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Posted: 1/24/2016 12:30:53 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/20/2018 7:41:11 PM EST by Ryan_Ruck]
Just a warning, I'm going to be as detailed as I can so this will be a long read!

After I posted I had just purchased a surplus HMMWV in this thread, at the request of Schott8283 I'm starting this thread to lay out what I've gone through in the purchase process for people who may be interested in purchasing one too, with the hope that people who know more than I do chime in and fill in any blanks I'm sure to leave.

Here's my truck I just bought:



















She's a 1994 M998A1 with a 6.2L diesel with 38,669 on the odometer. She runs and is intact from what I can see in the pictures (minus a broken mirror). There were 50 bids on my truck with me winning it at $9,500, up from a $5,000 opening bid.

First where do you find HMMWVs for sale? Just head on over to GovPlanet, the company awarded the contract by the US Government to sell off these trucks, to find the current inventory. From what I have heard, this was a first batch of roughly 4,000 trucks released by the government to see how sales would go. Sales started about a year ago and they are more than half way to 4,000 (2,600ish as of my posting this).

From there you will be able to narrow the inventory down by state and auction end time. Auctions are held weekly on Wednesday. Inventory listed is typically out two weeks.

Definitely read through the FAQ thoroughly. It will answer almost any question you've got. That said I did run into a mistake in it that has yet to be corrected by GovPlanet that I will detail below.

Now you'll have to decide if you want to buy something close enough to pick up yourself or if you want to have it shipped to you.

Shipping will, of course, cost more the further the truck is from you. That said, picking it up yourself can be cheaper if you live close to where it is located or don't mind a little travel. My truck I just purcased is about 4.5 hours from me so I'm going to be making a day of picking it up with my brother and a friend.

If shipping it, you will have the option to get an estimate from Veritread on shipping it from where it is located to you. This can found on every truck's listing on the right hand side.

If you are picking it up yourself, you can either trailer it or flat tow it.

Trailering is preferable from what I've read from people that have done both. Flat towing can be a bit of a task as the HMMWVs can manhandle a truck that is not up to the task. To flat tow it safely you'll need the military tow bar setup designed for the truck. The complete tow bar package will likely cost you $400-$600 if you can't find one to borrow. You'll also have to disconnect the half shafts (shafts that connect from the differentials to the geared hubs that drive the wheels, also known as portal axles) to safely tow it without damaging the transmission or transfer case. Just putting it in neutral will not suffice as either the transmission or transfer case will not properly lubricate itself. I can't recall which off the top of my head without looking it up but, trust me.

If you want to trailer it but don't have a trailer you can rent a U-Haul flat bed transporter trailer. It must be one of the newer models (galvanized as opposed to orange painted). The newer ones are wider and have a higher weight rating than the older ones. Also, if you truthfully tell U-Haul what you are planning on putting on it, they will deny you the rental because they believe it is too big/heavy. You'll have to... *ahem* stretch the truth as to what you're putting on it. From what other people have said, the HMMWV will fit (albiet snugly) and the trailer can handle the weight.

If your truck is running, when picking it up, bring fresh batteries and an air pump so you won't have problems loading it.

Now for the error in the GovPlanet FAQ. You may see in the FAQ that if you have your truck shipped to you, you will not be liable for the sales tax for the state it is in if shipping it out of that state. This is incorrect straight from a GovPlanet rep I spoke with on the phone after I made my purchaes. They are collecting sales tax regardless of whether you have it picked up by a shipper or pick it up yourself. I was originally going to pick it up myself but found through the Veritread estimate on the site that it would have been cheaper to have it shipped if the sales tax wasn't collected. After the purchase I called GovPlanet to find out how to schedule the pickup since it can't be picked up until your EUC clears (I'll go into this later). That's when I found out about the tax situation. So, if you are having the truck shipped, factor the shipment cost and sales tax into your final price. That said, if you are tax exempt for any other reason you can get your sales tax you have to pay refunded. No idea how that works but there is a section in the FAQ about it and process for it.

Here we get to selecting the truck you want.

After you've found the truck you want, I recommend picking another one or two trucks you can fall back on should you be outbid. Then again, if you have enough patience, you can always just wait until the next auction. I didn't end up with my first choice truck! I had originally bid on a 1992 M998 that ended up selling for $12,750, above my $12,250 max bid (it had 10,000 fewer miles, looked cleaner, and had a 6.5L diesel and full cargo cover).

When selecting a truck, read the description and look over the pictures very thoroughly. Unless you happen to live close enough to schedule an inspection, that is all you'll have to go off of for vehicle condition. If you do live close enough, you can contact GovPlanet who will put you in touch with the local rep to let you on site to look the truck over. I did not go inspect my truck prior to purchase though I will try to sometime between now and when I receive it.

You will find the trucks listed in various running conditions such as "running", "needed jump started", "needed ether", "not running", or listed otherwise.

Advice I had seen given was that GovPlanet will typically do what they can within reason, short of replacing parts or making repairs, to get a vehicle running so that it will sell for a higher amount. If it isn't running it could be missing vital parts or it could have a cracked piston/head/block or some other catastrophic damage. Needing a jumpstart is likely not a big deal, possibly a dead battery or at worse a faulty charging system. If it needs a shot of ether, it could be a fuel delivery issue or possibly bad fuel. These trucks have been sitting for a while so things like that and flat tires are not uncommon. Again, if loading it yourself, bring fresh batteries and an air pump for this very reason! But, if it isn't running at all, there's quite possibly a very good reason for that and you should bid accordingly while possibly going so far as planning on replacing the drivetrain. Since even if you can inspect it, you can't tear it down, any non-running truck is going to be a gamble.

Besides being in various running conditions, you will also find trucks in various states of repair. Some will be nearly 100% complete while I've also seen stripped bodies on frames with partial engines being sold. A good bit of advice I once saw posted is that if it is missing parts, there could be a very good reason the unit it was with decided to start cannibalizing it. Maybe the transmission is slipping or maybe it doesn't stay running. Regardless it was seen as a more expendable vehicle for a reason. I'm sure a lot of readers, military or otherwise dealing with keeping fleets running, have experienced this first hand. Of course, you will pay more for a more complete and well running truck. Then again if you don't mind a challenge you can potentially save a lot of money. Just know that missing or broken parts that need replaced can add up and potentially be hard to find! My truck had a broken passenger mirror. I figured it wouldn't be a big deal finding some new glass for it since I've done that before on other vehicles. After several hours of searching I turned up nothing and was forced to buy an entire mirror assembly. Individual mirrors were around $90-$100 with eBay being the best source. Given that the individual mirrors were priced what they were and the driver side mirror's paint was pretty faded, I decided to purchase a pair which ended up putting the price of both mirrors at about $80 each since it was a package deal. I also have an ignition instruction plate that is unreadable. Finding a replacement was a chore but was located.

From people with experience, trucks with body damage or paint damage will require extra care in repairing them so bid on those accordingly as well. The bodies are aluminum so typical body repair shops may or may not be able to make repairs. The paint is CARC (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating) and is typically nasty stuff when applied or sanded and requires certain precautions some shops might not be able to handle.

Another thing to keep in mind is that despite what the odometer reading is listed as, it may not accurately reflect the mileage on the truck! Speedometers are switched out without much regard to the mileage except it being recorded in the maintenance logs (which you will not have access to). Compare the trucks typical wear spots with the mileage to see if it matches up. Also, sometimes trucks are put through a depot rebuild and this may be reflected in the odometer reading, especially if it is very low. These trucks will have placards/stickers to reflect the depot maintenance but I have seen that GovPlanet tries to avoid advertising these placards/stickers because they cannot verify if the trucks have actually been through the depot repairs. The part with the placard/sticker may have simply been cannibalized off of another truck that had and if they sell it advertised as having been done, only for the buyer to find out it hasn't, they're libel.

Now we come to the actual purchase.

As I mentioned, auctions are held weekly on Wednesdays.

Each truck is listed at a starting price based on condition. Running trucks are now being started at $5000 (down from $7500) and non-running and salvage trucks are being started at less than that.

The acutual auction time for each truck only lasts for 4 minutes and below is why.

The bidding process is a little bit different than most places you may have participated in. On GovPlanet you can bid at any time before or during the auction using what they call PriorityBid. Here is the FAQ section on what the PriorityBid is:

PriorityBid is our system for placing bids during the preview period of an auction. A significant amount of all bidding in our auctions occurs with PriorityBids; more than 70% of items typically have bids on them before auction day. Because they are placed during preview, PriorityBids have a delayed effect on the price of an item: the price does not change until the auction opens. There are several advantages of using PriorityBids:

You do not have to be at your computer on auction day. When you place a PriorityBid, you specify the maximum you are willing to pay for an item. You will be told immediately if yours is the highest bid placed so far, but you will not know how much of your bid amount remains to protect you from later bidders. Your bid amount is confidential and our auction software will keep you in the lead against competitive bids through the preview and on auction day or until your maximum amount is exceeded. If you get outbid by another PriorityBid, an automatic email will immediately be sent to you.

You can win the item for less than your maximum amount. In our style of auctions, the price the winner pays is determined by the price the runner-up was willing to pay. The final price is never more than one bid increment greater than the next-highest bid. So, if you have little competition, you can win an item for less than your maximum amount. We recommend you determine your "no regrets" price—the price at which, if someone else were to win, you would not regret the outcome—and then bid one increment below that.

Bidding early helps ensure that you are the winner. When competing PriorityBids are placed for the same amount, the earliest bid takes precedence (it has Priority at that price), so submitting your bid early gives you an advantage. You can place a PriorityBid online any time day or night, or by fax during our Customer Care hours.

Freedom to keep an eye out for other bargains. PriorityBids give you the freedom to browse and track other items on auction day without worrying about your "must-have" items. Our system acts as your assistant, constantly monitoring your PriorityBids and keeping you in the lead until the price goes beyond your designated maximum bid amount.

As auction day approaches, you can check the status of your PriorityBids in the Buying List of My Account. Make sure your email address and notification settings are correct in My Account Profile so that you can receive outbid notification emails. Before even being outbid, you can increase the maximum on any of your PriorityBids by placing a new PriorityBid on the same item for your new maximum amount (don't worry, you can not outbid yourself). Like all bids, PriorityBids are binding and can not be retracted nor reduced.

