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Posted: 2/5/2006 1:28:44 PM EDT
[#1]
all I know is that the metal has to be absolutely clean otherwise it looks like shit
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:02:34 PM EDT
[#2]
I'd love to be able to powder coat stuff. Does it look like a decent set-up??
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:07:50 PM EDT
[#3]
you might want to search / ask on the caswell powder coating forum:
http://forum.caswellplating.com/ |
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:10:58 PM EDT
[#4]
Someone here did their own powder coating with a old regular oven, I remember the person though.
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:11:04 PM EDT
[#5]
Will do. You ain't a real man til you've powder coated something!
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:15:38 PM EDT
[#6]
I can attest to this much: Powder coating has been in vogue in the U. S. Navy for years and it works very well for a number of shipboard applications. Now...just consider the environment that equipment has to operate in...
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:19:56 PM EDT
[#7]
With powder coating your prone to chipping due to the brittle surface. You end up with thin and thick areas as well, it's hard to get a uniform coat.
I just read a very good article on powder coating and all the cons associated with it. I'll try to find it. |
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:41:24 PM EDT
[#8]
My father worked as a mechanical supervisorat an oil tank factory for several years. I ended up powder-coating my winchester shotgun (put it throught the the preparation line witht the tanks.) It looks real goos, textured, matt black and it don't chip at all. We also did the K-member and a lot of the running gear for his charger and my barracuda. I've seen it done in a household oven (with excellent results) but don't bake cookies in it after unless you like that chemical taste
 P.S., since the gun was a beater that I found in the woods in the first place, I haven't oiled it or treated any of the coated surfaces in 8 years, and it has not rusted (I don't think it can) |
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:45:51 PM EDT
[#9]
Powder coating goes on thick compared to typical firearms finishes, moving parts will tighten up. When chipped or work no real touch up possible, just a total refinish will work.
Also keep in mind the high temps in the over, no springs will survive. |
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:54:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Yes that reminds me of what I had intended to say, dis-assemble the gun and mask off any parts you do not want coated. NEVER put springs in an oven, it may not damage them but it aint worth the risk, take the extra time and completely dis-assemble the component parts.
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Posted: 2/5/2006 3:55:29 PM EDT
[#11]
Bastiat, I made a big mistake clicking on that link. That place has everything I need, well not need, but want.
 I can't wait to start sand blasting stuff!!
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Posted: 2/5/2006 4:01:02 PM EDT
[#12]
Check out the 'make your own oven' forum...it's like WECSOG for powder coating! |
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Posted: 2/5/2006 4:13:34 PM EDT
[#13]
You can make your own oven? That's great. Now my wife won't shoot me when I use her new Wolf.
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Posted: 2/5/2006 4:31:30 PM EDT
[#14]
I did all the powdercoating at Barrett for a long time. All the mags were done in a polyurethane based powder. When cured, it makes for a decently slick surface to make the .50 shells come up in the mag easier.
I did a few guns also. All the M82A1's for Holland were done in an OD green. They looked really nice. Did 1 in tan that turned out great. Always wanted to do a snow camo but the boss wouldn't let me. I did a few bolt guns for friends that turned out good. |
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Posted: 2/5/2006 4:45:44 PM EDT
[#15]
Since there's no shortage of companies that will powder-coat whatever you bring in, is there any real advantage to doing it yourself?
How many jobs would you have to do yourself in order to break even on the cost of the materials, applicator gun, curing oven, do-overs, etc.? 
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Posted: 2/5/2006 4:56:03 PM EDT
[#16]
Skibane, that's not really important. Kind of like asking if you really need a dozen black rifles.
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Posted: 2/5/2006 5:37:03 PM EDT
[#17]
BUILD A POWDERCOAT OVEN |
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