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Posted: 8/22/2006 10:20:28 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 12:12:55 PM EDT by CR_OPSO]
What a vacation, huh? I'm in the mountains in Jasper, AR with my pregnant wife and 3 yr old daughter. We're in a cabin in the middle of nowhere... miles from anyone that can help. I do have a phone and dial-up internet, so I'm not completely stranded.

Anyway... here's what's happening: Yesterday, we loaded up in the truck (2000 Tahoe Limited w/ 5.7 V8) and it wouldn't start. It fires like normal and dies immediately. I checked the air filter and it looks fine. The PCV valve looks normal (for all I know... not an expert). There's plenty of gas and the battery is good. I just had a full service oil change the day before we left. The truck did great the whole way here and actually got better mileage than I usually do. Frustrated, we went inside to scratch up some lunch. About 2 hours later, I tried to start it and it cranked right up. We drove it to the nearest real city (pop 12K). It stopped and started fine for the rest of the day (we went 4 places) so I figured it was just a glitch. Wishful thinking.

This morning, we all loaded up to leave again and it did the same thing. Actually, I cranked it around 8am to just see if it would work and it did. We got all cleaned up and ready to go and it didn't work. I wondered if it was a computer problem, so I unhooked the battery and hooked it back up thinking that would reset it and MAYBE fix it. NOPE. The fuel pump also sounds normal (but like I said, I'm not a mechanic). I did notice a slightly funny smell from the exhaust, but it's not like sour gas or anything... almost like it's flooded, but it's fuel injected... So, here we sit again.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? Any help would be great appreciated!

Thanks,
Chad

ET­A: It has 65K miles on it.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:23:29 AM EDT
Could be bad gas... Could be computer... Could be a hundred things with that description.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:26:28 AM EDT
Could be a leaking injector, plugged catastrophic converter, weak coil(s), clogged fuel filter ...

Beware of banjo music playing in the woods, though!
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:26:37 AM EDT
Do you have two sets of keys with you? Some keys are coded to a vehicle but can be damaged and stop working correctly. Is there any chance you used a different ke, maybe your wife's when you went to town?

It's a long shot I know but worth trying bearing present circumstances.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:27:10 AM EDT


Do you have OnStar? If so, they can run a remote diagnostic check on it.



Or it could be the old "Banana in the tailpipe" trick. Have you checked?

Good luck, sux to be broke down away from home.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:27:23 AM EDT
Is teh starter cranking but no start? If so It might be a bad starter relay, or starter.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:28:59 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:29:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FlamingGlory:
Could be bad gas... Could be computer... Could be a hundred things with that description.


My first guess was bad gas... but then it ran fine when it started yesterday afternoon. I even topped it off when we got to town with gas from a fairly new looking Shell station. Before that, we got gas at a Valero... never heard of it before, so I was wondering about that...
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:30:49 AM EDT

Originally Posted By divkat9:
Do you have two sets of keys with you? Some keys are coded to a vehicle but can be damaged and stop working correctly. Is there any chance you used a different ke, maybe your wife's when you went to town?

It's a long shot I know but worth trying bearing present circumstances.


I've been using the same key... but I'll see if my wife has her keys and try hers... Anything's worth a try!
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:31:51 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Bubbatheredneck:

Do you have OnStar? If so, they can run a remote diagnostic check on it.



Or it could be the old "Banana in the tailpipe" trick. Have you checked?

Nope, no OnStar

I'll look in the pipe just for the heck of it.

Good luck, sux to be broke down away from home.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:32:50 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Is teh starter cranking but no start? If so It might be a bad starter relay, or starter.


It actually fires, but when the RPM's come down to idle, it dies. So it runs for maybe 2 or 3 seconds.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:35:45 AM EDT

Originally Posted By petagunner:
I'd say fuel related, check the fuel filter and hope that it is not the fuel pump


How to check it? I'll have to pull it off, right?

I tapped it with a wrench just to see if maybe I'd dislodge something... yeah, long shot there, too! If it is the filter and I remove it, can it be cleaned and re-installed until I can get somewhere with a new one?
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:37:06 AM EDT
I had a problem like that once when I screwed up the firing order of a Chevy, it would start and die within seconds.

shooter
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:37:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 10:39:08 AM EDT by A-nus]
did you off road to get to the cabbin? give the under carrage a good look, see if any thing got knoked off and check if any critters might have crawled in to places they shouldn't be, like the air filter box.

