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Originally Posted By uglygun: Popping pilot bearings from crank shafts with the "breading" trick. Have done it twice and it works like a champ. Last time I did it I managed to use only one slice of bread and was out in 5 minutes. Fuck using a a puller. Giggle like a school girl wvery time it works. View Quote I’ve done that but with grease instead of bread. Might have to try with bread next time. Less splat on the last hit I’m sure. |
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Neighbor has glass packs and revs at zero dark thirty? Fill them with maximum expanding fire block foam at zero dark thirty minus 60.
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Soldier for Life
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![]() Bud Light Present- Real Men of Genius Commercials |
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Originally Posted By Stutzmech: New stuffs not as bad, they don't give you much to adjust or fix, just buy a replacement part and put it on, don't have to know much mechanically View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stutzmech: Originally Posted By midcap: lmao....my uncle daddy said she's running to lean I gotta adjust them jets bro! New stuffs not as bad, they don't give you much to adjust or fix, just buy a replacement part and put it on, don't have to know much mechanically Yeah that's how outboards are now too, most of them are car engines architecture. some are forced induction but more are OHC/DOHC EFI engines. The two engines I have are 200HP 2.7 liter 4 cylinders. with VVT |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Stop vapor lock by putting wooden clothes pin on line near carb.
Acts like a heat sink. Adjusting points without feeler gauge. Pull tabs or matchbook covers were about .015 |
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When working on old stuff, adjust one thing at a time, if it makes no change put it back to orig. setting and move on to next thing, also the old maxim on very old cars is "it's always the ign. system dummy", don't mess with carb until ign system/timing is verified
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Originally Posted By uglygun: Popping pilot bearings from crank shafts with the "breading" trick. Have done it twice and it works like a champ. Last time I did it I managed to use only one slice of bread and was out in 5 minutes. Fuck using a a puller. Giggle like a school girl wvery time it works. View Quote Grease works better than bread...Although I do own the proper puller which is still the easiest way to change them... |
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Originally Posted By dusty454: This doesnt work. Give it a quick spray of another color primer and sand it. The uneven spots will magically reveal themselves. Everyone who says they can "feel" high/low spots is revealed to be a liar the moment that gloss black or midnight blue paint goes on. Waves all down the side of the car. Speaking of... if you're an amatuer - go with a light color paint. White is a good choice. Hides all the shoddy body work. View Quote Just as an aside on painting cars..when you think you have it prepped ready for paint, go back and do it all over again..most paint jobs need a lot more prep before the paint is sprayed..when you think you have it all ready to paint, hit it again with a light layer of primer and block it out again..checking often with the panel wet for high/low spots... |
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Strength Determination Merciless Forever
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Bowl shaped lifters make more power
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Originally Posted By SystemFailCoreDump: Do you have an electric fuel pump gone bad and it's in your fuel tank? Can't get to that fuel pump without dropping the fuel tank? Not anywhere near your garage and all your tools and you need to get this bitch to start and roll down the road or at least get it onto a trailer so you can tow the bitch? Here's your solution ... You will need a refrigerant flush bottle, a fuel injection pressure testing kit and hoses (that comes with a pressure gauge), some fuel and a portable air compressor. You can pretty easily fashion a pressurized miniature fuel tank that you can swap out your fuel tank fuel line for. A quart sized flush bottle will get you at least a couple of miles or get you on to a tow dolly/trailer. If you need go further just put more fuel in the bottle and repressurize. I'll go snap some pictures of the setup I keep in a bag in a bit when I get done doing my dipshit boss' job for him. FML, I hate this job. ![]() View Quote First try just smacking the bottom of the fuel tank with a broom handle..often it is enough to get an electric pump to work fine again...eventually it will do it again and no beating will free it up, but it's rare it won't work the first time a pump quits... |
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Originally Posted By Goodn: Use random shit from your vehicle to repair things... Think outside the box! I call it my own roadside assistance program... Or its Friday and I wanna get home work truck fix. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/183526/20200206_164324__1__jpg-2381365.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/183526/20200206_161848__1__jpg-2381363.JPG View Quote ![]() |
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Build or buy a "pressure pot" and pressure up the oil system on all engines with covers off to check oil flow past bearings when rebuilding an engine to check for flow and leaks, amazing what it will find before install
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When doing Drum Brakes,
Put a Clamp across the opposing shoes to hold them tight when removing or later re-installing the retracting springs. Doing them without that trick genuinely sucks... ![]() Bigger_Hammer ![]() |
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LIFE'S JOURNEY IS NOT TO ARRIVE AT THE GRAVE SAFELY IN A WELL PRESERVED BODY,
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN SIDEWAYS, TOTALLY WORN OUT SHOUTING "HOLY $H!T...WHAT A RIDE"!! |
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Always do one side of brakes at a time, use the other side as a guide to put every thing back in the right place and way
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Know basic troubleshooting steps, and use them, before you start throwing parts at a problem.
