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Posted: 12/7/2003 10:44:47 PM EDT
I LOVE my M1A(preban)and I recently have come to the conclusion that IMO,USGI synthetic stocks are superior to wood in every way(except for looks).How many of you M1A owners have made the switch?And why?


poll forthcoming....
Link Posted: 12/7/2003 11:00:22 PM EDT
[#1]
Get Both.If I'm going to the range I put on my tiger stripe birch stock.If it's off to the woods for bambi then on goes the synthetic.
Link Posted: 12/7/2003 11:16:08 PM EDT
[#2]
An M14 just has a classic look if it has a wood stock.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 12:09:26 AM EDT
[#3]
Set the wood stock on fire. It don't like heavy volumes of out going .308 too much. The new synthetic holds up good. Now if I could just find a scope mount that didn't shoot loose every 2,000 rounds. (B-Square, Springfield, Brookefield Precision) all let me down.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 12:26:59 AM EDT
[#4]
Both [:D]




[devil]
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 3:53:04 AM EDT
[#5]
my wood stock is very nice, so I removed it and put on a surplus GI synthetic after filling in the selector cut-out and applying some paint.

seen here in this BF pic:

[img]http://photos.ar15.com/ImageGallery/Attachments/DownloadAttach.asp?iImageUnq=13348[/img]

Link Posted: 12/8/2003 4:01:14 AM EDT
[#6]
Practically speaking, the synthetic stocks are superior, but I like the traditional wood stocks.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 4:55:16 AM EDT
[#7]
I love the look of the wood stock but it is original winchester that came with the kit and has a beautiful finish and all the nice cartouches. I got a couple of synthetics from fred's and did em up in woodland and winter camo. I dont have to worry about it getting knocked about in the safe or when out and about...
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 6:35:54 AM EDT
[#8]
I have both...love the wood for the refined/presentation look and I have a synthetic -whamocamo Tricolor desert stock for my field work.

Buy the wood stock and then buy a whamo camo or Karsten camo stock after...only run you about $125 or so
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 6:40:43 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Set the wood stock on fire. It don't like heavy volumes of out going .308 too much. The new synthetic holds up good. Now if I could just find a scope mount that didn't shoot loose every 2,000 rounds. (B-Square, Springfield, Brookefield Precision) all let me down.
View Quote


Young padawan, a little teflon tape goes a long way.

Try it.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 6:45:11 AM EDT
[#10]
Are you saying use teflon tape instead of loctite? I assume you mean on the threads of the mounting screws....not wrapped around the scope and the mount...lol
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 7:55:57 AM EDT
[#11]
both.

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/049393.JPG[/img]
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 8:24:02 AM EDT
[#12]
I also have birch and walnut stocks for my M1A.And as I 1st posted;I love the look ans feel of wood;I just believe that the synthetic(as you all have agreed)is more durableand forgiving.I USED to think they were ugly.NOW,I think they(synthetic)appear more practical.


btw,I have suffered no loss in accuracy by changingto synthetic either(3/8"@100yds)

What's the deal?Why do most here post that thier M1A prints 4-5"@100 when I am acheiving sub MOA@100yds?I am a exellent marksman,but by no means the best there is and don't claim to be.Am I just lucky to have a rifle that does so well?SURELY SOMEONE here has a M1A that is a MOA(or sub-MOA) weapon.I KNOW I am not alone.SPEAK UP!!!!!
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 8:52:23 AM EDT
[#13]
I don't have one but was able to fondle both the wood and synthetic stocks at a local dealer and found that the synthetic was narrower than the wood stock. It was easier for me to reach the trigger (small hands) with the synthetic. Don't know if this a factor, but when I eventually get an M1A I'll get it with the synthetic stock.

CW
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 9:20:40 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
I also have birch and walnut stocks for my M1A.And as I 1st posted;I love the look ans feel of wood;I just believe that the synthetic(as you all have agreed)is more durableand forgiving.I USED to think they were ugly.NOW,I think they(synthetic)appear more practical.


btw,I have suffered no loss in accuracy by changingto synthetic either(3/8"@100yds)

View Quote


You get 3/8" groups with open sights?

