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Posted: 8/3/2014 8:51:49 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/3/2014 8:52:09 PM EST by GIVEMEMYTOYS]
Buddy that owns Texas Certified motors here in town called me to his business yesterday and told me this was mine and he wanted me to have it.
So I got it home and looked it over, ordered all new tie rod ends, adjusting sleeve, drag link and some electrical stuff to get some things in order.

It has a 360cui motor and runs fairly well. Gonna slowly give it some repairs and love over the winter months.







Link Posted: 8/3/2014 9:13:33 PM EST
Cool truck.

Any trucks from 1976 around here are rotted up to the door handles.
Link Posted: 8/4/2014 9:15:45 PM EST
The 360 is a torque monster, though not so good on gas as you can imagine. If it's an automatic make sure your foot is FIRMLY on the brake pedal while shifting, otherwise you'll lurch backward a couple feet while passing through reverse LOL.
Link Posted: 8/4/2014 9:38:37 PM EST
Dose have a load of torque. Once the tires start to spin they just keep spinning.
It has a strange powerband, not quite like a big block but more than a small block.
It's been a while since I owned anything but a Honda with a four banger.
Link Posted: 9/1/2014 3:12:15 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/1/2014 3:27:55 PM EST by GIVEMEMYTOYS]
Update.
After replacing the front I-beam axle bushings, radius arm bushings, drag link,tie rod ends and king pins the truck drives like ne.
Also installed 2 1/2' duel exhaust with Jegs deep tone chambered mufflers and an H-pipe and a set of Headman 3' collector headers.

It woke the engine up some but was still running rough, so I did a tune up on it and found someone had installed a Petronix distributor and had the timing way off.
It was about 30* BTC with the carb adjusted to make it run that way. Rolled the timing back to 12* and adjusted it to run smooth.
Holy crap it woke the thing up. It ran way to good to be a 360CI, so I did some checking on the casting #'s on the block and checked the stroke of the crank. The stroke turned out to be almost 4.00".


The casting numbers on the block confirmed the best case scenario........ Yep it is a 1968 428 interceptor.



Here is a short cellphone vid of it running.


Link Posted: 9/1/2014 4:30:49 PM EST
SWEET!!!


I'm going to give you a little advice that if you'll heed will net you the single biggest HP, drivability and economy gain you can imagine.

Buy yourself a wideband O2 gauge and tune by it!
Link Posted: 9/1/2014 9:02:58 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/1/2014 9:18:47 PM EST by Interceptor_Knight]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
The casting numbers on the block confirmed the best case scenario........ Yep it is a 1968 428 interceptor.
View Quote


Nice score!!
The odds are pretty good that you do have a 428 but the block casting numbers will not tell you definitively what engine you have. 390-428 used the same casting numbers. All you know for certain by checking stroke is that you have a 428 crank. If it is a C8ME-A block, then it is a good chance that it is a 428 block. There was no "Police Interceptor" specific block. You could just as easily have a 428CJ short block. What are the head casting numbers? They are between the center 2 exhaust ports. Which intake does it have? There were 3 different cast iron intakes used on those engines.
You also do not know what year the engine actually is by the block casting numbers. The actual casting date code is below the oil filter adapter as viewed from below. It will be in a number/letter/number format. (Year, Month, Date)
Link Posted: 9/1/2014 11:03:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/1/2014 11:08:05 PM EST by GIVEMEMYTOYS]
Date code 7E10





Block code.C6ME-A C6ME-A


'66 - '70/ 428 c.i.d.


428-4V, Police Interceptor, May Or May Not Be Drilled For Hydraulic Lifters… Look For Oil Galleries


Link Posted: 9/2/2014 1:01:35 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/2/2014 1:03:43 AM EST by blackjack33]
Nice truck!

Check out this site
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 1:02:53 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Krochus:
SWEET!!!


I'm going to give you a little advice that if you'll heed will net you the single biggest HP, drivability and economy gain you can imagine.

