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11/20/2019 5:07:11 PM
Posted: 5/7/2003 9:29:40 AM EST
My 2001 Chevy Z71 is in need of a complete brake job, front and rear, with 28,000 miles. The estimated bill exceeds $800 (you read that right). Unbelievable. This is from a mechanic I know and trust. I called a local dealer's service desk. New brakes are designed to last about 30,000 miles. Pricing is in proper range. Obviously not under warranty. Any other truck owners experiencing the same thing? Is Ford better in this regard? Might be time to find an older 1980s vintage truck. Screw this new crap.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:31:27 AM EST
I thought Chevys were supposed to be 'dependable and long lasting'...
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:35:07 AM EST
I [i]really[/i] needed to hear that. My 1999 Ranger 4x4 has 42,000 on the clock, and is due for brakes. Gee, thanks.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:40:27 AM EST
I have a Durango with 71k miles. I'm just now needing to replace the pads and grind the rotors... [;)]
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:40:59 AM EST
$800!! I just replaced pads and shoes on my '01 Ram for about $65, and that's using graphite pads in front. (33,000) The OEM parts weren't worn out, just glazed. Didn't have to change out any rotors or drums.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:41:28 AM EST
Is doing it yourself out of the question? A lot of times, IMHO, mechanics (as well as the dealer) repair stuff that really doesn't need to be repaired, just for good measure. Now, I'm not saying that they're dishonest. However, I do beleive that a lot of stuff is not really needed that they will go ahead and charge for. For instance; the rotors probably do not need to be turned, the brake fluid probably does not need to be changed, and the brake lines probably do not need to be bled. Most likeyly, as these are the parts that usually wear out the fastest, the pads need to be replaced. Cheap and easy to do yourself. However, it's extrememly rare for the front and back brakes to need replaced at the same time, the first time. The back brakes are usually supposed to last twice as long as the fronts, since the front does most of the braking (due to weight transfer under braking). HTH.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:42:06 AM EST
Originally Posted By Waldo: $800!! I just replaced pads and shoes on my '01 Ram for about $65, and that's using graphite pads in front. (33,000) The OEM parts weren't worn out, just glazed. Didn't have to change out any rotors or drums.
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Thats the trick you have to do the brake job, before your into the rotors.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 9:44:18 AM EST
Hmmm...the GF drives a 2000 GMC Jimmy 2WD and has 71K+ miles on it, and the brakes don't make a sound. MY question is, hers has discs all the way around and ABS, is it possible-when needed-to change out the pads without any special "computer" equipment? I mean, geez, disc brakes are A BREEZE to change-why the hell even go to a mechanic for the work?
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:02:46 AM EST
28,000 miles?! Could it be your driving habits? Ive got a 98 toyota truck with 68,000 miles. I still haven't had to do anything to the brakes. Other trucks I've had averaged ~80,000 miles between brake jobs.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:16:01 AM EST
Originally Posted By cyanide: That's the trick you have to do the brake job, before your into the rotors.
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Yep, that's also why they give you a maintenance schedule in your owners manual. The last thing it says at almost every entry is "inspect brake pads and linings". I'm sure it instructs you to inspect them at 12,000 miles or so and a few more times before you get to 30K. Pads and shoes are cheap, the rest of the parts are not. If I didn't check my wifes truck from time to time, I'm sure she wouldn't tell me of any brake problems until someone stopped her and told her there were sparks flying from all four wheels when she stopped [BD]
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:16:18 AM EST
heh. We do have a lot of hills, but I tend to use the transmission/engine for braking rather than riding the brakes. Actually, salt damage/corrosion is being partially blamed. The GM service manager said 30K is the expected service life. I will take it to another local dealer for another checkup. I never heard any metallic "metal on metal" grinding, and was informed by my mechanic during an annual inspection that the brakes were in need of repair. Any other guys with similarly aged trucks?
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:26:50 AM EST
the disc brakes should be cake to replace. the pads will prob cost about 70 bucks total, an if you actually want to replace the rotors you can expext 50+ bucks apeice depending on the quality and where you get them
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:29:02 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:36:39 AM EST
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:43:18 AM EST
[Last Edit: 5/7/2003 10:43:58 AM EST by cduarte]
Originally Posted By TomJefferson: I can't imagine what would cost $800. Surely your calipers are still good after only 28K miles. Rotors should be around $150 max for four and pads about $70. Replacing everything should be no more than 3 hours at $50/hr or $150. Sounds like to me you are about a good $300 on the high side. Wish you were here, I'd check it and do it for you. Ever since my wife took out a pole because joe mechanic at House of Brakes broke the bleed nipple off and didn't replace it, I have always done my own brakes. They haven't changed all that much.