Critter could have left for a while, then climed back in when you got back.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:42:45 AM EDT
Will it stay running with your foot on the accelerator pedal?


Try a different key, as suggested, if you have one.

Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:43:43 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:

Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Is teh starter cranking but no start? If so It might be a bad starter relay, or starter.


It actually fires, but when the RPM's come down to idle, it dies. So it runs for maybe 2 or 3 seconds.




If understand you correctly

This only happens after the truck has sat over night ?

The starter turns the engine over fine, the engine starts like normal but will die as soon as it returns to idle ?

You smell a possible rich mixture at the tail pipe.

Questions

Can you keep running by stepping/playing with the gas pedal ?/

Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:44:20 AM EDT
My first thought is Fuel pressure Regulator, then Fuel Pump, then Fuel Filter. The it works then not, then works again is the tough one.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:46:44 AM EDT
sounds like coil going bad or fuel filter/ pump. When you turn the key on I assume you can hear the pump pressurize the fuel rail. I had the coil go out on my GM and it acted the same.

Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:47:44 AM EDT
My Honda did that. It would turn over and start, but immediately it died. It turned out to be the ignition module. I don't know if a Chevy 350 has one, but it might be ignition related. This is a WILD guess.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:51:37 AM EDT

Originally Posted By u-baddog:

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:

Originally Posted By Fat_McNasty:
Is teh starter cranking but no start? If so It might be a bad starter relay, or starter.


It actually fires, but when the RPM's come down to idle, it dies. So it runs for maybe 2 or 3 seconds.




If understand you correctly

This only happens after the truck has sat over night ?

The starter turns the engine over fine, the engine starts like normal but will die as soon as it returns to idle ?

You smell a possible rich mixture at the tail pipe.

Questions

Can you keep running by stepping/playing with the gas pedal ?/




It does smell rich at the tailpipe... but it will not continue to run if I play with the gas... I actually tried that again and it died even faster... like it's getting too much gas.

I happened after it sat over night Sunday night, but it started early this morning. When I tried again at 10am, it wouldn't and still won't. Could altitude be part of the problem? I wouldn't think so, but I'm grasping.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:51:44 AM EDT
If you're in the mountains, couldn't you just coast downhill to the next town ?
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:52:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 10:56:18 AM EDT by ThunderStick]

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:
I did notice a slightly funny smell from the exhaust, but it's not like sour gas or anything... almost like it's flooded, but it's fuel injected... So, here we sit again.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? Any help would be great appreciated!

Thanks,
Chad


Could you be more specific about the "slight funny smell"? Was it sweet? (coolant leaking into the engine via bad head gaskets or cracked cylinder heads or a heater core leak) Is the exhaust clear? Blue? Dark cloud? Steamy?

Ny guess would be bad gasoline (i.e. water) from Valero--since that occured just before the problems appeared--but a good possibility is the idle control valve or the Throttle position sensor or an air flow sensor, because the car starts but can't maintain idle.

Any decent auto parts place will let you use a diagnostic sensor so that you may check for fault codes. If it comes up that a sensor may be the problem, swap it out with a new one at the parts shop.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:54:36 AM EDT


No "check engine" light? I'd lean towards a fuel related problem if you're not getting that. Most of the sensors hooked up to the PCU will cause the comp to throw a fault code when they malf.

Then again, you might have mashed the Cadillac converter on a big rock driving back in there.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 10:54:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 10:55:38 AM EDT by Burley]
Throttle position sensor, crank position sensor, cam position sensor.

Sometimes they will trigger a code, sometimes they won't.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:03:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 11:06:04 AM EDT by viper5194]
As the others have said, will it stay running if you give it was right after starting it? To me ( in the auto parts sales and repair buisness for 13 years ) It sounds like a idle air control motor. Basicaly it acts like a CHOKE on an old carburated engine, but instead for fuel injection.

When the engine is COLD and started its the job of the idle air control motor to give the engine just enough air at idle to keep it running untill its warmed up. Once warm the IAC helps maintain idle at stop lights, in park, and with the air conditioning on. Its sounds to me your problem is after it sits over night and the engine cools. Once warmed up it will run like normal. Did the check engine light come on at all? Normaly a IAC motor bad would set a trouble code.

