Okay, depending on the construction of your building, a steel door and frame may or may not be the way to go. If your building is wood frame with plywood on the outside with stucco over it, and just wallboard on the inside, then although your door may be secure, burglars can come straight through the wall. If it is a block building, is it hollow block or poured-concrete block?
From there...
The drawback to electronic security is its multiple vulnerabilities. Power loss, circuit cut, sensor malfunction, processor malfunction, etc. With electronic security, the quality of your INSTALLATION will be more critical; You can't just have Joe Electrician come and slap in a Radio Snack security system and expect it to do what you want it to.
The KISS method seems to work for me. If you're going to have a steel door, then get a lock rated for a steel door, preferably at least an ANSI grade 2 or better (There are those who would say a grade 2 isn't suitable for a steel door, but that's from a Fire Code perspective). Type of lock: 3rd generation pickproof (yes, they make them). Recommendations: Medeco®, Schlage PRIMUS®, or Mul-T-Lock®. Of the three, the Medeco is the most drill-resistant, whereas the Schlage Primus can be more easily integrated into your current house keyways if you're already using a Schlage keyway. Mul-T-Lock is by far the most duplicate-resistant, as its patents are the newest and their factory most closely controls key blanks and key machines for their system.
So now you've sealed your portal but good.
And we've already discussed the windows. Down to construction.
Keep in mind that your building construction becomes moot once you've reached a certain level of safe inside that building. A TL-rated safe of any kind is going to be more secure than any structure's door-and-construction combination except maybe a bank vault. Case in point: I have a TLTR-30 safe I've left on the sidewalk in a bad neighborhood for a month. Just left it there. Then I picked it up. There wasn't even any graffiti on it (but there could have been, but graffiti does not allow access to the contents, no matter what the taggers would have you believe.)
The safe is TL (Tool Rated) and TR (Torch Rated) and weighs 3600 pounds. It doesn't matter WHERE I put it, as long as I don't crack the foundation beneath it...heh.
I guess my point is that there are a lot of options out there and it greatly depends on what level of security will make you happy. You can slap a Home Depot Kwikset Grade One on that steel door, and its spool tumblers will foil all but the most skilled entry artists, and honestly, very few people pick locks anymore. They're more inclined to go with brute force than finesse.
In which case, we're back to construction...
The dog's not a bad idea, but the downside to that is that if it barks at every little thing, you will start to tune it out (how often does anyone go out to check a car alarm going off anymore??) and then if something happens, and the dog barks yet again...do you respond?
I've said enough for you to consider. Get back to me if you would like specifics.
Panz
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