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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 6/17/2003 10:07:16 PM EST
I got a wild hair and decided to build a chess table. I bought some simple plans off of eBay, and had my dad to help me. To be honest he made the vast majority of the cuts, and all I did was the finish work. I think it turned out pretty good, or as my dad says, "good enough for who it's for." I think the construction is pretty obvious, but I'll explain anyway. The table top is 2 pieces of 3/4 birch plywood with the top piece having a 16"x16" square cut in it for the playing surface. The squares are 2"x2" and are birch plywood. Under the table is a white pine 2x4 cross identical to the pedistal feet. The 4 legs are 2x2s, and the skirt is 1x4, all in white pine. [IMG]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/table1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/table2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://mywebpages.comcast.net/davisanthonyc/table3.jpg[/IMG] For my next project, I would love to build a board similar to this: [url]http://auction1.inetu.net/member/turtlepaintedgreen/aaa0008.jpg[/url] Any idea how to go about it? I assume that I would need a biscuit joiner, but I really don't know how to get hardwoods into the shape to even make the joints. tony
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:10:41 PM EST
Nice work. All my dad ever taught me was how to tail a table saw.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:25:15 PM EST
I've always wanted to get into wood working. BTW, that looks nice, especially for a first attempt.
Link Posted: 6/17/2003 10:32:13 PM EST
How long did it take to carve all those game pieces? [BD] CHRIS
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 12:16:30 AM EST
Looks good to me!
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 2:17:03 AM EST
That's awesome! Real men build shit. Period. Welcome to the ranks. Now keep doing it. Sooner or later you'd better start designing your own stuff too, or else you'll get kicked out of the club. There are guys out there that have been "woodworking" for 30 years and never built anything that they didn't buy the plans for first. It's good to start out like that, but eventually you must move on.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 2:22:10 AM EST
Good work! Go take a look at Stickley or Quoizel stuff to see what kind of prices nicely made pieces can fetch.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 2:33:32 AM EST
YOu can probably get away with just using a good cyanoacrylic wood glue, and skip the biskit thing, to make the borderless set. Most of em have a stronger bond than the wood itself, just make sure you run all the grain in the same direction.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 2:58:54 AM EST
Looks nice [beer] soda
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:55:13 AM EST
What kind of wood is that?
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 5:10:42 AM EST
Good Job!
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:13:36 AM EST
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:45:21 AM EST
Epoxy works very nicely as well, but takes a bit more finesse and planning to use successfully. With a board like that you are going to have to have a few things working for you first. 1. a good jointer, properly set up with a tight 90 degree fence setting. 2. a good planer as wide as the board will finish out to, or a thickness sander such as a performax or Delta drum sander. 3. a table saw properly set up with a good 90 degree fence. 4. a cut off sled for the table saw that cuts dead on accurate 90 degree cuts, or 5. a good miter saw with a dead on 90 degree setting. first step is wood selection. contrasting species like birch and walnut are a good bet. Exotics like ebony, rosewood, and the like are nice, but are an absolute bitch to work with. It won't take much of either species to finish the project, maybe 2 board feet of each. your rough stock will probably be 4-6 inches wide and however long. You are going to do most of your machining with the wood in long strips. Joint a face of each board on the jointer. It's best to joint the face that is slightly concave as you'll have some stability at the corners. Jointing the convex face leaves you with no support at the corners and a rocking workpiece. The idea of jointing a board face is to provide a dead flat surface to use as a reference for machining the other surfaces. Jointing requires an eye and a feel for the grain, cutting into descending grain leads to tear out on the board surface, which is UGLY. However, sometimes the grain will reverse and there is no way to avoid some tear out, take LIGHT cuts with the jointer and find the feed direction that yields the least tear out. Once you've gotten a face of the board flat (you'll know it because the sawmill marks will be gone, or the pencil crosshatchings you put on the board are gone from the entire surface) you place that face up against the jointer fence and joint an edge. Again, you choose the edge with a concave profile so you have support at both ends of the board. Keep jointing off 16ths or so until you have a dead straight edge. You now have boards with 1 face and 1 edge that are 90 degrees to one another and flat. Next, go to the tablesaw and set your fence to rip 2 inch wide strips from your boards. Put the jointed face down and the jointed edge against the fence. These are your accurate references to the accurately machined and aligned tablesaw surfaces. Cut your strips. You now have 2 inch wide strips of your 2 different wood species, each strip has 2- flat edges and 1 flat face, both edges are 90 degrees to the flat face and parallel to one another in 2 dimensions. The last face is not yet flat. Go to the planer and feed the strips through, taking light cuts. Feed in the direction that produces the least possible tear out. Feed with the jointed faces down (in contact with the flat reference surface of the planer). Plane them all until they no longer display any pencil crosshatchings or sawmill marks on the unjointed face, then plane down to 1/16th or so greater than you want the final thickness of the chess board to be. Now you have strips of your two different species of wood 2 inches wide, however long and all faces and edges are parallel to one another, flat and square. Now there are different ways to build the chess board pattern. You can cut the strips up into 2 inch squares and