Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 1/15/2006 4:20:37 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/19/2006 6:06:00 AM EST by Valkyrie]
Decided that the 25-20 dollars for a stock weight is crazy. I have a few hundred pounds of clean metal, an electric pot. I just need an accurate casting to make a mold in some damp sand. Any ideas?
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:24:38 PM EST

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
Decided that the 25-20 dollars for a stock weight is crazy. I have a few hundred pounds of clean metal, an electric pot. I just need an accurate casting to make a mold in some damp sand. Any ideas?



Borrow one from somebody that already bought it.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:25:54 PM EST
Good idea, but I dont know anyone close who has one..
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:26:09 PM EST
Just tie a bunch of fishing weights to the rear sling swivel.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:27:46 PM EST
Cast the hole with plaster, then use that to form your sand.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:28:07 PM EST
You just need something that has the approximate shape so you can create a mold to cast to, is that right? Can you cut something to the right shape/size? Wood or some other material?
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:29:26 PM EST
I did this a few years ago.

I put a plastic bag in the cavity and filled it with plaster of paris. Pulled it out and made a mold out of 1.25 aluminum angle on an aluminum plate. I used aluminum foil to cover the gaps. I then held the nose up with a few washers and filled it with lead. I wound up casting somewhere between 50 and 100 of them.

SRM
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:30:23 PM EST

Originally Posted By slash-5:
Cast the hole with plaster, then use that to form your sand.



How would I get the plaster to release easily?
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:31:29 PM EST
i filled mine with #8 lead shot and closed the door.
it was plenty heavy.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:31:37 PM EST

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:

Originally Posted By slash-5:
Cast the hole with plaster, then use that to form your sand.



How would I get the plaster to release easily?



Line the hole with wax paper?
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:32:14 PM EST

Originally Posted By SRM:
I did this a few years ago.

I put a plastic bag in the cavity and filled it with plaster of paris. Pulled it out and made a mold out of 1.25 aluminum angle on an aluminum plate. I used aluminum foil to cover the gaps. I then held the nose up with a few washers and filled it with lead. I wound up casting somewhere between 50 and 100 of them.

SRM



Im confused? You used a bag with plaster then used aluminum angle? Elaborate some more?
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 4:56:46 PM EST
Plaster sounds messy.
Why not use a sheet of saran wrap as a liner and fill the hole with Play-Doh. The saran wrap will keep the PD from sticking to the inside.....unwrap and voila' , you've got a mold.
Put the PD in the oven if you want it hard like plaster.

I've never tried this , but it seems like an easier way , plus you won't have to explain what all that white stuff is all over your rifle.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 5:44:10 PM EST
I just filled mine with lead shot and compressed a piece of closed cell foam over the trap door end to seal it.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 5:46:26 PM EST
What for?
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 5:52:34 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pangea:
What for?



Target rifle. More mass = less movement.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 5:53:43 PM EST

Originally Posted By Pangea:
What for?



To add weight/balance.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 5:56:16 PM EST
I bought one for $10 in a junk box at a gun shop that sold only "fine hunting arms".
They had no fucking clue what it was.
Link Posted: 1/15/2006 6:08:40 PM EST

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted By Pangea:
What for?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
then Sniper_wolf:

To add weight/balance.


My understanding, and I am not a high-power competitor, is that the buttstock weight is to balance the weight under the handguards. The handguard mass is what lowers the first "swing" mode, making for a more stable firing platform. The buttstock weight is semi-required to balance out the rifle. The buttstock mass by itself would be somewhat pointless.

