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I can't find what year ford made the switch. I doubt my plugs have ever been replaced and I want to prepare my mind for what I'm about to do.
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Posted: 12/18/2016 1:12:30 PM EST
My 05 needed new plugs around 105k...the ford dealer mech that did it in his front yard on a Saturday morn...(he wanted the motor cold ) told me to buy the plugs and new wires or whatever was connected in front of the plugs. The plugs and wires were at 200$ and he charged 100$ for labor...He did bring the broken plug kit from work and did not need to use it....He said it was done in under a hour...I was happy at 300$....great motor
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 2:25:00 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/18/2016 2:26:27 PM EST by Thejetmechanic1990]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dneal33:
My 05 needed new plugs around 105k...the ford dealer mech that did it in his front yard on a Saturday morn...(he wanted the motor cold ) told me to buy the plugs and new wires or whatever was connected in front of the plugs. The plugs and wires were at 200$ and he charged 100$ for labor...He did bring the broken plug kit from work and did not need to use it....He said it was done in under a hour...I was happy at 300$....great motor Soo.. was it two plus per cylinder or one? 300 bux for a tuneup is a joke man. Did my own in my driveway on my 08 RAM. @ 2 plugs per cylinder and no wires to replace (newer coil pack system), If I can remember right it cost me about 100 bux total. Get some spark plug sockets and save yourself some cash. The dodge dealer wanted 400 for a tuneup and I just laughed and went right to the auto parts store. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 2:49:35 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By Thejetmechanic1990:
Soo.. was it two plus per cylinder or one? 300 bux for a tuneup is a joke man. Did my own in my driveway on my 08 RAM. @ 2 plugs per cylinder and no wires to replace (newer coil pack system), If I can remember right it cost me about 100 bux total. Get some spark plug sockets and save yourself some cash. The dodge dealer wanted 400 for a tuneup and I just laughed and went right to the auto parts store. Do a ford and snap a plug, then get back with me. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 2:58:16 PM EST
I need to get mine done too. Or do them myself. Havent decided yet. 04 with 106k.
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:01:57 PM EST
There are actually some pretty good youtubes on this.
I've got the V-10. 
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:07:39 PM EST
Had my '05 done last summer at 102,000 miles. Nothing broke, though I did not do it myself. The dealer did it.
There is some sort of compensation deal from Ford if they break before 120,000 miles. Check into that. |
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USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:14:51 PM EST
If I remember right trucks made after may 2007 dont have the problem. Mine was made in march.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:21:34 PM EST
Done this job a few times. Use the biggest air impact you can to get them out without breaking. The soaking and heating up crap doesn't work well. Broke many that way. Impact method I'm about 95% unbroken.
The Leslie extracting tool is easy to use if you do break one though. I got it online for about $50. Stay away from the Champion one piece replacement plugs, had to replace a few of those with broken electrodes right out of the box. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:24:13 PM EST
I had mine done at 75k just to get it out of the way. None broke in the process.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:37:48 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By jarhead13:
Do a ford and snap a plug, then get back with me. Well the ford truck part is your first problem... Hopefully your ford tech that charged you an arm and a leg used some anti seize on the threads lol. If you're busting plugs getting them out, you're putting too much torque towards the top of the plug. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:39:55 PM EST
3/8" impact to remove, use the least amount of extensions and swivels as possible. Do not use the impact to install. Use high temp nickel anti-seize on the smooth portion, under the threads - not on the threads, this is where they actually seize.
I'm a diesel tech, but when I do get handed one of these, I find it beneficial to get as much stuff out of the way as possible - to get the impact as close to the spark plug as possible. Believe me, it is worth the extra few minutes. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:41:51 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By Thejetmechanic1990:
Well the ford truck part is your first problem... Hopefully your ford tech that charged you an arm and a leg used some anti seize on the threads lol. If you're busting plugs getting them out, you're putting too much torque towards the top of the plug. Lol. It has nothing to do with how much torque was used at installation. You don't understand the issue with these. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:42:36 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/18/2016 3:48:32 PM EST by mcordell]
The 5.4L 3 Valve used the 2 piece as you mention up until late in 2007..... The newest variant of the Motorcraft plug is the Motorcraft SP-515
It is still a 2 piece plug but is crimped with a higher torque threshold.... separation torque is now north of 90 ft-lbs I recommend using some seafoam before hand to help decrease carbon build up on the plug barrel ..... Most will recommend you attempt removal on a warm engine So if your truck is an "07" you can pretty much bet it uses the 2 piece plug Good luck |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:48:01 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By boy-scout:
3/8" impact to remove, use the least amount of extensions and swivels as possible. Do not use the impact to install. Use high temp nickel anti-seize on the smooth portion, under the threads - not on the threads, this is where they actually seize. I'm a diesel tech, but when I do get handed one of these, I find it beneficial to get as much stuff out of the way as possible - to get the impact as close to the spark plug as possible. Believe me, it is worth the extra few minutes. This dude knows. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 3:58:11 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By boy-scout:
Lol. It has nothing to do with how much torque was used at installation. You don't understand the issue with these. When did I say there was too much torque used at installation? |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 4:12:28 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By BTccw:
There are actually some pretty good youtubes on this. I've got the V-10. My '05 V-10's plugs came out fine with 145k on the truck. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 4:46:36 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By Thejetmechanic1990:
When did I say there was too much torque used at installation? Sorry, mis-read that part of your post, but you still don't understand the issue. These don't just snap the porcelain off like the old plugs, the bottom twists off. The threads and porcelain come out, leaving the electrode "sleeve" stuck in the hole with nothing to grab on to. Takes a special tool to remove at this point. |
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Posted: 12/18/2016 4:51:27 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By Thejetmechanic1990:
Well the ford truck part is your first problem... Hopefully your ford tech that charged you an arm and a leg used some anti seize on the threads lol. If you're busting plugs getting them out, you're putting too much torque towards the top of the plug. Wanna know how I know you have no clue about this particular issue? |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 4:59:08 PM EST
Does OP mean "two piece" as in the part that comes out and he part that gets stuck?