That pretty much lays it out. Bid what you're willing to go to before the auction starts. You won't know what the actual price is but if you get outbid at any point they will notify you via email and you can up your max bid if you want. If you bid a certain amount first, you get priority if someone else bids the same amount after you.

Also, bids are in $250 increments.

When deciding how much to bid, as I mentioned above, you will have to add in sales tax and transportation costs. That's not all though! You'll also have to factor in title costs as well as a 10% buyer fee! The title option with a Florida state off road title, a SF97 (essentially a federal government title), and a bill of sale will run you $150. Just the bill of sale and SF97 is cheaper but, you'll have to know if your state has any problems with dealing with SF97s. The Florida state title option was developed to help buyers deal with states that have problems with SF97s. Just the bill of sale is cheaper still but that may not be enough for some states. Know what is good for your state or err on the side of caution and get the full package!

I bought my truck for $9500. Between the 6% Kentucky state sales tax, the full titling option, and the 10% buyers fee I ended up with about an extra $1750 added to my purchase price. Then I've got to add in trailer rental and fuel costs to go pick it up.

And here we get to the post auction process.

So you've won your auction! Congratulations!

There are now some steps to take to finalize your purchase.

You will start by going through the checkout process. Here you will decide if you're shipping your truck or transporting it your self, selecting your titling options, and then finalizing the invoice total based on the options. After the invoice is finalized you will pay GovPlanet via wire transfer. Payment must be made within 3 business days or you may incur late fees usually $25-$50 per day depending on final sale price. If you go past a certain time, your item may be considered abandoned and you get charged an even bigger fee. There's also other stuff listed here.

But paying for it isn't the only thing you have to do!

On your account page you will be sent links (on the right hand side of the main account screen) to fill out your Hold Harmless Agreement which gets sent to one email address. You can print it out, physically sign it, and then physically mail it in. You can physically sign it, scan it, and then email it in. Or you can digitally sign it and email it in.

Most importantly, since the HMMWV is a defense article, you will have to fill out an EUC - End Use Certificate. This basically lets Uncle Sam know the final disposition of the item you're buying - if you're going to keep it, sell it, exporting it or not and if you are you have clearance to. This may seem to be a daunting part but GovPlanet has conveniently set up a form wizard that will assist you in filling it out correctly with descriptions of each field needing filled out. You will also need to send in a copy of your driver's license (preferably) or other government issued ID. Make sure your scan/photo of your license is crystal clear or your EUC may get kicked back after a very lengthy initial time period delaying you even further! Just like with the Hold Harmless Agreement you can send it in using one of the previously mentioned methods. It will be emailed to a different email address than the Hold Harmless Agreement though.

Directions are included with both forms.

First time EUC filers like I am can expect a 8-12 week wait. If you've previously filed an EUC with GovPlanet (GovLiquidation not included!) within, I believe the last year, your wait will be considerably shorter. This part is a bit like the whole NFA application and waiting game!

Here I'm getting to the pickup process and since I haven't yet picked up my truck, can only relay what information I've gleaned.

After your payment is received and your EUC is cleared you have 8 business days to remove your truck or you'll incur storage fees. Now, not to worry, if there are incidental delays GovPlanet will work with you so long as you are making a good faith effort to pick it up. This is word straight from a GovPlanet manager on Steel Soldiers. They simply put that there to keep people from abusing the time given to pick up the truck.

To pick up the truck you'll have to schedule a pick up time. If you are picking it up, it should be as simple as it sounds. If you're having a shipper pick it up, the pick up time will have to be coordinated between GovPlanet, your shipper, and you. You don't need to be on site for the shipper to pick it up.

Since I'm fuzzy on this part if you have any questions it would be best to call GovPlanet for clarification at 1-844-225-8799, Monday-Friday 6am-5pm Pacific.

Once you've got your truck at your site, it is not recommended you hop in and start cruising around! Your truck may have been sitting for months or a year or more!

A full fluid change is recommended. Since these are diesels, Shell Rotella T is a good motor oil. Replace other fluids as recommended by AM General. Specifications can be found in military TMs which are available at Steel Soldiers and other sites. Add fresh fuel, draining as needed to get a good mix to burn off the old stuff.

Check all of your important fasteners like lugnuts to make sure they are secure. Some very important fasteners unique to the HMMWV design are the bolts that connect the differential to the half shaft and the half shaft to the geared hubs. These can work their way out and should have some blue Loctite applied to prevent that. If they come loose they can damage brakes and other equipment!

Check for any leaks GovPlanet may have missed.

If you run into anything that was not on your inspection report, report it right away to GovPlanet to take advantage of their Iron Clad Guarantee which basically states they will disclose any problems as best they can. If they examine your claim and find it valid, they will refund a portion of your purchase price. If it's something internal and you knowingly bought a non-running truck don't count on any sort of refund. If you bought what appears to be a complete truck and it's missing say a mirror or seat, or it has some other problem that wasn't listed, you will likely see some money coming back to you. When in doubt file a claim. Worst case they deny it.

Now at this point we get into a topic that Steel Soldiers will not permit on their site: Titling, plating, and insuring for road use.

If you do bring it up, the topic will be deleted and you may be banned. For some reason they think that violating the purchase agreement and putting these trucks on the road will cause Uncle Sam and GovPlanet to stop selling them.

When you sign the Hold Harmless Agreement with GovPlanet, part of it states that you acknowledge the HMMWV is not roadworthy. The Florida title and SF97 are also stamped "Off Road Use Only":



That said, in many states, there are methods of titling off road vehicles for on road use. Check local laws! We've tried to compile instructions for various states below.

(Old Ohio registration information contained within)
Click To View Spoiler

For insurance, a number of companies out there will insure military vehicles. You'll have to call around. Although Steel Soldiers doesn't allow discussion about insuring the HMMWVs for road use, they do have a list of companies that have been known to insure military vehicles.

If you want technical information on the HMMWV there are two great resources

Steel Soldiers
G503.com

Despite my thinking that banning certain discussions about on road use of HMMWVs on Steel Soldiers is stupid, both have excellent information on HMMWVs and other military vehicles. Steel Soldiers also has one thing G503 doesn't which is a section dealing with the intricacies of purchasing from GovLiquidation and GovPlanet. A GovPlanet manager with the username of "Jwade" also participates in the HMMWV purchasing threads there answering questions and helping clear roadblocks you may run into. This thread is a good place to find him. (Update: "Jwade" is no longer with GP, Phil Hasty has filled his role.)

While waiting for my truck I've already started picking up accessories for it. If anyone wants me to I can go into what I've been picking up and why but customizing your truck will come down to what you like!

So, this is where everything currently stands with me. If anyone who has gone further in the process or has more detailed knowledge spots missing/incorrect information could contribute, it would be most appreciated!


HMMWV How-To Tech Links:

UPDATED 7/19/2017: State Registration Instructions

    Ohio:
    As of April 21, 2017 The State Of Ohio Department Of Public Safety, Bureau Of Motor Vehicles, Title Division sent the following Title Broadcast to all state title offices:



    This is being used as justification by the BMV to (incorrectly) deny accepting the 3803 forms mentioned previously (to the point of claiming the form no longer exists). There have been conflicting reports of whether the BMV is continuing to accept registration for HMMWVs with valid, on road out of state titles. So far there has been no rescinding of on road titles for currently titled trucks.

    THE BELOW IN THE SPOILER BOX FOR THE STATE OF OHIO SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN INFORMATIONAL PURPOSES ON THE PREVIOUS PROCESS!


    Click To View Spoiler

    Georgia: (Thanks to Lawman734)
    The Georgia procedures manual states that to register a former military vehicle, it has to have been titled elsewhere (like a FL or MT title) or an SF97 needs to be provided. You'll need a VIN verification regardless (form is available at the tag office).

    SF-97 - Even if it's not in your name, a bill of sale is sufficient from the original owner (GovPlanet) to the new owner (you). This works ok, but you're at the mercy of the clerk regarding the "Off-Road Use Only" part. Many are ok, others get a hassle.

    Off-Road Florida titles - These don't seem to be an issue, but again - you're at the mercy of clerk on how they want to handle it given the fact its an off-road title and offroad vehicles in GA don't require registration.

    Montana titles - These seem to be the easiest to work with and the most hassle free.

    Prepare yourself so that it appears you know what you're doing. Bring the Title/SF97 along with your completed (signed by LEO) VIN Verification form and proof of insurance. It's a good idea to bring a photo of the vehicle and the vehicle data plate for good measure, even if not needed. The sales tax you paid will do you no good for the Georgia taxes and fees, but with proof that you paid in Georgia - contact Iron Planet because they say they'll refund your taxes - I'm still waiting on my check after 3 weeks.

    Iowa: (Thanks to beef1911)
    In Iowa you can get a Bonded title. All you need is a bill of sale or paid invoice. You have to apply to the DOT (2 weeks to respond), sign a form for military vehicles saying it meets FMVSS standards, get a bond for 1.5x the value of the humvee ($113 for $7500 bond for 3 years), wait for the DOT for 2 more weeks, then they say you can go get it registered. Same process for if you bought a car and did not receive a title. All this was done over email. Except for the registration.

    Texas: (Thanks to EagleArmsHBAR)
    In Texas, vehicles like a military surplus HMMWV can be registered under several categories:

    1) normal registration;
    2) antique (if over a particular age); and
    3) former military vehicle

    If registered as an antique or for more military vehicle, they don't have to pass inspection, but they are then limited on road use. If the vehicle passes inspection and is insured, it can be registered as a regular vehicle.

    If all else fails in Texas and they won't accept an SF97 for some reason, a title can be obtained by going the bonded title route. Of course there are additional details with any of these registration methods, but that's the basics.

    New York: (Thanks to kevin101)
    My experience with NY was pretty simple.