I am open to correction by someone with more experience in this matter, however.
Link Posted: 1/16/2006 5:33:56 AM EST
I used the bag with plaster to get the 3-dimensional shape of the cavity. I put the dried plaster on the aluminum sheet and went around the perimeter with a sharpie. I used the sharpie lines as construction lines for attaching the aluminum angle. Actually, I covered the lines with the angle to make sure the wedge would be small enough to fit the cavity. IIRC I used pop rivets to attach the angle to the sheet. Then I lined the mold with aluminum foil to seal it. The nose of the wedge is thinner than the base, so I used a few washers under the nose of the mold. I would pour to a scribed line on the angle. I used aluminum because lead doesn't stick to it and it is easier to bring up to temperature. I would pour one, take it outside and dump it in the snow and pour another. I found some in the spring when the snow bank melted.

SRM

The play dough idea would work too...

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 5:47:53 AM EST
[Last Edit: 1/16/2006 5:50:58 AM EST by pv74]
Yup... most HP shooters have them.
Makes it easier to hold the rifle in the standing postion as the rifle is not front heavy ,but evenly ballanced.

Some guys like to put weights under the handguards, but I think that is going overboard.

Also..be damned carefull with molten lead. The slightest bit of moisture (damp casting spoon or a drop of water falling into your pot) and your pot could explode, leaving molten metal all over your face...



Originally Posted By home_with_kids:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally Posted By Pangea:
What for?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
then Sniper_wolf:

To add weight/balance.


My understanding, and I am not a high-power competitor, is that the buttstock weight is to balance the weight under the handguards. The handguard mass is what lowers the first "swing" mode, making for a more stable firing platform. The buttstock weight is semi-required to balance out the rifle. The buttstock mass by itself would be somewhat pointless.

I am open to correction by someone with more experience in this matter, however.

Link Posted: 1/16/2006 5:53:23 AM EST
Just oil the inside of the cavity and pour the plaster in. Plaster won't stick. Or, oil and use clay/play doh. Then make a mold out of plaster and you can re-use it all you want...
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 6:07:27 AM EST
Okay used plaster to cast the buttstock cavity and it worked well. Not I need ideas to make a mold.

I was thinking damp sand in a bucket.. maybe clay mold.. Any ideas?
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 6:16:49 AM EST

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
Okay used plaster to cast the buttstock cavity and it worked well. Not I need ideas to make a mold.

I was thinking damp sand in a bucket.. maybe clay mold.. Any ideas?



Don't use damp (as in water) sand. Casting sand (as I recall) has an oil base to it.

Take it for what it's worth, as I have not done any sand casting since my school days.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:12:08 AM EST

Originally Posted By Waldo:

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
Okay used plaster to cast the buttstock cavity and it worked well. Not I need ideas to make a mold.

I was thinking damp sand in a bucket.. maybe clay mold.. Any ideas?



Don't use damp (as in water) sand. Casting sand (as I recall) has an oil base to it.

Take it for what it's worth, as I have not done any sand casting since my school days.



Dampen sand with some light motor oil?
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:14:40 AM EST
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 8:31:31 AM EST


The safer types of casting sand are silica mixed with oil, sometimes clay or a type of resin.

Just trying to steer you away from a possible explosion.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:03:19 AM EST
I'm thinking I can make a mold of plaster. Wrapping the original in saran wrap and making a mold using a shoe box as a form?
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 9:06:51 AM EST

Originally Posted By hk940:
i filled mine with #8 lead shot and closed the door.
it was plenty heavy.



+1
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 12:23:17 PM EST
Lead shot souds great but what happens if the door pops open accidentally or something like that!

Link Posted: 1/19/2006 12:26:48 PM EST

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
Decided that the 25-20 dollars for a stock weight is crazy. I have a few hundred pounds of clean metal, an electric pot. I just need an accurate casting to make a mold in some damp sand. Any ideas?



Guess you now know why they can charge $20 bucks for a stock weight?

Link Posted: 1/19/2006 12:40:57 PM EST

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
I'm thinking I can make a mold of plaster. Wrapping the original in saran wrap and making a mold using a shoe box as a form?



I tried that first. Plaster retains enough water that I would advise against it. Plus, the product is very rough.

