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Posted: 8/11/2017 5:38:19 PM EDT
Replaced my thermostat with a wifi unit, and one of the drywall mounting holes got messed up.
The one on the left is fine, but the hole on the right is messed up. The tstat is holding on the wall fine, but it's loose feeling if you touch it. What about this stuff? 
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:01:08 PM EDT
[#1]
That would probably work fine. I'd use drywall mud instead if you have it. You could also relocate the holes, but the thermostat might not cover the spot up completely. You could also use bigger drywall anchors.
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:09:26 PM EDT
[#2]
Toggle bolt will work.
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:18:21 PM EDT
[#3]
I recommend using zip its for all your future anchor needs. They come in many sizes and materials and are cheap and effective. Especially for bathroom fixtures and things that are under load.
As for the holes. Wood epoxy dries hard and sandable. Not really suitable for your needs. Maybe if you reinstalled anchors first than did it. But not before. The material will just pop out. You may consider making a beauty plate or buying some discrete plastic round object and making one. The only proper fix for that drywall is a hot patch. |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:22:10 PM EDT
[#4]
Maybe something like this. (If your thermo is round"
Door knob stopper, plastic. 
Cut hole for your wiring. Mount plate a little higher on good drywall. Mount thermo to plate. Paint if needed. Drink beer. Obviously if your thermo is square , find something square, but you get the idea. |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:26:32 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Maybe something like this. (If your thermo is round" Door knob stopper, plastic. https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/8696fa14-61cd-47a4-8424-62ced82a6fd7_1.367c95c9d63e9b4f8c6ffb4eb9f3a334.jpeg?odnHeight=450&odnWidth=450&odnBg=FFFFFF Cut hole for your wiring. Mount plate a little higher on good drywall. Mount thermo to plate. Paint if needed. Drink beer. Obviously if your thermo is square , find something square, but you get the idea. |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:30:54 PM EDT
[#6]
A better way is to cut out the section of the wall that is not painted. Grab some painters mixing sticks. Say the square hole you cut is 5 inches, cut and stack the mixing sticks to 7 inches. Slide the sticks behind the wall leaving 1 inch on both sides of the wall and secure with drywall screws so that you can see the sticks through the hole. Do this to the top and bottom portion of the hole you cut in the wall. Or left and right depending where your studs are. Lowes sells scrap drywall, at least mine does. Cut a piece of drywall to fit the whole you cut out. Cut a small piece from the 12 o'clock part of the new piece to the middle for the wires. Fit the new piece inside the hole and secure to the painters sticks with dry wall screws. Spread mud, sand smooth paint stand back and profit.
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Posted: 8/11/2017 6:33:09 PM EDT
[#7]
Just get a drywall anchor cost your two bucks and 5 minutes time.
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Posted: 8/11/2017 7:06:53 PM EDT
[#8]
I'd cut it out and patch it.
Or at least fill it with DAP compound, then use bigger anchors like the white ones posted above. |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 7:23:30 PM EDT
[#9]
Another option.
If you have a piece of 1/2 plywood you can open up the drywall hole and fill the void with plywood. You have a stud to screw it to. The screw anchor mentioned above works well too if the existing holes aren't too large. I wouldn't use putty. |
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Posted: 8/11/2017 10:08:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Bust out the hot glue gun or a caulking gun, this is stil a gun site
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Posted: 8/12/2017 7:22:28 PM EDT
[#11]
Durabond.
At least Easysand 20. |
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Posted: 8/14/2017 7:48:39 AM EDT
[#12]
Easiest, quickest solution was already mentioned. Toggle bolts.
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Posted: 8/14/2017 1:59:23 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Easiest, quickest solution was already mentioned. Toggle bolts. |
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Posted: 8/15/2017 8:12:01 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would be worried that the even larger holes required for a toggle bolt would break out while being drilled. Now that I'm looking at that picture a little closer I see the wall stud. Can the new t-stat be screwed into the stud at the center? Or (as mentioned above) cut a horizontal rectangle in the drywall and screw a little cross piece of 1/2" plywood to the stud. Then screw the t-stat backing plate to that. |
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Posted: 8/23/2017 4:08:22 PM EDT
[#15]
Finally got time to fix it. I used wood epoxy and zipits (as recommended above). I set the zipits in the wood epoxy and let it dry for 2 days. It is hard as a rock.
Used a vanity plate to cover the huge hole in the wall, and it is quite secure on the wall. I think it would have been better to cut out the drywall and replace it, but this works and all the band-aid stuff is confined to a small area that could be cut out and repaired properly in the future. 
eta: I'm not sure why the screen looks like that in the pic. It is clear in real life. |
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Posted: 8/24/2017 8:13:52 PM EDT
[#16]
Nice fix. Pic looks like that because of refresh rate difference between the LCD on the 'stat vs the CCD in the camera.
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