For example: I had an old 84 Mercury Marquis that had a chronic failure issue with the Ignition Control Module, which was mounted on the distributor stalk. It would overheat and die at random. It got to the point that I carried two spares in the trunk, along with the torx bit, extension, and ratchet to be able to swap it out on the side of the road. Whenever I was in town, I would swing by Autozone and swap out the burnt module for a new one, as it had a lifetime warranty. One day, the car died. I grabbed my spare ECM, swapped it out...and the car refused to start. At this point, I'm starting to panic. I calmed myself down and tried to think logically: what does my engine need to run? 1: Fuel 2: Air 3: Spark 4: Compression 5: Working electronics 1: verified that it was getting fuel 2: pulled the air cleaner off to make sure it was getting air 3: no spark No Spark!? Now, what could cause a no spark condition? 1: bad wires 2: Bad distributer cap/rotor 3: bad electronics 1: wires all looked good (didn't have a multimeter with me) 2: rotor came out in pieces. So, the metal contacts on the rotor came off inside the cap. Got a ride to the parts store from a Good Samaritan, and half hour later I was mobile again. |
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"You see? It's like I've always said; You can get more with a kind word and a two-by-four than you can with just a kind word." - Marcus Cole
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Originally Posted By Goodn: At least the engineers were kind enough at GM to make the pulley self removing when the bearing seizes. ![]() View Quote |
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"This all smells of democrats playing chess while republicans are playing coloring books"-fatcat4620
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Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: I don't wear gloves and wash my hands with I'm Fight me View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By jackthom8: ALWAYS wear fucking gloves! Don't listen to the dumbass boomers who think not wearing gloves is manly, cars are full of toxic chemical shit that will fuck up your skin! I don't wear gloves and wash my hands with I'm Fight me ![]() |
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Originally Posted By ARHank: If someone brings you a car that they've been working on and there's something they just can't figure out, make sure to ask what all they've done. Go back and check those repairs, in chronological order, first. It's usually something they ficked up. View Quote AvE paraphrase, "when troubleshooting something, disregard everything the first guy said, he couldn't fix it." |
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Zip ties on the driveshaft will make you friends go nuts.
Always have a good collection of 10mm sockets before starting any automotive project. When you jack the damn car up and go under it ALWAYS use a lot of cribbing in case it falls. 3,200 pounds on the chest is no fun. In fact it makes blood spew out your ears and eyes and puts you in a 5 day coma with last rites before you defy all odds and survive without taking a breath for 9 minutes...... 0 stars, would NOT recommend |
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"One does not hunt in order to kill, quite the contrary, One kills in order to have hunted"
I got sunshine in my stomach, like I just rocked my baby to sleep |
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Originally Posted By jb31: AvE paraphrase, "when troubleshooting something, disregard everything the first guy said, he couldn't fix it." View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By jb31: Originally Posted By ARHank: If someone brings you a car that they've been working on and there's something they just can't figure out, make sure to ask what all they've done. Go back and check those repairs, in chronological order, first. It's usually something they ficked up. AvE paraphrase, "when troubleshooting something, disregard everything the first guy said, he couldn't fix it." I went behind an "outboard tech" one time that couldn't get a Johnson 60 degree looper to run worth a shit, coughing at idle, couldn't get up on step all the time, would stall out when mashing the throttle. Homie, did all kind of shit to the engine, carbs, ignition stuff, timing, etc. He was convinced the lower seal was leaking. Well, what's the first thing I do? back out the idle jets to 6 turns...nearly every other engine is 1 1/2 to 2 turns out, not these. Once I did that, ran like a scalded dog. ![]() |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: I don't wear gloves and wash my hands with acetone. I'm 34. Fight me View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By jackthom8: ALWAYS wear fucking gloves! Don't listen to the dumbass boomers who think not wearing gloves is manly, cars are full of toxic chemical shit that will fuck up your skin! I don't wear gloves and wash my hands with acetone. I'm 34. Fight me You definitely aren’t doing that on a daily basis or your skin would be fucked up. |
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In tank fuel pump takes a shit, get the jack out of the trunk, turn the key on and hit the tank with the jack. most times you can make it home like that. the jolt will make it spin again.
