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Posted: 8/17/2006 3:53:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2006 4:22:29 PM EDT by die-tryin]
I wanna lock up the rear of my Blazer. Im researching what I wanna get.

Ive already decided I want a simple approach, no Air lockers or eletronic lockers.

So, im goin with Detroit or Loc-Rite.

The detroit is a whole replacement carrier and is beefed up unit

The loc-rite fits in existing carrier and is only as strong as it is.

The Detroit cost w/ Pinon bearings $638.58

The loc-rite cost $271 no need to change bearings.

The loc-rite will install a lil easier than the detroit

Both lockers function exactly the same.

I dont plan to do mudbogs or rockcrawling and will stick with 32-33" tires. This isnt a DD, but will always treat it as if it is, incase I do need it as a DD.

Jus curious what anyones thoughts on these, I have no experience with lockers at all.

For those that vote for MADCOW, Thanks.
Link Posted: 8/17/2006 5:00:43 PM EDT
I've ran one of these in a 10 bolt before I put a 9" under my Firebird. Was easy to put in from what I remember, it was a while ago. Inbetween the Detroit and Loc-rite in price.

Powertrax locker
Link Posted: 8/17/2006 5:10:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ManiacRat461:
I've ran one of these in a 10 bolt before I put a 9" under my Firebird. Was easy to put in from what I remember, it was a while ago. Inbetween the Detroit and Loc-rite in price.

Powertrax locker


I think that is the one I looked at about a year ago, it actually uses springs and clutches (which can wear out over time). Plus it cost in the middle of both my choices, its an option anyways.
Link Posted: 8/17/2006 5:31:56 PM EDT
For your application, the Loc-Rite should be more than adequate. I have dealt with a few in GM 10 bolt axles without many problems. Of course the Detroit is a much stronger unit, but with you tire size and intended use, the lunchbox (Loc-Rite) should suffice.

Maybe you should throw the Loc-rite and a good set of hubs in the front axle, and the Detroit in the back? Think of the fun you could have then! I guarantee you will get good at replacing axle shafts then..lol
Link Posted: 8/17/2006 6:00:47 PM EDT

Originally Posted By die-tryin:

Originally Posted By ManiacRat461:
I've ran one of these in a 10 bolt before I put a 9" under my Firebird. Was easy to put in from what I remember, it was a while ago. Inbetween the Detroit and Loc-rite in price.

Powertrax locker


I think that is the one I looked at about a year ago, it actually uses springs and clutches (which can wear out over time). Plus it cost in the middle of both my choices, its an option anyways.



the powertrax no-slip doesn't have clutches that wear out. all the no-slip is, is basically the cream of the crop of "lunchbox" lockers. same basic operation as the lockrite.


go with the detroit.


btw the detroit is QUITE a bit different in operation and action than a lunchbox locker like the lockrite.


the detroit is locked ALL THE TIME . the lockrite, and lockers like it, lock UNDER A LOAD.

in the rear of your vehicle, the detroit will have much better on road behavior. a lunchbox locker in the rear can make for some interesting lane changes (involuntarily) on slick roads.

Link Posted: 8/17/2006 6:33:09 PM EDT
Detroit locker all the way.
Link Posted: 8/17/2006 9:08:23 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/17/2006 9:54:47 PM EDT by CSM]
The Detroit is a good unit. I have a TrueTrac in the back of my Ram. I love it for the street and it gives up very little off road. (edit, at least for what I do)
Link Posted: 8/17/2006 9:13:58 PM EDT
Detroit. Do it once and do it right.


if you did go with a lunchbox locker I'd say get the Aussie locker.
Link Posted: 8/18/2006 12:03:44 AM EDT

Originally Posted By arfreak74:
the detroit is locked ALL THE TIME .


Huh?
That would be a SPOOL.
Link Posted: 8/18/2006 12:18:48 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/18/2006 12:30:47 AM EDT by chrome1]
Go with the Loc-Rite , the 10 bolt GM 8.5" rear isn't strong enough
to waste putting a lot of money into . The Loc-Rite will eliminate
the side gears which is one of the weak points .

