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Posted: 8/23/2017 11:24:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/23/2017 11:49:44 AM EST by storminnorman]
Purchased this "68 coupe in May, ROCK solid overall all been in GA since new and had two owners. The previous owner dumped a lot of money into it and rarely drove it! Full 5 lug conversion...New tires/wheels. Had a V8 8" rear installed, had it freshened up. New front suspension, Kelsey Hayes style twin piston disc, Flaming River steering box ect...Still has the straight six/C4. Plans are for an Explorer roller 302 with a new cam, would love a toploader 4spd also. Right front floor needs a half pan patch, otherwise no other welding needed, looked a long time for a body this original/solid. Best of all the cowl isn't rotted out like most! Here's a few pics, finally had time to pull the seats/carpet out and start cleaning her up. Did Chassis Saver on the left floor, when done I'll be coating the entire inside pan with Monstaliner. Frame rails are mint front to rear, body has a few small bruises. This will be a daily driver street/strip car, and will look like it was done in the "70's
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Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:33:51 AM EST
My Daughter would die to have that car.

Nice ride
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:39:56 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By TXLineman:
My Daughter would die to have that car.

Nice ride
View Quote


Thanks, my daughter wants it too! She's 10 but thinks she's 20...
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:47:11 AM EST
If the car was born an I6 / C4 it probably has 4 lug wheels. If so, here is what you are getting yourself into if you plan to do a proper V8 conversion:

1. V8 spindles
2. V8 Pitman Arm
3. V8 Idler Arm
4. V8 Center Link
5. V8 Tie Rods
6. V8 Steering Stops
7. V8 Front Brakes
8. V8 Rear Axle & Brakes
9. Appropriate brake flex hoses.
10. 5-lug wheels.
Possibly a new driveshaft and u-joints.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:50:29 AM EST
[Last Edit: 8/23/2017 11:51:33 AM EST by storminnorman]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By arjim:
If the car was born an I6 / C4 it probably has 4 lug wheels. If so, here is what you are getting yourself into if you plan to do a proper V8 conversion:

1. V8 spindles
2. V8 Pitman Arm
3. V8 Idler Arm
4. V8 Center Link
5. V8 Tie Rods
6. V8 Steering Stops
7. V8 Front Brakes
8. V8 Rear Axle & Brakes
9. Appropriate brake flex hoses.
10. 5-lug wheels.
Possibly a new driveshaft and u-joints.
View Quote


Did you read the OP, or look at the pics? (5 lug Torque Thrust)
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 11:57:52 AM EST
Do a later model EFI / 6 speed conversion. You'll NEVER regret it.  Hell, LS / T56 would be nice too.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:04:44 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ctandc:
Do a later model EFI / 6 speed conversion. You'll NEVER regret it.  Hell, LS / T56 would be nice too.
View Quote

Nah, I'm old school.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:17:20 PM EST
87-95 5.0 EFI setup bolts right in and all you need is an electronic fuel pump. Hell the gas tanks might even be transferable.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:20:34 PM EST
Here's what 3 years and a rotisserie can do to a '68 Mustang.

Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:26:10 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By storminnorman:


Did you read the OP, or look at the pics? (5 lug Torque Thrust)
View Quote
Did you read the OP? ==> "Still has the straight six/C4. Plans are for an Explorer roller 302"
With regards to the first pic ==> "will look like it was done"
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:58:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: 8/23/2017 12:59:01 PM EST by storminnorman]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By arjim:
Did you read the OP? ==> "Still has the straight six/C4. Plans are for an Explorer roller 302"
With regards to the first pic ==> "will look like it was done"
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By arjim:
Originally Posted By storminnorman:


Did you read the OP, or look at the pics? (5 lug Torque Thrust)
Did you read the OP? ==> "Still has the straight six/C4. Plans are for an Explorer roller 302"
With regards to the first pic ==> "will look like it was done"


Highlighted for you (pics are now)
Purchased this "68 coupe in May, ROCK solid overall all been in GA since new and had two owners. The previous owner dumped a lot of money into it and rarely drove it! Full 5 lug conversion...New tires/wheels. Had a V8 8" rear installed, had it freshened up. New front suspension, Kelsey Hayes style twin piston disc, Flaming River steering box ect...Still has the straight six/C4. Plans are for an Explorer roller 302 with a new cam, would love a toploader 4spd also. Right front floor needs a half pan patch, otherwise no other welding needed, looked a long time for a body this original/solid. Best of all the cowl isn't rotted out like most! Here's a few pics, finally had time to pull the seats/carpet out and start cleaning her up. Did Chassis Saver on the left floor, when done I'll be coating the entire inside pan with Monstaliner. Frame rails are mint front to rear, body has a few small bruises. This will be a daily driver street/strip car, and will look like it was done in the "70's
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 12:59:34 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By arjim:
Here's what 3 years and a rotisserie can do to a '68 Mustang.
https://tjsklassics.com/images/mustang1.jpg
https://tjsklassics.com/images/mustang2.jpg
View Quote


That is killer...
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:33:13 PM EST
T5. Old school is cool, but sometimes just wrong. Go with a T5 and use the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch conversion instead of a cable actuated. Those old Z bars wear down fast. this way you can lower the rear gear ratio for quicker acceleration but still have a good cruise RPM.

