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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 2/6/2006 5:18:41 PM EST
I want to build a couple of target stands. any one have plans or details on one to hold a D-1?


Link Posted: 2/6/2006 5:20:34 PM EST
Go here...


Target stand on 'roids.

Link Posted: 2/6/2006 5:21:48 PM EST

Originally Posted By garandman:
Go here...


Target stand on 'roids.

Damn....talk about timing.
Link Posted: 2/6/2006 5:41:33 PM EST
I was thinking about one that would hole two uprights and nail into the ground.

Furring strips, square metal - with a spike welded on to stake it into the ground..


Link Posted: 2/6/2006 6:18:06 PM EST
go here read and you can get the parts from home improvement store. and real easy to do.

Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:06:56 AM EST
[Last Edit: 2/7/2006 3:41:44 AM EST by garandman]

Originally Posted By badredfish:
I was thinking about one that would hole two uprights and nail into the ground.

Furring strips, square metal - with a spike welded on to stake it into the ground..



For that I just nailed some 2x4's together in the shape of an "H"

Two legs with two cross members that sandwiched a 3/4" board. The 3/4" board was cut to length to allow the furring strips to be stuck into it.

I'll maybe try to get some pics tonite.

Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:25:23 AM EST
3 10 foot sections of 2" pvc, 4 t joints and 2 90 degree joints. cut 2 "feet", 2 "legs, and 2 cross arms. Snap the thing together to make a square that stands supported by the feet. It is lightweight, collapsable and portable. 2" pvc is the minimum diameter to avoid flexing in light wind.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:40:59 AM EST
I like these:

Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:41:11 AM EST
Just steal a real estate sign. Not that I would know.

Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:50:03 AM EST
I used a 6' piece of 1 1/2 (3/16) angle as my cross member. I position it to an upside down "V" and weld the ends to a 2' flat/angle/sq leg to provide stability. I can burry the legs, cover them with rock, or run a pin through them. I then take six (6) pieces of box steel, 1X3X1/8,about 4-6" long. Four will have a 45 degree angle cut on them and two will remain square.

Determine the width you want. I weld the angle cut pieces so I can place three ISPC type targets across. I well the straight cut pieved on the back side of the V so I can make a window in Tyvek/Typar and shoot down at a target.

The box steel is just the right size for strapping (1X3). I saw this style target at a local shoot and I modified it best for my use. I use the two outside boxes with 6' cross pieces. This way I can place up to three targets across for our PD to qualify on. I like the targets close as it can give the feeling of shooting in a hallway (clos proximity) for the officers.

The price will vary depending on steel prices. It does not take long to make.

Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:55:41 AM EST
I swear by this: glockstore.com/pgroup_descrip/13/101/?return=%3f

However, I got mine for $100 straight from the maker.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:56:31 AM EST
The most common target stand used by myself and members of my gun club consists of two 4' pieces of rebar, four spring-loaded clamps, and a piece of cardboard.

Hammer or push the two rebars into the ground about sixteen inches apart, then fold the cardboard over the top of the rebar. Use the clamps to secure the cardboard to the rebar.

Takes all of ten seconds to put up, is very inexpensive, and destroying any single component isn't a big deal. I've never had any problems with it being unstable in any way.
Link Posted: 2/7/2006 3:59:37 AM EST
I cobbled one together a few years ago. Scrap 2x4s for the base, with slots for 1xs for the replacable uprights, moving box cardboard for backing, and some staples. Staple it all together at the range. I carry tent stakes in case it is windy.

ByteTheBullet (-:
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