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what he said. I can't speak for chevys, but I know late model Fords have "hat" type rotors which are typically very cheap. I did the brakes on my '95 Crown Vic last year, the rotors cost me $100 and the pads cost $80, the labor was free and it took me 2 hours to do all 4 wheels. I know that the late model f-150s have the same type rotors, hopefully chevy would be the same and guess what, no special hub tool is necessary like with the old 4x4s. It's really an easy job. do it yourself and save money for more guns, that's what I do.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 11:14:02 AM EST
My 99 Z71 has 47K on the clock and the brakes are fine.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 11:17:00 AM EST
Dude, I don't know if I would use that mech any more if he's quoting $800 for a brake job. I have a 99 F150, and my OEM pads made 71,000 miles, and cost me $70 bucks for ceramic replacements and an hour of my time to install them in my driveway. If you have 28,000 miles, and your front pads are worn, replace them, and don't sweat the rears just yet. As noted above, they should go about twice as long as the fronts. If you have to take it anywhere, take it to a brake shop, and not your normal mechanic. Check the Sunday paper, or whatever day the weekly coupon section comes in the paper, and you can usually find coupons for the brake shops in there. It's still going to be cheaper to do it yourself.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 11:35:18 AM EST
I just did the fronts on the wifes 3/4 ton 4x4 suburban. I had to replace one rotor and two pads. Material cost about $140. Figure you about $200 or so if you need two new rotors and pads (less for the 1/2 ton) It took me about a couple hours, mainly because of the bearing and abs on the rotor. If it is just the pads it should about an hour and you might spend 60 bucks or so in material If you ever have to do the drums in the back use the other side as a reference. $800 doesn't seem fair.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 12:06:58 PM EST
Are the rotors pressed on. Is it 4x4 Do you have 4 wheel anti lock brakes
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 3:10:19 PM EST
Did your mechanic give you an breakdown of the estimate? It sounds like he wants to do EVERYTHING. Unless the rotors are bad, I don't see why he wants to replace all the components.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 3:11:31 PM EST
Did your mechanic give you an breakdown of the estimate? It sounds like he wants to do EVERYTHING. Unless the rotors are bad, I don't see why he wants to replace all the components.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 7:17:30 PM EST
Ask your mechanic for a detailed written estimate of parts and labor, scan it or get it on a disc and post it back here so we can tell you if he's on the up and up.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 7:27:04 PM EST
I have the same year and model, 2001 z-71 but with 43,000 miles and I just had my brakes done. I usually do it myself but I am way too busy and I am driving out of town this weekend. Anyway, I took it to Midas and it only cost me $165 for new pads and rotor turning, they turn them while still on the truck. I was in and out in less than an hour and I have a life time guarantee. I checked NAPA before taking it in and the rotor turning was $12 each and pads ran about $70 for their lifetime warranted pads. I wonder what else was wrong? Were they replacing the rotors, and calipers? If so, I guess it would be pretty damn high.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 7:38:52 PM EST
Chevy full size trucks use hat type rotors...no messing with bearings or anything like that. Remove two bolts, pull off the caliper, hang it with wire to the upper a-arm so it doesn't hang by the brake line and damage it. The rotor slides right off the hub, the new ones slide right on. Unclip the old pads, use a wood block and c-clamp to press the pistons back in, clip in new pads. New rotors are about $45 at Farm and Fleet, and pads $28 a set for all four fronts. On my '92, the rotors didn't hold up to winter salt and the cooling fins rusted away until one rotor collapsed. Turns out there was a recall on them for this exact problem. You need to check if there is a recall on rotors. I have heard there are a few recalls on various models (rumored anyway) and GM seems to be having trouble in this area. My 99 Alero (same as Grand Am) has crappy front brakes and they need replacing at 46,000. Your mechanic is raping you. Bend over and smile!
