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Posted: 12/18/2016 2:04:11 PM EDT
I can't find what year ford made the switch. I doubt my plugs have ever been replaced and I want to prepare my mind for what I'm about to do.
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My 05 needed new plugs around 105k...the ford dealer mech that did it in his front yard on a Saturday morn...(he wanted the motor cold ) told me to buy the plugs and new wires or whatever was connected in front of the plugs. The plugs and wires were at 200$ and he charged 100$ for labor...He did bring the broken plug kit from work and did not need to use it....He said it was done in under a hour...I was happy at 300$....great motor
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My 05 needed new plugs around 105k...the ford dealer mech that did it in his front yard on a Saturday morn...(he wanted the motor cold ) told me to buy the plugs and new wires or whatever was connected in front of the plugs. The plugs and wires were at 200$ and he charged 100$ for labor...He did bring the broken plug kit from work and did not need to use it....He said it was done in under a hour...I was happy at 300$....great motor View Quote Soo.. was it two plus per cylinder or one? 300 bux for a tuneup is a joke man. Did my own in my driveway on my 08 RAM. @ 2 plugs per cylinder and no wires to replace (newer coil pack system), If I can remember right it cost me about 100 bux total. Get some spark plug sockets and save yourself some cash. The dodge dealer wanted 400 for a tuneup and I just laughed and went right to the auto parts store. |
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Soo.. was it two plus per cylinder or one? 300 bux for a tuneup is a joke man. Did my own in my driveway on my 08 RAM. @ 2 plugs per cylinder and no wires to replace (newer coil pack system), If I can remember right it cost me about 100 bux total. Get some spark plug sockets and save yourself some cash. The dodge dealer wanted 400 for a tuneup and I just laughed and went right to the auto parts store. View Quote Do a ford and snap a plug, then get back with me. |
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I need to get mine done too. Or do them myself. Havent decided yet. 04 with 106k.
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There are actually some pretty good youtubes on this.
I've got the V-10. |
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Had my '05 done last summer at 102,000 miles. Nothing broke, though I did not do it myself. The dealer did it.
There is some sort of compensation deal from Ford if they break before 120,000 miles. Check into that. |
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If I remember right trucks made after may 2007 dont have the problem. Mine was made in march.
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Done this job a few times. Use the biggest air impact you can to get them out without breaking. The soaking and heating up crap doesn't work well. Broke many that way. Impact method I'm about 95% unbroken.
The Leslie extracting tool is easy to use if you do break one though. I got it online for about $50. Stay away from the Champion one piece replacement plugs, had to replace a few of those with broken electrodes right out of the box. |
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I had mine done at 75k just to get it out of the way. None broke in the process.
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Do a ford and snap a plug, then get back with me. View Quote Well the ford truck part is your first problem... Hopefully your ford tech that charged you an arm and a leg used some anti seize on the threads lol. If you're busting plugs getting them out, you're putting too much torque towards the top of the plug. |
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3/8" impact to remove, use the least amount of extensions and swivels as possible. Do not use the impact to install. Use high temp nickel anti-seize on the smooth portion, under the threads - not on the threads, this is where they actually seize.
I'm a diesel tech, but when I do get handed one of these, I find it beneficial to get as much stuff out of the way as possible - to get the impact as close to the spark plug as possible. Believe me, it is worth the extra few minutes. |
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Well the ford truck part is your first problem... Hopefully your ford tech that charged you an arm and a leg used some anti seize on the threads lol. If you're busting plugs getting them out, you're putting too much torque towards the top of the plug. View Quote Lol. It has nothing to do with how much torque was used at installation. You don't understand the issue with these. |
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The 5.4L 3 Valve used the 2 piece as you mention up until late in 2007..... The newest variant of the Motorcraft plug is the Motorcraft SP-515
It is still a 2 piece plug but is crimped with a higher torque threshold.... separation torque is now north of 90 ft-lbs I recommend using some seafoam before hand to help decrease carbon build up on the plug barrel ..... Most will recommend you attempt removal on a warm engine So if your truck is an "07" you can pretty much bet it uses the 2 piece plug Good luck |
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3/8" impact to remove, use the least amount of extensions and swivels as possible. Do not use the impact to install. Use high temp nickel anti-seize on the smooth portion, under the threads - not on the threads, this is where they actually seize. I'm a diesel tech, but when I do get handed one of these, I find it beneficial to get as much stuff out of the way as possible - to get the impact as close to the spark plug as possible. Believe me, it is worth the extra few minutes. View Quote This dude knows. |
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When did I say there was too much torque used at installation? View Quote Sorry, mis-read that part of your post, but you still don't understand the issue. These don't just snap the porcelain off like the old plugs, the bottom twists off. The threads and porcelain come out, leaving the electrode "sleeve" stuck in the hole with nothing to grab on to. Takes a special tool to remove at this point. |
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Well the ford truck part is your first problem... Hopefully your ford tech that charged you an arm and a leg used some anti seize on the threads lol. If you're busting plugs getting them out, you're putting too much torque towards the top of the plug. View Quote Wanna know how I know you have no clue about this particular issue? |
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Does OP mean "two piece" as in the part that comes out and he part that gets stuck?