commence to glueing, OR, you can glue up the strips, alternating the colors. You'll need to make the pattern of alternating strips wider than the chessboard pattern (10 strips wide rather than the 8 regulation squares) . You'll have a piece of wood 20 inches by 20 inches (I recommend allowing plenty of extra length in each strip because glueing up and keeping the ends square is difficult). Once the glue sets up, scrape off the squeeze out, and square 1 end of the panel (across the alternating stripes) Then cut 2 inch strips across the alternating stripes (you'll probable have enough material for 9 strips, which is good, and extra is always good). This leaves you with strips of 10 chess board squares. Now align your strips to get the proper alternation. You will have 1 square of waste at each of two edges to get rid of, and your width should be good, with one strip left over. Glue up the strips, clamp and align them as carefully in glue up as possible so they stay aligned. When it's dry 24 hours or so later, cut off the excess squares. Now your squares are unlikely to be perfectly flat. This is where your planer or thickness sander comes in. With a 2 inch square size, you will need a big planer to flatten the board out. You might be able to gain access to such a thing at your local tech high school or public school with a good shop. Same with a thickness sander. If you can't get access to either, a good handplane can work, so will a belt sander. Another option is to glue up the board in two halves, plane them to final thickness, then glue them up using dowels or a biscuit jointer to keep them as close to flat as possible. Then sanding or hand planing will even out that one joint. You can also leave things even thicker after the initial trip through the planer and then plane down the glued up strips of alternating species to ensure those strips are uniform with each other. The more trips through the planer you are going to take, the thicker you need to leave the stock in the first place. Sand, scrape or handplane down all surfaces and edges to the smoothness you wish and finish as you desire. Going with the strip method allows you to work with much larger pieces and keeps glue up simpler. Because you are going with an unbacked, non-bordered design, you'll probably want to start off with thicker stock to give plenty of room for jointing and planing while still leaving enough mass for strength. starting with 8/4 stock might not be excessive, but 6/4 should be fine to get down to a 1 inch thick board. Thicker stock means more board feet of lumber, but you are still dealing with under 4 board feet total for the board. A chessboard 16 inches square, by 1 inch thick contains 1.777 board feet of finished wood. You'll waste quite a bit in unsuitable wood and machined off material. So I would plan plenty of material. If you've got lots of extra, make another chess board or a cutting board for your kitchen.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:54:13 AM EST
That looks really nice. My roomate would make his own furniture, too. But it was way cruder than what you've made. Nice work.
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 6:57:22 AM EST
nice [:)]
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:37:09 AM EST
Thanks for the replies guys, One thing that irritates me looking at those pictures, is how obvious it is that my wood filler didn't stain out the same color as my wood. You can see the little spots where we filled the nail holes on the skirt. Almost wish I hadn't filled them. Of course the worst spot on the table is where I lowered the tail of my nail gun and shot one through the table top. Grrr. I chalk it up to learning. thanks again, and thanks especially to Iceman. I will have to go back and read that a third and forth time. tony
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:44:32 AM EST
Dont use woodfiller to fill screwheads. Use plugs. Countersink the screws, and get a plug cutter for your drill press (can use a handrill if you are careful), cut plugs from a scrap piece of wood, glue in plug on top of the screw head, be sure to align the grain of the plugs to match the piece, use a chisel to make the plug flush with piece (or fairly close), then sand down
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 8:46:59 AM EST
Great job...keep up the good work...it is a very rewarding hobby...
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 9:20:45 AM EST
My father in law does some incredible woodworking. His shop is about 2500 sq ft. He usually makes things like jewelry boxes, cigar boxes, etc. I've tries to talk him into making presentation boxes for firearms, medals, knives, swords, etc. Here are some pics: [img]http://www.cerobertsonline.com/images/Stellar_Rouge.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.cerobertsonline.com/images/Drunkards_path_2.JPG[/img] [img]http://www.cerobertsonline.com/images/midnight_purple_2.JPG[/img] He also teaches classes on coopering. Here's his site for more [url]http://www.cerobertsonline.com/index.htm[/url]
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 1:03:07 PM EST
[Last Edit: 6/18/2003 1:04:13 PM EST by A_G]
Looks good Hexagram13! Check out these sites for an awesome game board that's not all too hard to build. It's built by David Marks, he has a show on DIY Network called "Wood Works" that airs at 5:30pm PST Monday. Here are the links: [url]http://djmarks.com/portfollioimages/Woodworks%20Html%20pages/411_gameboard.html[/url] [url]http://diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,10529,00.html[/url] [url]http://diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,10530,00.html[/url] [url]http://diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,10531,00.html[/url] [url]http://diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,10532,00.html[/url]
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:11:35 PM EST
Link Posted: 6/18/2003 4:20:14 PM EST
Link Posted: 6/19/2003 7:18:38 AM EST
beeswax and linseed oil make a crummy finish. Aesthetically it's pretty nice, and has a great "hand," but especially on the vanity where water is an issue, it offers little protection against water or other household products. If you maintain the finish regularly with additional wax or whatever, you'll probably be alright, but I would recommend you pop the sink, strip the wax on the top surface and topcoat with something like a wiping varnish to seal out the water.
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