Buy yourself a wideband O2 gauge and tune by it!
View Quote


Which brand do you recommend? I've been looking at the AEM kit.
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 6:21:35 AM EST
Send those wheels back to the 90's!
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 10:50:24 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By The_Emu:
Send those wheels back to the 90's!
View Quote

I'm keeping them. I have a nice newer set that will fit this truck.

But I wanna run it retro the way it is.



Link Posted: 9/2/2014 11:14:03 AM EST
Congrats OP, the FE motors are some of the most under rated motors of all time. Great toy, now if gas was 35¢ a gallon, it would make a great daily driver!
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 1:13:00 PM EST
More than likely it is a 390.
C6ME-A is a common casting number used on FE blocks.
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 2:10:33 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By blackjack33:



Which brand do you recommend? I've been looking at the AEM kit.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By blackjack33:
Originally Posted By Krochus:
SWEET!!!


I'm going to give you a little advice that if you'll heed will net you the single biggest HP, drivability and economy gain you can imagine.

Buy yourself a wideband O2 gauge and tune by it!



Which brand do you recommend? I've been looking at the AEM kit.


I had the AEM and thought very highly of it.
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 2:15:44 PM EST
From diyford.com:

The "Drill Bit Test”
This one test is the single best way to quickly identify an assembled FE block, and credit for it goes to FordFE.com forum member David "Shoe” Schouweiler. You only need the simplest of measuring tools– some drill bits. The following is paraphrased from several of Dave’s responses to block identification questions posed on the forum.

Remove the center freeze plug from the side of the engine block. Using common drill bits, then slip the shank portion of the largest possible bit in between the center cylinder cores through the freeze plug opening. The size of this largest drill bit indicates which water-jacket core was used to cast the block.

If you can only fit a 1/8- or 9/64- inch drill bit shank between the cylinders at the largest gap position on the block, and a 10/64-inch bit doesn’t fit anywhere, then they are 427 water jackets.

406/428/DIF361/DIF391 blocks allow a 13/64-inch drill bit shankto fit into the gap at the largest position.

MCC361FT/MCC391FT blocks (MCC = "mirror 105” marking) allow a 14/64-inch bit to fit between the cores.

Regular 360/390/410 blocks hang around the 17/64- to 19/64-inch water-jacket space at the largest position on the block.

These are only approximations, but tend to be close.
Even if you do have the good jackets, be sure to sonic map the cylinders before boring. If the core has shifted, it could cause problems. It is not at all unusual for FE engines to have considerable core shift. And the oft-raced and abused 427 engines seem to have some of the thinnest cylinders. A block with core shift has cylinders that are thicker on one side and thinner on the other. This can leave the cylinder wall too thin after machining, compromising strength and piston-ring seal.
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 2:46:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/2/2014 2:49:51 PM EST by Interceptor_Knight]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gatkeper:
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gatkeper:
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number

330 was a FT engine and not a FE.


Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Block code.C6ME-A C6ME-A


'66 - '70/ 428 c.i.d.


428-4V, Police Interceptor, May Or May Not Be Drilled For Hydraulic Lifters… Look For Oil Galleries


Where are you quoting this from? That block was most likely drilled for hydraulic lifters. C6ME-A could be a 352, 390, a 410 or a 428 block. The fact that you have a 428 stroke crank would likely make your engine either a 410 or a 428. The date code means that the block is a May 1967 cast block which would make it 1967 model year. What heads and intake do you have?
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 7:20:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/20/2014 1:10:20 PM EST by GIVEMEMYTOYS]

Block code.C6ME-A
Pulled the left/pass side head off to look a the intake / exhaust valve and lifter on cyl #4 had a rattle in it. turned out to be a bent push rod and bad valve guide. pulled the headand while I was in there I checked the bore and it was 4.162 which tells me it is a 428 bored ,030 over. Stroke is just a tad under 4.00"

Seems to be a fairly recent rebuild, just look at the rockers and oil galleys in the pick before I pulled the head,






Link Posted: 9/2/2014 10:36:27 PM EST
What heads and intake does the engine have?
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 10:56:31 PM EST
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.



