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Posted: 5/14/2001 12:34:25 PM EDT
With all the rising gas prices, I was wondering if anyone knows a few tricks to make a vehicle more fuel efficient, such as special plugs, wires, air filters, etc. Do plugs like "Split Fire" work? Anyone have any other secrets? I drive about 2,000 miles a month and gas prices are kicking me square in the nuts.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:39:14 PM EDT
Wear a cup
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:47:00 PM EDT
I'd recommend keeping it in a good state of tune, with new high-quality plug wires, cap, and rotor, and making sure your air filter is clean. Have your fuel injection system cleaned as well, in order to ensure it's spraying the most efficient pattern possible. These steps will make the most difference of anything you can do. Next, try filling up with the next higher grade - the higher octane means the fuel/air mixture will ignite later and burn faster, putting all its power into a shorter-duration "push" on the piston. For the same reason, replace your spark plugs with high-quality standard-type plugs (Bosch Platinum, etc) and gap them 0.005-0.010 above normal. This will cause a hotter spark because more voltage will be required to bridge the gap. Lastly, accelerate slower and use the brakes as little as possible - jackrabbit starts are big fuel wasters, and every time you brake you're just making it so you'll have to use more fuel when it's time to get back up to road speed. As often as possible you should coast to slow down a bit, rather than braking from 50-40 or so.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:49:54 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:53:14 PM EDT
Isn't it also true that when you brake the computer increases the engine RPM so more vacuum is provided to the brakes? Another good reason to remove your brakes entirely. :)
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:53:16 PM EDT
Use the cruise control if you have it. I can get a little more out of my tank. I also use a high octane gas and keep my injectors clean. I can wring about 31 or 32 mpg(highway) out of my 93 Taurus.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:58:14 PM EDT
Keep your tires properly inflated. When you run errands, combine your trips so that you are mostly starting your engine when it is warm. Don't idle to warm up your car. Turn it on and start driving, just don't gas it until it warms up. Don't gas it. Heavy acceleration consumes alot of fuel. Follow the manufacturers recomended service schedule. Run the lowest octane fuel that doesn't cause pinging. It won't do any thing for your mileage, but you don't want to pay for extra ping resistance you don't need
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:59:56 PM EDT
Run 40 - 45 lbs air pressure in your tires. If it pushes, run more in the front tires, if it's loose run more in the rear tires. Arock runnin 'shine.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 12:59:57 PM EDT
Push your car to and from work. [:D]
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:00:49 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 1GUNRUNNER: Wear a cup
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Everyone is a f#$%king comedian. [beer]
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:06:06 PM EDT
Switch to neutral and coast down hills and highways. Better yet, just turn off the engine.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:08:26 PM EDT
buy a moped![:D] Milldude
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:08:58 PM EDT
High octane fuel? Don't tell me you guys have fallen for the octane myth. Unless your engine is 10:1 or higher compression, you're just making Shell/Mobil/Amoco/Exxon happy. Stick with the tried and true solutions already presented; engine tuned to specs and properly inflated tires (how many of you actually check that?). And skip the gimmick parts like Split-Fire plugs. New spark plugs of the correct type will make an immediate difference over ones with eroded or fouled electrodes.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:31:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/14/2001 1:47:51 PM EDT by erickm]
run an ice can on your fuel line hood scoop or under bumper scoop anything to get colder air in there, don't run directly to the air horn this will have a supercharging effect, just close to it so it picks up cold air a high flow filter theoretically won't give better mpg itself, however not as much engine power will be used pulling air in and will put that power to the wheels and let you keep your foot out of it a little bit. taller skinnier tires or higher (lower numbered)rear-end gears (although you'll never know the increase in mpg unless you change the speedo gear) A racing coil can help a lot as long as you use the right high-temp plugs and thick wires with it. un-belt power steering pump if practical for you (lots of highway driving) and IF possible, this can damage a lot of steering systems. replace radiator fan with an electric if it's engine driven. headers and dual exhaust, real expensive and a big pain if this is a post-ban, you'll have to buy a second cat and a special one piece headers set with o2 sensor hole and recirc stuff. And don't run the AC! or drive at highway speeds with windows fully open, the drag will take away probably as much as the AC did.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:33:36 PM EDT
oh and remote controlled exhaust dumps are REAL fun!