The IAC looks like this unit listed in this auction. Link is just for pic...

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Idle-Air-Control-Valve-GM-GMC-CHEVY-JIMMY-TAHOE-YUKON_W0QQitemZ180017948109QQcmdZViewItem

Its mounted on the side of the throttle body, the unit that the air pipe runs too from your air filter box. The IAC is mounted to the side of the throttle body with two small screws and a single electrical plug. In past experiances i have had luck unplugging the IAC to make the car drivable untill repair could be made. Worth a shot.Your only going to see the motor portion of the IAC sticking out of the throttle body. The little valve, spring, and o-ringwill not be visible untill removed ...

As mentionedabove, the throttle positions sense or mass air flow sensorboth could cause similar issues...

Hope this helped at all..
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:09:35 AM EDT

Originally Posted By ThunderStick:

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:
I did notice a slightly funny smell from the exhaust, but it's not like sour gas or anything... almost like it's flooded, but it's fuel injected... So, here we sit again.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem could be? Any help would be great appreciated!

Thanks,
Chad


Could you be more specific about the "slight funny smell"? Was it sweet? (coolant leaking into the engine via bad head gaskets or cracked cylinder heads or a heater core leak) Is the exhaust clear? Blue? Dark cloud? Steamy?

Ny guess would be bad gasoline (i.e. water) from Valero--since that occured just before the problems appeared--but a good possibility is the idle control valve or the Throttle position sensor or an air flow sensor, because the car starts but can't maintain idle.

Any decent auto parts place will let you use a diagnostic sensor so that you may check for fault codes. If it comes up that a sensor may be the problem, swap it out with a new one at the parts shop.


It might smell a little sweet... hard to describe fumes as sweet. There's not much color to the exhaust, but I could see it when my wife cranked it... there wasn't a big cloud or anything. When I look in the exhaust pipe after it sits for a while, it's still full of fumes.

However, it does worry me that the coolant looks just a bit low. I haven't checked it in a while, but I would think they would have filled it when I had the oil changed. And it ran great yesterday...

Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:13:28 AM EDT

Originally Posted By viper5194:
As the others have said, will it stay running if you give it was right after starting it? To me ( in the auto parts sales and repair buisness for 13 years ) It sounds like a idle air control motor. Basicaly it acts like a CHOKE on an old carburated engine, but instead for fuel injection.

When the engine is COLD and started its the job of the idle air control motor to give the engine just enough air at idle to keep it running untill its warmed up. Once warm the IAC helps maintain idle at stop lights, in park, and with the air conditioning on. Its sounds to me your problem is after it sits over night and the engine cools. Once warmed up it will run like normal. Did the check engine light come on at all? Normaly a IAC motor bad would set a trouble code.

The IAC looks like this unit listed in this auction. Link is just for pic...

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Idle-Air-Control-Valve-GM-GMC-CHEVY-JIMMY-TAHOE-YUKON_W0QQitemZ180017948109QQcmdZViewItem

Its mounted on the side of the throttle body, the unit that the air pipe runs too from your air filter box. The IAC is mounted to the side of the throttle body with two small screws and a single electrical plug. In past experiances i have had luck unplugging the IAC to make the car drivable untill repair could be made. Worth a shot.Your only going to see the motor portion of the IAC sticking out of the throttle body. The little valve, spring, and o-ringwill not be visible untill removed ...

As mentionedabove, the throttle positions sense or mass air flow sensorboth could cause similar issues...

Hope this helped at all..


Giving it gas didn't seem to help... it died faster and made a funny noise (not a backfire, but almost like a softer version of one). I'll try unplugging the IAC and see what happens.

Do you know how long it takes the computer to reset when the battery is disconnected? Is it almost instant or does it have to sit a while?

Chad
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:16:55 AM EDT

Originally Posted By viper5194:
As the others have said, will it stay running if you give it was right after starting it? To me ( in the auto parts sales and repair buisness for 13 years ) It sounds like a idle air control motor. Basicaly it acts like a CHOKE on an old carburated engine, but instead for fuel injection.

