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Posted: 7/5/2012 6:51:36 PM EST
I've got a bunch of large rebar around that I intend to use for shelves.  I want to use #14 bar (1 3/4" dia) for the vertical supports and #8 bar (1") for the horizontals.  The problem is I need to weld them together perpendicular and there is very little area touching.  These will be used for my reloading stuff so I anticipate a lot of weight.  The center of the shelves will be 3/4" oak planking over the #8 bar.

Any ideas on how I can get a good connection between the two bars?  I was considering getting some straps and bending them around the #8 and welding it above and below to the #14, but then I've got to come up with a good way to get a good, repetitive bend on a bunch of pieces.  the shelves will be about 3ft tall and 10ft long to fit under my benches.



I'll be using a 220v Miller arc welder and 6013 rod.
Link Posted: 7/5/2012 6:53:06 PM EST
[#1]
Concave your horizontal rods.
Link Posted: 7/5/2012 7:10:46 PM EST
[#2]
Quoted:
I've got a bunch of large rebar around that I intend to use for shelves.  I want to use #14 bar (1 3/4" dia) for the vertical supports and #8 bar (1") for the horizontals.  The problem is I need to weld them together perpendicular and there is very little area touching.  These will be used for my reloading stuff so I anticipate a lot of weight.  The center of the shelves will be 3/4" oak planking over the #8 bar.

Any ideas on how I can get a good connection between the two bars?  I was considering getting some straps and bending them around the #8 and welding it above and below to the #14, but then I've got to come up with a good way to get a good, repetitive bend on a bunch of pieces.  the shelves will be about 3ft tall and 10ft long to fit under my benches.



I'll be using a 220v Miller arc welder and 6013 rod.


Way over engineered .... unless you keep your reloading gear inside a fucking bus.

Just fucking 90° butt weld that shit and don't fuck it up.

Should be plenty to hold your #5 cans.





Link Posted: 7/5/2012 7:11:55 PM EST
[#3]
Your going to want a way to consistently jig that stuff up and you'll want a weld gap to ensure a complete weld anyway.  Id probly bevel the ends and set an 1/8" gap to fill.  If you just butt them up and weld it you'll get a junkyard weld with no actual structural support in the middle.
Link Posted: 7/5/2012 7:20:47 PM EST
[#4]
Quoted:
Your going to want a way to consistently jig that stuff up and you'll want a weld gap to ensure a complete weld anyway.  Id probly bevel the ends and set an 1/8" gap to fill.  If you just butt them up and weld it you'll get a junkyard weld with no actual structural support in the middle.


Except that they're already beveled .... they're round.

I'd probably triple pass them...

But seriously the premise is already way outside of "shelving".

Link Posted: 7/5/2012 7:46:42 PM EST
[#5]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your going to want a way to consistently jig that stuff up and you'll want a weld gap to ensure a complete weld anyway.  Id probly bevel the ends and set an 1/8" gap to fill.  If you just butt them up and weld it you'll get a junkyard weld with no actual structural support in the middle.


Except that they're already beveled .... they're round.

I'd probably triple pass them...

But seriously the premise is already way outside of "shelving".



Dude, why the crusty attitude?  I need shelves, I've got a big pile of #8 and #14 bar.  I can also get a bunch of #18 bar but the weight of the 14 is more than I was after and the #11 is a bit scarce for me.  Also, I shoot a lot of lead bullets, I cast bullets and I keep a lot on hand.  I have a wooden crate right now with probably 500lbs of bullets in it, which doesn't include the bulk .223.  It's a lot of weight, spanky.  


Harleykc,

My #8 bar is in 8ft lengths right now so I was hoping to simply run them the full length and weld them to the verticals.  From what I'm understanding from your post you are saying I should cut them and butt the #8 into the #14, but the reality is that would cause me to do a lot more cutting.  If I kept the #8 in its full length and attached it to the verticals I'd be done in a few hours.  If I needed to I could scab something below the #8 bar to support the weight, but it would have to be welded on and I'm back to welding a cylinder to a cylinder.


thanks-
Link Posted: 7/5/2012 7:53:17 PM EST
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your going to want a way to consistently jig that stuff up and you'll want a weld gap to ensure a complete weld anyway.  Id probly bevel the ends and set an 1/8" gap to fill.  If you just butt them up and weld it you'll get a junkyard weld with no actual structural support in the middle.


Except that they're already beveled .... they're round.

I'd probably triple pass them...

But seriously the premise is already way outside of "shelving".



Dude, why the crusty attitude?  I need shelves, I've got a big pile of #8 and #14 bar.  I can also get a bunch of #18 bar but the weight of the 14 is more than I was after and the #11 is a bit scarce for me.  Also, I shoot a lot of lead bullets, I cast bullets and I keep a lot on hand.  I have a wooden crate right now with probably 500lbs of bullets in it, which doesn't include the bulk .223.  It's a lot of weight, spanky.  


Harleykc,

My #8 bar is in 8ft lengths right now so I was hoping to simply run them the full length and weld them to the verticals.  From what I'm understanding from your post you are saying I should cut them and butt the #8 into the #14, but the reality is that would cause me to do a lot more cutting.  If I kept the #8 in its full length and attached it to the verticals I'd be done in a few hours.  If I needed to I could scab something below the #8 bar to support the weight, but it would have to be welded on and I'm back to welding a cylinder to a cylinder.


thanks-


You can still do that.  I was assuming a shorter shelf.  I'd still set roughly an 1/8" weld gap and run the rod a little hot on the first pass to fill the middle of the weld.  I fully understand using whats at hand, Im just a stickler for filling the weld properly.  Good luck and don't forget to post picks.
Link Posted: 7/5/2012 8:04:01 PM EST
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:


Harleykc,

My #8 bar is in 8ft lengths right now so I was hoping to simply run them the full length and weld them to the verticals.  From what I'm understanding from your post you are saying I should cut them and butt the #8 into the #14, but the reality is that would cause me to do a lot more cutting.  If I kept the #8 in its full length and attached it to the verticals I'd be done in a few hours.  If I needed to I could scab something below the #8 bar to support the weight, but it would have to be welded on and I'm back to welding a cylinder to a cylinder.


thanks-


You can still do that.  I was assuming a shorter shelf.  I'd still set roughly an 1/8" weld gap and run the rod a little hot on the first pass to fill the middle of the weld.  I fully understand using whats at hand, Im just a stickler for filling the weld properly.  Good luck and don't forget to post picks.


OK, I'll try that.  Just looking at the gaps it didn't look like I was going to be able to make much stick.  I have a lot of #4 bar that I'll use on the short direction to connect the two long sides but that's small enough that I think I can get it to weld up without too much trouble.

Maybe pics on Saturday, if I get my chores done.
Link Posted: 7/5/2012 8:05:44 PM EST
[#8]
a butt weld should be fine. I built a pipe cart for my shop at work using 1 1/4" sch. 40 pipe, I butt welded it and it will hold a 2,500lb bundle of pipe for weeks.
Link Posted: 7/6/2012 4:45:22 AM EST
[#9]
Butt welding is fine for what you're doing - but if you really have a need to do something like coping the ends of stock in the future, I suggest using a Rotabroach. Chucked up in a drill press or mill, hold the work in a V-block, and you can really rip through some stock.
Link Posted: 7/6/2012 9:51:05 PM EST
[#10]
Well I got a good start today, still need to cut a lot more wood and I've got plenty of iron for a shelf under my pallet racking on the right side of the picture, so I'll probably start that in the morning.


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