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Posted: 3/7/2011 2:28:02 PM EDT
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:33:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:35:01 PM EDT
[#2]
It won't hurt to change the plug and it doesn't cost much either. Usually the problem is varnish at the carb jets. Just get a small can of carb/fuel injector cleaner and put a couple of tablespoons full of it into your 1 gallon can of gas/oil mixture. It should smooth out right a way. I hope this helps.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:35:06 PM EDT
[#3]
FPFTW
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:35:23 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


It could be the spark plug, I would just check it to be sure. For future reference ethanol is not good in these. It eats the carbs like crazy. Henceforh either, run some stabil in your gas, perhaps seafoam and either leave it that way or run it dry on one of the aforementioned substances mixed with some gas. I do that...
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:36:09 PM EDT
[#5]
Try replacing the air filter first. That fixes mine. Every two years.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:36:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Clean out the air filter.



18 secs...
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:37:06 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)


Sounds like it.  Had to get my Stihl fixed because of the same condition last year.  
Said he's seen a LOT of them recently.  Thanks ethanol!
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:38:49 PM EDT
[#8]
Clean the air filter.

Clean out the exhaust. Mine gets full of residue and will make it run horrible. I usually clean it twice a year.

Also, you might need to adjust your carb. You can probably find the instructions on how to do it on the manufacturer's website.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:42:10 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)


This.

My chainsaw guy says to empty the tank of the fuel mix because you can't make it not fuck up the fuel system.

Ethanol blows.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:43:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)


This.

My chainsaw guy says to empty the tank of the fuel mix because you can't make it not fuck up the fuel system.

Ethanol blows.


I've moved ALL my small 2 strokes over to 40Fuel...
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:45:02 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)


This.

My chainsaw guy says to empty the tank of the fuel mix because you can't make it not fuck up the fuel system.

Ethanol blows.


Both of my Echos did the same thing. Rebuilt the carb and they run like new. The soft goods in the carb get hard with age. Bought mine (rebuild kit) off the internet for cheap.

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:47:08 PM EDT
[#12]


A crack in the gas line between the fuel tank and carb will do this, might not even leak, just small enough to let air in and stop the flow of gas.

So will a cracked primer bubble.



Link Posted: 3/7/2011 2:59:09 PM EDT
[#13]
Wow, Thanks for all the replies so far everyone!  

Alright, like I said before, this is not my strong point, so please bear with my stupid questions

Quoted:
It won't hurt to change the plug and it doesn't cost much either. Usually the problem is varnish at the carb jets. Just get a small can of carb/fuel injector cleaner and put a couple of tablespoons full of it into your 1 gallon can of gas/oil mixture. It should smooth out right a way. I hope this helps.


I'm willing to give this a try.  Could you be more specific about what product to use?  When I googled 'fuel injector cleaner', the only canned products were aerosol.  So I was wondering how you get a couple of tablespoons of that measured out.  Is there a product you recommend?
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:00:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


It could be the spark plug, I would just check it to be sure. For future reference ethanol is not good in these. It eats the carbs like crazy. Henceforh either, run some stabil in your gas, perhaps seafoam and either leave it that way or run it dry on one of the aforementioned substances mixed with some gas. I do that...


How do I check the spark plug?

I know how to take it out but I have no idea what I'm looking for.  I removed it just to take a look at it and I had no idea if it was good or bad.

Again, thanks in advance for dealing with my stupid questions
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:02:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Try replacing the air filter first. That fixes mine. Every two years.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


I will try to figure out how to do that.  Thanks

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:03:22 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
Also, you might need to adjust your carb. You can probably find the instructions on how to do it on the manufacturer's website.


Roger that.  Thanks.

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:05:34 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:

My chainsaw guy says to empty the tank of the fuel mix because you can't make it not fuck up the fuel system.

Ethanol blows.


Not sure if I understand this.

Ok, I get that ethanol blows.  Not exactly sure about why, but that's ok.  