When the engine is COLD and started its the job of the idle air control motor to give the engine just enough air at idle to keep it running untill its warmed up. Once warm the IAC helps maintain idle at stop lights, in park, and with the air conditioning on. Its sounds to me your problem is after it sits over night and the engine cools. Once warmed up it will run like normal. Did the check engine light come on at all? Normaly a IAC motor bad would set a trouble code.

The IAC looks like this unit listed in this auction. Link is just for pic...

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Idle-Air-Control-Valve-GM-GMC-CHEVY-JIMMY-TAHOE-YUKON_W0QQitemZ180017948109QQcmdZViewItem

Its mounted on the side of the throttle body, the unit that the air pipe runs too from your air filter box. The IAC is mounted to the side of the throttle body with two small screws and a single electrical plug. In past experiances i have had luck unplugging the IAC to make the car drivable untill repair could be made. Worth a shot.Your only going to see the motor portion of the IAC sticking out of the throttle body. The little valve, spring, and o-ringwill not be visible untill removed ...

As mentionedabove, the throttle positions sense or mass air flow sensorboth could cause similar issues...

Hope this helped at all..


My hypothesis too. But could also be a Mass Airflow Sensor. IAC bypasses MAF on some vehicles (sorry, don't know of the 5.7 GM).

Check wires, check connections. I doubt the ECU will trigger a DTC of sufficient priority to trigger a MIL on the dash since the engine dies within seconds. But a code scanner will find it. Some auto parts places rent/loan these.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:19:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 11:20:35 AM EDT by The_Reaper]
It sounds to me as if the computer is intentionally shutting the engine off.

Something is probably throwing a code that could be BAD for the engine,
and the computer is programmed to protect it.

Does the oil pressure and water temp look normal just before it dies?
(does it even have an oil pressure or water temp guage?)

There are dozens of other sensors that could cause the computer to go into
a "protect the engine" mode, and kill the ignition.

You will likely need someone to diagnose it with the handheld computer.
(Autozone would do it for free, if you could get it to one)

Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:21:52 AM EDT
Chad, on a 2000 unhooking the battery will not reset the ecm. Only works on 95 and old models.... 96 and newer use the OBD II system which stores trouble codes untill either the problem goes away and there fixed or they are erased manualy with a scanner. If the engine light does come on you can get it read at most autozones for free, that is if you can get it started to get there. One way to see if its a fuel issue is to spray some starting fluid into the TBI and try starting it. if it doesnt start and run on ether its an ignition problem. if it starts and runs fine on ether and then dies abruptly after the ether is burned up, then you have a fuel delivery issue. Not likely you have any starting fluid around do ya?

id check all wireing connectors at the IAC, throttle postion sensor, mass air flow sensor and see if there tight. As well check ALL vacuum lines, from the PCV, throttle body, and any others you see for leaks of holes. A simple vacuum leak could cause running issue as well...
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:24:49 AM EDT
I have a 1998 Tahoe 350CI and it did the same thing, sorry to tell you but it was the fuel pump. You gotta drop the tank to get to it. The part is expensive and the process is difficult. Initially they thought it was the crank position sensor, turned out to be the fuel pump. But, you can replace the fuel filter first to see if that is it, less expensive and easy. Good luck.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:28:29 AM EDT

Originally Posted By FZ1Steve:
I have a 1998 Tahoe 350CI and it did the same thing, sorry to tell you but it was the fuel pump. You gotta drop the tank to get to it. The part is expensive and the process is difficult. Initially they thought it was the crank position sensor, turned out to be the fuel pump. But, you can replace the fuel filter first to see if that is it, less expensive and easy. Good luck.


Did yours also work sometimes and not others? or once it went out that was it?

Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:32:52 AM EDT

Originally Posted By viper5194:
Chad, on a 2000 unhooking the battery will not reset the ecm. Only works on 95 and old models.... 96 and newer use the OBD II system which stores trouble codes untill either the problem goes away and there fixed or they are erased manualy with a scanner. If the engine light does come on you can get it read at most autozones for free, that is if you can get it started to get there. One way to see if its a fuel issue is to spray some starting fluid into the TBI and try starting it. if it doesnt start and run on ether its an ignition problem. if it starts and runs fine on ether and then dies abruptly after the ether is burned up, then you have a fuel delivery issue. Not likely you have any starting fluid around do ya?

id check all wireing connectors at the IAC, throttle postion sensor, mass air flow sensor and see if there tight. As well check ALL vacuum lines, from the PCV, throttle body, and any others you see for leaks of holes. A simple vacuum leak could cause running issue as well...