    1. I called Geico and was able to insure it pretty easily. It's insured as a normal vehicle with full coverage and didn't cost too much.
    2. Brought my insurance card, SF97 marked "off road use only", my reassignment letter from GovPlanet, and the paid invoice from GovPlanet.
    3. I handed everything over to the motor vehicle clerk who looked everything over. She mentioned the off road use only stamp but didn't seem to give it much thought and it didn't come up again.
    4. Due to the truck not having a standard VIN she had to enter the vehicle manually. The only problem she had was having the computer accept the 6 digit ID number. She called a supervisor over who also looked over the paperwork quickly and the supervisor was able to override the system to enter the 6 digits.
    5. I had to pay NY sales tax for the purchase price of the truck. I paid a 6% tax for Kentucky but NY doesn't have a tax agreement with that state. I'm hoping to get a refund from GovPLanet for the KY tax I paid.

    Michigan:
    Sorry, but anyone in Michigan seems to be out of luck with any sort of surplus HMMWV. Your state hates you. Not only are they denying on road registration of newly purchased auction vehicles but, if you buy a HMMWV legally titled out of state they will contact the state of origin in an attempt to get the title revoked and still refuse to title it on road. I'm betting you'll still run into some sort of issues even with the clear titled M1123s too due to ignorance but, who knows.

    I suggest you all get some legislative action going to fix this!

    South Carolina: (Thanks to An51960)
    for the registration process, in SC, I would avoid the Greenville (University Ridge) location (that's where the lady told me I needed a title rather than a "certificate to obtain title"--she clearly had never seen an SF-97 and did not know what to do with it). After the one lady made several trips to ask other agents how to proceed, she said, "My boss will have to call headquarters." HQ was also clueless about how to proceed, however, they did get on a high horse about the off-road notation and state that there was no way to convert an off-road vehicle to an on-road vehicle (though they did admit that you could build a dune buggy in your garage and get it on the road). I ended up leaving there and going to Woodruff.

    At the other location, I buried them in paperwork. I showed them my email where I won the auction, my invoice from gov planet, my email certifying my payment, my notice that my EUC was approved, my bill of sale, my insurance paperwork, my SF-97, and the notarized form transferring ownership from gov planet to me. The attitude at this office was much more figuring out how to help versus how to shut me down. The lady was very confused, but asked a fellow employee how to do things and pushed everything right on through. They told me I was going to have to pay sales tax all over again and get a refund from gov planet for the tax. They said the policy went into effect on 1 July. I pointed out that I had purchased before this date and they let me out of that even though the computer insisted that I pay it again. They kept my invoice showing the payment of state sales tax in case they needed to defend themselves again their own bureaucracy. The lady who issued my temporary tag works at this office and she knew enough to tell me that I would need my government certificate (SF-97) to get a title, so she clearly would've known what it was if she had been the one behind the desk that day.

    I would also avoid the Blythewood location since this is where the Greenville office called.

    UPDATED 8/7/2017: Insurance

    Here's a list of insurance companies that will insure the trucks. Some more easily than others. You should probably call since these aren't standard trucks.

    - State Farm
    - Geico
    - Liberty Mutual
    - USAA
    - Progressive
    - Hagerty

    There are other insurance companies that are out there that may insure these trucks so, if you are able to use one not listed, please let me know and I'll add it to the list.

    Reputable Parts Suppliers:
    So you've got your new HMMWV and are probably now looking for parts to fix one thing or another. Beware there are a lot of new companies popping up to make a quick buck off all of the new HMMWVs hitting the market and may be selling substandard parts.

    If you're looking for OEM HMMWV parts there are really only two good sources:

    - Mac Motors - They carry a couple handy pre-assembled filter kits. Just search for PM-A, PM-B, or PM-C depending on what you need. Otherwise search for your needed part number
    - Hummer Parts Guy - Can search by name or part number.

    Adventure Accessories is another great OEM option but they're geared more towards civilian H1 parts since they're the former Lynch Hummer group.

    BlueHummer Outfitters also sells OEM parts for both HMMWVs and H1s but also has some in house upgrade parts like upgraded spindle nuts, reusable half shaft bolt kits, and flexible caliper side brake lines.

    Two other sources that can be used but are not my first choice:

    Kascar is a popular HMMWV parts dealer but, a number of buyers including myself, believe we have received out of spec reproductions and non-OEM substituted parts. In some instances, Kascar might be the only option available but they I can't really be recommended them as a primary my first go to source. (Updated 8/23/2017: Updating this section as Ron from Kascar contacted me personally today after seeing this post, looked me up by my name and order history, and assured me they always supply OEM parts and, to contact them if there are ever any issues with parts quality. In fairness to Kascar, I'd say after several purchases from them since this was made, my experience could best be classified as a "mixed bag" though I hope any and all future purchases are all positive.)

    Wolfer Parts/ComTac/MotoFino Truck Parts/Augusta Engine Parts has a combination of surplus OEM parts as well as in house manufactured driveline parts like half shafts and suspension parts like ball joints. It appears their "in house" parts are Chinese manufacture but they don't disclose this.

    There are some surplus parts dealers out there that are great to deal with like Equipment Parts Sales. If you don't see it on their site, email them direct about what you're looking for. They've told me they don't always have their full inventory up on the website. They'll also work on prices on bundle purchases.

    There are a number of surplus parts dealers selling on eBay. Of them, the most reputable are beltfed34/Austin Aviation and amtak2/Arrowhead Lake XS Surplus. hdps_corp and militarysurplusparts deal in surplus parts but may have limited HMMWV parts. As mentioned, there are a number of others selling surplus parts. Just make sure if you're buying from them and they're claiming new surplus, they have correct military stickers on the packaging with the NSN or, at the least they have good feedback on the surplus they're selling.

    Lastly, for surplus and especially hard to find parts, get in touch with Steel Soldiers and G503 member 86humv.

    When in doubt though, post here and ask!
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 12:53:12 PM EST
    OST. thanks OP!!!
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 3:14:39 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/24/2016 3:17:15 PM EST by ME2112]
    Something to keep in mind for vehicles listed as "needs ether." The 6.2l is an indirect-injection diesel that uses glow plugs to warm the precombustion chambers for cold starts. If the glow plugs are working ether (starting fluid) will ignite when it contacts the red-hot plugs on the intake stroke. This tends to break glow plug tips off, and they get banged around in the cylinder before being pulverized small enough to blow past the exhaust valve. I've seen brand new 6.2l rebuilds with cross-hatching worn off the cylinder walls in places where pieces of a broken glow plug tip (due to improper starting fluid use) got wedged between the piston and cylinder wall.

    If the glow plugs aren't working, what usually happens is too much starting fluid is used. This can allow fluid to get behind the rings and nearly lock the engine up when it ignites. You'll know it when you hear it happen, the engine will be cranking normally and all of a sudden it wheezes and nearly stops. Broken rings are a fairly common result of using starting fluid in these things. Repair the glow plugs, don't use starting fluid. Installing a freeze plug block heater and plugging it in will help an engine with dead glow plugs start, but you'd be better off installing new glow plugs (see type below) and running a manual switch & relay to operate them.

    Moral of the story? Don't use starting fluid unless in combat. If you do use it, first thing to do is turn the ignition switch to RUN then go get a cup of coffee, a BJ, or take a shit. This ensures that the glow plugs have finished being energized and are cold. Don't turn the ignition switch back to OFF. Remove the air filter element, spray a 1-second blast of starting fluid onto it, reinstall it, and crank. This ensures that only vapors get into the cylinders and greatly reduces the chance of ether locking the engine. IIRC the HMMWV ignition switch isn't an anti-restart type, so if it doesn't fire the first time you don't have to turn it to OFF before cranking again. Spray the air cleaner again and give it another try.

    Be prepared to have to pull the head(s) to get stuck glow plugs out, the tips swell with normal use and catch in the threaded holes. Replace only with AC60G plugs which don't burn out no matter how long they're energized. The stock glow plugs really can't handle being energized for more than 20 seconds or so. You may have to install 1/4" spade connectors on the glow plug wires in place of the bullet connectors, it's been so long since I had to do glow plugs on one that I can't remember what AC60Gs have.
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 3:17:00 PM EST
    Tag for reading later. I'll honestly probably never purchase one, but I like the idea and it seems you spent some time on the write up.
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 3:24:31 PM EST
    I didn't read it all.

    Sure not a non-turbo 6.5L?

    Danny
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 6:06:34 PM EST
    I read it completely. Thanks for this post. I literally just found GovPlanet a week or so ago, and I've told myself that this will be there year that I try to buy a M998.
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 9:13:52 PM EST
    Thanks for the positive reception! I hope this can be a helpful resource for members here.

    Maybe a mod could see it in their heart to mark this thread as a "Do Not Archive" thread.


    I thought of some additional information I forgot to mention in my original post.

    If you are wanting a 4 man truck, don't hesitate to look at the 2 man trucks! The 2 mans are very easily converted to 4 man setups and the parts to do it are not expensive. The 2 man trucks generally don't sell for as much as the 4 man versions so the money you save should be enough to cover a conversion.



    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Something to keep in mind for vehicles listed as "needs ether." The 6.2l is an indirect-injection diesel that uses glow plugs to warm the precombustion chambers for cold starts. If the glow plugs are working ether (starting fluid) will ignite when it contacts the red-hot plugs on the intake stroke. This tends to break glow plug tips off, and they get banged around in the cylinder before being pulverized small enough to blow past the exhaust valve. I've seen brand new 6.2l rebuilds with cross-hatching worn off the cylinder walls in places where pieces of a broken glow plug tip (due to improper starting fluid use) got wedged between the piston and cylinder wall.

    If the glow plugs aren't working, what usually happens is too much starting fluid is used. This can allow fluid to get behind the rings and nearly lock the engine up when it ignites. You'll know it when you hear it happen, the engine will be cranking normally and all of a sudden it wheezes and nearly stops. Broken rings are a fairly common result of using starting fluid in these things. Repair the glow plugs, don't use starting fluid. Installing a freeze plug block heater and plugging it in will help an engine with dead glow plugs start, but you'd be better off installing new glow plugs (see type below) and running a manual switch & relay to operate them.