Link Posted: 9/3/2014 8:20:05 AM EST
I'd make it factory again, body wise...

Sweet ass truck.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 8:32:30 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.



View Quote
Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight.


Link Posted: 9/3/2014 12:45:17 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:

330 was a FT engine and not a FE.


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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
Originally Posted By gatkeper:
Anything from a 330- 428 can have that number

330 was a FT engine and not a FE.




FT/FE are all related, forged cranks in FT and larger front snout on crank. Cheap forged crank up grade was to use the FT crank after cutting the snout down
And ill stand by that
C6ME-a can be 330, 352, 359,360, 361,389, 390, 391,410 or 428
Casting numbers on FE's basically mean squat
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 1:00:58 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By gatkeper:
FT/FE are all related, forged cranks in FT and larger front snout on crank. Cheap forged crank up grade was to use the FT crank after cutting the snout down
And ill stand by that
C6ME-a can be 330, 352, 359,360, 361,389, 390, 391,410 or 428
Casting numbers on FE's basically mean squat
View Quote


The extensive machine work and balancing does not make the FT a "cheap" option these days unless you (or a buddy willing to work for beer) own or are employed by a machine shop. The fact that it is obviously a FE engine configuration would make it statistically unlikely to be a FT block although not completely unheard of with a nearly 50 year old engine block. All which really needs to be done with the bare block is to install the distributor shaft bushing in the block for the FE distributor shaft size. This bushing was factory installed in the MD version of 330FT engines. If you have a bare block, that (distributor shaft passage size) is the quickest method of identifying a FT vs FE block.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 2:06:34 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2014 2:07:06 PM EST by Krochus]
What a logistical nightmare!

Just how many different v8 engines did ford feel they needed to have between 330 and 360 cubic inches?
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 2:47:56 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:


The extensive machine work and balancing does not make the FT a "cheap" option these days unless you (or a buddy willing to work for beer) own or are employed by a machine shop. The fact that it is obviously a FE engine configuration would make it statistically unlikely to be a FT block although not completely unheard of with a nearly 50 year old engine block. All which really needs to be done with the bare block is to install the distributor shaft bushing in the block for the FE distributor shaft size. This bushing was factory installed in the MD version of 330FT engines. If you have a bare block, that (distributor shaft passage size) is the quickest method of identifying a FT vs FE block.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
Originally Posted By gatkeper:
FT/FE are all related, forged cranks in FT and larger front snout on crank. Cheap forged crank up grade was to use the FT crank after cutting the snout down
And ill stand by that
C6ME-a can be 330, 352, 359,360, 361,389, 390, 391,410 or 428
Casting numbers on FE's basically mean squat


The extensive machine work and balancing does not make the FT a "cheap" option these days unless you (or a buddy willing to work for beer) own or are employed by a machine shop. The fact that it is obviously a FE engine configuration would make it statistically unlikely to be a FT block although not completely unheard of with a nearly 50 year old engine block. All which really needs to be done with the bare block is to install the distributor shaft bushing in the block for the FE distributor shaft size. This bushing was factory installed in the MD version of 330FT engines. If you have a bare block, that (distributor shaft passage size) is the quickest method of identifying a FT vs FE block.

Key word..."was"
Too many options today to use an FT crank. And never said it was a FT motor only stating the Fact that casting numbers on FE's can belong to a wide range of engines
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 3:52:38 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Krochus:
What a logistical nightmare!

Just how many different v8 engines did ford feel they needed to have between 330 and 360 cubic inches?
View Quote

It is actually straight forward. You did not get a 330 unless you had a HD truck (F600, etc). The same goes for the 361/391 motors. Your typical F150 got a 352, 360 or 390 depending on what year it was. The 360 pretty much replaced the 352 as it was essentially a 390 block with a 352 crank.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 4:46:13 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:

It is actually straight forward. You did not get a 330 unless you had a HD truck (F600, etc). The same goes for the 361/391 motors. Your typical F150 got a 352, 360 or 390 depending on what year it was. The 360 pretty much replaced the 352 as it was essentially a 390 block with a 352 crank.
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Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
Originally Posted By Krochus:
What a logistical nightmare!