How do I get fuel that doesn't contain ethanol?  Every gas station I go to says "contains X% ethanol".  I just figure that it's in everything.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:06:38 PM EDT
[#18]
make sure their isn't a hole in the little bubble. or like others have said clean out the air filter. try running it with the choke on for a little.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:11:40 PM EDT
[#19]




Quoted:



Quoted:



My chainsaw guy says to empty the tank of the fuel mix because you can't make it not fuck up the fuel system.



Ethanol blows.




Not sure if I understand this.



Ok, I get that ethanol blows. Not exactly sure about why, but that's ok.



How do I get fuel that doesn't contain ethanol? Every gas station I go to says "contains X% ethanol". I just figure that it's in everything.


You can get lawnmower fuel at Walmart or good hardware stores. Make sure you add your premix oil or the fuel has it in it. I stabilize my fuel when I open the can. That way it will be good in three months. When you put your tools away in the fall make sure fuel is stabilzed and then run the engine out of fuel.



Ethanol is not compatible with the rubber parts in the the carburetor. It also vapor locks easier.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:13:33 PM EDT
[#20]
to check the spark plug: unscrew the plug then connect it back to the wire. Touch the threads of the plug to a metal part on the trimmer then pull the cord. there will be a spark out at the tip of the plug.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:14:27 PM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


It could be the spark plug, I would just check it to be sure. For future reference ethanol is not good in these. It eats the carbs like crazy. Henceforh either, run some stabil in your gas, perhaps seafoam and either leave it that way or run it dry on one of the aforementioned substances mixed with some gas. I do that...


How do I check the spark plug?

I know how to take it out but I have no idea what I'm looking for.  I removed it just to take a look at it and I had no idea if it was good or bad.

Again, thanks in advance for dealing with my stupid questions


Not a stupid question! I don't mind helping anyone that is willing to ask a question. We all started somewhere, that is the important thing to note. A one point in my life I didn't know jack about motors. Hell I don't even know everything I need to know now but I as slowly learning engines, painting, lifting, suspension, brakes, interior work etc. It was the same with roofing, siding, concrete, truck driving, dry wall etc. all a learning process.

Towards the back of your weedeater there should be a wire that plugs onto the "spark plug". It pry looks like this.

Here is a pic of the spark plug location on this particular model (pry not your own).

But it does give you an idea of what to look for.

Once you pull that black "boot" off the spark plug, the spark plug should be sticking out looking like this

Now having that you have to use what is called a spark plug socket, which is just like a regular socket but has a rubber piece in the end of it to prevent the porcelian insulation from cracking. It will pry either be a 13/16 sp socket, or maybe even a 5/8 spark plug socket. Attach it onto the spark plug and then use it like you would a normal socket. Once its out look for the colors on the end of it (side that sticks into the engine), if its black, burnt or faded then replace it. They are cheap enough like $2.00 or so.

After you get a new plug do the reverse of that process, and then attach the wire and then press your priming bulb a few times and try and start it (make sure your choke is on to get it warmed up.

I would also hit it with some spray carb cleaner.


Here are a few helpful links


http://www.ehow.com/video_4426498_maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs.html
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg051610237940.html

Here is a general guide for diagnosing spark plugs

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:15:08 PM EDT
[#22]
Ethanol sucks because it is alcohol and it attracts moisture ,dissolves some plastics and rubber.Buy a fuel additive that is for E10 Ethanol gas to keep it from absorbing moisture,not just fuel stabilizer.

Also check your fuel filter it is in the fuel tank connected to a small hose ,take a piece of coat hanger and fish it out .It will be long enough to come out of the tank. Take it off the hose and try to blow through it .If it's real hard to blow through get a new one from mower store.

Edit -Spark plug should look coco brown if it's running good ,more ashy white and it running lean and black it's running to rich.If it starts the plug is probably good as they don't go bad often.Its a fuel problem more than likely.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:15:19 PM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


If you had the model/manufacturer info I will find a guide for you.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:15:53 PM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)


Sounds like it.  Had to get my Stihl fixed because of the same condition last year.  
Said he's seen a LOT of them recently.  Thanks ethanol!


Just had to have the carb replaced on my stihl as well
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:17:05 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Ethanol victim...  It has hardened the fuel flow diaphragm.  

