I've got a tub drain leak.    This tub is on an upstairs floor.    The bathroom is directly above the Kitchen.    The Kitchen ceiling is designed to allow access to the upstairs plumbing through removable plexiglass panels.

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The above is what I can access from below.   Now this tub actually has two issues.   One is the overflow leaks as well.   I can handle living with this for a while longer as access to the overflow would require demo to access that area through the opposite wall(left side of picture) which also happens to be the master bath with a built in granite top vanity that would require removal.   The drain leak is an immediate in need of repair job.   I just had a plumber out and he said to repair it correctly he'd need access above the floor because there is a copper pipe entering from the top of the "T" fitting and slides through to the bottom.   The copper tube is corroded out the bottom of the "T" fitting.  It's not broken yet but it's getting close.

So what I need to do immediately is to see if I can temp repair the lower drain at least until I do demo and do a more permanent repair.   The lower nut on the "T" fitting is a compression fitting but the interior copper sleeve that it's compressing is as mentioned corroding away.   Is there anyway to cut away the black plastic pipe and use the threaded lower portion of the "T" fitting?


As it is now I have a shallow catch pan underneath the "J" trap catching any seepage.   Also I can enlarge the opening a little more to help with work.    This is between wall space.

BTW I was given a repair estimate to repair both issues of $980.00 but I would be doing the demo.    NOT!

If you can access the leak, apply plumbers "GOOP". Sounds too easy, but it has worked for me.

Not that I know of, different threads.

If you want to DIY-

You can replace the tub drain without any demo if a second person is available.  You will likely need to enlarge the hole in the floor for a little more knuckle room.  

1- Remove the two screw at the overflow.

2- Remove the tub flange ( top side ) with a pair of needle nose pliers or this specialty tool- LINK.  The tool is cheap.

3- Loosen the three compression fittings beneath the floor.  Remove the overflow portion first.  Rotate the drain tee 90 degrees and remove the remainder of the drain but save all of the parts.

4- Reassemble the old drain because that will give you the dimensions you will need to cut the new drain parts to the proper length.

5- Assembly the overflow portion of the drain to the tee.  Make that slip nut tight...  There is a threaded tailpiece that installs in the bottom of the tee, install that too with pipe dope on the threads.  Be careful, it has very fine threads and cross threads easily.  Put a new slip nut and ferrule on the tailpiece. While someone is in the tub raise the overflow pipe, tee and tailpiece beyond the ABS trap adapter and then lower it until the tail piece and overflow are in the proper position.  

6- Install the horizontal portion of the drain.


You will need teflon paste and plumbers putty.  Use them liberally, you can clean the excess. The plumbers putty goes between the drain flange and the top surface of the tub, never had good luck with the rubber gasket in the drain kit if it's provided for the top side. The rubber gasket for the underside is GTG.  Some people use clear silicone, if you do that make sure the surface is dry and allow 24 hours before water testing.

Make sure all surfaces are clean prior to installing the new drain and it should work fine.  I usually like to fill the tub and let it drain to check for leaks because of the added head pressure.  

That vertical piece of ABS drain is a little too tall.  It wouldn't hurt to make it shorter, just adjust the tailpiece length accordingly.

^^^^Do what Bill said

No reason why you cant replace the overflow and drain from underneath.  Go buy a pvc tub drain kit and have at it.  Buy another small piece of 1 1/2" pvc too, just in case the pre cut ones in the kit arent long enough.  Depending on what drain you are using, you might want to buy a drain wrench too, so you can really screw it in well.  And yes, you will need another person.

FYI   I now have a whole replacement kit.    This is a brass and copper one though and not the pvc model.   I can now see more of how this one is setup and an incorrect previous installation.    The lower copper tail piece is actually a shorter piece with threads that screws into the lower part of the Brass "T".

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Whomever did the installation/repair on this one earlier(prior to me buying this home) did it incorrectly.   I can now possibly try and remove the old threaded tail piece(highly doubtful with all the corrosion) simply repair that part or attempt to replace the whole unit.  It's also possible the copper tailpiece is actually not corroded at all and what I'm seeing is simply crud buildup at the leakage point.   I'm afraid to do too much with it for fear of it actually breaking then I'm stuck with whatever repair I can do myself.   This might be as simple as repairing it properly.

Either way I might be able to replace the whole drain piece(I got a whole kit minus one nut and washer) as suggested.  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Easy-Touch-1-1-2-in-20-Gauge-Brass-Pipe-Bath-Drain-in-Brushed-Nickel-WO-5-BN-EZ/206393881

But I need to do it with help from inside the tub and when I know I've got time to do it in case I might need other parts.    You know how that works!

It is brass and plastic. They don't corrode to much mostly water deposits