Looks like you'll have some fun with it! I need to get off my ass and finish up my last few things.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 1:41:19 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
T5. Old school is cool, but sometimes just wrong. Go with a T5 and use the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch conversion instead of a cable actuated. Those old Z bars wear down fast. this way you can lower the rear gear ratio for quicker acceleration but still have a good cruise RPM.

Looks like you'll have some fun with it! I need to get off my ass and finish up my last few things.
View Quote

May go T5, but would much rather a toploader. I live 5 minutes from Atlanta Dragway, have a Civic for long distance highway travelling.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:21:24 PM EST
I may have an 8 inch 4.11 in the shop
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:32:01 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By whiskerz:
I may have an 8 inch 4.11 in the shop
View Quote


Too steep for me, but would be fun
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:34:49 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By storminnorman:


Nah, I'm old school.
View Quote
I drove / owned / raced / built a lot of these era cars when they were cheap used cars.
"Old School"?  Solid lifter cams where you needed to adjust valves every 7 minutes. No thanks. Carburetors than ran great until the weather changed and still got shitty mileage. 4 speeds than ate synchros and gear sets like a Methhead goes through teeth. 400 HP? Sure if you want a vacuum can so your power brakes work, don't mind 9 mpg with a tailwind and don't mind a 2 second lope from the camshaft.

Shitty part? A stock late model drivetrain will make power and get better mileage.  To each his own. I am still jonesing to build a 1970-72 Vega with a LSx / T56.
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:36:10 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:39:15 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Wolfpack:
I have my best friends highschool car (he's deceased), a '68 coupe.

302 4 speed, it was a royal POS when he died in 2003, but its been restored and now gets out once a month for Sunday morning donut duty. Once my son is older we will take it out weekly I'm sure.

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/15404/20161023_081908-288365.jpg
View Quote


Nice and simple, love it!
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:46:06 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ctandc:
I drove / owned / raced / built a lot of these era cars when they were cheap used cars.
"Old School"?  Solid lifter cams where you needed to adjust valves every 7 minutes. No thanks. Carburetors than ran great until the weather changed and still got shitty mileage. 4 speeds than ate synchros and gear sets like a Methhead goes through teeth. 400 HP? Sure if you want a vacuum can so your power brakes work, don't mind 9 mpg with a tailwind and don't mind a 2 second lope from the camshaft.

Shitty part? A stock late model drivetrain will make power and get better mileage.  To each his own. I am still jonesing to build a 1970-72 Vega with a LSx / T56.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ctandc:
Originally Posted By storminnorman:


Nah, I'm old school.
I drove / owned / raced / built a lot of these era cars when they were cheap used cars.
"Old School"?  Solid lifter cams where you needed to adjust valves every 7 minutes. No thanks. Carburetors than ran great until the weather changed and still got shitty mileage. 4 speeds than ate synchros and gear sets like a Methhead goes through teeth. 400 HP? Sure if you want a vacuum can so your power brakes work, don't mind 9 mpg with a tailwind and don't mind a 2 second lope from the camshaft.

Shitty part? A stock late model drivetrain will make power and get better mileage.  To each his own. I am still jonesing to build a 1970-72 Vega with a LSx / T56.


I've owned several old cars/trucks over the years, drove many of them daily. A NEW carb set up properly doesn't need to be messed with all that often, and when adjustment is needed big deal...My car has manual disc now, I'll prob. add a Granada brake booster down the road. I swear too many people can't handle anything not electronic these days .
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 3:56:52 PM EST
Link Posted: 8/23/2017 4:03:52 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Wolfpack:
NPD and CJ's Pony Parts is where I got most of my parts from. Although Im still constantly checking Ebay even now to find stuff. Did you car happen to have the original shoulder seat belts? If so don't get rid of them, I've been searching for years......
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It has them, I live 45 minutes from Mustangs Unlimited.
Link Posted: 8/24/2017 7:28:18 AM EST
Find yourself an old school Autolite 4100 off a 390. Its a 600 cfm vs. the 490 cfm on the 289. Damned best carb I ever ran in my life. Of course being a dumbass teenager back in the early '80's, Holley was much better.
Link Posted: 8/24/2017 10:23:37 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
Find yourself an old school Autolite 4100 off a 390. Its a 600 cfm vs. the 490 cfm on the 289. Damned best carb I ever ran in my life. Of course being a dumbass teenager back in the early '80's, Holley was much better.
View Quote


