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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 8/1/2005 12:30:16 PM EDT
Get a good smooth finish, i'm using minwax gloss with the best brush lowes sells, is there any tricks that will give me a professional loooking finish?
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 12:33:05 PM EDT
Get all the dust off. Then do it again. Then do it again.

Keep a "wet edge" all the time.

Don't use a fan. You'll just blow dust into the wet poly.

Follow the directions to use multiple thin coats, and clean your brush thoroghly between coats.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 12:34:54 PM EDT
I use those cheapo sponge brushes with
a couple of coats and it always looks nice.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 12:36:35 PM EDT

Originally Posted By DzlBenz:
"wet edge" .



what do you mean?
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 12:39:07 PM EDT

Originally Posted By superdav:

Originally Posted By DzlBenz:
"wet edge" .



what do you mean?

Always try to work so that you're puting wet finish against either fresh wet finish, or completely dry finish. If you put fresh finish against partially-dry finish, you risk a globby spot which may trap some air bubbles or other cruddy-looking defects.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 12:40:44 PM EDT


ok, i'm going at it now.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 12:41:29 PM EDT
What are you finishing? Always try and put the finish on a horizontal surface, if possible. That'll let the finish "level" out. Take your time, but don't overdo the brushing. Once it starts to set, you'll just make it worse if you keep brushing it on.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 1:22:35 PM EDT

Originally Posted By superdav:
Get a good smooth finish, i'm using minwax gloss with the best brush lowes sells, is there any tricks that will give me a professional loooking finish?



To get a smooth finish, do not use Minwax polyurethane - use one of the polymerizing oil finishes, tung oil in particular or a wiping varnish. Tung oil builds to a thin film after multiple coats, if that's what you want. The good news is each coat is easy to apply.

Do not use a brush - use a rag to wipe it on. Sanding between coats is what gives a smooth finish - it rmoves the bumps and bubbles from teh previous coat before trapping them beneath subsequent coats.

Polyurethane creates a hard but brittle film on the surface, one that is easily dented/chopped because the underlying surface is much soft than the film. Once cured it is impossible to get anything to stick to polyurethane, so repairs are almost impossible.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 1:37:29 PM EDT
I've had good luck with Minwax Poly satin spray-on as the last coat. You can see it in the horzontal pieces in some bookshelves I built:



After it's dried a couple days, rub out the finish with 0000 steel wool and Johnson's paste wax, the same technique you'd use to wax your car.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 1:47:21 PM EDT
All good advice above, but I prefer Watco Danish oil finish then hand rub Butcher's (brand) wax
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 2:41:57 PM EDT

Originally Posted By TheCynic:
I use those cheapo sponge brushes with
a couple of coats and it always looks nice.




+1 Used these brushes on a handrail for the stairs.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 3:19:20 PM EDT
The foam disposable brushes actually tend to work better for a polyurethane finish.

Get all the dust off. This means vacuum, blow compressed air on the piece, then wipe it lightly with a tack rag. Stir the poly with a stick (for gloss you don't have to stir it really, but it doesn't hurt). Thin it down just a tad bit with some mineral spirits or paint thinner. Then brush on light even coats, and don't let one stroke dry before overlapping it with the next (keep a wet edge as mentioned) - do not overbrush. Allow to dry overnight and lightly sand with 320 grit, then repeat the process to clean off the dust. After that, repeat the application process.

Build up at least three coats.

You can also thin down the poly with an equal, or slightly less than equal amount of mineral spirits and wipe it on with a clean lint free cloth. I have better luck with this type of application and the finish doesn't look like it's just sitting on it as much as if it was brushed on. If wipe it on you will need at least two more coats, however.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 3:28:51 PM EDT
I'm building a table right now. Going to finish it up this weekend and plan on using this on it:

we'll see how it works. I don't expect a mirror like shine.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 3:38:12 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Red_Beard:
I'm building a table right now. Going to finish it up this weekend and plan on using this on it:

www.minwax.com/Images/Products/antique-oil.jpg we'll see how it works. I don't expect a mirror like shine.



You won't get a shine with an oil finish, more of a warm satin sheen.

It will give you little protection from abrasion and water. Make sure to work your way up and finish sanding with 320, then buff with 0000 steel wool. Wipe on the oil, wipe of excess, allow to dry, buff with 0000 steel wool, and repeat.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 5:17:34 PM EDT

thanks for all the replies, i'm sticking with the minwax cause i already bought it and put the first coat on, it's going on oak cabinets btw.

nice shelves too
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 5:18:46 PM EDT
THIN COATS!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Sgat1r5
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 5:24:05 PM EDT
If you must put it down with a brush, I have had the best results with a good foam. Not the real cheap ones, spend a buck or so on the better one. I usually spray my finish suing a HVLP sprayer which really allows me to control the amount and layering I want. The best advise which have been given already is to make sure your surface is dust free and try to put the poly down on a horizontal surface.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 5:24:46 PM EDT
quality brush is a MUST!!!!!!


Sgat1r5
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 5:29:35 PM EDT
Set the can of varnish in a pan of near boiling water to warm it up. It will flow much better and give you a much better finish. Keep changing the water to keep it hot. Start warming the varnish for several minutes before you start.
Link Posted: 8/1/2005 5:36:14 PM EDT
in order to get a nice smooth finish, it has to be sanded with very fine sandpaper between coats. this is to get the bubbles out
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