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Posted: 7/21/2008 6:06:33 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/24/2008 6:35:15 AM EDT by Dace]
A while ago we found massive water damage in my parents upstairs bathroom. Over the course of a couple of weekends I drove to their house and completely gutted it and found lots of mold and water damage. Well I got all that cleaned up.

Well he has been at it for about a week. He has the drywall, dryboard, and bathrub in now. But now I need some help to see if what he is doing is right. For one he didnt put up any vapor barrier at all. After all the water damage I would think you would want to do this. In addition, around the ledges where there was obvious previous water damage (where the wall board and tile obviously didnt seal everything out) he has only put tile backer board. Should you put the wall board around these areas also? Plus there are huge gaps everywhere.

Picture of the area gutted. You can see the water damage on the shelf.



Picture of nothing but tile back board on the shelf. He did all the shower area in the waterproff board except for the area around the window (where there was the most water damage) and the area around the shelf (where there was the most water damage).



There are also large gaps everywhere and nothing of the boards are flush.






In addition, initially the bathtub rocked a lot, it wasnt solid. When I mentioned this he said "oh I still need to level it." Well he leveled it with some window shims. Is this normal?



Is he going to fill all the cracks and gaps with silicone? Should he have used a vapor barrier? Should he be using the drywall board around the windowsill and shelf instead of tile back board?

We are paying this guy $3,000 to do half the bathroom. The sinks and stuff are through another door. This area only has the toilet and the bathtub. It just seems like a piss poor job right now and I dont know what to do.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 6:12:43 PM EDT
Gaps shouldnt be filled in with silicone he should use a fiberglass mesh tape and some form of thinset mortar mix. The gaps will be filled just like regular sheet rock is done. And the thing about shimming the tub is no biggie ... although I would ask him to use a platic shim instead of the wood ones, the wood ones could rot and then cause a loose tub in the future.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 6:19:04 PM EDT
My wife says that mastic and grout will cover the gaps.

That is, assuming this is a ceramic tile job.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 6:24:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/21/2008 6:31:36 PM EDT by superdav]
The backer board should have a vapor barrier behind it and as stated mesh and mortar the gaps and the uneven boards probably wont cause a problem with the right mortar, some of it you can build up 3/4 inch

FYI the blue backer board does not require a vapor barrier behnd it

ETA that floor looks kinda shitty, if it was me i would replace if it was the least bit damaged and either put treated wood down, Thompson water seal on it or Redgard since your going to all that trouble to retile. I would also level the tub bottom and the edge. Just leveling the edge puts the tub bottom in air somewhere until you step in it.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 6:34:29 PM EDT
Provided your putting tile over the top the gaps don't matter all that much.

-JTP
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 6:47:52 PM EDT
Here toy go. That thread title certainly has me thinking outside of the bun.
Link Posted: 7/21/2008 9:31:51 PM EDT
Job like this should cost alot more.

All the gaps need filing with motar/thinset, and mesh tape, as per the tilebacker manufacturers recommendations. Vapor barrier behind the backer wont prevent leaks. You need either ditra, or redguard, rubber membrane anywhere the tile will get wet, the backer board isn't water proof, and neither is the tile, grout,, or thinset. The backer needs more screws, and hopefully it was glued to the studs. Flushness in the backer isn't too critical if there will be thinset apllied , much like taping drywall, to apply the ditra.

I'm giving the guy the benefit of the doubt at the moment. As far as i know, your parents begged him to come up with a price that they could afford, or said "what can we get for $3000". Something like this should cost ALOT more to be really good. This guy might do a serviceable job, that lasts for a few years. By the nature of your questions, you dont know enough about tile work to be the judge of this guys work. You should know that if you are only paying 1/3 of the going rate, you'll only get about 1/4 the job.
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