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Posted: 4/29/2014 12:57:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/29/2014 4:12:29 PM EDT by 7255]
Here's the skinny: I have a 1986 Toyota 4Runner, 22R-E with about 230K miles. Used to be my father's truck, then was sold to a friend, friend had engine worked on, truck came back into father's possession, and now it is (except in name) mine. Problem is, the camshaft is stripped to where it won't turn the harmonic balancer, she leaks oil like a sieve, and it seems whomever "rebuilt" her only 80K miles ago missed the day of class where you...


DON'T USE A FUCKING C-CLAMP TO HOLD ENGINE COMPONENTS TOGETHER






Thanks for letting me get that out of my system...

So, while she is out (evidently, the dumb fucks also replaced her tank, and to make it fit sliced the in-tank sending unit, which shorted the pump and would short others, thankfully only a $138 part from Toyota brand-spanking new ), I want to look into what all would be ahead of me to rebuild her engine. I have no garage and mostly just hand tools. The neighbor is a mechanic (and worlds smarter than the idiots whom ravaged her before), and is willing to help.

Should I look at rebuild kits with all the heads, rods, and the camshaft, or should I just save up and shell out the extra $1K for a new engine? I have never rebuilt an engine before, but am willing to learn to make her right again.
Link Posted: 4/29/2014 1:05:37 PM EDT
Get a motor.
Link Posted: 4/29/2014 1:28:21 PM EDT
Dude, taking a motor out and putting another back in is hard enough, let alone taking one out then taking it apart then putting it back together and then putting it back in.
Link Posted: 4/29/2014 7:05:35 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/29/2014 7:06:05 PM EDT by Keekleberrys]
Link Posted: 4/30/2014 2:46:31 AM EDT
Unfortunately, with the way prices for machine work have risen, it's cheaper to buy a remanufactured long block. I priced out parts and machine work for a Ford 2.3 back in '06, and it was cheaper for me to go to my local NAPA store and pick up a long block. I've got over 120K miles on that, and it runs well and burns no oil.
If you really want to and don't mind the extra time and money involved, go ahead and rebuild it yourself.
Link Posted: 4/30/2014 1:39:39 PM EDT
Rebuilding really depends on the block. When I kept popping lower intake manifolds on my 4.2 in my 02 F150…it wasn't too much more (like $1300) to get a 5.0 long block to install in the truck. Had I done that, I may still be driving that truck.

The engine for my Suburban…worth rebuilding. A new long bock would cost $8000…rebuild kit is less than $1000 and the motor is already out of the truck.
Link Posted: 4/30/2014 1:48:11 PM EDT
Honestly, don't waste your time with a rebuild kit for that engine. Just remove and replace.
Link Posted: 4/30/2014 6:44:03 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
Honestly, don't waste your time with a rebuild kit for that engine. Just remove and replace.
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Especially with what is in that picture.
If he used a C-clamp to hold something together on a motor, what else are you going to have to unfuck when you rebuild it?
Link Posted: 4/30/2014 10:02:22 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By hobbsar:


Especially with what is in that picture.
If he used a C-clamp to hold something together on a motor, what else are you going to have to unfuck when you rebuild it?
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Originally Posted By hobbsar:
Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
Honestly, don't waste your time with a rebuild kit for that engine. Just remove and replace.


Especially with what is in that picture.
If he used a C-clamp to hold something together on a motor, what else are you going to have to unfuck when you rebuild it?

Yup. That's what I thought too. Hopefully the monkey fuckery is just that and not anything else
Link Posted: 4/30/2014 10:05:28 PM EDT
You need to see exactly what the C-clamp is doing.

Link Posted: 5/1/2014 3:09:32 AM EDT
The clamp could be something as simple as a broken bolt. Most engine kits for imports do not include any head parts, just bearings, pistons, rings, gaskets and timing chain/kit. Pull the engine and check everything, a used engine is more than likely just as screwed up or more.
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 3:12:41 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
Honestly, don't waste your time with a rebuild kit for that engine. Just remove and replace.
View Quote


Yep, especially for just 1K more.
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 4:39:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/1/2014 4:39:57 AM EDT by LoBrau]
Just buy a $400 craigslist 22re, do a head gasket kit, and swap that in. Sell this one for $350 on craigslist. Have a beer.

ETA: They all leak oil, so you're just going to have to get over that.
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 4:46:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/1/2014 4:46:54 AM EDT by Aare]
no, that's normal for a rebuild kit. not just any C clamp, but a galvanized C clamp. mine also came with elmers glue for the gaskets, safety pins to hold wires away from the engine and a brand new ratchet strap to hold the engine down.
Link Posted: 5/1/2014 1:29:44 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By SCPigpen:
Dude, taking a motor out and putting another back in is hard enough, let alone taking one out then taking it apart then putting it back together and then putting it back in.
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Not hard of you know what you're doing. Then again iv been doing this since birth lol
Link Posted: 5/2/2014 11:29:28 AM EDT
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Originally Posted By Outlaw46:


Not hard of you know what you're doing. Then again iv been doing this since birth lol
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Originally Posted By Outlaw46:
Originally Posted By SCPigpen:
Dude, taking a motor out and putting another back in is hard enough, let alone taking one out then taking it apart then putting it back together and then putting it back in.