Just how many different v8 engines did ford feel they needed to have between 330 and 360 cubic inches?

It is actually straight forward. You did not get a 330 unless you had a HD truck (F600, etc). The same goes for the 361/391 motors. Your typical F150 got a 352, 360 or 390 depending on what year it was. The 360 pretty much replaced the 352 as it was essentially a 390 block with a 352 crank.


Don't forget about the y-block and any one of the half dozen 351 iterations. I never understood Ford's truck powertrain schizophrenia from the 60's to 80's
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 5:16:04 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2014 5:16:21 PM EST by Interceptor_Knight]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Krochus:
Don't forget about the y-block and any one of the half dozen 351 iterations. I never understood Ford's truck powertrain schizophrenia from the 60's to 80's
View Quote

You make it sound like they were all options concurrently..

The Y block was replaced by the FE in the early 1960s. Ford only ever used the 351W and 351M in trucks. Not quite 1/2 dozen..
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 5:26:49 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:

You make it sound like they were all options concurrently..

The Y block was replaced by the FE in the early 1960s. Ford only ever used the 351W and 351M in trucks. Not quite 1/2 dozen..
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Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
Originally Posted By Krochus:
Don't forget about the y-block and any one of the half dozen 351 iterations. I never understood Ford's truck powertrain schizophrenia from the 60's to 80's

You make it sound like they were all options concurrently..

The Y block was replaced by the FE in the early 1960s. Ford only ever used the 351W and 351M in trucks. Not quite 1/2 dozen..


It's not so much that as it appeared as though every couple three years ford would decide the truck engines were all wrong and change it up to a completely different architecture. And of course it would have been too simple on the guy servicing the thing years later to have made sure all the transmissions were the same bellhousing pattern.

In tucks
Iirc dodge had 2 engines between 330 and 360
GM one two if you count the olds diesel
International one

Ford 6?
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 5:52:50 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2014 5:53:57 PM EST by Interceptor_Knight]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Krochus:
It's not so much that as it appeared as though every couple three years ford would decide the truck engines were all wrong and change it up to a completely different architecture.
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Originally Posted By Krochus:
It's not so much that as it appeared as though every couple three years ford would decide the truck engines were all wrong and change it up to a completely different architecture.

Ford ran the 351W in trucks for almost 30 years, the 302 for longer and the 460 for about 25ish. What are you talking about???


Originally Posted By Krochus:
And of course it would have been too simple on the guy servicing the thing years later to have made sure all the transmissions were the same bellhousing pattern. .


Ford had only 3 concurrently for about 10 years and then only 2 from there on out.

Originally Posted By Krochus:
In tucks
Iirc dodge had 2 engines between 330 and 360
GM one two if you count the olds diesel
International one Ford 6?


In "passenger"/light duty trucks, from the mid 1960s into the late 1990s, Ford only had 4, never more than 3 concurrently and 2 of those 4 only had a couple of year and a few years life span so it is not worth complaining about as that brings it down to 2 for nearly that entire 30 years.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 6:03:46 PM EST
Lotsa potential there
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 6:04:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2014 6:06:42 PM EST by Krochus]
Just answer the original question.

Between 1960 and 1980 how many v8's between 330 and 360 ci did ford use in f series light duty trucks? And how many trans bellhousing patterns span this 20 year range?

Don't you think that having even extra ONE oddball trans pattern is kinda retarded? Why didn't they do like everyone else and standardize?
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 6:53:13 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Krochus:
Just answer the original question.

Between 1960 and 1980 how many v8's between 330 and 360 ci did ford use in f series light duty trucks? And how many trans bellhousing patterns span this 20 year range?

