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Posted: 7/19/2008 7:05:02 AM EDT
Anyone ever replaced one of these and how hard of a job is it? I hear that I'll need a second person for atl east part of the job? Any special tools I'll need?
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 2:33:43 PM EDT
Line wrench of the appropriate size for the hydraulic line at the cylinder. it's fairly straight forward. undo the line, unbolt the slave from the bell housing. You may have to swap the actuator rod to the new cylinder. bolt the new one up, attach and tighten the line. Fill the Master with proper fluid(should be ordinary DOT 3 brake fluid) and bleed. Bleeding is where you'll need another foot to operate the pedal for you. After that you should be good to go.
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 3:56:54 PM EDT

Originally Posted By johnQpublik:
Line wrench of the appropriate size for the hydraulic line at the cylinder. it's fairly straight forward. undo the line, unbolt the slave from the bell housing. You may have to swap the actuator rod to the new cylinder. bolt the new one up, attach and tighten the line. Fill the Master with proper fluid(should be ordinary DOT 3 brake fluid) and bleed. Bleeding is where you'll need another foot to operate the pedal for you. After that you should be good to go.


Thanks, line wrench is something I need to get anyway. I plan on doing it friday morning, I am hoping that the slave is where the problem is, from what if feels like it is the problem. I shall see.
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 4:09:27 PM EDT
What exactly is the problem? As in what is it doing, or not doing right? As a Master tech I'll help with what I can from here.
Link Posted: 7/22/2008 10:40:13 PM EDT
The clutch pedal has no pressure in it, it feels really soft when I push it in. Sometimes I can pump it up a few times and get it working for a short time but then it goes right back to the old dead fish feel.

I bled it once and that helped out a little for a while, now it is to the point where I am lucky if I can get enough pressure out of it to get it in gear at all.

Master cylinder resovoir is good on fluid and there does not appear to be any leaks. I am thinking I should of gone a head and bought the master too at the same time.
Link Posted: 7/23/2008 3:52:22 AM EDT
Probably would have been a good idea. If there are no leaks, then it can be either one of the two units. The slave cyl. is pretty much just the master cyl. in reverse, so it's got a piston, cup, and rod just like the master. However if there are no leaks, and there is also no pressure, I would look into the master first, since it is what is creating the pressure for the system(when it's working properly anyway).
Link Posted: 7/23/2008 4:08:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/23/2008 4:09:10 AM EDT by AssaultRifler]
pretty easy job, loosen the hydraulic line fitting first with a flare nut wrench, then the 2 mounting bolts, then the hydraulic line, with the slave cylinder unmounted you can remove the hydraulic line without bending it

Slap in a new one, reverse steps as above, then attach a clear plastic tubing to the bleeder valve nipple, the other end in a plastic 12 oz clear soda bottle. Then with a wrench open it up about 1/4 turn or more.

Then have a buddy press on the clutch pedal and hold it down, then you tighten the bleeder valve again, buddy raises clutch pedal, repeat until no air bubbles in the system. Better yet, repeat until all the brake fluid is yellow and no air in the system. Top off the clutch master cylinder about every 6 or so clutch pedal presses.

Access to the clutch slave is easier if you drive the truck up on ramps.
Link Posted: 7/28/2008 10:29:03 AM EDT
Well I should of done the master cylinder at the same time because the slave change out only helped minumally. I ordered the master cylinder from an online store friday so hopefully it is here soon.

Job was not hard other than I didn't have the correct metric line wrench so I ended up using vice grips and the line I had to loosen was a PITA to get to. The master seems like it will be easier to get to if nothing else. Also I am going to pick up a 10mm line wrench for the job this time.
Link Posted: 7/29/2008 12:22:19 AM EDT
I would go for the master cylinder first.
Link Posted: 7/29/2008 12:49:14 PM EDT
Link Posted: 7/29/2008 1:52:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ACOGless:
Well I should of done the master cylinder at the same time because the slave change out only helped minumally. I ordered the master cylinder from an online store friday so hopefully it is here soon.

Job was not hard other than I didn't have the correct metric line wrench so I ended up using vice grips and the line I had to loosen was a PITA to get to. The master seems like it will be easier to get to if nothing else. Also I am going to pick up a 10mm line wrench for the job this time.


Yup, figured that out when I did the slave.
Link Posted: 8/18/2008 12:54:10 PM EDT
Well I did both with relatively no problems, biggest PIA was getting my clutch pedal adjusted back to the correct posistion so it felt "right" when I pushed it in.
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