If you cannot fix it yourself, throw it away and buy a new one, because you'll spend that much getting a professional to repair your old one... (unless you've got a really expensive model)


Sounds like it.  Had to get my Stihl fixed because of the same condition last year.  
Said he's seen a LOT of them recently.  Thanks ethanol!


Just had to have the carb replaced on my stihl as well


Are you now running it dry and or useing stabil/seafoam in it and running that through it before you store it?
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:25:25 PM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


It could be the spark plug, I would just check it to be sure. For future reference ethanol is not good in these. It eats the carbs like crazy. Henceforh either, run some stabil in your gas, perhaps seafoam and either leave it that way or run it dry on one of the aforementioned substances mixed with some gas. I do that...


How do I check the spark plug?

I know how to take it out but I have no idea what I'm looking for.  I removed it just to take a look at it and I had no idea if it was good or bad.

Again, thanks in advance for dealing with my stupid questions


Not a stupid question! I don't mind helping anyone that is willing to ask a question. We all started somewhere, that is the important thing to note. A one point in my life I didn't know jack about motors. Hell I don't even know everything I need to know now but I as slowly learning engines, painting, lifting, suspension, brakes, interior work etc. It was the same with roofing, siding, concrete, truck driving, dry wall etc. all a learning process.

Towards the back of your weedeater there should be a wire that plugs onto the "spark plug". It pry looks like this.

Here is a pic of the spark plug location on this particular model (pry not your own). http://www.ehow.com/images/a04/72/o2/maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs-800X800.jpg

But it does give you an idea of what to look for.

Once you pull that black "boot" off the spark plug, the spark plug should be sticking out looking like this http://img04.static-nextag.com/image/NGK-Spark-Plugs-BM4A/1/000/006/476/321/647632188.jpg

Now having that you have to use what is called a spark plug socket, which is just like a regular socket but has a rubber piece in the end of it to prevent the porcelian insulation from cracking. It will pry either be a 13/16 sp socket, or maybe even a 5/8 spark plug socket. Attach it onto the spark plug and then use it like you would a normal socket. Once its out look for the colors on the end of it (side that sticks into the engine), if its black, burnt or faded then replace it. They are cheap enough like $2.00 or so.

After you get a new plug do the reverse of that process, and then attach the wire and then press your priming bulb a few times and try and start it (make sure your choke is on to get it warmed up.

I would also hit it with some spray carb cleaner.


Here are a few helpful links


http://www.ehow.com/video_4426498_maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs.html
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg051610237940.html

Here is a general guide for diagnosing spark plugs

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm


I have that same stinking model and guess what I had the same problem. When I gave it the throttle it would cut out.  The idle screw got backed out on it.  Once I increased the idle speed, it now runs fine.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:25:40 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


If you had the model/manufacturer info I will find a guide for you.


Ok. Here goes.  I know I'm going to get flamed for this...



It's a Ryobi - The kind with the different attachment tools.



Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:26:27 PM EDT
[#28]
Turn the choke off

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:26:27 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


It could be the spark plug, I would just check it to be sure. For future reference ethanol is not good in these. It eats the carbs like crazy. Henceforh either, run some stabil in your gas, perhaps seafoam and either leave it that way or run it dry on one of the aforementioned substances mixed with some gas. I do that...


How do I check the spark plug?

I know how to take it out but I have no idea what I'm looking for.  I removed it just to take a look at it and I had no idea if it was good or bad.

Again, thanks in advance for dealing with my stupid questions


Not a stupid question! I don't mind helping anyone that is willing to ask a question. We all started somewhere, that is the important thing to note. A one point in my life I didn't know jack about motors. Hell I don't even know everything I need to know now but I as slowly learning engines, painting, lifting, suspension, brakes, interior work etc. It was the same with roofing, siding, concrete, truck driving, dry wall etc. all a learning process.

Towards the back of your weedeater there should be a wire that plugs onto the "spark plug". It pry looks like this.

Here is a pic of the spark plug location on this particular model (pry not your own). http://www.ehow.com/images/a04/72/o2/maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs-800X800.jpg

But it does give you an idea of what to look for.

