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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/21/2001 6:10:46 AM EST
Should I caulk around the hole for the golden rod in my safe? If so is there some kind of fire resistant caulking? Thanks
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 9:30:56 AM EST
I would say no but would like to hear a more experienced opinion. Why no is because a "GOLDEN ROD" (if that is what you are using) is designed more for air circulation then to "dry" the air. The warm rod keeps the air moving so condensation doesn't collect on your rifles. I am not an expert but this is what I have been told. Experts?
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 9:51:06 AM EST
I can't speak for all safes, but I doubt very many have an air tight seal around the door so caulking the hole wouldn't do much good. Unless you have it in the basement or garage (or some other non-climate controlled area), I wouldn't be too concerned. Eddie
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 10:24:02 AM EST
I don't know anything about whether you should or shouldn't caulk the hole, but if you should, you can buy fire proof caulking that will last two or more hours at any plumbing or electrical supply, or at Home Depot type stores.
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 11:26:09 AM EST
I'd just leave it. I would think that the hole may help air circulate.
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 11:28:07 AM EST
No, it doesn't matter. It might slow the exposed metal from rusting (or, maybe it'll "just plain make you feel better"). If I could ever get at mine again I might put a rubber grommet or a spark plug boot in there. That is [u]if[/u] you're talking about a ~ ½" or ¾" hole. And if you are - it means you cut, & spliced the cord. I did too, so I soldered the wires (not for reliability - it's just to remove the chance sparks. I've got a couple GoldenRods in mine, & the bottom one DOES get knocked around, & tugged sometimes).
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 4:26:18 PM EST
[size=1][red]NO[/red][/size=1] The hole for the powercord is at the back and bottom of the safe for several reasons. First, the fire-resistant safes have heat-expanding tape around the door, to seal up the safe when there is a fire. Second, air expands when it is heated. Third, heat rises. Fourth, if you plug that hole, expanding air (see #2) from inside the safe won't be able to flow out at the bottom, where things are cool (see #3), thereby building up pressure inside the safe and causing the seal (see #1) to blow out wherever-the-hell-it-feels-like-it. Which is NOT what you want, since if it blows at the top, hot air, not to mention water from the firefighting, can get in. So, don't plug the damn hole up. Think about it. If they'd wanted you to plug up the hole, they would have told you to do it in the instruction manual, right?
Link Posted: 7/21/2001 9:33:23 PM EST
[Last Edit: 7/21/2001 9:33:20 PM EST by WSmac]
I just brought home a new Browning safe yesterday and looking at the book, this is what I found. The only mention of goldenrods states to use them if your daily humidity is above %20 relative humidity. Nothing about the hole for the cord. It also states that when you drill holes for anchoring, to "...fill the openings in the fire-resistant material with high temperature silicone caulking. The caulking will seal the opening and prevent hot gases from entering the safe during a fire.". These are 2" holes in the sheetrock, smaller bolt-sized holes in the case. Still, no mention about the hole already in the safe, although mine has a plastic plug in it. The book also states that the door should not fit snug because of the heat sensitive seal that was mentioned in the other posts. I agree, leave it alone. You could always call the safe company if you still were undecided. WSmac
Link Posted: 7/22/2001 8:19:22 AM EST
I have a National security and the hole is on top. I mounted the dehumodifier on the bottom. Hot air rises pushes cold air up and out the hole on top. I have had it 9 years and no rust.
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