    Moral of the story? Don't use starting fluid unless in combat. If you do use it, first thing to do is turn the ignition switch to RUN then go get a cup of coffee, a BJ, or take a shit. This ensures that the glow plugs have finished being energized and are cold. Don't turn the ignition switch back to OFF. Remove the air filter element, spray a 1-second blast of starting fluid onto it, reinstall it, and crank. This ensures that only vapors get into the cylinders and greatly reduces the chance of ether locking the engine. IIRC the HMMWV ignition switch isn't an anti-restart type, so if it doesn't fire the first time you don't have to turn it to OFF before cranking again. Spray the air cleaner again and give it another try.

    Be prepared to have to pull the head(s) to get stuck glow plugs out, the tips swell with normal use and catch in the threaded holes. Replace only with AC60G plugs which don't burn out no matter how long they're energized. The stock glow plugs really can't handle being energized for more than 20 seconds or so. You may have to install 1/4" spade connectors on the glow plug wires in place of the bullet connectors, it's been so long since I had to do glow plugs on one that I can't remember what AC60Gs have.
    View Quote View All Quotes
    View All Quotes
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Something to keep in mind for vehicles listed as "needs ether." The 6.2l is an indirect-injection diesel that uses glow plugs to warm the precombustion chambers for cold starts. If the glow plugs are working ether (starting fluid) will ignite when it contacts the red-hot plugs on the intake stroke. This tends to break glow plug tips off, and they get banged around in the cylinder before being pulverized small enough to blow past the exhaust valve. I've seen brand new 6.2l rebuilds with cross-hatching worn off the cylinder walls in places where pieces of a broken glow plug tip (due to improper starting fluid use) got wedged between the piston and cylinder wall.

    If the glow plugs aren't working, what usually happens is too much starting fluid is used. This can allow fluid to get behind the rings and nearly lock the engine up when it ignites. You'll know it when you hear it happen, the engine will be cranking normally and all of a sudden it wheezes and nearly stops. Broken rings are a fairly common result of using starting fluid in these things. Repair the glow plugs, don't use starting fluid. Installing a freeze plug block heater and plugging it in will help an engine with dead glow plugs start, but you'd be better off installing new glow plugs (see type below) and running a manual switch & relay to operate them.

    Moral of the story? Don't use starting fluid unless in combat. If you do use it, first thing to do is turn the ignition switch to RUN then go get a cup of coffee, a BJ, or take a shit. This ensures that the glow plugs have finished being energized and are cold. Don't turn the ignition switch back to OFF. Remove the air filter element, spray a 1-second blast of starting fluid onto it, reinstall it, and crank. This ensures that only vapors get into the cylinders and greatly reduces the chance of ether locking the engine. IIRC the HMMWV ignition switch isn't an anti-restart type, so if it doesn't fire the first time you don't have to turn it to OFF before cranking again. Spray the air cleaner again and give it another try.

    Be prepared to have to pull the head(s) to get stuck glow plugs out, the tips swell with normal use and catch in the threaded holes. Replace only with AC60G plugs which don't burn out no matter how long they're energized. The stock glow plugs really can't handle being energized for more than 20 seconds or so. You may have to install 1/4" spade connectors on the glow plug wires in place of the bullet connectors, it's been so long since I had to do glow plugs on one that I can't remember what AC60Gs have.

    This is an excellent post! Did not know this information about the 6.2L and would definitely save a lot of future headache!


    Originally Posted By Minuteman419:
    I didn't read it all.

    Sure not a non-turbo 6.5L?

    Danny

    Actually I'm not. I thought the A1s got the NA 6.5s myself but as you can see in the listing they did put 6.2L.

    This is another reason I am eager to go take a look at it.


    Originally Posted By 86HMMWV:
    I read it completely. Thanks for this post. I literally just found GovPlanet a week or so ago, and I've told myself that this will be there year that I try to buy a M998.

    This username and post do not compute.



    Honestly, I'm a bit surprised with a name like that you weren't one of the first buyers!

    Frankly, this is a great opportunity to jump in if you have the opportunity. The first trucks were rediculously expensive. They've finally started getting very reasonable. I suspect as they get down to the final trucks, if there is no forthcoming word of new trucks for sale, prices will start getting stupid again.



    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 9:33:26 PM EST
    Thanks. This is good info.
    Link Posted: 1/24/2016 10:52:33 PM EST
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 12:23:23 AM EST
    cool
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 12:58:44 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/25/2016 1:04:18 PM EST by jake-cutter]
    Below is a break down of my experience:

    1: Check the pictures and double check the pictures and the inspection report. The paint on these is CARC which is not the easiest to work with. Running ones go for around ~10K and non-running is the luck of the draw. Some have blown motors others could just be missing the batteries and minor other issues. If you get one that is listed as non-running, know that Gov Planet tried to get it running as they make more on the running ones. 2 man setups are sometimes cheaper depending on location, but can easily be converted back to 4 man. See if it has the upgraded seats (highbacks) as this would be one less expense in the future if it is already done. Color can make a difference on the accessories later on. For example right now green soft top kits (top and 4 soft doors) are cheaper than tan tops, but it was opposite last year.
    2: Be aware of the location you are planning to purchase from. Distance plays into cost of delivery. Some bases are also known to really tear up vehicles.
    3: Understand all of the costs and fees involved.
    -10% buyers premium
    -State sales tax (6.25% Texas)
    -Diesel tax (2%)
    -County Sales Tax (.5%)
    -City Sales Tax (1.5%)
    -Bill of Sales $25
    -SF 97 (government title) $50
    -Delivery or pick up costs

    4: Now bid and hopefully win the one you want and then the wait begins. You have to complete some paperwork (basically be a good US citizen) and get approval before being allowed to pick it up.
    -I bought mine on May 13 and it was not available to be picked up until July 31. I opted for delivery since it was about the same cost a renting a trailer and going and getting it. Make sure to get multiple bids and check their ratings/reviews as I had prices ranging from ~$300 to over $1000 for a ~200 mile trip.

    Side note: The delivery driver did not want to back it off his trailer and wanted me to do it. I thought that was odd, but then he said he had found snakes in several of the vehicles being picked up at Ft Hood. He also recommended leaving it out on the driveway and not parking it in the garage due to the snake issues. I did find a snake skin so his claim was valid.

    5: Start looking at and buying some accessories. The price on accessories has been going up since June of last year when Fox News ran a story in these. For example, a complete soft top kit with doors could be had for around ~$500-600. Now they go for over $2000. My top looked ok, but was dry rotted and feel apart. Some things you need to wait until you get your HMMWV as they may already be there.

    6: Once you get it check it out really good and compare it to the inspection report as some there is a 14 day window to file a claim on their Iron Clad Warranty. Mine stated no oil leaks and all seat belts operational. I had an oil leak (oil pan was not on snug) and the passenger seat belt was gone. Called them and sent them pics and got money back., so the warranty works.

    7: Change all of the fluids and do a good washing. You will be surprised how much dirt is hidden in these. By the way you will still probably be waiting on the title paperwork from Gov Planet.

    8: Insurance and Titling was actually easy once I got all of the paperwork from Gov Planet. The bill of sale came in mid September and the SF 97 (Gov Title) came in at the end of October. I got insurance from JC Taylor for a great price. As for titling, I just took the SF 97 and copies of the receipts showing I paid Texas sales tax and was in and out in 15 minutes. I have a clear title and Texas License plate with no off road restrictions.

    9: So now have fun and build it out how you want. Below is a breakdown of the accessories/mods I have done so far:
    -High back seats for the rear (front was already upgraded)
    -X doors ( I prefer hard doors and the price on these has become insane)
    -Ibis Tek front and rear light bar (remember there are no backup lights so you will want to add some light tot he rear when going in reverse).
    -Changed to mostly LED lights
    -Airlift bumper for rear (you will want to look at a better bumper for the rear as the original one does not offer any protection)
    -M6 Pedestal mount for beltfed in the bed (can't deiced if I want a 50 cal or the M249S)
    -Special Forces tool box for bed.

    I still need to do some painting (have to decide if I want to go green as it is tan now, but finding a tan soft top has been difficult) and re-install everything and I am done except for the gun I want to mount.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 3:15:30 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Something to keep in mind for vehicles listed as "needs ether." The 6.2l is an indirect-injection diesel that uses glow plugs to warm the precombustion chambers for cold starts. If the glow plugs are working ether (starting fluid) will ignite when it contacts the red-hot plugs on the intake stroke. This tends to break glow plug tips off, and they get banged around in the cylinder before being pulverized small enough to blow past the exhaust valve. I've seen brand new 6.2l rebuilds with cross-hatching worn off the cylinder walls in places where pieces of a broken glow plug tip (due to improper starting fluid use) got wedged between the piston and cylinder wall.

    If the glow plugs aren't working, what usually happens is too much starting fluid is used. This can allow fluid to get behind the rings and nearly lock the engine up when it ignites. You'll know it when you hear it happen, the engine will be cranking normally and all of a sudden it wheezes and nearly stops. Broken rings are a fairly common result of using starting fluid in these things. Repair the glow plugs, don't use starting fluid. Installing a freeze plug block heater and plugging it in will help an engine with dead glow plugs start, but you'd be better off installing new glow plugs (see type below) and running a manual switch & relay to operate them.

    Moral of the story? Don't use starting fluid unless in combat. If you do use it, first thing to do is turn the ignition switch to RUN then go get a cup of coffee, a BJ, or take a shit. This ensures that the glow plugs have finished being energized and are cold. Don't turn the ignition switch back to OFF. Remove the air filter element, spray a 1-second blast of starting fluid onto it, reinstall it, and crank. This ensures that only vapors get into the cylinders and greatly reduces the chance of ether locking the engine. IIRC the HMMWV ignition switch isn't an anti-restart type, so if it doesn't fire the first time you don't have to turn it to OFF before cranking again. Spray the air cleaner again and give it another try.