Once you pull that black "boot" off the spark plug, the spark plug should be sticking out looking like this http://img04.static-nextag.com/image/NGK-Spark-Plugs-BM4A/1/000/006/476/321/647632188.jpg

Now having that you have to use what is called a spark plug socket, which is just like a regular socket but has a rubber piece in the end of it to prevent the porcelian insulation from cracking. It will pry either be a 13/16 sp socket, or maybe even a 5/8 spark plug socket. Attach it onto the spark plug and then use it like you would a normal socket. Once its out look for the colors on the end of it (side that sticks into the engine), if its black, burnt or faded then replace it. They are cheap enough like $2.00 or so.

After you get a new plug do the reverse of that process, and then attach the wire and then press your priming bulb a few times and try and start it (make sure your choke is on to get it warmed up.

I would also hit it with some spray carb cleaner.


Here are a few helpful links


http://www.ehow.com/video_4426498_maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs.html
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg051610237940.html

Here is a general guide for diagnosing spark plugs

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm


Thanks!

(That response deserved a beer toast)
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:27:47 PM EDT
[#30]
Also, at work we run SeaFoam through the two cycle equipment every once in awhile and it helps give it some extra performance, but that's secondary to the air filter and general maintenance
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:28:45 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:

Are you now running it dry and or useing stabil/seafoam in it and running that through it before you store it?


Just got it replaced. Probably will just run it dry?.. Should I use the stabil?

The thing is 9 yrs old and this is the only the 2nd time in the shop.

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:31:19 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
Quoted:

Are you now running it dry and or useing stabil/seafoam in it and running that through it before you store it?


Just got it replaced. Probably will just run it dry?.. Should I use the stabil?

The thing is 9 yrs old and this is the only the 2nd time in the shop.



Yeah I'd run Stabil (which I have personally seen used on these things) it made my life awesome. I stored a weedeater for a boss one year using this method running stabil through it and then filled it up the next year. Fire up like 3rd pull!
I personally would run stabil through it, and then run it dry. It helps to wash out anything on the inside and keep the gas fresh ( you can also just mix it into your gas in your weedeater and then run it through a bit and then not run it dry. ) That works too.

Seafoam also is great for this, I use it on all my vehicles. I don't necessarily believe it is a magic substance but I guarantee its damn good for helping to prevent gas breakdown and the formation of water in gas.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:32:05 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Thanks in advance for any help on this.

I have one of those gas powered trimmers.  I'm using the right mixture of oil and gas.  When I apply the throttle, the motor stalls out.

Could this at all be the spark plug?

I don't know squat about these things but I know I can change a spark plug


It could be the spark plug, I would just check it to be sure. For future reference ethanol is not good in these. It eats the carbs like crazy. Henceforh either, run some stabil in your gas, perhaps seafoam and either leave it that way or run it dry on one of the aforementioned substances mixed with some gas. I do that...


How do I check the spark plug?

I know how to take it out but I have no idea what I'm looking for.  I removed it just to take a look at it and I had no idea if it was good or bad.

Again, thanks in advance for dealing with my stupid questions


Not a stupid question! I don't mind helping anyone that is willing to ask a question. We all started somewhere, that is the important thing to note. A one point in my life I didn't know jack about motors. Hell I don't even know everything I need to know now but I as slowly learning engines, painting, lifting, suspension, brakes, interior work etc. It was the same with roofing, siding, concrete, truck driving, dry wall etc. all a learning process.

Towards the back of your weedeater there should be a wire that plugs onto the "spark plug". It pry looks like this.

Here is a pic of the spark plug location on this particular model (pry not your own). http://www.ehow.com/images/a04/72/o2/maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs-800X800.jpg

But it does give you an idea of what to look for.

Once you pull that black "boot" off the spark plug, the spark plug should be sticking out looking like this http://img04.static-nextag.com/image/NGK-Spark-Plugs-BM4A/1/000/006/476/321/647632188.jpg

Now having that you have to use what is called a spark plug socket, which is just like a regular socket but has a rubber piece in the end of it to prevent the porcelian insulation from cracking. It will pry either be a 13/16 sp socket, or maybe even a 5/8 spark plug socket. Attach it onto the spark plug and then use it like you would a normal socket. Once its out look for the colors on the end of it (side that sticks into the engine), if its black, burnt or faded then replace it. They are cheap enough like $2.00 or so.