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:38:13 PM EDT
Originally Posted By NH2112: Next, try filling up with the next higher grade - the higher octane means the fuel/air mixture will ignite later and burn faster, putting all its power into a shorter-duration "push" on the piston.
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This statement is incorrect. The higher octane fuel burns SLOWER not FASTER, which results in a longer push on the piston. This does increase efficiency slightly but not enough to offset the cost of the fuel. If your engine is not pinging, you are just throwing money away. Another way to increase efficiency, although I'm not sure how feasable this is, is to add a water injection system. You would need a system that injected vaporized water--DO NOT stick a garden hose down your intake or your engine will self destruct. The water vapor helps increase efficiency two ways. It lowers the air temperature thereby making it denser--more air, better combustion. The lower temperature also causes the fuel to not spontaneously combust (pinging) but allows it to burn at a slower steady pace, almost like using a higher octane fuel. Other fuel savers include proper air pressure in tires, good alignment, clean oil, air filter, plugs, etc. Good luck brian73
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:40:40 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 1:49:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/14/2001 2:07:03 PM EDT by oneshot1kill]
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 2:03:30 PM EDT
Yup, heard about overinflating your tires to improve mileage. And that occurs because as your tires get harder, friction and rolling resistance goes down. There are a few downsides to this: Loss of traction. The weight of your car combined with your suspension geometry was designed with a certain contact patch in mind. While straightline performance might not suffer, taking an ramps and curves at speed might get interesting. Hydroplaning resistance could also suffer. Increased vibration and harshness. Unless you're on brand new asphalt, you're hands are going to be numb on those long trips. Increased tire wear. You'll accelerate wear down the middle of your tires. Depending on how much your tires cost, it could get really expensive.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 2:13:51 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FrankTheSpank: Push your car to and from work. [:D]
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I like that. That was very good!
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 2:19:32 PM EDT
Look what incorrect tire pressure does to the Ford "Exploder". How about buying a little commuter like a Ford Escort, Honda Civic, Nissan Sentra, Saturn, etc.? On the weekends you bring out the V8.
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 2:29:54 PM EDT
2000 miles a month? Holy cow!!!! Maybe you should get one of those hybrid cars. Great on the milage. Get a cup? LOL that is just messed up[:)]
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 3:05:02 PM EDT
Drive down hill as often as possible . Buy a horse . One horse power per horse .
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 3:39:22 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/14/2001 11:06:20 PM EDT
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 5:31:29 AM EDT
Never be late for anything. When your late you speed. When you speed you waste more gas. You can actually watch the gas guage go down if you have a V-8 [:D]
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 6:24:03 AM EDT
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 6:54:51 AM EDT
I take my foot off the gas pedal before I get to the next shifting point, say 1/2 to 3/4 of where it normaly is supposed to shift. It makes the transmission shift to a higher gear faster,thus saving fuel. As performance is effected, you have to experiment with your cars transmission and learn where you can do it, a busy traffic situation where you need to keep up with traffic might not be a good place to do it.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 7:01:45 AM EDT
I never like the little Tonka cars either. Right now I'm driving a 95 4 door Chevy Blazer. The worst thing I did for my gas milage is put on some 31" tires. They take about 40 miles off the total range on a full tank and rub sometimes when I am "playing." But they sure do look schweeet!
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 7:18:32 AM EDT
While we're on the subject of automotive performance, have any of you heard of the Jacobs Magnum Ignition system? The system looks like a giant transformer/capacitor you mount under the hood. It varies the spark energy (according to demand) by as much as an additional 1650%. My question is; what is this really doing? Spark plugs come rated for all sorts of things such as length, temperature, and spark duration, correct? The auto companies determine the type during the engineering and testing of the engine for a wide range or operating conditions. So what happens when you turn your little spark into a lightning bolt?