    Be prepared to have to pull the head(s) to get stuck glow plugs out, the tips swell with normal use and catch in the threaded holes. Replace only with AC60G plugs which don't burn out no matter how long they're energized. The stock glow plugs really can't handle being energized for more than 20 seconds or so. You may have to install 1/4" spade connectors on the glow plug wires in place of the bullet connectors, it's been so long since I had to do glow plugs on one that I can't remember what AC60Gs have.
    View Quote


    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 3:22:03 PM EST
    Is there any way to get these titled for road use?
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 4:04:54 PM EST
    Great post and thanks for the information!
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
    Side note: The delivery driver did not want to back it off his trailer and wanted me to do it. I thought that was odd, but then he said he had found snakes in several of the vehicles being picked up at Ft Hood. He also recommended leaving it out on the driveway and not parking it in the garage due to the snake issues. I did find a snake skin so his claim was valid.
    View Quote View All Quotes
    View All Quotes
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
    Side note: The delivery driver did not want to back it off his trailer and wanted me to do it. I thought that was odd, but then he said he had found snakes in several of the vehicles being picked up at Ft Hood. He also recommended leaving it out on the driveway and not parking it in the garage due to the snake issues. I did find a snake skin so his claim was valid.



    I'm tired of these muthafukin snakes in my muthafukin Humvees!




    7: Change all of the fluids and do a good washing. You will be surprised how much dirt is hidden in these. By the way you will still probably be waiting on the title paperwork from Gov Planet.

    A question since you've got yours already.

    I know these trucks can deal with a lot of water inside (more if they have a deep fording kit of course) but do you think there would any problem scrubbing the interior with soap and a brush and then hosing it out, namely the dashboard areas with all of the switches?

    From the pics, mine looks to be quite dirty inside and it seems like cleaning it out like that would be the fastest way.


    8: Insurance and Titling was actually easy once I got all of the paperwork from Gov Planet. The bill of sale came in mid September and the SF 97 (Gov Title) came in at the end of October. I got insurance from JC Taylor for a great price. As for titling, I just took the SF 97 and copies of the receipts showing I paid Texas sales tax and was in and out in 15 minutes. I have a clear title and Texas License plate with no off road restrictions.

    Wow, so you purchased mid-May but didn't get the registration paperwork for 4 months after?!?! Had been reading the EUC thread on SS with mentions of delays with it but didn't realize it was that long with some.

    Very interesting to hear about being able to get a clear title straight off. They didn't ask any questions about equipment on the truck or the stamp on the form?


    -High back seats for the rear (front was already upgraded)
    Mine has the front high-backs but I'm changing all of them over to MRAP high-backs

    -X doors ( I prefer hard doors and the price on these has become insane)
    I'm keeping mine all soft. Want to be able to pull the doors and top off easily for nice weather.

    -Ibis Tek front and rear light bar (remember there are no backup lights so you will want to add some light tot he rear when going in reverse).
    Thought about going with those but decided I want LED instead of HIDs. Picking up a curved LED lightbar for the front. On the back for reverse lights I'm going to replace the antenna mounts that were originally on it and mount some smaller square LED lights under them. Wanted to pick up some IR LEDs for the front since I've got NV but everyone wanted an arm and leg and, since I wasn't interested in the HID Ibis Tek bars that had them, ended up just picking up a pair of these from Sportsman's Guide after I had seen a thread on here in the NV forum. Not bad for $20 each shipped.

    -Changed to mostly LED lights
    Yep, already have LEDs to convert all of the exterior lights - headlights, front turns, rear tails, marker lights, and blackout driving light.

    -Airlift bumper for rear (you will want to look at a better bumper for the rear as the original one does not offer any protection)
    Working on this now. I can't believe how expensive the brackets are. You don't know if there's anyone out there selling a complete package do you? Eventually putting a tire carrier and jerry can carrier on it.

    -M6 Pedestal mount for beltfed in the bed (can't deiced if I want a 50 cal or the M249S)
    Awesome! .50 cal, definitely .50 cal.

    -Special Forces tool box for bed.
    This sounds quite interesting. Any pics and information on this? Was wanting to add some locking storage to the truck.

    I still need to do some painting (have to decide if I want to go green as it is tan now, but finding a tan soft top has been difficult) and re-install everything and I am done except for the gun I want to mount.
    I'm going to be leaving mine green since it works best in my area. However, down the road, the inside is getting a coating of Lizard Skin sound deadener, Lizard Skin ceramic insulation, and topped off with bed liner.

    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 4:26:25 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 7/19/2017 1:10:20 PM EST by Ryan_Ruck]
    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...
    View Quote
    Depends. The 6.2L and 6.5L are pretty common and it's not a bad engine. Just not the most powerful. You could definitely swap it out if you wanted to and a lot of people do. The 5.7L was one of the factory options on the H1s at one point. There are also trucks running 8.1Ls and 9.4Ls.

    The H1 Alphas came with Duramax diesels so those are an option as is a Cummins. I think we've got a member or two on here that has also done a Cummins swap on their HMMWV I saw in another thread once. Also just got some pics from a milsurp guy in KY I have and am getting some of my stuff for my truck from, of a Cummins powered truck belonging to one of his customers.










    Originally Posted By BillofRights:
    Is there any way to get these titled for road use?
    View Quote
    That's the big question and I think the answer is, "It depends on your state."

    Apparently according to jake-cutter above and what I've seen online, Texas is no problem.

    I'm going to be testing the waters here in Ohio but based on what I've learned I think I should be good to go.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 4:54:13 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    This username and post do not compute.



    Honestly, I'm a bit surprised with a name like that you weren't one of the first buyers!

    Frankly, this is a great opportunity to jump in if you have the opportunity. The first trucks were rediculously expensive. They've finally started getting very reasonable. I suspect as they get down to the final trucks, if there is no forthcoming word of new trucks for sale, prices will start getting stupid again.
    View Quote View All Quotes
    View All Quotes
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
    Originally Posted By 86HMMWV:
    I read it completely. Thanks for this post. I literally just found GovPlanet a week or so ago, and I've told myself that this will be there year that I try to buy a M998.

    This username and post do not compute.



    Honestly, I'm a bit surprised with a name like that you weren't one of the first buyers!

    Frankly, this is a great opportunity to jump in if you have the opportunity. The first trucks were rediculously expensive. They've finally started getting very reasonable. I suspect as they get down to the final trucks, if there is no forthcoming word of new trucks for sale, prices will start getting stupid again.

    No, just my username. The AM General Hummer has always been my favorite vehicle, hence that name. I hope they release more, because this is the year that I will start setting money back for one.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 5:01:54 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/25/2016 5:03:47 PM EST by jake-cutter]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    A question since you've got yours already.

    I know these trucks can deal with a lot of water inside (more if they have a deep fording kit of course) but do you think there would any problem scrubbing the interior with soap and a brush and then hosing it out, namely the dashboard areas with all of the switches?

    From the pics, mine looks to be quite dirty inside and it seems like cleaning it out like that would be the fastest way.
    View Quote View All Quotes
    View All Quotes
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    A question since you've got yours already.

    I know these trucks can deal with a lot of water inside (more if they have a deep fording kit of course) but do you think there would any problem scrubbing the interior with soap and a brush and then hosing it out, namely the dashboard areas with all of the switches?

    From the pics, mine looks to be quite dirty inside and it seems like cleaning it out like that would be the fastest way.


    I have pressure washed mine and scrubbed it with soap and degreaser multiple time, still needs to be done again before I paint. If you have the floor mats installed, remove them and you will find a lot more dirt. I sprayed/washed/scrubbed everything except the area right behind the steering wheel where the control box is. There are probably drain holes (pick axe holes) in the front floor that were added by the troops to help it drain faster during washing. Also be prepared to flush the "A" Pillar as there was a lot of sun flower seeds and dirt in mine.

    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    Very interesting to hear about being able to get a clear title straight off. They didn't ask any questions about equipment on the truck or the stamp on the form?


    It was actually very easy. Once she found AM General in her drop down menu, it was just entering the info. They basically copied all the info from the SF97. I did have to explain why the SF97 was not inmy name, but there is a notorized letter from Gov Planet that comes with it she just had to read it a few times to understand it. I was expecting an issue and had gone through the law and printed it out, but there was no problem. She even laughed at the "Off Road Only" stamp that is applied by Gov Planet. Again this may be a Texas thing.

    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    -Ibis Tek front and rear light bar (remember there are no backup lights so you will want to add some light tot he rear when going in reverse).
    Thought about going with those but decided I want LED instead of HIDs. Picking up a curved LED lightbar for the front. On the back for reverse lights I'm going to replace the antenna mounts that were originally on it and mount some smaller square LED lights under them. Wanted to pick up some IR LEDs for the front since I've got NV but everyone wanted an arm and leg and, since I wasn't interested in the HID Ibis Tek bars that had them, ended up just picking up a pair of these from Sportsman's Guide after I had seen a thread on here in the NV forum. Not bad for $20 each shipped.



    I am planning on adding a back up camera on the rear antenna mounts using the offset GPS mounts that go on the antenna mounts. Might also add a light on one.

    I am looking at backup cameras and a touch screen tablet as a radio/nav. Link

    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    -Airlift bumper for rear (you will want to look at a better bumper for the rear as the original one does not offer any protection)
    Working on this now. I can't believe how expensive the brackets are. You don't know if there's anyone out there selling a complete package do you? Eventually putting a tire carrier and jerry can carrier on it.



    Check with 86humv on g503 or steel soldiers. I got a complete one from him. There are two styles and some of the brackets may not work with both. Also you have the pioneer rack on your current bumper and you can use it on the airlift, you just need to buy two $5 brackets. Infact for any part you need check with him first. He ships Fastenal which is very reasonable for large items.

    Airlift Bumper A0

    Airlift Bumper A2

    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    -Special Forces tool box for bed.
    This sounds quite interesting. Any pics and information on this? Was wanting to add some locking storage to the truck.



    SF Gear box (long sold out) There is one on Ebay, but you will be looking at around $550 shipped. It does fit perfectly.

    Pics of the M6 Pedestal mount and tool box in bed of 4 man HMMWV



    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 5:14:23 PM EST
    Bad ass.

    My wife is getting a nervous twitch as I read this thread.