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Sorry, mis-read that part of your post, but you still don't understand the issue. These don't just snap the porcelain off like the old plugs, the bottom twists off. The threads and porcelain come out, leaving the electrode "sleeve" stuck in the hole with nothing to grab on to. Takes a special tool to remove at this point. View Quote Wow now I understand. That sounds like a royal pain in the ass. I was thinking the porcelain snapping. At least Ford changed the design. |
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yea the jet mech guy was lost...was doing tune up in the mid 60s...sometimes ya just gotta let em roll on and sound silly
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My '05 V-10's plugs came out fine with 145k on the truck. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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There are actually some pretty good youtubes on this. I've got the V-10. My '05 V-10's plugs came out fine with 145k on the truck. I did my 2001 with 239,000,v10,with no problems at all. Took about 2 hours or so. |
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The two piece plug was an engineering disaster. I recently replaced the plugs on an 07 GT/CS, and broke only one. A Lisle removal tool is a lifesaver if you have access to one. The new motor craft plugs are a one piece design. There is a lawsuit and or settlement regarding the plugs. Have the motor warm, use some PB blaster, some carb cleaner and very VERY slowly work the plugs out. Took me about two hours by going very slowly. And I broke one. Didn't even feel or hear a difference in that one. The plugs are quite tight in the cylinder head and the carbon fouling is what you hope to break, which helps to break the crappy two piece plugs.
Good luck |
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You'll need a 9/16" spark plug socket as well. View Quote Good call, forgot about that. A thin wall deep well socket will work in a pinch but won't hold the plug to pull it out. Also be aware that some replacement plugs such as the one piece Champion (which I do not recommend) are 5/8" which would require another thin walled socket to fit in the hole. |
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I replaced the factory plugs in my 05 two years ago at around 35,000 miles. Had to do the injectors so I did both at same time.
Didn't break any, though. Cracked them loose and soaked em in Deep Creep and carb cleaner. Worked them out keeping the torque wrench under 24 pounds. I wish there was better options for the spark plugs. I put E3s in but keep seeing horror stories about them. Oh well, the 2 piece from any brand are not going back in... |
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Good call, forgot about that. A thin wall deep well socket will work in a pinch but won't hold the plug to pull it out. Also be aware that some replacement plugs such as the one piece Champion (which I do not recommend) are 5/8" which would require another thin walled socket to fit in the hole. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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You'll need a 9/16" spark plug socket as well. Good call, forgot about that. A thin wall deep well socket will work in a pinch but won't hold the plug to pull it out. Also be aware that some replacement plugs such as the one piece Champion (which I do not recommend) are 5/8" which would require another thin walled socket to fit in the hole. I have both, but I want to buy this socket they make that has a built on extension....seems like it would work well with the impact. |
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I own a shop and I've done hundreds of these plugs. I've tried everything; doing them cold, doing them warm, cracking them loose and spraying shit in there, running a cleaner through the intake until it dies and letting it sit. All I know is that it seems to be all luck. I've gotten all of them out, I've broken all of them and I've broken only some. Just don't start the job without the removal tool by your side.
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I changed my own plugs on a 2007 5.4. 100k miles. Bought the tool in case I broke a plug. The two weeks prior to the plug change I ran Royal Purple Max Clean and Lucas Deep Engine Cleaner through consecutive tanks of gas. I made the plug change while the engine was warm...not hot, not cold. Went very slow with a torque wrench where I reversed the turning force between quarter turns during the first couple of revolutions. Got them all out without breaking a single one. The loud "squeaking" sound each plug made coming out wasn't the best thing I've ever heard...but I got those bastards out.
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I have a 99 with a 4.6 I just bought and it needs a tuneup at 205,000 miles. I'm concerned lol. I will,be bringing to a dealer in Madison, they say they run some type of fuel injection cleaning system for a couple hours which in their experience has broken up carbon to where they don't break. I know a couple people who had it done on the same model year at the same place, and it seemed to work.
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I have a 99 with a 4.6 I just bought and it needs a tuneup at 205,000 miles. I'm concerned lol. I will,be bringing to a dealer in Madison, they say they run some type of fuel injection cleaning system for a couple hours which in their experience has broken up carbon to where they don't break. I know a couple people who had it done on the same model year at the same place, and it seemed to work. View Quote Don't be. The 3 valve engine (which you do not have) is the only one with the 2 piece plug that can break. All the other mod motors just spit them out. |
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How in the hell could they have cluster fucked something as simple as changing spark plugs? I know plenty are hard to get at, but two pice plugs that usually break off when you do change them? Yeah, no thanks!
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Great advice in here. I work at a Ford dealer, we do these quite a bit. One trick is to use ATF, pour a little into the cylinder before you start trying to remove the plug, the ATF will seep in the threads and help loosen it up. Shoot me an IM if you have any other Ford related questions!
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Broke 1 out of 8 changing mine.
Used a 3/8" impact and THIN wall socket. Thick wall impact sockets won't reach the plug before the cylinder head access diameter necks down. Have the lisle tool ready, it's worth its weight in gold when needed. If you break a plug, blow out the cylinder with compressed air or use a shop vac with narrow hose to extract any porcelain fragments pushed into the cylinder from the tool. Might as well change out the ignition coils while you're there. Good luck! It's not as bad as it seems, but read and re-read the directions on the lisle tool to make sure you use it right. Cheers, Ryan |
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