After you get a new plug do the reverse of that process, and then attach the wire and then press your priming bulb a few times and try and start it (make sure your choke is on to get it warmed up.

I would also hit it with some spray carb cleaner.


Here are a few helpful links


http://www.ehow.com/video_4426498_maintain-weed-eater-spark-plugs.html
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tools/msg051610237940.html

Here is a general guide for diagnosing spark plugs

http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm


Thanks!

(That response deserved a beer toast)


Hope that helps you. If needed send me an IM and I'll send you my cell number I can try and walk you through it. Trust me if I can do it, you certainly can do it.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:36:58 PM EDT
[#34]
When you get it running, sell it on craigslist and buy a real mans trimmer
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:39:52 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
When you get it running, sell it on craigslist and buy a real mans trimmer


A 36 foot wide disk with a john deere to pull it of course...
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:43:38 PM EDT
[#36]
Quoted:
When you get it running, sell it on craigslist and buy a real mans trimmer


I knew that was coming

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:49:15 PM EDT
[#37]
Dude, youre running a weed whacker in the snow???  No wonder its fucked

Just got rid of the latest batch of satans piss today. Still bent about winter
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 3:52:33 PM EDT
[#38]
ALWAYS use Stabil in your gas.....


If carb is shot/diaphram...order a new carb from online.....its simple to install and adjust. Dont get the old one rebuilt.
Link Posted: 3/7/2011 4:04:44 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
You can get lawnmower fuel at Walmart or good hardware stores.


Wait seriously?  I don't think I've ever seen lawnmower fuel sold in stores.  Does Home Depot sell it?  Or what about Ace/True Value?

Link Posted: 3/7/2011 4:42:00 PM EDT
[#40]
My 2 year old Shindaiwa is doing the same thing.  I dumped out the old gas/oil mix, put in some fresh mix and added a 4x rate of Seafoam.  I fired it up, and ran it for at least 5 minutes wide open.  It seems to have helped a bit, and I am hoping that it will help more as I use it this year.  I am also now using Starbrite StarTron in an effort to help with the ethanol issues.  The shop that works on my stuff is recommending it now, so we will see.  I just wish they would go back to real gas and drop this ethanol crap.


If you are going to use Stabil, use the Marine Stabil not the regular Stabil.  
Link Posted: 3/8/2011 1:43:32 PM EDT
[#41]
UPDATE:

Everything is working GREAT!!!



Thank you all for your help.

So here's what I did.  I can't say for sure which of these solved the problem in it's entirety, but if I have to do this once a year to keep my equipment working, it's well worth it.

I went and purchased some 'fresh' fuel and 2 stroke oil (to mix in with the fuel), something called "Ethanol Shield" (a fuel stabilizer that they sell in the lawn equipment aisle at Home Depot), a new spark plug, and a carb / fuel injector spray cleaner (everything cost less than $15).

I disposed of the old remaining fuel from the trimmer in an environmentally concious manner, and replaced it with the new fuel which included the oil & stabilizer.  I replaced the old spark plug with a new one.  Then I proceded to (try to) start the motor.  It took several pulls and a few stall-outs before the motor finally started to cooperate.  Once I had it going, I let it run for a couple of minutes to circulate the new fuel.  Then I sprayed the carb with the cleaner, and it stalled out again.  A few more pulls and it was roaring away.

SIDE NOTE QUESTION:

Earlier today, I stopped at an auto parts store and picked up a can of that stuff I read a few people mention here, Seafoam.  I didn't end up using any of it and will probably return it - UNLESS - there's a need for me to keep it.  Should I add any of that stuff to the fuel tank of my trimmer?  I mean, is it necessary or beneficial at this point?  Keep in mind, I also have an old gas lawn mower that could possibly benefit from this as well.

Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!

Link Posted: 3/8/2011 1:49:21 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted:
UPDATE:

Everything is working GREAT!!!



Thank you all for your help.

So here's what I did.  I can't say for sure which of these solved the problem in it's entirety, but if I have to do this once a year to keep my equipment working, it's well worth it.