older cars timming chain jumped move all the wires ahead one tower and ajust the timming. drove a 68 ford galaxy for a few thousand miles like that. small block chevy motors when the fuel pump shits the bed, in the front of the block there is a bolt 3/8 that you remove and install another longer bolt to hold the fuel pump rod in place while you change the fuel pump. using heavy grease to hold the rod "up" while you replace the fuel pump is another trick. need to save a buck, and your thirsty, use the iced tea carton as a thermostat gasket after you have the ice tea. glue the gasket of the water pump to the pump before you install the pump, that way it doesnt slide out of place. when bleeding brakes "cold cock" the bleeder screws first. cold cocking is where you tighten the nut or bleeder before you open the bleeder (just did this 2 hours ago.) when bleeding calipers remove the bleeder screw all the way out and just put your finger over the hole when the person lets the pedal go back up. saves time instead of dicking around with the bleeder. race stuck to the shaft, cut it with a wheel almost all the way through and hit it with a hammer, the cut gives it room to move and the pop right off. plumbing hack, broken nipple inside a fitting, make a sawall cut into the piple so it has room to contract, then use a easy out. if the pipe is only like 3/8 grind down the back of the sawsall blade so it will fit into the fitting. busted key in the ignition, use a old hack saw blade. grind down the end so it fits on top of the flat spot on the key and pull it out. even a worn out blade works good because the end of the blade never gets used. im old |
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With all the plastic parts being used in automotive cooling (and other) systems...the head snapped off the bleed screw on my Z's expansion tank, and the bleeder slot in the remaining thread body start pissing coolant. I used a hand torch to heat the straight blade of a screwdriver red hot, sank it into the thread body, let it cool and turned the remaining portion of the thread right out.
Use a skinny bladed screwdriver...if you hit the female threads on the component itself you're screwed (sorry). |
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"Cease quoting laws to us who have swords"
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Throw away your pickleforks. To release a tie rod end or ball joint, hit the side of the female part with a hammer.
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Originally Posted By ColinDoyle: Throw away your pickleforks. To release a tie rod end or ball joint, hit the side of the female part with a hammer. View Quote I’ll keep them, thanks. I’ve had less luck with the hammer trick than I have with the forks. In one bad case, nothing short of red heat , a sledgehammer, and a gear puller got that taper free. |
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1. Always keep a mechanical fuel pump behind the seat (or in the trunk) for a carbureted vehicle
2. To change a mechanical fuel pump, use a flat, wide carpenters pencil to hold the fuel pump pushrod up while you put the new pump on. 3. As long as you keep tools with you, you likely won’t need them. |
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Take a piece of charcoal from your backyard grill and sketch the spring arrangement of the drum brakes on your 1976 Buick Estate Wagon onto the driveway. That way when your brother disassembles the other side, leaving no comparison, you can get it right.
If you are super rich, just take a Polaroid, like a bigshot. |
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Turns out, it was a different elephant.
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I always knew how to get along with a man, if I liked him. Olga Greenlaw
2024 - Gonna be Trump, sure as shit. |
Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: First try just smacking the bottom of the fuel tank with a broom handle..often it is enough to get an electric pump to work fine again...eventually it will do it again and no beating will free it up, but it's rare it won't work the first time a pump quits... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By AKSnowRider: Originally Posted By SystemFailCoreDump: Do you have an electric fuel pump gone bad and it's in your fuel tank? Can't get to that fuel pump without dropping the fuel tank? Not anywhere near your garage and all your tools and you need to get this bitch to start and roll down the road or at least get it onto a trailer so you can tow the bitch? Here's your solution ... You will need a refrigerant flush bottle, a fuel injection pressure testing kit and hoses (that comes with a pressure gauge), some fuel and a portable air compressor. You can pretty easily fashion a pressurized miniature fuel tank that you can swap out your fuel tank fuel line for. A quart sized flush bottle will get you at least a couple of miles or get you on to a tow dolly/trailer. If you need go further just put more fuel in the bottle and repressurize. I'll go snap some pictures of the setup I keep in a bag in a bit when I get done doing my dipshit boss' job for him. FML, I hate this job. ![]() First try just smacking the bottom of the fuel tank with a broom handle..often it is enough to get an electric pump to work fine again...eventually it will do it again and no beating will free it up, but it's rare it won't work the first time a pump quits... You usually get one try at that. |
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"full exhaust to open headers in a short time"
drill out holes, put in "pipe plugs" and voila ![]() |
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When torquing fasteners, torque until failure then back off 1/4 turn.