If that's true I'm very impressed. I would think 4 inch groups is not to bad for an M1A with open sights and surplus ammo.

I shoot Israeli surplus and probably average 3-4 inches. I'm sure it's capable of better if I used some match ammo and a scope.

I love my M1A with synthetic stock. I like the more modern look of the black synth stock.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 9:21:51 AM EDT
[#15]
Synthetic. I like the looks of it.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 9:52:24 AM EDT
[#16]
Synthetic on both of mine.

Sell Walnut stock on equipment exchange for $100.00.  Buy $12.00 surplus stock from Fred's. Fill in the selector cutout with JB Weld. Paint with Krylon to match you AO. Spend left over $80.00 on Beer. Life is good.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:07:22 AM EDT
[#17]
Doesn't synthetic stock crack easily? I mean I like the looks of synthetic better but I don't have one so I have no idea.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:09:00 AM EDT
[#18]
Another home camo job with a cheapo syn from Fred's:

[img]http://www.hunt101.com/img/077645.JPG[/img]
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:28:53 AM EDT
[#19]
I shoot with synthetic but I do like the look of the birch stocks. I have both, I may put mine in wood this weekend and see if I notice any accuracy difference.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:40:27 AM EDT
[#20]
For a rack grade rifle. wood vs. synthetic is unlikely to make a huge difference since there is enough imprecision in the rest of the system that weather related swelling, contraction and warping in the wood stock won't matter at all.

In an NM type riflea USGI fiberglass stock has a bit of a disadvantage because of the flexibility in the forend of the stock allowing sling tension to have a significant effect on bullet impact. Gus Fisher, formerly of the USMC MU Rifle Shop and currently very active over at Culver's Shooting Pages. used to stiffen the forends of USGI stocks by bedding steel rods into them, that and a lot of other work to improve the fit of stock to action could result in a USGI fiberglass stock that shot as well as a USGI match prepped wood stock.  But the USMC figured out that for maximum match accuracy you were better off buying a McMillan fiberglass stock.

For a field/combat grade weapon, I would invariably go with fiberglass.  For an occasional use rifle where style is more important than function, get some real sweet wood. If you just have to have wood for a competition rifle, get walnut, it's more weather stable.  Birch is an acceptable substitute, when bedded. For a full on, hope to go distinguished match rifle...get an AR, but if you must shoot a .30 cal, put a McMillan fiberglass stock on it and take weather completely out of the equation.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:40:52 AM EDT
[#21]
I think Bell & Carlson make a M1A stock from fiberglass that looks like walnut. Its available from Lock, & Stock & Barrel.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:50:41 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
I also have birch and walnut stocks for my M1A.And as I 1st posted;I love the look ans feel of wood;I just believe that the synthetic(as you all have agreed)is more durableand forgiving.I USED to think they were ugly.NOW,I think they(synthetic)appear more practical.


btw,I have suffered no loss in accuracy by changingto synthetic either(3/8"@100yds)

What's the deal?Why do most here post that thier M1A prints 4-5"@100 when I am acheiving sub MOA@100yds?I am a exellent marksman,but by no means the best there is and don't claim to be.Am I just lucky to have a rifle that does so well?SURELY SOMEONE here has a M1A that is a MOA(or sub-MOA) weapon.I KNOW I am not alone.SPEAK UP!!!!!
View Quote


Okay, I have a wood stock on mine.  (There.  I've answered the question.)

Now I have one for you.

I am certainly not calling you a liar.  I just need to understand what it is exactly that you are saying, please.

Are you saying that you [b]routinely[/b] get 3/8 inch groups at 100 yards?

What ammo are you shooting?  Are you using a scope?

Thanks.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 11:00:11 AM EDT
[#23]


Warning Warning Warning

New Guy Question:

What is the difference between an M1A and an M14?  One is selective fire?

