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Posted: 8/30/2004 3:10:39 PM EST
I'm in the market for a new gun safe - I hate to spend a ton of money on one right now, but I'm way overdue. Most of the ones I'm looking at are made with a 12ga. body, sometimes 10, and UL rated as "RSC" (Residential Security Container) Is 10-12 ga. steel really enough to stop anything other than teenagers on a smash & grab? I've also looked at ones with a TL-15 and TL-30 rating which are described on the manufacturer's website as having: Body walls of material equivalent to at least 1" open hearth steel with a minimum tensile strength of 50,000 P.S.I. Walls fastened in a manner equivalent to continuous 1/4" penetration weld of open hearth steel with minimum tensile strength of 50,000 P.S.I. (can someone explain to me what open hearth steel is and how secure this should be?) Is this really that much better than a 12-10 ga. steel body safe for the significant increase in cost? As I understand it, the TL rating is only the time in minutes it takes to open the door or make a 6" square hole in the door (which should be more difficult to break into than just the walls). Still sounds like anyone with a sawzall could cut in quite easily.
Link Posted: 8/30/2004 3:23:47 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/30/2004 3:32:53 PM EST by Gary_631]
For a Home Safe, a body of 11Ga. or better is best. 12Ga. or lighter can be open with a firemans axe. RSC rating is a UL 5 min test using hand tools. Very easy to get. I've seen safes out there with a 1" door and all it is, is a peace of 12ga fromed into a 1" door. I have seen that same safe open with 2 14" screw drivers. Make sure you find out how the door is made. The TL 15 and TL 30 is a tool rating. TL 15 means 15 mins to get in TL 30 means 30 mins to get in with power tools and books and papers on how to get in. Unless you have over $500,000 worth of stuff to put in your safe. Its a little over kill.


Still sounds like anyone with a sawzall could cut in quite easily.


Very true. I havn't seen a safe other then bank vaults that can't be open with one. With a safe you only buy time.

So with buying a safe. There are some basic rules. Stay away from anything at chain stores, and safes with a Gun name on it. 11Ga+ body, and if plate door 1/4 or better, if compsite door, find out how it is made.
Link Posted: 8/30/2004 3:43:22 PM EST
The door on my Winchester (Granite) RSC, is heavy hard plate steel. The rest is 10ga, and you could be in it in a couple of minutes with a grinder. I have thought of bolting it to the floor in a corner protecting the back and one side by the walls, then adding some extra steel to the top and one exposed side..
Link Posted: 8/30/2004 4:07:46 PM EST
The Winchester is a good cheap safe, 10ga. body, 1/4 plate door, and I think SAMS have them around $599 now? Only bad thing about it other then fire, is the hinges. Depending on how old yours is. The new ones are using a internal one which can be gotten in with a good swing of a slage hammer. If you have the external hinges, your good to go. Bolting down isn't needed, but every little big makes it harder to get in.
Link Posted: 8/30/2004 4:11:29 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/30/2004 4:14:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/30/2004 4:14:57 PM EST by Gary_631]
seen lots open thought the door. Used to be givin that the door was hardest part of safe to get by. Not anymore.
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