    Must... Resist... Temptation...
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 5:24:35 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By JSharp:

    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...
    View Quote


    Like Ryan said, there's nothing special about the diesel, even in naturally aspirated form it is a good light truck engine. They have their quirks and known problem areas, some maintenance procedures are a lot more difficult than they need to be due to the design of the engine, but for the most part if you put clean fuel in it and change fluids & filters on schedule you won't have any major problems. I personally wouldn't swap anything but a Cummins 4BT into it, it's short enough to fit with no problems and will easily make the same power as the 6.2l.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 5:44:41 PM EST
    Will a 6BT fit in a HMMWV, or only a 4BT like in the pictures?

    Definitely interested in one of these.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 6:09:13 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By pevrs114:
    Will a 6BT fit in a HMMWV, or only a 4BT like in the pictures?

    Definitely interested in one of these.
    View Quote

    That's a 6BT in those pictures.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 6:56:53 PM EST
    If your state laws allow it to be registered for on road use, and one were to swap in a LS7 drivetrain, that would make one hell of a fun ride.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 9:22:07 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/25/2016 9:23:11 PM EST by JSharp]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By ME2112:


    Like Ryan said, there's nothing special about the diesel, even in naturally aspirated form it is a good light truck engine. They have their quirks and known problem areas, some maintenance procedures are a lot more difficult than they need to be due to the design of the engine, but for the most part if you put clean fuel in it and change fluids & filters on schedule you won't have any major problems. I personally wouldn't swap anything but a Cummins 4BT into it, it's short enough to fit with no problems and will easily make the same power as the 6.2l.
    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:

    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...


    Like Ryan said, there's nothing special about the diesel, even in naturally aspirated form it is a good light truck engine. They have their quirks and known problem areas, some maintenance procedures are a lot more difficult than they need to be due to the design of the engine, but for the most part if you put clean fuel in it and change fluids & filters on schedule you won't have any major problems. I personally wouldn't swap anything but a Cummins 4BT into it, it's short enough to fit with no problems and will easily make the same power as the 6.2l.


    My son is a mechanic at the local Chevy dealer but he hasn't worked on the diesels much. I was thinking in terms of the cheapest way to get one running if we were to bid on one in non running condition. The risk there I suspect is that there wouldn't be a way for GovPlanet to know much about the rest of the driveline if they couldn't get the engine running and actually drive it.
    Link Posted: 1/25/2016 10:27:52 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By JSharp:


    My son is a mechanic at the local Chevy dealer but he hasn't worked on the diesels much. I was thinking in terms of the cheapest way to get one running if we were to bid on one in non running condition. The risk there I suspect is that there wouldn't be a way for GovPlanet to know much about the rest of the driveline if they couldn't get the engine running and actually drive it.
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    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:

    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...


    Like Ryan said, there's nothing special about the diesel, even in naturally aspirated form it is a good light truck engine. They have their quirks and known problem areas, some maintenance procedures are a lot more difficult than they need to be due to the design of the engine, but for the most part if you put clean fuel in it and change fluids & filters on schedule you won't have any major problems. I personally wouldn't swap anything but a Cummins 4BT into it, it's short enough to fit with no problems and will easily make the same power as the 6.2l.


    My son is a mechanic at the local Chevy dealer but he hasn't worked on the diesels much. I was thinking in terms of the cheapest way to get one running if we were to bid on one in non running condition. The risk there I suspect is that there wouldn't be a way for GovPlanet to know much about the rest of the driveline if they couldn't get the engine running and actually drive it.

    Well, if you're going to have to go to the trouble of replacing the engine, even though it is more work, it might be a good idea to replace the transmission too. The one it comes with is only a 3 speed TH400.

    If you're going with a SBC, you can replace the TH400 with a 4L80E with either factory controllers or a standalone harness and controller setup. Then you'll get better fuel efficiency and better speeds. It can be done.

    I've decided if my engine ever needs replaced for whatever reason I'll either go with a later model HMMWV 6.5L turbo setup (probably easier to pull off) or a Duramax with Allison trans (more power, more efficient but more work). Leaning toward the Duramax. Thought about the Cummins but they naturally command a premium and I'm figuring an engine choice that was offered from the factory will be a lot easier to install.


    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 2:59:48 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    Well, if you're going to have to go to the trouble of replacing the engine, even though it is more work, it might be a good idea to replace the transmission too. The one it comes with is only a 3 speed TH400.

    If you're going with a SBC, you can replace the TH400 with a 4L80E with either factory controllers or a standalone harness and controller setup. Then you'll get better fuel efficiency and better speeds. It can be done.

    I've decided if my engine ever needs replaced for whatever reason I'll either go with a later model HMMWV 6.5L turbo setup (probably easier to pull off) or a Duramax with Allison trans (more power, more efficient but more work). Leaning toward the Duramax. Thought about the Cummins but they naturally command a premium and I'm figuring an engine choice that was offered from the factory will be a lot easier to install.

    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:

    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...


    Like Ryan said, there's nothing special about the diesel, even in naturally aspirated form it is a good light truck engine. They have their quirks and known problem areas, some maintenance procedures are a lot more difficult than they need to be due to the design of the engine, but for the most part if you put clean fuel in it and change fluids & filters on schedule you won't have any major problems. I personally wouldn't swap anything but a Cummins 4BT into it, it's short enough to fit with no problems and will easily make the same power as the 6.2l.


    My son is a mechanic at the local Chevy dealer but he hasn't worked on the diesels much. I was thinking in terms of the cheapest way to get one running if we were to bid on one in non running condition. The risk there I suspect is that there wouldn't be a way for GovPlanet to know much about the rest of the driveline if they couldn't get the engine running and actually drive it.

    Well, if you're going to have to go to the trouble of replacing the engine, even though it is more work, it might be a good idea to replace the transmission too. The one it comes with is only a 3 speed TH400.

    If you're going with a SBC, you can replace the TH400 with a 4L80E with either factory controllers or a standalone harness and controller setup. Then you'll get better fuel efficiency and better speeds. It can be done.

    I've decided if my engine ever needs replaced for whatever reason I'll either go with a later model HMMWV 6.5L turbo setup (probably easier to pull off) or a Duramax with Allison trans (more power, more efficient but more work). Leaning toward the Duramax. Thought about the Cummins but they naturally command a premium and I'm figuring an engine choice that was offered from the factory will be a lot easier to install.



    We ( the kid ) has a couple of TH400's laying around here and no 4L80 stuff. So we'd probably leave the trans alone. I'm just trying to figure out if we could get one with a bad engine and have one running on the cheap. Having $10K in a toy isn't something we'd do. But if we could get in for 1/2 that +- using stuff we have around it's maybe manageable.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 3:22:25 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By 86HMMWV:

    That's a 6BT in those pictures.
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    Originally Posted By 86HMMWV:
    Originally Posted By pevrs114:
    Will a 6BT fit in a HMMWV, or only a 4BT like in the pictures?

    Definitely interested in one of these.

    That's a 6BT in those pictures.


    Where are the other two valve covers? Back in the dog box part of the engine bay?

    I just assumed 4BT b/c I only counted 4 valve covers. If there's that much room to plant a 6 cyl in there, that would make for a very, very, very sweet drivetrain. Esp there's already adapters out there for B series engines to TH400, and possibly to 4L80E.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 7:04:04 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By JSharp:


    We ( the kid ) has a couple of TH400's laying around here and no 4L80 stuff. So we'd probably leave the trans alone. I'm just trying to figure out if we could get one with a bad engine and have one running on the cheap. Having $10K in a toy isn't something we'd do. But if we could get in for 1/2 that +- using stuff we have around it's maybe manageable.
    View Quote


    Doubt you could come in that cheap. The non-running rolling ones start at 5k with most selling in the 7-8k range sometimes higher. A parts one missing the front suspension non running and ragged out started at 3k and ended at 5.7k. You still have to factor in fees and taxes on top of that.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 7:22:34 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/26/2016 7:26:50 PM EST by JohnyRotten]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    Well, if you're going to have to go to the trouble of replacing the engine, even though it is more work, it might be a good idea to replace the transmission too. The one it comes with is only a 3 speed TH400.

    If you're going with a SBC, you can replace the TH400 with a 4L80E with either factory controllers or a standalone harness and controller setup. Then you'll get better fuel efficiency and better speeds. It can be done.

    I've decided if my engine ever needs replaced for whatever reason I'll either go with a later model HMMWV 6.5L turbo setup (probably easier to pull off) or a Duramax with Allison trans (more power, more efficient but more work). Leaning toward the Duramax. Thought about the Cummins but they naturally command a premium and I'm figuring an engine choice that was offered from the factory will be a lot easier to install.


    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:

    How about just throw a small block in there to replace the diesel? What's the downside if you have a known good one? I have to believe it would be cheaper to keep running in the long term...


    Like Ryan said, there's nothing special about the diesel, even in naturally aspirated form it is a good light truck engine. They have their quirks and known problem areas, some maintenance procedures are a lot more difficult than they need to be due to the design of the engine, but for the most part if you put clean fuel in it and change fluids & filters on schedule you won't have any major problems. I personally wouldn't swap anything but a Cummins 4BT into it, it's short enough to fit with no problems and will easily make the same power as the 6.2l.


    My son is a mechanic at the local Chevy dealer but he hasn't worked on the diesels much. I was thinking in terms of the cheapest way to get one running if we were to bid on one in non running condition. The risk there I suspect is that there wouldn't be a way for GovPlanet to know much about the rest of the driveline if they couldn't get the engine running and actually drive it.

    Well, if you're going to have to go to the trouble of replacing the engine, even though it is more work, it might be a good idea to replace the transmission too. The one it comes with is only a 3 speed TH400.

    If you're going with a SBC, you can replace the TH400 with a 4L80E with either factory controllers or a standalone harness and controller setup. Then you'll get better fuel efficiency and better speeds. It can be done.

    I've decided if my engine ever needs replaced for whatever reason I'll either go with a later model HMMWV 6.5L turbo setup (probably easier to pull off) or a Duramax with Allison trans (more power, more efficient but more work). Leaning toward the Duramax. Thought about the Cummins but they naturally command a premium and I'm figuring an engine choice that was offered from the factory will be a lot easier to install.




