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Posted: 8/17/2009 7:21:49 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/18/2009 10:38:23 AM EST by oranjooose]
'85 bronco Xlt that has a rebuilt 351 winsor with approximately 6,000 miles, great condition c6 tranny, ac works and is ice cold. 4wd works hi and low. New MSD racing distributor cap and rotor, new motorcraft spark plugs, new battery, new starter, new radiator, just got the oil changed, and got a K and N oil filter put on it, has a Eldelbrock chrome air cleaner and filter, and new valve cover gaskets. Some of the body work has been started. Good solid truck and drives like a beauty. And the top is removable. $1300. All it needs is maybe a little more body work and some paint. So, should I?







Link Posted: 8/17/2009 7:25:41 PM EST
$1,300?????

Absolutely!!!! Bondo and paint are cheap. Just camo the thing and you'll have the new BOV!

Cool Deal!
Link Posted: 8/17/2009 7:46:51 PM EST
Hell Yes
Link Posted: 8/17/2009 7:49:58 PM EST
Oh hell yeah!
Link Posted: 8/17/2009 8:12:55 PM EST
Why the hell not. I was like -Meh- until I saw:

And the top is removable.


Then I was like, Hell Yeah! That thing will always be worth atleast $1300.
Link Posted: 8/17/2009 8:17:23 PM EST
Damn. Look at all those hoses...
Link Posted: 8/18/2009 2:56:30 AM EST
I would buy it.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 8/18/2009 9:15:52 PM EST
I got some more pics today and i was wondering how big i could go on tires. I dont want to get it lifted and want to keep gears and stuff stock. What do you guys think? 33" BFGs?



Link Posted: 8/18/2009 11:59:13 PM EST
If you don't intend to regear I would go no larger than 31" tires. If you go 33's on Ford's already too high gearing this rig will become cataclysmicly slow and will drink fuel at rates best measured in gallons per hour

Back when I was young and didn't know any better I would do otherwize but now I consider regearing to be MANDATORY for large tires and in some cases even with stock tires as was the case with frigging 3.08's in my Jeep YJ
Link Posted: 8/19/2009 7:38:10 AM EST
Originally Posted By oranjooose:
I got some more pics today and i was wondering how big i could go on tires. I dont want to get it lifted and want to keep gears and stuff stock. What do you guys think? 33" BFGs?

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/oranjooose1/securedownload12.jpg

http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu205/oranjooose1/securedownload13.jpg


When I had my '89 w/ 300 & 5-speed, I was running 33x12.5-15's with the 3.08 gears. Plowing snow in low range, it was perfect. Didn't see a whole lot of 5th gear, except on the highway, though.
Link Posted: 8/19/2009 7:43:09 AM EST
If you don't want it, I'll take it...where are you?
Link Posted: 8/19/2009 8:22:27 AM EST
Originally Posted By Krochus:
If you don't intend to regear I would go no larger than 31" tires. If you go 33's on Ford's already too high gearing this rig will become cataclysmicly slow and will drink fuel at rates best measured in gallons per hour

Back when I was young and didn't know any better I would do otherwize but now I consider regearing to be MANDATORY for large tires and in some cases even with stock tires as was the case with frigging 3.08's in my Jeep YJ


Looks like i might have to lift it a little and regear. No prob. It should be a fun lil project. Any suggestions on lift sizes/types for around 33" tires meant mainly for all around use and snow?
Link Posted: 8/19/2009 11:50:49 AM EST
Hell yeah.
Link Posted: 8/19/2009 8:33:10 PM EST
Somebody spends all that money on the rig and then turns around and sells if for $1300? Something is wrong and you just haven't found it yet.

Brian
Link Posted: 8/19/2009 11:36:21 PM EST
Originally Posted By brian4wd:
Somebody spends all that money on the rig and then turns around and sells if for $1300? Something is wrong and you just haven't found it yet.

Brian


Well in all fairness there's only so much that can be wrong with any 80's Fullsized truck or SUV and not be blatantly obvious. Just from the pics I am however doubtful the engine has been out of this rig in less than a decade.

Drive the thing, make sure you go far enough to get up to temp and most importantly of all look at, sniff, feel and even taste all the appropriate fluids.