Not hard of you know what you're doing. Then again iv been doing this since birth lol


Depends on the vehicle. If it's a Ford or Dodge diesel…it can be a major pain. The firewalls sit above the back end of the blocks so you can't just lift them out (which is a real pain with common rail 5.9's since #6 always seems to be the injector that hangs and melts a hole in the piston or cylinder wall). Some of the older RV's are a pain. I've got to take a 454 out of an older class A. Easiest way its to remove the driver's seat pull the engine into the living quarters and then take it out the driver's access door. Only other way its to drop it which requires a way to pull the front axle that the engine sits on top of.
Link Posted: 5/2/2014 6:03:00 PM EDT
You have a point on the ford and dodge diesels lol we pulled my buddies 7.3 to rebuild it after he broke the skirt off the piston and it was a bitch to do! And pulling a cummins out would be shitty just because they are damn close to being a part of the dash.
Link Posted: 5/5/2014 8:07:42 AM EDT
Actually, at least around HERE... it typically costs MORE to rebuild an engine, than simply buy or order a crate motor, or a long block for a bit less.

But you SHOULD be able to find a good running motor from a junkyard for under $500, and just do a swap. Often, it's the easiest route. It IS typically the cheapest.
Link Posted: 5/5/2014 9:58:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/5/2014 10:08:48 AM EDT by sefus]
I redid my entire 22re in my 864runner a few years back. I went with the theory that if you're redoing it, do it better. I put in better valves, springs, cam, bumped my compression, header and exhaust, AFM... a full mild performance build... so trust me when I say just buy a new engine and do the easy swap. It was a goddamn nightmare of heli coils, timelines that didnt line up and a full on pain in my ass.
Link Posted: 5/5/2014 2:36:31 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Outlaw46:
You have a point on the ford and dodge diesels lol we pulled my buddies 7.3 to rebuild it after he broke the skirt off the piston and it was a bitch to do! And pulling a cummins out would be shitty just because they are damn close to being a part of the dash.
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You do what has become standard practice on a F-seires truck (at least at a Ford service department). Pull the cab…08+ F-series trucks can have the cab off in under 20 minutes…which is how I've seen some Ecoboost's spark plugs changed.
Link Posted: 5/5/2014 2:42:29 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By LoBrau:
Just buy a $400 craigslist 22re, do a head gasket kit, and swap that in. Sell this one for $350 on craigslist. Have a beer.

ETA: They all leak oil, so you're just going to have to get over that.
View Quote


Do that, exactly. I had an 86 pickup that while it ran fine with 285K miles on the original engine, leaked everywhere. I bought a very nice junkyard 22RE with 60K miles for $600 shipped. I re-sealed the oil pan, replaced the rear and front main seals, resurfaced the flywheel, replaced head gasket, valve cover gaskets, timing set, water pump, oil pump, etc and it ran like a top and never leaked a drop of anything. While you have the engine out and mounted on a stand (rent one or borrow one if you don't want to buy one) doing those jobs are a piece of cake.

I bought lots of my parts from engnbldr (EPN on ebay) and never had a problem with any of his stuff. Ted's good people too.
Link Posted: 5/13/2014 5:41:16 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Keekleberrys:
What I would do is get a verified running one for 300 bucks and call it a day. Those motors were made for a long time and are dime a dozen.
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This.
Link Posted: 6/16/2014 11:00:00 AM EDT
Thanks for all the input. After looking at a few other websites as well, the general idea was communicated similarly of "replace, don't repair". So, that's what I'll do
Link Posted: 6/16/2014 2:44:26 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By zapzap:


You do what has become standard practice on a F-seires truck (at least at a Ford service department). Pull the cab…08+ F-series trucks can have the cab off in under 20 minutes…which is how I've seen some Ecoboost's spark plugs changed.
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Originally Posted By zapzap:
Originally Posted By Outlaw46:
You have a point on the ford and dodge diesels lol we pulled my buddies 7.3 to rebuild it after he broke the skirt off the piston and it was a bitch to do! And pulling a cummins out would be shitty just because they are damn close to being a part of the dash.


You do what has become standard practice on a F-seires truck (at least at a Ford service department). Pull the cab…08+ F-series trucks can have the cab off in under 20 minutes…which is how I've seen some Ecoboost's spark plugs changed.


Anyone that lifts the cab to do plugs in any ford gasser is a retard.
Link Posted: 6/16/2014 3:17:29 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By paul463:


Anyone that lifts the cab to do plugs in any ford gasser is a retard.
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Originally Posted By paul463:
Originally Posted By zapzap:
Originally Posted By Outlaw46:
You have a point on the ford and dodge diesels lol we pulled my buddies 7.3 to rebuild it after he broke the skirt off the piston and it was a bitch to do! And pulling a cummins out would be shitty just because they are damn close to being a part of the dash.


You do what has become standard practice on a F-seires truck (at least at a Ford service department). Pull the cab…08+ F-series trucks can have the cab off in under 20 minutes…which is how I've seen some Ecoboost's spark plugs changed.


Anyone that lifts the cab to do plugs in any ford gasser is a retard.


That's how Ford has been doing it…
Link Posted: 6/16/2014 3:26:04 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By Outlaw46:

Not hard of you know what you're doing. Then again iv been doing this since birth lol
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OP says the camshaft is stripped and won't turn the harmonic ballancer. You do the math.
No offense, OP.
Link Posted: 6/16/2014 5:56:54 PM EDT
If I could do it all over again, I would look and see how hard swapping a 3.4 liter engine in it would be. The 4 cylinders are dogs. good engines, but dogs.

Link Posted: 6/16/2014 6:56:40 PM EDT
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Originally Posted By vmax84:
If I could do it all over again, I would look and see how hard swapping a 3.4 liter engine in it would be. The 4 cylinders are dogs. good engines, but dogs.

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It's certainly doable, but a completely different level of effort compared to just swapping a 2.4 for a 2.4, plus at least $1000 more. I'm looking at doing just that for my '88, but there's a lot involved.
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