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 7:21:18 AM EDT
I have tried Rapidfire spark plugs. Using a bit of statistical analysis, I can safely state that these plugs help! With the Rapidfire plugs (AC Delco) on a 3.8L V-6 with 100K miles. I racked up 9% (1.78 mpg) higher MPG. This test was 20 tanks of gas for each plug type, and the driving 'style' was 'less than 100 miles per day' for each tank. This restriction eliminated any long high MPG trips from the calculations. If you want the data, I can send it your way as an HTML file. Splitfire plugs showed about a 1 MPG increase on a 2.3L four-cylinder, but I have much less data on these, and no statistical test validity. I have also tested octane and brand recently, on a 4.6L V-8. 87 vs. 93 shows NO statistically significant difference. Amoco vs. Shell shows NO statistically significant difference. It all comes in one pipeline to the local fuel depot, where brand additives are mixed in. The higher octane does help reduce my spark knock, but also adds to the carbon deposits in the cylinders (over time). I inflate my tires to a cold pressure about 2 psi lower than the maximum allowed pressure. When hot, the tires reach that maximum.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 7:30:36 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Wadman: High octane fuel? Don't tell me you guys have fallen for the octane myth. Unless your engine is 10:1 or higher compression, you're just making Shell/Mobil/Amoco/Exxon happy.
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CORRECT! High Octane fuel is designed to prevent detonation in very high compression engines. It wont do a thing for your Honda or Toyota.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 8:37:08 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/15/2001 8:42:50 AM EDT by erickm]
Originally Posted By Wadman: While we're on the subject of automotive performance, have any of you heard of the Jacobs Magnum Ignition system? The system looks like a giant transformer/capacitor you mount under the hood. My question is; what is this really doing? Spark plugs come rated for all sorts of things such as length, temperature, and spark duration, correct
View Quote
I used to use an MSD capacitave(sp?) discharge ingnition box with an MSD blaster 2 coil, the coil and other predecessor hv coils had been in place in my ride long before the box, it just gives you a little bit of extra snap to the spark and eats up the plugs faster, it also could control advance and retard a lot better than a stock gm HEI system especially in the 6k+ rpm range, and it turned 110 ll into rocket fuel! I would assume the jacobs is essentially the same thing I don't know much about them because when I was around that type of stuff jacobs was used mainly in the <8 cyl euro and jap cars. Some of the newer ones are sweet you can plug in a laptop and program your own timing curves at like 10rpm increments. unless your getting incomplete combustion or you want to run a lot of high rpm advance, or use alcohol or airplane fuel or run ultra high compression it won't do much.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 9:01:18 AM EDT
Tail gate semis.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 9:07:55 AM EDT
You want big cuts in your fuel use? 1. Drive less. Walk, bike, combine trips. 2. Drive slower. 3. Use the correct octane in your car, i.e. the lowest that doesn't detonate. Higher octane does not give extra anything but cost. 4. Keep tires aligned & inflated and engine in tune. 5. Play "silly fuel tricks" with your car. Norm
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 9:13:37 AM EDT
When filling up your tank, wait until teh pump clikcs off, round to the dollar if you usually do, and look for the emergency stop/flip down the lever. After shutting down the pump (and the dollar counter), squeeze the valve and hold the hose up - you can get as much as 1/2 gallon from what's left in the hose. I figure the next guy in line gets screwed, though. Anyone tried those fuel line magnets? I can't understand th prinicple (besides capitalism) behind them.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 10:21:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/15/2001 10:20:29 AM EDT by Centauro97]
Originally Posted By Halfcocked: Tail gate semis.
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This really works! The Jacobs system will do wonders, if your engine needs it. It ensures a good spark by constantly monitoring the resistance across the plug gap. High combustion chamber pressures increase the resistance and could cause poor ignition. My only complaint is that it's "guaranteed" or return it for a refund "minus 10%." WOW, what confidence in their product. [>:/] I've always gotten about a 10% increase in MPG by switching to Mobile One. YRMV.
Link Posted: 5/15/2001 10:44:02 AM EDT
The stock replacement K&N air filter will flow more air than a stock filter will. But just because it flows more air dosen't mean it alone will give you an increase in power. Milage...perhaps. The stock K&N filters two best features are the ability to clean and reuse them, and the fact that they actually will work better once they collect a little crud on the filter. About Mobile One, it will depend on the actual state of the engine as to wether it will help it make more power or not. If it used, then the bearing surfaces and clearences are both going to be about maxed out and the parts will be worked in together. Don't run any of that new stuff in engines that are not designed to use it. Stick with the manufacturers oil weights and ratings. Royal Purple and Redline both make fully synthetic oils that are "supposed" to work better than Mobil One. Bottom line? If you are worried about gas milage then you either need to get a job making more money or buy a vehicle that uses less gas. [X]
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