Too bad about the ecm. And nope, no starter fluid here. I unplugged and reconnected all the connectors I could find. I'll look at vacuum lines next.

I've been meaning to say, but keep forgetting... the "CHECK ENGINE" light is NOT on.

Thanks for all the ideas... I might just have to break down and call the nearest tow company - ug. Who knows how much that will cost!
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:41:44 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Keith_J:

Originally Posted By viper5194:
As the others have said, will it stay running if you give it was right after starting it? To me ( in the auto parts sales and repair buisness for 13 years ) It sounds like a idle air control motor. Basicaly it acts like a CHOKE on an old carburated engine, but instead for fuel injection.

When the engine is COLD and started its the job of the idle air control motor to give the engine just enough air at idle to keep it running untill its warmed up. Once warm the IAC helps maintain idle at stop lights, in park, and with the air conditioning on. Its sounds to me your problem is after it sits over night and the engine cools. Once warmed up it will run like normal. Did the check engine light come on at all? Normaly a IAC motor bad would set a trouble code.

The IAC looks like this unit listed in this auction. Link is just for pic...

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Idle-Air-Control-Valve-GM-GMC-CHEVY-JIMMY-TAHOE-YUKON_W0QQitemZ180017948109QQcmdZViewItem

Its mounted on the side of the throttle body, the unit that the air pipe runs too from your air filter box. The IAC is mounted to the side of the throttle body with two small screws and a single electrical plug. In past experiances i have had luck unplugging the IAC to make the car drivable untill repair could be made. Worth a shot.Your only going to see the motor portion of the IAC sticking out of the throttle body. The little valve, spring, and o-ringwill not be visible untill removed ...

As mentionedabove, the throttle positions sense or mass air flow sensorboth could cause similar issues...

Hope this helped at all..


My hypothesis too. But could also be a Mass Airflow Sensor. IAC bypasses MAF on some vehicles (sorry, don't know of the 5.7 GM).

Check wires, check connections. I doubt the ECU will trigger a DTC of sufficient priority to trigger a MIL on the dash since the engine dies within seconds. But a code scanner will find it. Some auto parts places rent/loan these.



first thing i thought of was the MAF myself. but honestly, im not too familar with GMs, worked on them for a year or so, but never tried to retain any knowledge on them.(i hated workin on them)
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:48:02 AM EDT
On my 2500 chevrolet, granted it is a diesel, the is an oil pressure swithc the maintains the fuel flow after ignition, the starter runs the fuel pump during ignition. I think my jeep is the same way. Either way, that is what it will do.

My Dodge has a shutdown relay that is controlled by the computer. If you have similiar you could try jumping that, but you might be cautios of what is telling it to disengage in the first place, for that could be catastrophic. I would starter by flipping the Auto-shutdown and fuel pump relays with different relays (like the A/C clutch and starter) and see if that helps. Check all the wiring and fuses. You can try the fuel pressure test port and see what kind of pressure you are getting when it starts and dies, but it would help if you no what it normally is. Where is your fuel pump? If it is not a tank mounted pump, but rather one mounted along the rail (I think the 94's are like that, if I recall) then have some one place there hand on it and see if it runs after 1) when you engage the starter and 2) after you let go of the starter (my 94 had a fuel pump that was week and would give very erratic performace..you could hear it and feel it, but the pressure would be very little to medium at the test port)

Dan
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:48:20 AM EDT
My wife's chevy truck did the same thing. Replaced the fuel filter, drove it 30 miles and seemed ok.

It died on her the next day. Had it towed home. Replaced the fuel pump, and it has been running fine ever since (6 months).