I love the M1 but never fired the M1A.

Please forgive my ignorance.


Link Posted: 12/8/2003 11:08:34 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:


Warning Warning Warning

New Guy Question:

What is the difference between an M1A and an M14?  One is selective fire?

I love the M1 but never fired the M1A.

Please forgive my ignorance.


View Quote


You are correct sir! The M1A is the civilian (semi-auto) version of the military M14 (full-auto/select fire).
I'll be getting a synthetic stock M1A when I finally get one this coming year myself.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 11:46:37 AM EDT
[#25]


Dammit!  Already addicted to AR15s and now I'm getting and itch for an MIA!  They look sooooo nice in the different configurations.  This is not fair!  Two addictions could be hazardous to my marriage.  


Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:19:08 PM EDT
[#26]
3 shots = 1/2" best I have ever done.

1-2" about average at 100 yards for 5 shots
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:29:37 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I also have birch and walnut stocks for my M1A.And as I 1st posted;I love the look ans feel of wood;I just believe that the synthetic(as you all have agreed)is more durableand forgiving.I USED to think they were ugly.NOW,I think they(synthetic)appear more practical.


btw,I have suffered no loss in accuracy by changingto synthetic either(3/8"@100yds)

What's the deal?Why do most here post that thier M1A prints 4-5"@100 when I am acheiving sub MOA@100yds?I am a exellent marksman,but by no means the best there is and don't claim to be.Am I just lucky to have a rifle that does so well?SURELY SOMEONE here has a M1A that is a MOA(or sub-MOA) weapon.I KNOW I am not alone.SPEAK UP!!!!!
View Quote


Okay, I have a wood stock on mine.  (There.  I've answered the question.)

Now I have one for you.

I am certainly not calling you a liar.  I just need to understand what it is exactly that you are saying, please.

Are you saying that you [b]routinely[/b] get 3/8 inch groups at 100 yards?

What ammo are you shooting?  Are you using a scope?

Thanks.
View Quote



hey I understand.no problem.from the bench I can routinely achieve anywhere from 3/8" to 1"@100yds from the bench.using Federal gold match.Iron sights.no scope(too much jitter)

@600yds the rifle is capable of keeping 10 rounds(federal gold match) within the 8 ring or better.(when I'm doing my part).I was taught to do this;as i thought that kind of shooting was impossible without a scope.(the bullseye appears the as the same size in your sight picture @600as it does @100yds).

I have been shooting since I was 5.been target shooting since I was 8.It's one of the few things that I have a natural ability for.I am blessed to have 20/20 vision and a steady aim.I HATE having to say all this stuff like this in an attempt to justify myself cause it just comes across wrong to alot of people who might think I am arrogant or FOS.I am blessed to do what I can do and I hope I can do it for the rest of my life and I don't and have NEVER thought I was anyone special in any way.I am proud to be able to shoot as well as I do but that doesn't make me anybody special.There are PLENTY of people who can outshoot me any day,anytime,anyplace.I am happy doing the best I can and try to do better.HTH
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:32:23 PM EDT
[#28]
Actually, the M1A is the Springfield Trademark name.  There are many different M14's out there that are not select fire.  Of course, they have some kind of additional lettering like the M14K, M14S, Armscorp M14 NM.  

Personally, I like the Armscorp M14 NM or M21 that they make.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:34:15 PM EDT
[#29]
Oh, on the subject of Synthetic/Wood......Synthetic all the way!  I like wood stocks for presentation, but I like the Synthetic better when shooting.

I know this'll be flamed but I recently saw a Desert MARPAT camo-M14 synthetic stock/handguard set on Ebay!  IT WAS SWEEET!