Don't you think that having even extra ONE oddball trans pattern is kinda retarded? Why didn't they do like everyone else and standardize?
View Quote



Small block, FE big block and M pattern / 385 are all I remember.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 7:06:11 PM EST
[Last Edit: 9/3/2014 7:10:00 PM EST by Interceptor_Knight]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Krochus:
Just answer the original question.

Between 1960 and 1980 how many v8's between 330 and 360 ci did ford use in f series light duty trucks? And how many trans bellhousing patterns span this 20 year range?

Don't you think that having even extra ONE oddball trans pattern is kinda retarded? Why didn't they do like everyone else and standardize?
View Quote


I already answered your question. There were only 4 different V8 engines between those 2 CID limits during that 20 year period. None of the transmission patterns can really be considered "oddball". Ford simply chose to make their "small block" families small and their "big block" families big. Take the "small block" family for instance. Ford used the same bellhousing pattern on 7 distinctly different engines (221 to 351 CID) during the time period from 1961 to about 1997.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 7:06:13 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Firefinder37:
Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg

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Originally Posted By Firefinder37:
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.



Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg



Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.


Link Posted: 9/3/2014 7:15:48 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:


Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.


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Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Originally Posted By Firefinder37:
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.



Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg



Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.





Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 7:34:13 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Hillbilly69:



Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection.
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Originally Posted By Hillbilly69:
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Originally Posted By Firefinder37:
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.



Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg



Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.





Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection.


Tag on the rear end says 3:00 gear ratio and code says 28 splines if it is original to the truck.
Link Posted: 9/4/2014 4:04:09 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:


Tag on the rear end says 3:00 gear ratio and code says 28 splines if it is original to the truck.
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Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Originally Posted By Hillbilly69:
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Originally Posted By Firefinder37:
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Dude said he pulled the heads and intake off this block to put on his race car, He reworked a set of D2TEAA heads and a port matched intake for this (his shop truck.)
Might be looking for an upgrade to these in the future.



Depending on how deep your pockets are, you can't go wrong with a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads and matching intake. A nice plus to this is you lose about 90 pounds of weight.

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab326/jkw3637/1109cct-20-o-360-ford-engine-rebuildfe-motor.jpg



Got about $2,200.00 to put in and another $1,000. forthe drive line rear end to back it up.





Rear end shouldn't need much. Check it for 31 spline axles, decent center, 3.50 gear. Perfection.


Tag on the rear end says 3:00 gear ratio and code says 28 splines if it is original to the truck.



That'll be good for gas mileage but if you're planning on doing much showing off or towing, use the setup I listed above with a posi of some sort, 3.50 and 31 spline axles for peace of mind.
Link Posted: 9/4/2014 7:46:36 AM EST
It has a posiloc or limited in it now, cuz it is hard to make it break loose one tire.
Long double black marks and even second gear chirps leave dual stripes .


Link Posted: 9/9/2014 9:58:40 AM EST
[Last Edit: 9/9/2014 7:59:40 PM EST by Firefinder37]
If you go the route, like I did, Edelbrock heads, intake, carb and cam, you might as well get a set of Harland Sharp rockers. Plan on buying new motor mounts as well, ask me how I know.


Link Posted: 9/21/2014 9:53:47 PM EST
Update/ 1stround of parts ordered.
Gonna pull the heads off and port them a bit and get the machine shop to install larger valves, guides and seats.
Went with a 600cfm carb to get better low end response. I'm wanting torque over horsepower.