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If you smell like a whore's perfume just slam a 26 of whisky to cover the smell.
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Originally Posted By Jayne_Cobb: I’ll keep them, thanks. I’ve had less luck with the hammer trick than I have with the forks. In one bad case, nothing short of red heat , a sledgehammer, and a gear puller got that taper free. View Quote Back up the off side with another hammer. I have watched guys destroy pickle forks and the cute screw type separators. I walk up with 2, 2lb sledges. One on one side of the eye and WHACK on the other side of the eye. Works every fucking time, even on tractor trailer tie rods. EVERY FUCKING TIME. |
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Attempting to change human behavior by regulating a mechanical device is an exercise in futility, ignorance and most importantly, arrogance.
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Originally Posted By maddmatt: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Originally Posted By jackthom8: ALWAYS wear fucking gloves! Don't listen to the dumbass boomers who think not wearing gloves is manly, cars are full of toxic chemical shit that will fuck up your skin! I don't wear gloves and wash my hands with I'm Fight me ![]() A little sniff instantly clears up a stuffy nose, too. |
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I always knew how to get along with a man, if I liked him. Olga Greenlaw
2024 - Gonna be Trump, sure as shit. |
Originally Posted By DamascusKnifemaker: /media/mediaFiles/sharedAlbum/476-342.gif 99% of the time the tool goes into the mystery black hole the manufacture builds into the vehicle. My 10mm socket is forever lost in the Jeep Wrangler engine compartment. View Quote When I pulled the radiator out of my 1975 BMW 2002 I found not one but two 10mm sockets in the nose under the rad cavity. |
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Rust Belt Brake Tip:
Having a hard time removing the brake line from a caliper or wheel cylinder because the nut and steel tubing have become one and is trying to twist the steel line? Use a small torch to heat up the nut and tubing and then using a spray bottle of water, spray just the tubing then try to turn the nut. The steel tubing will cool faster than the nut and will help break the bond caused by the rust. |
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USN Retired: APR 1988 - MAY 2008
"My center is giving way, my right is falling back, situation excellent, I attack." —Ferdinand Foch |
Originally Posted By Seabee_Mech: Rust Belt Brake Tip: Having a hard time removing the brake line from a caliper or wheel cylinder because the nut and steel tubing have become one and is trying to twist the steel line? Use a small torch to heat up the nut and tubing and then using a spray bottle of water, spray just the tubing then try to turn the nut. The steel tubing will cool faster than the nut and will help break the bond caused by the rust. View Quote I wood be veeeeery cautious applying a torch to a caliper brake line for reasons that can be very interesting ![]() |
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Originally Posted By Stutzmech: I wood be veeeeery cautious applying a torch to a caliper brake line for reasons that can be very interesting ![]() View Quote ETA: It's better to just let it twist off and replace the line but sometimes you're where replacement parts are unobtainium. |
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USN Retired: APR 1988 - MAY 2008
"My center is giving way, my right is falling back, situation excellent, I attack." —Ferdinand Foch |
Originally Posted By Stutzmech: I wood be veeeeery cautious applying a torch to a caliper brake line for reasons that can be very interesting ![]() View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Stutzmech: Originally Posted By Seabee_Mech: Rust Belt Brake Tip: Having a hard time removing the brake line from a caliper or wheel cylinder because the nut and steel tubing have become one and is trying to twist the steel line? Use a small torch to heat up the nut and tubing and then using a spray bottle of water, spray just the tubing then try to turn the nut. The steel tubing will cool faster than the nut and will help break the bond caused by the rust. I wood be veeeeery cautious applying a torch to a caliper brake line for reasons that can be very interesting ![]() meh the vehicle can only burn to the groundonce |
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Take it easy and if it's easy take it twice
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Don't port heads unless you know what you are doing. Ported a set of 289 HiPo heads and ruined the low end torque as well as killing it up top.
On a dual cab truck or 4 door car lower back rear window and driver window a couple inches. Best way to air out a vehicle without having the wind blow in your face. Adjust each one to find the correct air flow ratio and reduce wind noise. |
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when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
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Originally Posted By Stutzmech: Reminds me, never tie-wrap brake lines and main batt. hot lines to each other ![]() View Quote |
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USN Retired: APR 1988 - MAY 2008
"My center is giving way, my right is falling back, situation excellent, I attack." —Ferdinand Foch |
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