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 8:00:34 PM EST
45000 on '03 Chevy 2500HD. Over a ton in the bed 24/7 and brakes are fine. Probably need pads in another 15000 or so. Performance Fricton makes good ones . WAY under $100 set!! Anybody that can't replace pads deserves to pay through the nose - that easy. GM rotors are too thin and light. Part of the weight program. Buy Wagner or Chinese - they are thicker, heavier and therefore better. Some mechanics are stuk on the "turn rotors, replace calipers" BS. Repair or replace what is in need and continue to use the rest. I no longer turn rotors - just replace them as the aftermarket ones are much better and the $12 turn fee goes toward that purchase. If they are not scored or have hard spots (pulsation) why do anything to them? IMHO $800 is nutz!
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 8:21:50 PM EST
This price would HAVE to be with rotors in order to not be outrageous. Still high even with new rotors IMHO. I don't know about road salts - I live in Texas. As for driving habits, you don't have to drive like a bat out of hell to be hard on a set of brakes. One of the main causes of rotor warpage and thus wear is inconsistent cooling of the entire area of the rotor. If you're a person (not directed at you, SP10 - directed at anybody) who likes to "brake late", you are giving your breaks hell. IOW if you're one of those folks who stays on the gas until you're 100 yds from when you need to stop, then you immediately go from gas to brake, you're a "late braker". Your brakes work hard and get hot as hell if they are asked to stop your vehicle in a short amount of time - increased speed amplifies this. So you've come to a stop and you're sitting there at the stoplight - what's happening to your brakes? The part of the rotor that isn't under the pad is being cooled by the surrounding air. the part of the rotor that is still under the pad is still roasting hot. If you just sit there with your brakes applied, this can cause the rotor to warp due to the variance in cooling times of the covered by pad/non-covered areas of the rotor. I just sold a 97 Dodge Dakota with 100,000 miles on it. Never did a break job on it of any type - original pads and rotors. I would try not to "brake late", but if I had to, here's what I would do: I'd always stop with a car length or so separation between the car in front of me and after a few seconds of sitting still, I'd go forward a bit and stop again - after a few seconds, repeat. I also had a manual, so if on level ground, I could let off of the brake completely, but for the record, I almost never downshifted to aid braking - I almost always stopped using all brake. Another advantage to not "braking late" is that you can often coast to a light and keep your momentum up and not have to start out from first gear if you time it right. I always love passing people at lights when a few seconds earlier they sped past me with a red light a half mile in front of us. [:D] Good luck.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 10:53:52 PM EST
I've had to replace the pads on my minivan at 25,000. Factory pad aren't too good. My replacement pad has more than 30K on them. Wow that is pretty expensive I would personally get a second opinion from another mechanic even if they charge you a few buck. I lot mechanics no matter how trustworthy etc, really watch out for themselves. I used to work GM brakes, and mechanics turn the rotors as a matter of course in the brake(more money for them becaus they charge you labor), but there is a way to check to see if you actually need it by measuring the run-out with a dial indicator. For me personally I usually don't turn the rotor if it is not scored or you get a pulsating brake pedal.
Link Posted: 5/7/2003 11:33:39 PM EST
Like a fuck? errrrr rock? [;d]
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 1:43:23 AM EST
Ouch!!! I just got a brake job on my 2001 jimmy 4WD, 36,000 miles. The front rotors were pitted and rusted on the inside. New front rotors, turn the rears, and new pads all around. $360.00, ouch!!!!Then they tried to tack on another $60.00 to replace the brake fluid, NEGATIVE!!!!!! That little surprise was deducted.....
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 4:11:08 AM EST
SP10; Get a detailed estimate. Something does not sound right. Back when I used to work on this stuff(97-99), I had to do a $650 brake job on a Dakota. That was because the owner used the wrong fluid and swelled up all the rubber. I had to replace everything but the steel lines (did not have ABS) As far as changing fluid, It is recomended for alot of new cars and trucks with ABS. moisture is very bad for ABS, many manufactures now include that in the owners manual, some require it as a service. Its usually every other year. Its not in the manual for my 2000 GMC, but I have read this in other service manuals for this vehicle.
Link Posted: 5/8/2003 4:55:55 AM EST
Still lots of pads left. Apparently lots of corrosion on associated parts. I am planning on having it looked at elsewhere. Yup 4x4, 4 wheel antilock disk brakes.
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