Great carbs! For an intake I'll be running an original Torker 289.
Link Posted: 8/24/2017 11:55:28 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By storminnorman:


Great carbs! For an intake I'll be running an original Torker 289.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By storminnorman:
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
Find yourself an old school Autolite 4100 off a 390. Its a 600 cfm vs. the 490 cfm on the 289. Damned best carb I ever ran in my life. Of course being a dumbass teenager back in the early '80's, Holley was much better.


Great carbs! For an intake I'll be running an original Torker 289.
Unless you're building that engine to live at high RPM's, you're going to kill the bottom end. Stick with a dual plane. Look for an old Edelbrock F4B if you're trying to make power at the bottom end for street driving.
Link Posted: 8/24/2017 12:49:36 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
Unless you're building that engine to live at high RPM's, you're going to kill the bottom end. Stick with a dual plane. Look for an old Edelbrock F4B if you're trying to make power at the bottom end for street driving.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
Originally Posted By storminnorman:
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
Find yourself an old school Autolite 4100 off a 390. Its a 600 cfm vs. the 490 cfm on the 289. Damned best carb I ever ran in my life. Of course being a dumbass teenager back in the early '80's, Holley was much better.


Great carbs! For an intake I'll be running an original Torker 289.
Unless you're building that engine to live at high RPM's, you're going to kill the bottom end. Stick with a dual plane. Look for an old Edelbrock F4B if you're trying to make power at the bottom end for street driving.

I've ran the old Torkers, and dual planes both. Roller 302 with a manual has plenty of low end grunt and I don't mind the single plane on these engines. Also they have a killer style!
Link Posted: 8/24/2017 6:39:46 PM EST
Pulled the rusty tank, tossed it. Started cleaning up the trunk area, removing the original seam sealer and any loose paint/surface rust.
Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 6:34:30 AM EST
See that gap between the wheel well and the trunk floor? Ford assembled these with raw metal in there. Once you clean up rust the best you can, dribble some rust converter into that seam to help extend the life of the car. Ford was spitting these cars out like welfare babies back in the '60's. No time to make them last.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 7:04:07 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:
See that gap between the wheel well and the trunk floor? Ford assembled these with raw metal in there. Once you clean up rust the best you can, dribble some rust converter into that seam to help extend the life of the car. Ford was spitting these cars out like welfare babies back in the '60's. No time to make them last.
View Quote


They put all the seam sealer over bare metal. That's why it's getting the Chassis Saver paint first, this car will be sealed from rust very far better than when new...
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 10:19:05 AM EST
Funny OP, Im doing the exact same thing with a 68 right now. Got it from my grandpa who bought it new for my grandma and its been in the family ever since. Its a clean and straight bare ass coupe with 96k miles. I have another muscle type car for the speed so this one is just kind of a whatever driver. I'm actually keeping the I6 and C4 for now although obviously will snag a 302 and t5 if they ever fall into my lap. Im actually not a huge mustang fan mostly because everybody has one but obviously with the history of the car I wont ever sell it. It does need to be a little more fun to drive though. I just did brand new drum brakes all around until I can source an 8" rear that will match the granada discs I already have sitting on a shelf. Rebuilt the carb and the new tank will go in today as soon as I finish my coffee and arfcoming. Ive got the monte carlo and export braces plus bilstien shocks in the garage ready to go on next but didnt do new (lowering) springs yet because I hate doing things twice and if I do end up putting in a v8 those spring rates wont work.

One thing I love is parts for these are plentiful and cheap compared to A-body mopar stuff.
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 1:22:56 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sefus:
Funny OP, Im doing the exact same thing with a 68 right now. Got it from my grandpa who bought it new for my grandma and its been in the family ever since. Its a clean and straight bare ass coupe with 96k miles. I have another muscle type car for the speed so this one is just kind of a whatever driver. I'm actually keeping the I6 and C4 for now although obviously will snag a 302 and t5 if they ever fall into my lap. Im actually not a huge mustang fan mostly because everybody has one but obviously with the history of the car I wont ever sell it. It does need to be a little more fun to drive though. I just did brand new drum brakes all around until I can source an 8" rear that will match the granada discs I already have sitting on a shelf. Rebuilt the carb and the new tank will go in today as soon as I finish my coffee and arfcoming. Ive got the monte carlo and export braces plus bilstien shocks in the garage ready to go on next but didnt do new (lowering) springs yet because I hate doing things twice and if I do end up putting in a v8 those spring rates wont work.