I went and purchased some 'fresh' fuel and 2 stroke oil (to mix in with the fuel), something called "Ethanol Shield" (a fuel stabilizer that they sell in the lawn equipment aisle at Home Depot), a new spark plug, and a carb / fuel injector spray cleaner (everything cost less than $15).

I disposed of the old remaining fuel from the trimmer in an environmentally concious manner, and replaced it with the new fuel which included the oil & stabilizer.  I replaced the old spark plug with a new one.  Then I proceded to (try to) start the motor.  It took several pulls and a few stall-outs before the motor finally started to cooperate.  Once I had it going, I let it run for a couple of minutes to circulate the new fuel.  Then I sprayed the carb with the cleaner, and it stalled out again.  A few more pulls and it was roaring away.

SIDE NOTE QUESTION:

Earlier today, I stopped at an auto parts store and picked up a can of that stuff I read a few people mention here, Seafoam.  I didn't end up using any of it and will probably return it - UNLESS - there's a need for me to keep it.  Should I add any of that stuff to the fuel tank of my trimmer?  I mean, is it necessary or beneficial at this point?  Keep in mind, I also have an old gas lawn mower that could possibly benefit from this as well.

Again, THANK YOU EVERYONE!!!



FWIW many people claim seafoam is some magic bad ass thing. I do not contend that it will repair a motor that really needs rebuilt. However, I do guarantee that it will make a difference.My buddy had a project he had a motor that was black as sin lawn motor motor. I pulled it apart took pics and put it back together and ran a shit ton of sea foam through it. After we did that we pulled it apart and comparing the pics there is a guaranteed difference. I've done the same on a buddies truck without him knowing about it after he was talking about wanting to try it out but though it was snake oil. I did it one weekend and he came in and was bragging to me about how his truck is running great. I then showed him the can. Second, I do it to all my rigs. I did it in the snow one time with my 84 Ford with a 460. Through the brake booster hose, it colored the snow black as shit with all the carbon blown out. I don't use it in the oil as it can knock sludge into the pickup screen and run my motor dry and spin a bearing. So I do use it via the intake/injection system, and in the gas tanks and I know it makes a difference. If anything it will prevent water formation in your gas tank or atleast reduce it. Almost everyone I know runs it in their trucks, and lawn equipment. It does indeed make a difference. I'd say run it!
Link Posted: 3/8/2011 2:00:45 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
FWIW many people claim seafoam is some magic bad ass thing. I do not contend that it will repair a motor that really needs rebuilt. However, I do guarantee that it will make a difference.My buddy had a project he had a motor that was black as sin lawn motor motor. I pulled it apart took pics and put it back together and ran a shit ton of sea foam through it. After we did that we pulled it apart and comparing the pics there is a guaranteed difference. I've done the same on a buddies truck without him knowing about it after he was talking about wanting to try it out but though it was snake oil. I did it one weekend and he came in and was bragging to me about how his truck is running great. I then showed him the can. Second, I do it to all my rigs. I did it in the snow one time with my 84 Ford with a 460. Through the brake booster hose, it colored the snow black as shit with all the carbon blown out. I don't use it in the oil as it can knock sludge into the pickup screen and run my motor dry and spin a bearing. So I do use it via the intake/injection system, and in the gas tanks and I know it makes a difference. If anything it will prevent water formation in your gas tank or atleast reduce it. Almost everyone I know runs it in their trucks, and lawn equipment. It does indeed make a difference. I'd say run it!


Ok, First of all, I'm not entirely clear about everything you just said but that's ok.  I appreciate the help your giving me here.  Thanksa again.  I think the point you are trying to make it that it can't hurt to use the Seafoam, right?

My questions are... Do I add it to the fuel tank on the trimmer?  Or do I pour some in my 1 gallon storage tank that I use to fill the trimmer? (I have a separate 2 gallon tank for my lawnmower that doesn't contain an oil mixture).  Do I add it EVEN THOUGH I've already added the other stabilizer (Ethanol Shield) to the fuel storage tanks or will that be overkill?  And exactly how much of this stuff do I add (whether it's to the actual equipment tank or the storage tanks)?
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