Sorry, but my vote is fuel pump. Only way to verify is with special fuel pressure gauges that attach to the fuel rail, most folks don't havwe these, so it is difficult to check yourself.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:49:12 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:

Originally Posted By viper5194:
Chad, on a 2000 unhooking the battery will not reset the ecm. Only works on 95 and old models.... 96 and newer use the OBD II system which stores trouble codes untill either the problem goes away and there fixed or they are erased manualy with a scanner. If the engine light does come on you can get it read at most autozones for free, that is if you can get it started to get there. One way to see if its a fuel issue is to spray some starting fluid into the TBI and try starting it. if it doesnt start and run on ether its an ignition problem. if it starts and runs fine on ether and then dies abruptly after the ether is burned up, then you have a fuel delivery issue. Not likely you have any starting fluid around do ya?

id check all wireing connectors at the IAC, throttle postion sensor, mass air flow sensor and see if there tight. As well check ALL vacuum lines, from the PCV, throttle body, and any others you see for leaks of holes. A simple vacuum leak could cause running issue as well...


Too bad about the ecm. And nope, no starter fluid here. I unplugged and reconnected all the connectors I could find. I'll look at vacuum lines next.

I've been meaning to say, but keep forgetting... the "CHECK ENGINE" light is NOT on.

Thanks for all the ideas... I might just have to break down and call the nearest tow company - ug. Who knows how much that will cost!


Some car insurance companies cover the cost of towing. Any chance yours does?
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:52:25 AM EDT

Originally Posted By pyro6988:

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:

Originally Posted By viper5194:
Chad, on a 2000 unhooking the battery will not reset the ecm. Only works on 95 and old models.... 96 and newer use the OBD II system which stores trouble codes untill either the problem goes away and there fixed or they are erased manualy with a scanner. If the engine light does come on you can get it read at most autozones for free, that is if you can get it started to get there. One way to see if its a fuel issue is to spray some starting fluid into the TBI and try starting it. if it doesnt start and run on ether its an ignition problem. if it starts and runs fine on ether and then dies abruptly after the ether is burned up, then you have a fuel delivery issue. Not likely you have any starting fluid around do ya?

id check all wireing connectors at the IAC, throttle postion sensor, mass air flow sensor and see if there tight. As well check ALL vacuum lines, from the PCV, throttle body, and any others you see for leaks of holes. A simple vacuum leak could cause running issue as well...


Too bad about the ecm. And nope, no starter fluid here. I unplugged and reconnected all the connectors I could find. I'll look at vacuum lines next.

I've been meaning to say, but keep forgetting... the "CHECK ENGINE" light is NOT on.

Thanks for all the ideas... I might just have to break down and call the nearest tow company - ug. Who knows how much that will cost!


Some car insurance companies cover the cost of towing. Any chance yours does?


I just checked with my dad... he has the same insurance and coverage levels and had his towed... and YES, thankfully, they do.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:53:13 AM EDT

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:

Originally Posted By viper5194:
Chad, on a 2000 unhooking the battery will not reset the ecm. Only works on 95 and old models.... 96 and newer use the OBD II system which stores trouble codes untill either the problem goes away and there fixed or they are erased manualy with a scanner. If the engine light does come on you can get it read at most autozones for free, that is if you can get it started to get there. One way to see if its a fuel issue is to spray some starting fluid into the TBI and try starting it. if it doesnt start and run on ether its an ignition problem. if it starts and runs fine on ether and then dies abruptly after the ether is burned up, then you have a fuel delivery issue. Not likely you have any starting fluid around do ya?

id check all wireing connectors at the IAC, throttle postion sensor, mass air flow sensor and see if there tight. As well check ALL vacuum lines, from the PCV, throttle body, and any others you see for leaks of holes. A simple vacuum leak could cause running issue as well...


Too bad about the ecm. And nope, no starter fluid here. I unplugged and reconnected all the connectors I could find. I'll look at vacuum lines next.

I've been meaning to say, but keep forgetting... the "CHECK ENGINE" light is NOT on.

Thanks for all the ideas... I might just have to break down and call the nearest tow company - ug. Who knows how much that will cost!


I am going to call my brother-in-law and a friend that live in Harrison, maybe they know someone in the area that can help you out, I will IM you so I can get your # and location.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 11:54:05 AM EDT
You're not far from me. Did you get hit with a turd flaoter Sat night? Could be that a mouse or rat was trying to seek shelter and might could've had a snack on a vac line or sensor wire. Happened to me earlier this year, and I drive my truck everyday, even have three dogs and two cats in the yard, and the little bastard cost me $181.00. You probably drove to Harrison, there's some fellow Arfcommers there. I think Shadow is going to hook you up with a contact.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 12:01:32 PM EDT
You need two things to make an IC engine run. Fuel & Fire.