    I liked your write up, I've been looking on IP for a while, I'm in no rush and only willing to drive a couple 100 miles to inspect, slant backs are rare at the moment and that's all I'm interested in..

    Here are a couple more sites for you to learn info if you don't know already
    hummernetwork.com
    AmGenerals.com
    predatorinc.com

    The Dmax will give you a challenge and cost $$
    Not only will you need a donor vehicle you'll need:
    2" body lift
    12k-12" brakes, rotors, anchor brkts, etc
    12k haft shafts
    radiator/intercooler
    detune the donor ecm
    and countless other parts

    BTW: you know what HMMVW stands for right?







    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 7:26:21 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:


    Doubt you could come in that cheap. The non-running rolling ones start at 5k with most selling in the 7-8k range sometimes higher. A parts one missing the front suspension non running and ragged out started at 3k and ended at 5.7k. You still have to factor in fees and taxes on top of that.
    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    We ( the kid ) has a couple of TH400's laying around here and no 4L80 stuff. So we'd probably leave the trans alone. I'm just trying to figure out if we could get one with a bad engine and have one running on the cheap. Having $10K in a toy isn't something we'd do. But if we could get in for 1/2 that +- using stuff we have around it's maybe manageable.


    Doubt you could come in that cheap. The non-running rolling ones start at 5k with most selling in the 7-8k range sometimes higher. A parts one missing the front suspension non running and ragged out started at 3k and ended at 5.7k. You still have to factor in fees and taxes on top of that.

    Yep. Unfortunately, this is what a $2,000 opening bid gets you.







    Not much more than a pile of spare parts.

    That said, this goes back to the thread I originally posted in that lead to this thread.

    Even with the price of my truck, the costs of picking it up, and all of the accessories I'm picking up for it (LED lighting, Ibis Tek front bumper and tire/jerry can carrier, new seats, etc.) I'm still coming out cheaper than the lightly used Wrangler with a couple inch lift and 33" tires my younger brother bought a couple years ago (and sold). He had, easily, $17,000+ into it. I'll have less than $15,000 tops into my HMMWV. The lynch pin that ultimately decides if this is worth it is if you can get it on the road legally in your state.

    Admittedly, I'm taking a big gamble with my purchase but I've always wanted one of these trucks and the opportunity presented itself.



    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 7:39:22 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By JohnyRotten:
    I liked your write up, I've been looking on IP for a while, I'm in no rush and only willing to drive a couple 100 miles to inspect, slant backs are rare at the moment and that's all I'm interested in..

    Here are a couple more sites for you to learn info if you don't know already
    hummernetwork.com
    AmGenerals.com
    predatorinc.com

    The Dmax will give you a challenge and cost $$
    Not only will you need a donor vehicle you'll need:
    2" body lift
    12k-12" brakes, rotors, anchor brkts, etc
    12k haft shafts
    radiator/intercooler
    detune the donor ecm
    and countless other parts

    BTW: you know what HMMVW stands for right?
    View Quote

    High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle!

    I've been in love with these trucks for the better part of 2 decades. Was a member on the Hummer Mailing List back in the early/mid '90s. Interest fell in them in the early 2000s as I realized I wouldn't be getting one any time soon and I got into full size Jeeps instead (Grand Wagoneers, Cherokees, J-trucks). I still love the FSJs but, it just wasn't the truck I was looking for.

    Now I can finally get the truck I really wanted!

    Yeah, the Dmax will be a bit more work but the payoff will be better than any of the standard HMMWV engines for sure though I'm certainly not ruling out a 6.5 turbo. Then again, this is something I'm only going to do if the 6.2 or possibly the transmission dies for some reason which I'm really hoping doesn't happen for quite some time.

    Regardless I will eventually upgrade the half shafts, brakes, etc. to the 12k anyway for durability reasons. The stock half shafts do break if you aren't careful wheeling! The 12k gear is a lot beefier.


    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 7:53:43 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/26/2016 7:55:06 PM EST by JohnyRotten]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle!



    View Quote View All Quotes
    View All Quotes
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
    Originally Posted By JohnyRotten:
    I liked your write up, I've been looking on IP for a while, I'm in no rush and only willing to drive a couple 100 miles to inspect, slant backs are rare at the moment and that's all I'm interested in..

    Here are a couple more sites for you to learn info if you don't know already
    hummernetwork.com
    AmGenerals.com
    predatorinc.com

    The Dmax will give you a challenge and cost $$
    Not only will you need a donor vehicle you'll need:
    2" body lift
    12k-12" brakes, rotors, anchor brkts, etc
    12k haft shafts
    radiator/intercooler
    detune the donor ecm
    and countless other parts

    BTW: you know what HMMVW stands for right?

    High Mobility Multipurpose Wheeled Vehicle!




    Nope...close..
    High Maintenance Money Wasting Vehicle

    Here's mine few more creacher comforts then a V

    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:00:34 PM EST
    Just know that posts like these are banned on most military vehicle forums because you are signing a document with the federal givernment saying you will not use the vehicle on the road. Therefore any attempt to circumvent that is illegal. Not saying I agree but many people feel this way.

    The reason these are so cheap is mainly because of that claise.

    Many states including mine also make it almost impossible to register these for the first time so look into that.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:00:58 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By JohnyRotten:
    Nope...close..
    High Maintenance Money Wasting Vehicle

    Here's mine few more creacher comforts then a V

    http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/JOHNGOE/H1_zpsgyeh0xf4.jpg
    View Quote


    Oh damn! You got me!

    That's a very good looking truck! I've always though the yellow Hummers with black accessories looked really sharp.

    Not gonna lie, A/C will be missed.


    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:12:23 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:


    Oh damn! You got me!

    That's a very good looking truck! I've always though the yellow Hummers with black accessories looked really sharp.

    Not gonna lie, A/C will be missed.


    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
    Originally Posted By JohnyRotten:
    Nope...close..
    High Maintenance Money Wasting Vehicle

    Here's mine few more creacher comforts then a V

    http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae238/JOHNGOE/H1_zpsgyeh0xf4.jpg


    Oh damn! You got me!

    That's a very good looking truck! I've always though the yellow Hummers with black accessories looked really sharp.

    Not gonna lie, A/C will be missed.




    2 words.....RED DOT.
    There goes more $$, there a F"in" money pit I tell you!!
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:23:39 PM EST
    ACT a/c is better than red dot.

    If the Diesel engine is removed and replaced with a gas, the trans will at least have to be gone through and valve body changed to a gas valve body. Shift points are different for gas/diesel engines.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:38:57 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    Yeah, the Dmax will be a bit more work but the payoff will be better than any of the standard HMMWV engines for sure though I'm certainly not ruling out a 6.5 turbo. Then again, this is something I'm only going to do if the 6.2 or possibly the transmission dies for some reason which I'm really hoping doesn't happen for quite some time.



    View Quote


    Look for an "Optimizer 6500" 6.5l, which is the Navistar-cast 6.5l block with reinforcements. Expensive, but much less than the Duramax and you can run it with a DB2 mechanical injector pump instead of the DS4 electronic pump. I had a '96 6.5l with DB2 that was built for 275HP & 500lb-ft in an '85 C1500, that thing would get up and move! I don't remember if the 6500 has the piston cooling jets or not; in the 506 block (97-up 6.5l) the bores for the nozzles were common cracking points.

    If you go the 6.5l turbo route, a set of 19:1 pistons (or welding & offset-drilling the small ends of the rods) will make a much happier engine. A little harder to start when cold due to the lower compression, though.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:52:12 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Dace:
    Just know that posts like these are banned on most military vehicle forums because you are signing a document with the federal givernment saying you will not use the vehicle on the road. Therefore any attempt to circumvent that is illegal. Not saying I agree but many people feel this way.

    The reason these are so cheap is mainly because of that claise.

    Many states including mine also make it almost impossible to register these for the first time so look into that.
    View Quote


    The hold harmless that you sign when purchasing states that at the time of retrieval that the HMMWV is not road worthy and only for off road use and that they (gov planet and the US Gov't) are not responsible for the Buyer's use of the HMMWV after retrieval from their premises. In fact the Government does not stamp "Off Road Use Only" on the title, it is done by Gov Planet which is questionable as the government states the SF97 is not to be altered. As with any vehicle that is titled for use on the road you have to meet certain safety requirements set by the Fed and state Governments and as long as you bring the vehicle up to those standards you should have no issue titling the vehicle if your state allows.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 8:54:05 PM EST
    Both really great posts!

    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jeep450:
    ACT a/c is better than red dot.
    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jeep450:
    ACT a/c is better than red dot.

    ACT = American Cooling Technology?

    That's what I came up with in a quick search.

    Do you have a link to a system that works in the HMMWV? All I was seeing was the Red Dot.


    Originally Posted By ME2112:
    Look for an "Optimizer 6500" 6.5l, which is the Navistar-cast 6.5l block with reinforcements. Expensive, but much less than the Duramax and you can run it with a DB2 mechanical injector pump instead of the DS4 electronic pump. I had a '96 6.5l with DB2 that was built for 275HP & 500lb-ft in an '85 C1500, that thing would get up and move! I don't remember if the 6500 has the piston cooling jets or not; in the 506 block (97-up 6.5l) the bores for the nozzles were common cracking points.

    If you go the 6.5l turbo route, a set of 19:1 pistons (or welding & offset-drilling the small ends of the rods) will make a much happier engine. A little harder to start when cold due to the lower compression, though.

    I will definitely look into this as a possibility!

    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 9:03:02 PM EST
    Tagarooski. I've always wanted one. Interesting to hear it may be possible to get it road legal in Ohio.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 9:06:43 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:

    Yep. Unfortunately, this is what a $2,000 opening bid gets you.

    http://i.imgur.com/UyXJo08.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/3zuid6N.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/uBE8zyZ.jpg

    Not much more than a pile of spare parts.

    That said, this goes back to the thread I originally posted in that lead to this thread.

    Even with the price of my truck, the costs of picking it up, and all of the accessories I'm picking up for it (LED lighting, Ibis Tek front bumper and tire/jerry can carrier, new seats, etc.) I'm still coming out cheaper than the lightly used Wrangler with a couple inch lift and 33" tires my younger brother bought a couple years ago (and sold). He had, easily, $17,000+ into it. I'll have less than $15,000 tops into my HMMWV. The lynch pin that ultimately decides if this is worth it is if you can get it on the road legally in your state.