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Posted: 12/18/2016 5:46:52 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/18/2016 5:48:04 PM EST by boy-scout]
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Posted: 12/18/2016 6:05:27 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By Low-Cap:
Does OP mean "two piece" as in the part that comes out and he part that gets stuck? Yes as in it's a two piece design. Also thank you folks for the info. I have to get the extractor kit in case I. Break one. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2016 8:19:26 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By boy-scout:
Sorry, mis-read that part of your post, but you still don't understand the issue. These don't just snap the porcelain off like the old plugs, the bottom twists off. The threads and porcelain come out, leaving the electrode "sleeve" stuck in the hole with nothing to grab on to. Takes a special tool to remove at this point. Wow now I understand. That sounds like a royal pain in the ass. I was thinking the porcelain snapping. At least Ford changed the design. |
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Posted: 12/19/2016 5:45:08 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By Thejetmechanic1990:
Wow now I understand. That sounds like a royal pain in the ass. I was thinking the porcelain snapping. At least Ford changed the design. Yeah it was a bad design...but it seems that an impact wrench will work. |
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Posted: 12/19/2016 5:58:29 PM EST
yea the jet mech guy was lost...was doing tune up in the mid 60s...sometimes ya just gotta let em roll on and sound silly
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WI, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:09:29 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By fook:
My '05 V-10's plugs came out fine with 145k on the truck. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fook:
Originally Posted By BTccw:
There are actually some pretty good youtubes on this. I've got the V-10. My '05 V-10's plugs came out fine with 145k on the truck. I did my 2001 with 239,000,v10,with no problems at all. Took about 2 hours or so. |
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:34:01 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By lightning351:
I did my 2001 with 239,000,v10,with no problems at all. Took about 2 hours or so. 2001 is a different engine, different spark plug. |
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:35:28 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By midcap:
Yes as in it's a two piece design.Also thank you folks for the info. I have to get the extractor kit in case I. Break one. You'll need a 9/16" spark plug socket as well. |
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:35:37 PM EST
5.4 is a hard number to remember
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NC, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:41:19 PM EST
The two piece plug was an engineering disaster. I recently replaced the plugs on an 07 GT/CS, and broke only one. A Lisle removal tool is a lifesaver if you have access to one. The new motor craft plugs are a one piece design. There is a lawsuit and or settlement regarding the plugs. Have the motor warm, use some PB blaster, some carb cleaner and very VERY slowly work the plugs out. Took me about two hours by going very slowly. And I broke one. Didn't even feel or hear a difference in that one. The plugs are quite tight in the cylinder head and the carbon fouling is what you hope to break, which helps to break the crappy two piece plugs.
Good luck |
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:47:44 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By boy-scout:
You'll need a 9/16" spark plug socket as well. Good call, forgot about that. A thin wall deep well socket will work in a pinch but won't hold the plug to pull it out. Also be aware that some replacement plugs such as the one piece Champion (which I do not recommend) are 5/8" which would require another thin walled socket to fit in the hole. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2016 6:59:09 PM EST
I replaced the factory plugs in my 05 two years ago at around 35,000 miles. Had to do the injectors
 so I did both at same time.
