/3/2006 2:54:48 AM EST
A lot depends on the quality ot the casting. With a crappy casting brazing is the way to go but with very high quality cast mig welding will work just fine. Even without pre-heating in some cases. At least the welds are still holding for me
Link Posted: 1/3/2006 2:59:27 AM EST
They specifically sell cast iron rod for arc welding, no pre-heating required or you can braise it. Been doing it for over 30 years.
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