Ok, here's the deal. Recently when shifting into gear (usualy fourth, but sometimes others) it seems that it will pop back out of gear. So when I go to accelerate after shifting, the engine just revs, and I have to shift back into gear.

Now I thought it may have just been that I forgot how to drive a stick and wasn't actually getting it in gear. Until today when I was driving down a hill and got to the bottom and went to push on the gas and it suddenly wasn't in gear (I hadn't shifted while coasting down hill).

Now it hasn't (so far) popped out of gear while under pressure. Just when shifting between gears, and once after coasting down hill.

And also, I had the clutch replaced about 6000 miles ago, and it's got 110,000 miles on it.

Anybody think this might be something other than my transmission? Please tell me yes.

if you go offroading, there might be something blocking the linkage.

i'd asy it's transmission, sorry.

how long does it stay in gear before it pops out?

Its the synchros not lining up correctly.

I had this same problem with a mitsubishi tranny. Mine was a main bearing and seal problem. Forth gear is the most forward gear on the bottom shaft of the tranny. If the main bearing and seal goes the shaft is able to slide forward and back a little. This movement allows the car to pop out of gear. This will require the tranny to be pulled and parts to be replaced.


Guncrazy223
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Some people are only alive because its illegal to kill them.

Guncrazy maybe right, but don't over look the shift detents, you can accsess them from the top of you tranny with out pulling it, they are little balls with springs, maybe synkrolls, maybe detents, but to pull the tranny you have to take the shifter out anyway, so pull the top cover and look to the detents, good luck!

the diffence between quasi mechanic and full on mechanic is my post and guncrazy's post.

hehe

i know a bit about 4x4's

offroad and guncrazy both posted things worth looking at. the linkage doesn't sound like what your problem is, though. usually, bad motor/tranny mount will cauase a "pull" on the linkage if the gas pedal is stomped or quickly backed off of...not likely to happen when just cruising along.

i tend to agree with guncrazy. your may be losing a bearing and the shafts (main and lay) are shifting in relation to each other. have you noticed your tranny making any weird noises lately?

No strange sounds. And like I said before, it really doesn't do this under load.

As a matter of fact, it pretty much just seems to do it when shifting, and usually from third to fourth gears, if this helps. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Bad synchro.Symptoms are classic.

I concur with the synchronizer diagnosis.

I'm going to have to jump on the syncros band wagon popping out of gear is a classic symptom.

First of all, Toyota tranny linkage is internal, not external. If it's a four cylinder, you need you're trans overhauled. Make sure they replace BOTH bushings,the one on the shifter,and the one in the shifter tower, so you can have a nice tight tranny when they're done overhauling it. Toyota 4 cylinder tranny's are notorious for going bad after 100,000 miles. They're are all new syncros, and updated gears to fix it.

Has no problems with binding or going into gear, when it's not popping out of (or not going into, whichever is the case) gear. And it doesn't happen all the time, but am afraid it will get worse.

I'm more of a para-mechanic, than a quasi-mechanic, but for what it's worth, it sounds like synchros However ALWAYS rule out the easy stuff first like linkage binding, bumping or obstruction.  Start simple and move up

It's a 93 Toyota 4X4 pickup.

I AM A TOYOTA MASTER TECH, 15yr;
Synchronizer will not cause pop out, synchro is a braking device to match gear speed to shaft speed so locking collar can slide onto the mating teeth on the gear (no gear clash/smooth shift). The shift linkage on the "W 5X" family of trans is internal.
First:::is the shifter positive in finding the appropriate gate, (1-2 and 3-4 and 5-R),no excessive slop? First thing to do is lift the shifter out of it's pivot-ball socket. You will need to remove the shifter boot. Then you should see a cap stamped from steel that the shifter pass's thru into trans. Push down and turn that cap, remove shifter. Look at the bore, there should be a nylon socket, usually green, some are blue. Is it fallen apart or cup shaped? These wear, especially when older. Have to replace the housing, can't buy the bushing. I take bushing out of the new, install it to old housing. Don't have to deal with getting at housing in the truck to change it.

Other will be internal M/T problem, worn collar-hub-keys, excess gear lash on the shaft,or worn brg or bushing. Go with the shifter inspect first.  Mail me your finding.

If it was a motorcycle I could help. Two different animals. Cars are syncromesh, bikes are constant mesh. Way better system. Can shift without the clutch, under power.All the shifting is in a straight line.
Car trannys have evolved for the idiots behind the wheel. JMHO
BP

Hey SBR7_11, tell your back counter guy to order part# 33505-35020. That's the green/black bushing for the shifter housing.

Thanks, we will look that # up on our system.
[url] www.airtoy.com[/url]  

Checked on our system, is available seperate, we have one on the shelf, retails just less than
$13.

Many thanks goe out to SBR7_11! Got it right on the money. And those detailed instructions on how to get to that part helped quite a bit as well.

SBR7_11, I can't thank you enough! Thanks to your info, I was saved the hassle of taking my truck in to have it looked at (down time at work), and maybe having it misdiagnosed and charged an arm and a leg for repairs that weren't needed.

A cheap easy fix that I was able to do myself. It don't get much better than that. And here I was worried that I was going to have to get a tranny rebuilt! What a relief.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.