Didn't break any, though. Cracked them loose and soaked em in Deep Creep and carb cleaner. Worked them out keeping the torque wrench under 24 pounds. I wish there was better options for the spark plugs. I put E3s in but keep seeing horror stories about them. Oh well, the 2 piece from any brand are not going back in... |
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Posted: 12/21/2016 11:48:34 AM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By theblackcat:
Good call, forgot about that. A thin wall deep well socket will work in a pinch but won't hold the plug to pull it out. Also be aware that some replacement plugs such as the one piece Champion (which I do not recommend) are 5/8" which would require another thin walled socket to fit in the hole. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By theblackcat:
Originally Posted By boy-scout:
You'll need a 9/16" spark plug socket as well. Good call, forgot about that. A thin wall deep well socket will work in a pinch but won't hold the plug to pull it out. Also be aware that some replacement plugs such as the one piece Champion (which I do not recommend) are 5/8" which would require another thin walled socket to fit in the hole. I have both, but I want to buy this socket they make that has a built on extension....seems like it would work well with the impact. |
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Posted: 12/21/2016 11:52:13 AM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By chipdog4:
I replaced the factory plugs in my 05 two years ago at around 35,000 miles. Had to do the injectors so I did both at same time.
Didn't break any, though. Cracked them loose and soaked em in Deep Creep and carb cleaner. Worked them out keeping the torque wrench under 24 pounds. I wish there was better options for the spark plugs. I put E3s in but keep seeing horror stories about them. Oh well, the 2 piece from any brand are not going back in... The more I look into this it seems like I have a real good solution to getting the carbon out between the plug and the head. Like you said loosen up the threads a little so the seal is broken, then I can spray some BRP engine tuner/or Merc Power tune down in there....that shit eats up carbon like crazy. As is, 2 stroke pistons with carbon baked on top....let the piston sit in that stuff over night and the carbon scrubs right off. Then hit the plugs with the impact wrench. 
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NJ, USA
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Posted: 12/21/2016 12:01:44 PM EST
I own a shop and I've done hundreds of these plugs. I've tried everything; doing them cold, doing them warm, cracking them loose and spraying shit in there, running a cleaner through the intake until it dies and letting it sit. All I know is that it seems to be all luck. I've gotten all of them out, I've broken all of them and I've broken only some. Just don't start the job without the removal tool by your side.
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Posted: 12/21/2016 12:14:50 PM EST
I changed my own plugs on a 2007 5.4. 100k miles. Bought the tool in case I broke a plug. The two weeks prior to the plug change I ran Royal Purple Max Clean and Lucas Deep Engine Cleaner through consecutive tanks of gas. I made the plug change while the engine was warm...not hot, not cold. Went very slow with a torque wrench where I reversed the turning force between quarter turns during the first couple of revolutions. Got them all out without breaking a single one. The loud "squeaking" sound each plug made coming out wasn't the best thing I've ever heard...but I got those bastards out.
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Posted: 12/21/2016 12:56:59 PM EST
Use an impact and they'll come right out
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:01:01 PM EST
I have a 99 with a 4.6 I just bought and it needs a tuneup at 205,000 miles. I'm concerned lol. I will,be bringing to a dealer in Madison, they say they run some type of fuel injection cleaning system for a couple hours which in their experience has broken up carbon to where they don't break. I know a couple people who had it done on the same model year at the same place, and it seemed to work.
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:04:28 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By canu94:
Use an impact and they'll come right out That's what I plan on doing.....it seems like the impact wrench is the ticket. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:14:57 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By kersty52:
I have a 99 with a 4.6 I just bought and it needs a tuneup at 205,000 miles. I'm concerned lol. I will,be bringing to a dealer in Madison, they say they run some type of fuel injection cleaning system for a couple hours which in their experience has broken up carbon to where they don't break. I know a couple people who had it done on the same model year at the same place, and it seemed to work. Don't be. The 3 valve engine (which you do not have) is the only one with the 2 piece plug that can break. All the other mod motors just spit them out. 
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MI, USA
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:18:54 PM EST
How in the hell could they have cluster fucked something as simple as changing spark plugs? I know plenty are hard to get at, but two pice plugs that usually break off when you do change them? Yeah, no thanks!
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:21:32 PM EST
Ribbit.
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:25:10 PM EST
Great advice in here. I work at a Ford dealer, we do these quite a bit. One trick is to use ATF, pour a little into the cylinder before you start trying to remove the plug, the ATF will seep in the threads and help loosen it up. Shoot me an IM if you have any other Ford related questions!
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:38:36 PM EST
Broke 1 out of 8 changing mine.
Used a 3/8" impact and THIN wall socket. Thick wall impact sockets won't reach the plug before the cylinder head access diameter necks down. Have the lisle tool ready, it's worth its weight in gold when needed. If you break a plug, blow out the cylinder with compressed air or use a shop vac with narrow hose to extract any porcelain fragments pushed into the cylinder from the tool. Might as well change out the ignition coils while you're there. Good luck! It's not as bad as it seems, but read and re-read the directions on the lisle tool to make sure you use it right. Cheers, Ryan |
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Posted: 12/21/2016 1:46:22 PM EST
Quote History Originally Posted By hidinginwoods:
If I remember right trucks made after may 2007 dont have the problem. Mine was made in march. I'm kind of curious about this as well, we have an '08 Expedition with the 5.4L, and its due for a plug change... |
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