Summit Racing


Summit Racing Equipment


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EDL-7105
Edelbrock 7105 - Edelbrock Performer RPM FE Intake Manifolds

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EDL-7224
Edelbrock 7224 - Edelbrock Intake Manifold Gaskets

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Edelbrock 8507 - Edelbrock Intake Manifold Bolt Kits

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Edelbrock 8710 - Edelbrock Carburetor Spacers

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Summit Racing SUM-111434 - Summit Racing® Copper Exhaust Gaskets

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Summit Racing SUM-220104-B - Summit Racing® Dual Feed Fuel Lines

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$4.97

SUM-G1484N
Summit Racing SUM-G1484N - Summit Racing® Pipe Plug Kits

Ready to Ship

$10.97

1

$10.97

SUM-M08070
Summit Racing SUM-M08070 - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetor Throttle Lever Extensions

Ready to Ship

$8.25

1

$8.25

SUM-M08600VS
Summit Racing SUM-M08600VS - Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetors

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$279.97

1

$279.97
Part Subtotal $840.92
Order Subtotal $840.92
Ending Balance $840.92

Link Posted: 9/29/2014 10:42:36 PM EST
Ordered a set of Heads with 2.090 Intake Valves and1.650 Exhaust Valves.
Lunati Voodoo cam,lifters and timing set, 2,400 rpm stall converter and a bunch more parts. So it looks like the motor is coming out in a few weeks.
Looking at my rocker arm choices for the lift and spring pressures it will be running. Think I'm gonna go with the Carol Shelby engine company FE set.
Link Posted: 9/30/2014 11:19:00 AM EST
When I built mine the Carol Shelby parts weren't available yet. You will have a certified stump puller when your done. now if gasoline was just 31 cents a gallon again...
Link Posted: 10/15/2014 7:45:23 AM EST
Well, I have all the parts now.
Looks like I'm gonna pull the engine this Sunday and get this party started.
Now Carter fuel pump and 3/8 fuel line going in also.
I'll post some pics if when we get started.
Link Posted: 11/29/2014 1:18:47 PM EST
Small update.
Well this thing has turned into a real project.
I'm about $4,500.00 deep in parts now, waiting on the machine shop to finish their work.
Link Posted: 11/29/2014 1:49:48 PM EST
Keep us updated, my first "car" was a '69 F100 long bed. Mine had. 302 and three on the tree.
Link Posted: 11/29/2014 10:38:03 PM EST
[Last Edit: 11/29/2014 10:54:04 PM EST by GIVEMEMYTOYS]
Engine removal.




New intake and carb.



Rebuilt heads with cobrajet valves.





New three core radiator.




Headers blasted,painted and baked to 650*




Removed old leaf springs and replaced with x-heavy camper special springs.






Installed 4.5" lowering kit and leafs in the rear. This pic was taken just after I lowered it off the lift. It sits about 1" lower than in the pic.





New heater core.


Link Posted: 12/1/2014 10:08:13 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By GIVEMEMYTOYS:
Well, I have all the parts now.
Looks like I'm gonna pull the engine this Sunday and get this party started.
Now Carter fuel pump and 3/8 fuel line going in also.
I'll post some pics if when we get started.
View Quote


If you are replacing the fuel lines, go to 1/2" feed to pump, and 1/2" to the carb. No mater what mods you make in the future you will have enough fuel supply to feed the motor.

If you are mechanically inclined, also replace the in tank fuel pick up with a 1/2" line.
Link Posted: 12/1/2014 2:22:11 PM EST
What did they charge you for those heads? Did they blend the bowls for the larger valves? It looks like they left the small intake and low exhaust ports alone. You may want to check your header port alignment.
Link Posted: 12/1/2014 7:58:18 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Interceptor_Knight:
What did they charge you for those heads?
Did they blend the bowls for the larger valves? It looks like they left the small intake and low exhaust ports alone. You may want to check your header port alignment.
View Quote



$700.00 for the heads, three angle with SS cobra jet valves and the correct valve springs for my cam.
Bowls were blended some, not as much as I would like. Might do a little more work on them before they go on the motor.

Headers fit well. These are basically the same casting as the heads that were on the motor.
The small intake ports still flow pretty well and I am shooting more for torque not so much horsepower.

I just want a solid, strong street motor. I had to reel myself in on some things I wanted to do to it because I wanna drive this truck for a few years and have a truck I can use as a truck .
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