Yeah the Detroit is a much stronger unit but you're still stuck
with smaller diameter axles and the smaller carrier bearings of the
8.5" .

Of course you didn't say what year blazer so I'm guessing you have the
later model 8.5" and not the smaller units that came in the S/T-10 and
were even weaker
Link Posted: 8/18/2006 1:32:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/18/2006 1:34:54 AM EDT by DBerk]
This forum has grown this is ALOT of posts for what 8 hours? I have a bronco thats getting a Limited slip put in front and rear, the guy whos doing it Suggested it and hes a gear man, but this one DOESNT use plates it uses gears I think its from the makers of the Detriot, but its a lil late and I cant remember, but he suggested no slips because we told him it was gonna be a DD and they act just like lockers I guess all you have to do it put it 1st and give it some throtel and it locks.. or it locks when you need it. just an idea.. someone correct me if im wrong

ETA Chrome1 hes running a fullsize K5 its early 80s Carberatued so before 85?
Link Posted: 8/18/2006 2:42:33 AM EDT
Thanks guys. My blazer is 84 with 8.5 10 bolt. Ive already updated with chromoloy axles and all new seals and ujoints.
Link Posted: 8/18/2006 7:17:23 AM EDT
Get the Loc-Rite. The detroit is nice, but it's stronger than the 10-bolt and cost a shit load more plus it's a lot harder to instal.
Link Posted: 8/18/2006 2:12:05 PM EDT
I vote for neither. That 8.5" 10 bolt isn't going to live a long life with a locker.

If you have to lock it, I'd vote for the loc-rite. I have one in my dana 60 front and it's good.

Link Posted: 8/19/2006 6:43:55 AM EDT
The Powertrax Lock-Right functions using the same principles as the Detroit Locker does. It is locked up in normal operation which can give you wild handling driving on low traction roads and unlocks only when you are going around a corner when the outside tire over-runs the inside. Unless you are running a high horsepower application with enough traction to do damage, the Lock-Right will be just fine for the considerable cost savings.
Link Posted: 8/19/2006 7:48:35 AM EDT
yeah I think im goin to go with the loc-rite. I think ill have them install it next week when they mount up my bumpers.
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 6:23:02 PM EDT

Originally Posted By jtw2:
Detroit. Do it once and do it right.


if you did go with a lunchbox locker I'd say get the Aussie locker.




i have blown mine up twice. i wouldnt put an aussie locker under a full size truck again.
Link Posted: 8/20/2006 10:25:08 PM EDT

Originally Posted By chrome1:
Go with the Loc-Rite , the 10 bolt GM 8.5" rear isn't strong enough
to waste putting a lot of money into
. The Loc-Rite will eliminate
the side gears which is one of the weak points .

Yeah the Detroit is a much stronger unit but you're still stuck
with smaller diameter axles and the smaller carrier bearings of the
8.5" .

Of course you didn't say what year blazer so I'm guessing you have the
later model 8.5" and not the smaller units that came in the S/T-10 and
were even weaker


I agree, I wouldn't waste a good detroit on a GM 10 bolt.

Now the Sterling 10.5 in my superduty, that's a different story.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 2:53:40 AM EDT
Most people will never stress a 10 bolt in a Blazer.
Link Posted: 8/22/2006 12:01:20 PM EDT
I dont have any experience with the detroit locker but have with the lock right locker. I had a 1992 Ford F150 2 wheel drive that I installed one ( actually 3) of them into the truck. truck was stock ftruck with inline 6. I installed the lock right locker into the open diff rear. The unit worked fine for about 25Kto 30K miles then it started to slip/ unlock. What was happenning was the teeth from locking and unlocking would start to chip. Like I said I went thru 3 of these. My driving was almost all on-road driving, I wanted better traction for the winters in PA. The MFG replaced the first one under warranty but I had to pay for the 3rd one I installed.
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