FWIW, the failure sounds alot like a fuel pump failure, for some odd reason they go intermittent like that on GM.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 12:02:04 PM EDT
Sounds like it could be vapor lock to me, which I guess you could still label as a "fuel-related" issue. Google "vapor lock" for more info. If not vapor lock, I am still leaning towards it being something fuel related, a bad crank angle/crankshaft sensor will usually keep the engine from starting at all so I don't think that is it.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 12:11:49 PM EDT
UPDATE: It started. I didn't do anything different... just went out at exactly 3:00 and tried it... and it started. It was the around the same time yesterday that it started after not working earlier in the day. Is that strange or what?

Well... I guess I'm going to try to drive it to civilization and see if I can get it looked at.

Thanks again for all the help and I'll try to update y'all if I find out what the problem is/was.

Chad
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 1:39:07 PM EDT
Have we pulled #1 spark plug yet? Might at least tell us whether we are going rich or lean here and that can weed a lot of options out.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 1:43:41 PM EDT
I've replaced in-tank fuel pumps with external electric ones with no problem. No need to drop the tank. They just sound funny when you first turn the key on.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 5:00:59 PM EDT
Update? Is it fixed?
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 5:13:46 PM EDT
Sheesh, just read this and FUEL PUMP screamed at me. Some of our 5.7 chebby vans at work have had 8!!!! pumps so far. Several died after only a few weeks. Yes they were "Goodwrench" pumps BTW.

I hope, after it started, he drove it somewhere to get it looked at.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 6:37:57 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ShadowEnt:
Update? Is it fixed?


Just sent you an IM.

THANK YOU so much for the help. I've always liked this website, but today I saw first hand why this place is so great. It was really nice having someone check up on us to make sure we made it somewhere to have the truck looked at.


Everyone else:
Thanks again for the help. We made it to Harrison, AR. The truck ran great the whole time. The mechanic looked it over and couldn't find anything wrong. The only error codes that showed up were the ones I triggered when I tried by-passing sensors to see if I could trick it into starting (as advised earlier in the thread). Those error codes weren't listed as current. The only current one was the fuel gauge sensor, which has been acting up for a long time... and wouldn't cause this problem anyway. We shut it off and cranked several times and it worked fine.

This is our last night in the cabin... I'll try cranking it in the morning. If it starts, I'll just leave it running until we're ready to leave. I'll give y'all one more update when we get home.

Chad
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 6:41:28 PM EDT

Originally Posted By Hedonist:
I've replaced in-tank fuel pumps with external electric ones with no problem. No need to drop the tank. They just sound funny when you first turn the key on.


How's that work exactly? I don't drive this truck everyday (my wife and I ride to work together in her car) so I might be willing to attempt fixing it myself. My dad just had the pump replaced on his 98 Z71... it was over $700.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 6:43:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 6:44:01 PM EDT by CR_OPSO]

Originally Posted By Lycanthrope:
Have we pulled #1 spark plug yet? Might at least tell us whether we are going rich or lean here and that can weed a lot of options out.


When (if) I get it home, I'll look at the plugs. All I have right now is a basic tool set (screwdrivers, cresent wrench, and a small socket set).
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 6:52:21 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/22/2006 6:54:48 PM EDT by IceDiver]

Originally Posted By CR_OPSO:

Originally Posted By Hedonist:
I've replaced in-tank fuel pumps with external electric ones with no problem. No need to drop the tank. They just sound funny when you first turn the key on.


How's that work exactly? I don't drive this truck everyday (my wife and I ride to work together in her car) so I might be willing to attempt fixing it myself. My dad just had the pump replaced on his 98 Z71... it was over $700.


I don't hink it would be that "easy" in your application. The 5.7 should be running around 60PSI fuel pressure if I recall correctly. Not many external pumps readily available for that application that I am aware of.


Edited to add - Cost on your fuel pump is around $250-300 for the pump. It is a whole sending unit with fuel lvl, pump ore installed. Provided your fuel lines come apart easily (plastic lines), really shouldn't be more than a couple hour job.
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