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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 7/1/2002 3:35:16 AM EST
[Last Edit: 7/1/2002 5:18:07 AM EST by DaveS]
Guy at work has '93 Ranger. Alt. was removed and checked out fine +14V output. He said he watched the batt gauge go from 14V to dead (along with the trunk's engine). What's trashed and needs to be replaced? TIA, Dave S I ain't no mech, I just use 'em to get to work, fishing and shooting ranges!
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 3:40:46 AM EST
Voltage Regulator?
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 3:47:43 AM EST
Well.. what little I do know about cars is... if your alternator is working fine, the vechicle should run and keep running with out a battery (pop the clutch starts is my best example). I'd think about replacing the alternator anyways. Those testers aren't always right. But that's just me and my .02
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 3:52:42 AM EST
Thanks and keep em coming! Dave S
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 3:57:58 AM EST
If the truck shut off and the Batt. still had at least 10.5 volts it is a connection or short someplace If the voltage in the Batt. is below 10.5 it maybe as simple as a bad Batt. If the Batt. voltage is ok it is a connection or short . Make sure you have a good batt. in in and start checking voltage and connections from the Batt. on back . Make sure you start with the Batt. connection and the grounds are good.
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 4:09:16 AM EST
Ford Ranger Alternators use an internal Voltage Regulator. However, if it can put 14.4 volts out on the truck, it's doing what it should. If it's not, one particular thing to look at is the alternator connection. Ford had a big recall several years back involving the alternator connector. There is a diode in it that can fail and cause problems. Replace the alternator connector and make sure to put the little package of grease on the terminals when installing it. If the battery is showing less than 12 volts with no-load/keyoff then you've got a bad battery or a bad connection. Try cleaning the battery posts and the post clamps...it does wonders. No-Korode and other terminal greases are good for preventing further terminal corrosion.
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 4:15:35 AM EST
Check the water level in the battery (if it's not a maintiance(sp) free type). When you clean the batt terminals and clamps, make sure they are shiny, not a dull grey (gray?) color. Had a battery that was low on water (took 3/4 a gallon of distilled water). Managed to save it though.....
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 4:17:28 AM EST
I'll second the battery connection suggestions, especially if the voltage regulator is integrated w/ the alternator. Clean the clamps & posts, and re-tighten as suggested above. Good luck.
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 4:32:28 AM EST
More data, guys. Jon told me that he bought a DieHard (SEARS) and a new(rebuild from Auto-Zone) alternator for the exact same problem that he is having now. Dave S
Link Posted: 7/1/2002 5:20:14 AM EST
BTT [looks like it might be the diode] and thanks, Dave S
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