This is the reason I went with aluminum angle attached to an aluminum base plate. Steel would work as well, just coat the mold with soapstone as a release agent.

SRM
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 3:11:36 PM EST

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
Lead shot souds great but what happens if the door pops open accidentally or something like that!




opens accidentally?

i have to open mine with a screwdriver.
no way it is ever just going to pop open.
but if it troubles you just fill it full and dribble a little candle wax on the shot to seal them in.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:19:55 PM EST
Dampen the shot lightly, with water with a few drops of dish soap. Pour it in. Holding barrel down pour in some 50/50 diluted white glue, artists matte medium, etc. Tap it several times so it settles in, the glue/matte medium will bond the shot together. You could do this in several stages to work up to the weight you want.

Using plaster that hasn't been baked long enough to get ALL the moisture out or damp sand is asking for a nasty explosion of steam through the molten lead. (Been there, done that, not going to do it again And that plaster mold had been baked for some time)
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:21:57 PM EST
If you want to use shot, bb's or bullets, just put them in a ziplock bag or an old sock and stuff them in the stock.

It isn't rocket science.

SRM
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:27:22 PM EST

Originally Posted By SRM:

Originally Posted By Valkyrie:
I'm thinking I can make a mold of plaster. Wrapping the original in saran wrap and making a mold using a shoe box as a form?



I tried that first. Plaster retains enough water that I would advise against it. Plus, the product is very rough.

This is the reason I went with aluminum angle attached to an aluminum base plate. Steel would work as well, just coat the mold with soapstone as a release agent.

SRM



Plaster is FINE if you bake the mold at 300 F for a few hours and then use vacuum casting. For this, you have to design the mold flask so you can hook a vacuum pump to it.

Best bet is to cast the cavity in wax, then attach a 1/2" "tree" dowel of the wax to this pattern. Sink the pattern in wet plaster (again, vacuum degassing of the plaster yields no voids) in this flask. Let set, bake at 300 F upside down to melt the wax out and dry the plaster. Then put it right side up, hook the vacuum to the flask and pour it.

If you put a pan under the flask when baking, you can recover most of the wax.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:32:40 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/19/2006 4:37:39 PM EST by Noname]
$22.80...

(the brotherhood price is $15.00)
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:34:53 PM EST
If you use damp sand to make a mould, please wait until it drys out all the way before you pour. If you don't there will be unpleasentnss.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:39:44 PM EST
[Last Edit: 1/19/2006 4:41:39 PM EST by Max_Mike]

Originally Posted By SRM:
If you want to use shot, bb's or bullets, just put them in a ziplock bag or an old sock and stuff them in the stock.

It isn't rocket science.

SRM



+1

I love the way the simplest things get so complicated here… how do some of us get toothpaste out of the tube with out special tools.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:45:27 PM EST

Originally Posted By Max_Mike:

Originally Posted By SRM:
If you want to use shot, bb's or bullets, just put them in a ziplock bag or an old sock and stuff them in the stock.

It isn't rocket science.

SRM



+1

I love the way the simplest things get so complicated here… how do some of us get toothpaste out of the tube with out special tools.



Start your own damn topic.
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 4:48:45 PM EST
Bondo. I used to cast all sorts of fishing related lead products (sinkers ) in all kinds of interesting shapes and sizes, and found that nothing works better than Bondo for an impromptu mold. I've tried sand, plaster, even cutting holes in aluminum, but for weird shapes, Bondo works great. Plus, a $7 can will make a lot of molds (or fill a lot of bullet holes )
Link Posted: 1/19/2006 5:36:44 PM EST

Originally Posted By SRM:
If you want to use shot, bb's or bullets, just put them in a ziplock bag or an old sock and stuff them in the stock.

It isn't rocket science.

SRM



As someone who ditched his wedge weight, in favor of #8 shot, because it was too damn heavy, I think this deserves another requote.
Top Top