One thing I love is parts for these are plentiful and cheap compared to A-body mopar stuff.
View Quote


Nice, any pics?
Link Posted: 8/25/2017 4:27:10 PM EST
Before you put the Monstaliner down, I would spray in some Lizard Skin heat and sound deadener. I did that on my hummer before spraying the Monstaliner and it is great. Also you can spray the Monstaliner with the same Lizard Skin gun and I found that easier than rolling it in.
Link Posted: 8/26/2017 12:17:09 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By storminnorman:


Nice, any pics?
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The green hunk of junk is the I6 car. Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 8/27/2017 5:15:35 PM EST

Put a blower or a turbo on that 6 banger.
Link Posted: 8/29/2017 1:47:18 AM EST
Exactly. The straight six on 6-8lbs of boost weighs less and makes more power at the wheels than a period correct v8. Costs less to do too.
Link Posted: 8/29/2017 7:10:00 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sefus:
Exactly. The straight six on 6-8lbs of boost weighs less and makes more power at the wheels than a period correct v8. Costs less to do too.
View Quote


The 6 is about 75lbs lighter, but that's compared to an all cast iron 289/302. As for upgrading the 6, cost far more as they're all specialty parts.
Link Posted: 8/30/2017 10:30:45 AM EST
Kind of a misnomer on the speciality parts but bare bones, with minimal machine work, turboing these inlines is really pretty simple and effective with off the shelf and junkyard parts.
Link Posted: 9/5/2017 7:57:03 PM EST
I'm with the go with a 5.0 F.I. engine crowd. I put a explorer gt40p 5.0 into a 66 fb along with a 4r70w. Had to fabricate a cowl/shock tower brackets for new shock tower struts that clear the comb over intake. Still running the 2.89 rear gear. 4r70w has lower 1-2nd gear and it accelerates fine. Took it on a 2400 mile trip and averaged 23mpg. 75 mph is about 21-2200 rpm.
Link Posted: 9/5/2017 8:52:04 PM EST
Needs coyote and a t56.
Link Posted: 9/6/2017 7:23:18 AM EST
Had to rip out the headliner, had mouse shit/piss in there. Was original with no rips...

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 9/7/2017 12:39:59 AM EST
I've got a mouse sized hole right over the passenger seat in my headliner. It was brand new. I put a one piece abs in my dart and it is freaking awesome. Won't look stock/original in a mustang but I'll be looking at using another one pretty hard when I do a carpet and headliner refresh
Link Posted: 9/7/2017 7:17:42 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sefus:
I've got a mouse sized hole right over the passenger seat in my headliner. It was brand new. I put a one piece abs in my dart and it is freaking awesome. Won't look stock/original in a mustang but I'll be looking at using another one pretty hard when I do a carpet and headliner refresh
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I'm getting the Mustangs To Fear headliner...

http://www.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=67-68&cat=interior&scat=one_piece_headliners&prod=one_piece_headliner_coupe
Link Posted: 9/7/2017 6:13:02 PM EST
Very nice. You'll love it.
Link Posted: 9/7/2017 7:02:36 PM EST
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Pricy, but damned well worth the cost. MTF puts out very high quality products. And the owner is one hell of a great guy.
Link Posted: 9/7/2017 7:39:53 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ScottsGT:


Pricy, but damned well worth the cost. MTF puts out very high quality products. And the owner is one hell of a great guy.
View Quote


Good to know
Link Posted: 9/8/2017 4:38:13 PM EST
Got the outer body cleaned up/preserved. She'll be wearing this patina for a while...Now back to the inside.

Attachment Attached File

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Link Posted: 9/9/2017 10:55:02 AM EST
Great looking ride! 

I'm paying off too much card debt atm, but plan to send my 66 GT off for a rotisserie when I get some pennies saved 
Link Posted: 9/9/2017 11:33:00 AM EST
Mine took a bit longer to fix up - and I had to take it to a shop to finish it 

Link Posted: 9/18/2017 1:24:51 PM EST
Started cleaning up the underside a bit. Preserving so it can be driven and stay solid until restored someday. Scotch Brite and wire brushed any light rust, then used rust converter and reformer. Rear frame rails are mint, thank God they were galvanized!
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Link Posted: 10/30/2017 2:43:30 PM EST
so hows this coming along?
Link Posted: 11/11/2017 6:17:37 PM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By sefus:
so hows this coming along?
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Was coming along great, until a father/son stopped by when I was working on it and REALLY wanted it! They wanted it for twice what I had in it, and the son was going against all his import friends with old school American iron. I'm happy with the decision, working on my Mack truck project now
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