Look for white milkiness in the oil, this is a giveaway of potential serious problems

Sniff The trans fluid, it may look dark and old THAT'S FINE but it should never smell burnt

View and if need be taste the coolant (don't drink the shit) if it's straight water in warm weather there's prolly a reason for it. IE it gets rid of coolant too fast to bother with $15 per gallon antifreeze.

look for grease rags and or fluid containers stored in the vehicle as though they're needed often. A oil or ATF quart underneath the hood is a dead giveaway
Link Posted: 8/20/2009 5:59:55 AM EST
Check out the War Wagon (same Bronco you're looking at) on Red Stick Firearms website. Probably the coolest conversion I've ever seen, and I'm 60 years old.
Link Posted: 8/29/2009 5:26:44 PM EST
if you do get it, check out fullsizebronco.com
bronco's are addictive, i'm on my second one.
Link Posted: 8/29/2009 6:32:13 PM EST
That engine could have been pulled and just thrown back in with the majority of the parts uncleaned. It would look like it was never out. That engine bay needs a ton of wiring and hose cleanup though, that kinda stuff bothers me.

$1,300 isn't bad at all overall if the truck is basically solid. Check compression and fluids like has been mentioned previously. Make sure to put some miles on it and feel for any weird suspension wobbles, though the TTB is very solid overall, worn parts can do weird things.

If your looking for tires, 32x11.5R15's are a great size for stock broncos. Bigger than the stock sizes but don't look kinda funny like how some 33's can look on a unlifted rig. And you won't completely kill your mileage either, but don't expect much better than 10mpg in town and maybe 13-14 on the highway with the old carbed 3spd trucks

And Fullsizebronco.com is the place to go
Link Posted: 9/18/2009 10:37:05 AM EST
So...i went down to Texas and picked up my new truck. Got it for $1100. Pretty good shape too. Drove it about 200 miles to Oklahoma without any problems.

PICS!!!








Y-pipe is broken


Oh...whats this?


Bassani Y


BBK Shorties


CarSound/Magnaflow 3" HiFlow Cat


Hooker MaxFlow 3" muffler




mandrel bent 3" tailpipe




Found these on CL for $75


Some decent tread too



Im really excited about this truck and i will update this thread as it progresses.
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 6:49:32 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/19/2009 7:00:24 AM EST by ME2112]
Originally Posted By Krochus: frigging 3.08's in my Jeep YJ


My 83 CJ7 had 2.72s.

To the OP, you'll probably be able to fit 33s and get full compression without stuffing them into the fenders on a 2" lift. I'd avoid the temptation of a body lift, those things always end up costing more than you expect and you don't get a better suspension out of them. Also avoid getting a lift with new front springs and rear blocks - if you're not going to replace the springs there's no sense in lifting. Blocks are for poseurs who want to run big tires on the street.
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 6:57:44 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/19/2009 7:02:04 AM EST by N2CH_556]
Congrats. I miss my 85 Bronco.

Good luck with it, thought. Please mount the BFG AT's with white letters in. The truck will look much cleaner.

ETA: Looks badass. Have fun.
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 7:05:08 AM EST
You did good!
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 8:49:46 AM EST
Originally Posted By N2CH_556:
Please mount the BFG AT's with white letters in.


But then you see the white letters facing inward underneath the truck. Hope to score some nice blackwalls some day though.
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 9:55:50 AM EST
You did good.

I would go thru the truck

1) change all fluids (motor, tranny, transfer case, diffs and check brake fluid (not too brown)

2) Change all filters (oil, air and tranny)

3) If you plan to off road it, run the diff, tranny and trans vent lines up high in the engine bay

4) check brake lines and frame cracks (esp. near the steering box K5s are known for this, not sure about Broncos)

5) Take care of any rust immediately, even if you just sand it and hit it with primer.


That should be good to go

35s are probably going to rub up front, will probably hit the back of the wheel well, you can either BFH it or sawzall some sheet metal. I would use BFH and move metal.

Nice truck, get a build thread going and keep us updated.
Link Posted: 9/19/2009 11:14:08 AM EST
Originally Posted By die-tryin:
You did good.

I would go thru the truck

1) change all fluids (motor, tranny, transfer case, diffs and check brake fluid (not too brown)



Brake fluid is cheap, I'd recommend just flushing the system. It should be done periodically anyway (every 2 or 3 years at least) because brake fluid is hygroscopic.
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