    Admittedly, I'm taking a big gamble with my purchase but I've always wanted one of these trucks and the opportunity presented itself.


    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    We ( the kid ) has a couple of TH400's laying around here and no 4L80 stuff. So we'd probably leave the trans alone. I'm just trying to figure out if we could get one with a bad engine and have one running on the cheap. Having $10K in a toy isn't something we'd do. But if we could get in for 1/2 that +- using stuff we have around it's maybe manageable.


    Doubt you could come in that cheap. The non-running rolling ones start at 5k with most selling in the 7-8k range sometimes higher. A parts one missing the front suspension non running and ragged out started at 3k and ended at 5.7k. You still have to factor in fees and taxes on top of that.

    Yep. Unfortunately, this is what a $2,000 opening bid gets you.

    http://i.imgur.com/UyXJo08.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/3zuid6N.jpg

    http://i.imgur.com/uBE8zyZ.jpg

    Not much more than a pile of spare parts.

    That said, this goes back to the thread I originally posted in that lead to this thread.

    Even with the price of my truck, the costs of picking it up, and all of the accessories I'm picking up for it (LED lighting, Ibis Tek front bumper and tire/jerry can carrier, new seats, etc.) I'm still coming out cheaper than the lightly used Wrangler with a couple inch lift and 33" tires my younger brother bought a couple years ago (and sold). He had, easily, $17,000+ into it. I'll have less than $15,000 tops into my HMMWV. The lynch pin that ultimately decides if this is worth it is if you can get it on the road legally in your state.

    Admittedly, I'm taking a big gamble with my purchase but I've always wanted one of these trucks and the opportunity presented itself.




    Doesn't look like there's a cheap way which maybe makes it out of our price range for a toy. All the auction and closing fees I didn't really add into the price I threw out since they're not much different than buying anything at auction. It's just part of buying that way and acceptable to me that they're over and above costs.

    I'm with you on your choice for sure. One good running HMMWV would be worth more to me than any number Jeeps. Short of an old CJ2 or 3 found in a barn and that could be bought for a few thousand I have zero interest on one. If I wanted a $15K-$20K street vehicle that had been modded for more off road use it would have a Toyota badge on it...
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 10:03:27 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jeep450:
    ACT a/c is better than red dot.
    View Quote


    This is a general statement and opinion. I didn't know red dot had a kit for these trucks.
    Link Posted: 1/26/2016 11:06:37 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 1/26/2016 11:08:38 PM EST by Dace]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:


    The hold harmless that you sign when purchasing states that at the time of retrieval that the HMMWV is not road worthy and only for off road use and that they (gov planet and the US Gov't) are not responsible for the Buyer's use of the HMMWV after retrieval from their premises. In fact the Government does not stamp "Off Road Use Only" on the title, it is done by Gov Planet which is questionable as the government states the SF97 is not to be altered. As with any vehicle that is titled for use on the road you have to meet certain safety requirements set by the Fed and state Governments and as long as you bring the vehicle up to those standards you should have no issue titling the vehicle if your state allows.
    View Quote View All Quotes
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    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
    Originally Posted By Dace:
    Just know that posts like these are banned on most military vehicle forums because you are signing a document with the federal givernment saying you will not use the vehicle on the road. Therefore any attempt to circumvent that is illegal. Not saying I agree but many people feel this way.

    The reason these are so cheap is mainly because of that claise.

    Many states including mine also make it almost impossible to register these for the first time so look into that.


    The hold harmless that you sign when purchasing states that at the time of retrieval that the HMMWV is not road worthy and only for off road use and that they (gov planet and the US Gov't) are not responsible for the Buyer's use of the HMMWV after retrieval from their premises. In fact the Government does not stamp "Off Road Use Only" on the title, it is done by Gov Planet which is questionable as the government states the SF97 is not to be altered. As with any vehicle that is titled for use on the road you have to meet certain safety requirements set by the Fed and state Governments and as long as you bring the vehicle up to those standards you should have no issue titling the vehicle if your state allows.


    Hi, it is a requirement from the DOD through the DLA and more then just a "be careful you cant drive these on the road".

    http://www.dispositionservices.dla.mil/sales/Documents/Sales/FAQ.pdf

    I just want people to think hard about what they are doing without actually researching this issue.

    http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?138670-HMMWV-Titling


    Link Posted: 1/27/2016 9:03:32 AM EST
    I got mine titled no issues. When I called for my sf97 the guy blatantly said it was fine to get a normal title but that is up to your state to decide. Here in Indiana the DMV lady and run around helper guy both got a chuckle from the red OFF ROAD ONLY stamp at the top.

    I got my 2 door with a winning bid of $5250. Description stating vehicle cranks but won't start. Long story short, I got it to run but the motor was shot.

    So currently I am doing a Cummins swap with a 47rh trans and 241hd t case. Already swapped on 4 X doors. And am installing a slantback top.
    Link Posted: 1/28/2016 12:20:32 AM EST
    I'm tempted to buy a non running unit and swap in an 8.1/4l80E. Should be pretty straight forward I think.
    Link Posted: 1/28/2016 7:52:06 PM EST
    Is there a conversion that will add Duramax to an Allison 1000 series tranny for these?

    I heard rumors.

    Danny
    Link Posted: 1/29/2016 12:31:16 AM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By Minuteman419:
    Is there a conversion that will add Duramax to an Allison 1000 series tranny for these?

    I heard rumors.

    Danny
    View Quote

    There are packages made by Predator, H-Line, and others if you search around.

    The problem is they are all $$$$

    But that H-Line conversion looks badass!



    If you have the mechanical aptitude and space to do the work you could quite likely pull the major components from scrap yards, source the factory H1 Alpha Duramax parts and/or find a shop to help fab up the custom parts you need if you can't do it yourself, and get a standalone harness for much less than what the conversions cost. Just means a lot of sweat equity.


    Link Posted: 2/3/2016 1:41:56 PM EST
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By JSharp:
    Doesn't look like there's a cheap way which maybe makes it out of our price range for a toy. All the auction and closing fees I didn't really add into the price I threw out since they're not much different than buying anything at auction. It's just part of buying that way and acceptable to me that they're over and above costs.

    I'm with you on your choice for sure. One good running HMMWV would be worth more to me than any number Jeeps. Short of an old CJ2 or 3 found in a barn and that could be bought for a few thousand I have zero interest on one. If I wanted a $15K-$20K street vehicle that had been modded for more off road use it would have a Toyota badge on it...
    View Quote

    Just a heads up, was looking through the results for the auctions from today and there are definitely some deals to be had on the 2 door trucks. Non-running ones were selling for $5k opening or 1-2 bids over opening with typically less than 10 bids, some just 5 or fewer. Running ones were going for a bit more but a lot were around $7k or under.



    Link Posted: 2/3/2016 7:00:39 PM EST
    None for sale in Texas or New Mexico and it looks like the auctions dont end until February 17. How often do they post new vehicles? Is it safe to say you can get a running vehicle in decent shape for $13,000ish?
    Link Posted: 2/3/2016 9:24:36 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 2/3/2016 9:26:51 PM EST by Ryan_Ruck]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
    None for sale in Texas or New Mexico and it looks like the auctions dont end until February 17. How often do they post new vehicles? Is it safe to say you can get a running vehicle in decent shape for $13,000ish?
    View Quote

    Auctions are on Wednesdays and vehicles are usually added 2 weeks in advance of the auction. So far they've sold 269 in Texas (and just a handful in NM with none recent) so just check regularly for added trucks.

    You could most certainly get a really clean truck for $13k, vehicle only price or even total invoiced purchase cost.

    As I mentioned, mine was $9,500 vehicle only price, $11,233 total invoiced cost and the only things that are listed as wrong with it are a broken mirror, a flat tire (probably from sitting), and the exterior lights aren't working. According to GovPlanet it starts and runs with no problems, has no leaks, no disconnected drive train parts, no missing parts, and no serious rust or body damage. Just a lot of dust all over the inside. I've already got replacement mirrors and I'll air up the flat to see if it holds air. As for the lighting, I work with electronics daily so hunting down the electrical gremlin and fixing it is in my wheelhouse. I'm also converting the external lighting to LED and the light controller to the new push button model so it was going to get some attention anyway. Been doing some research on the electrical systems and found grounding can be an issue with these trucks so I'll be adding some recommended supplemental grounding. I'm sure either the new light switch and lights and/or the additional grounding will solve the problem.

    The EUC wait is just killing me though and I haven't even officially started the real wait time for it. It starts once the EUC status shows "Processing" which means GovPlanet has sent it into the TSC. I'm still at "EUC Form Printed" which means it has yet to even be processed by GovPlanet and sent off.


    Link Posted: 2/3/2016 9:48:25 PM EST
    [Last Edit: 2/3/2016 10:14:34 PM EST by jake-cutter]
    Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
    Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR:
    None for sale in Texas or New Mexico and it looks like the auctions dont end until February 17. How often do they post new vehicles? Is it safe to say you can get a running vehicle in decent shape for $13,000ish?
    View Quote


    You will diffently be able to get one for under $13k driveout in Texas or New Mexico. I paid under $12k delivered for mine. The ones in Texas do seem to go for a little more but being closer offset the delivery cost of one out of state. The only big issue with mine were some dents in the bed and really bad flaking paint in the bed. This was not easily seen in the pics. Other wise mine is in good condition and when it warms up some I will fix the paint issue in the bed and then have a spray in bedliner applied to the whole interior.

    Paint issues seem to be common as these have been painted multiple times and the layers begin to crack and flake. This doesn't show up well in the pics. Plus there are run marks and drip marks and other imperfections from lack of prep/cleaning before painting. Mine was originally green, then woodland, then desert storm tan, then back to green, and then tan again. This is all from peeling the layers off at the rear were the unit markings are.
    Link Posted: 2/3/2016 11:13:33 PM EST
    Do they require a wire for payment or will a credit card work?
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