Does anyone know who does the MARPAT camo paint jobs?  The one I found on Ebay was Desert but I'd like a WOODLAND MARPAT set!
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:37:17 PM EDT
[#30]
I have both, The GI Plastic shoots better. I still prefer the wood; It just feels right!
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:42:35 PM EDT
[#31]
I have both.  A nice GI walnut with decent cartouche, and a desert camo'd fiberglass.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:46:13 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
I have both.  A nice GI walnut with decent cartouche, and a desert camo'd fiberglass.
View Quote


exellent.it seems like most of you have BOTH and think alike on this topic.that's great.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 2:51:42 PM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have both.  A nice GI walnut with decent cartouche, and a desert camo'd fiberglass.
View Quote


exellent.it seems like most of you have BOTH and think alike on this topic.that's great.
View Quote


Sparrowhawk if you want the best of both.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 4:07:51 PM EDT
[#34]
Sparrowhawk also sells fake selector shafts to occupy that cut-out in the stock. I have one on my birch and one on my synthetic. Cheesy? Maybe, but it looks cool as hell and quite a bit better than some of the "filler" jobs I've seen done.


Wood for looks. Synthetic for practicality.

Link Posted: 12/8/2003 5:03:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:
Synthetic on both of mine.

Sell Walnut stock on equipment exchange for $100.00.  Buy $12.00 surplus stock from Fred's. Fill in the selector cutout with JB Weld. Paint with Krylon to match you AO. Spend left over $80.00 on Beer. Life is good.
View Quote



[b]Word.[/b]

Except I used short-strand reinforced body filler instead of JB Weld to fill in the selector cut-out and refinished it with spray-on truck bed liner from Wal-Mart...

Other than that, same-same.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:28:18 PM EDT
[#36]
heck,I just leave the hole like it is.I might get the fake selector switch to make it look cool,but it really don't bother me either way.
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 10:55:40 PM EDT
[#37]
Found that MARPAT stock again!  If no one else want's it, I'mma take it!

[img]http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/d2/80/d0_3.JPG[/img]
Link Posted: 12/8/2003 11:40:54 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:
Found that MARPAT stock again!  If no one else want's it, I'mma take it!

[url]http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/d2/80/d0_3.JPG[/url]
View Quote


DAMMIT!  Just as I was going to BUY IT NOW, someone beat me to it!  Damn you!  I know you saw it from here and snaked me!  Damn you to hell!!
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 6:20:24 AM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:
Found that MARPAT stock again!  If no one else want's it, I'mma take it!

[url]http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/00/d2/80/d0_3.JPG[/url]
View Quote


better secure that trigger group, could prove to be deadly for you!!!
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 6:29:56 AM EDT
[#40]
I like the look of wood better but mine has a synthetic stock. I think they are more practical. I don't have any issue with scope mounts coming loose because I use the iron sights.
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 6:53:22 AM EDT
[#41]
I was happy with the original oversized walnut that came with it...with no selector hole.
When the GI bi-pod is added, the feet drag on the forestock [nono].
The cure...a $10 fiberglass GI stock, which just stays on anymore, with the beautiful walnut put away.
I want an E-2 stock, but they cost as much as the gun should!
My earlier SA shot bullseyes @ 100 yds., iron sights, GI 1969 ammo, right out of the box...no adjustments needed.
I even impressed myself!
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 2:53:07 PM EDT
[#42]
that's what i was waitin to here.

SEE y'all,someone else has a accurate M1A.

It's good to see that other folks are getting good results out of thier M1A.




I KNEW I wasn't alone.
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 3:40:22 PM EDT
[#43]
What paints do you use on a synth stock? Is there any special prep to the stock?

I could mix a paint bomb (urethane and talc to flatten)with a harding agent. That should make a tough, non-glare finish that would last.

I did it to my flight helmets and they take a beating.
Link Posted: 12/9/2003 10:23:48 PM EDT
[#44]
I used Krylon...The Paint From Hell.

Wash it down good with dish soap (the grease cutting kind) and let it dry completely.  Dont handle it with your skin if you can help it.

I did 6 light coats, allowing an hour between each, and then 48hrs before I touched it again.  Rubbed it down with a cloth to take the paint "fuzz" off it.
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