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9/19/2017 7:27:10 PM
Posted: 1/16/2006 6:13:33 PM EDT
Have a "new" (Circa 1999-2001) Springfield M1A.

Trying to remove the current flashider to replace with one with a bayo lug. I have both Hex nuts out, but the @!$%@!$# castle nut will NOT budge. I've heated it, triend penetrating oil. Nada. I've beaten the damn thing till I'm tired of beating.

Any suggestions?

Do the damn pliers made for the FS removal Really work? Seems to me this stubborn fucker would just break them.

Is it Loctited? Soldered? Welded? Being held on by the gravity of the black hole that is Dianne Fienstien's mouth?

ARFcom Hive mind weigh in! I need the Fvcker OFF!

SG

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:16:19 PM EDT
What did you heat it with? Try a torch from 10-12".
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:16:45 PM EDT
You got that little Allen grub screw out too, right? If so, USGI castle nut pliers are really the way to go.
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:17:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/16/2006 8:45:10 PM EDT by AILapua]
I made my own castle nut pliers. I have found they are far superior to others I have purchased. Which, each of the bought version have failed.

I will post a .jpg of them shortly.

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:18:08 PM EDT
I remember I had a hard time getting mine off too. Is it possible the nut unscrews clockwise? I seem to remember there was some trick.
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:18:58 PM EDT
I just used the recommended pliers. Once I took out the locking screws it wasn't even that tight.

I guess you just got lucky.

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:21:32 PM EDT

Originally Posted By triburst1:
What did you heat it with? Try a torch from 10-12".



Propane torch, to just hotter than smoking. Not red hot.

SG
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 6:34:37 PM EDT
Bump, for the hell of it.

:)
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 9:58:45 PM EDT
Try tapping on the back of the FS to move it forward. You've probably moved the castlenut as far as it wil go forward & if the splines on the FS & barrel are mated tight you won't budge the castlenut until you move the FS forward some more.
HTH


____________________________________
The only hope you have is to accept the fact that you are already dead. And the sooner you accept that, the sooner you will be able to function as a soldier is supposed to function, without mercy, without compassion, without remorse.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 8:24:14 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ColtShorty:
Try tapping on the back of the FS to move it forward. You've probably moved the castlenut as far as it wil go forward & if the splines on the FS & barrel are mated tight you won't budge the castlenut until you move the FS forward some more.
HTH



Will do.

Ordered the !#$!#@ pliers anyway.

SG
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 8:30:31 AM EDT
if you are using the gas cylinder wrench along with the castle nut wrench, lay the rifle flat on the floor on its side so the gas cylinder wrench keeps it from rolling.

My M1A required a week's worth of repeated Kroil soakings until it finally came off with a horrendous SHRIEK.
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 8:35:30 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/17/2006 8:37:51 AM EDT by RichinCM]
Take the setscrew (see part 18 in the picture - link below) out of the FS assembly and it should back out easily enough. If not, then tap the back side of the FS and then try turning the castle nut.

M1A exploded view
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 8:41:53 AM EDT

Originally Posted By RichinCM:
Take the setscrew (see part 18 in the picture - link below) out of the FS assembly and it should back out easily enough. If not, then tap the back side of the FS and then try turning the castle nut.

M1A exploded view



Set screw was out.

Will try tapping the back of the FS when I get home today.

SG
Link Posted: 1/17/2006 8:49:27 AM EDT
what I did on my SKS's grenade launcher:

heat it with torch
IMMEDIATELY apply strip of leather, tighten vice grips, tap it loose with mallet
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