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Posted: 6/20/2016 11:24:12 PM EDT
I don't really have the time to do all the research legwork on the absolute best way to go about this. So I'll let you experts tell me what to do.

I've got a decent hobby lathe (Old Atlas/Craftsman) and enough tooling for it to do any of the basic stuff like turning, boring, or threading (inside/outside).

My criteria is
- 9MM,
- full-auto capable,
- hell built for stout,
- I don't give a fuck how heavy it is.


Tell me what to do. I don't want to reinvent the wheel here. Just tell me what to build so I can go ahead and file for the stamp. I'm assuming a wheel of the type I described in my criteria has been invented many times over by now, so I'd rather not waste time figuring out the hard way what other people already know.
Link Posted: 6/20/2016 11:26:23 PM EDT
We have a build it yourself suppressor forum.
Link Posted: 6/20/2016 11:33:44 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By MSC182:
We have a build it yourself suppressor forum.
View Quote



I know. I've read some of it and will continue to do so, but it's alot of information sift through.
Link Posted: 6/20/2016 11:34:06 PM EDT
Go to the
armory/suppressors-do it yoursef
See the thread that says "the effective $250 Suppressor" thread.

Also see the one about $100 or less thread.
There are links to some titanium tubes and precut cones and spacers. I think you just need to drill them out or some final touches before you do the final assembly.

Pretty much it's 60degree cones or bust. Hemispherical baffles work also but at a little !ore difficult to produce.

You have lots of reading to do
Link Posted: 6/20/2016 11:41:04 PM EDT
I need to do this, too. I've got an AR I want to outfit with a direct thread can.
Link Posted: 6/20/2016 11:48:11 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By shinoi:
Go to the
armory/suppressors-do it yoursef
See the thread that says "the effective $250 Suppressor" thread.

Also see the one about $100 or less thread.
There are links to some titanium tubes and precut cones and spacers. I think you just need to drill them out or some final touches before you do the final assembly.

Pretty much it's 60degree cones or bust. Hemispherical baffles work also but at a little !ore difficult to produce.

You have lots of reading to do
View Quote



Dammit.

For full auto, wouldn't SS make more sense? From what little I've read so far about the subject, seems like people are saying SS dissipates heat faster.

Titanium is strong, light, and expensive. As I said... I don't give a fuck if it weighs alot. It's going on the end of my M11/9 ghetto-blasten-maschinen-pistole
Link Posted: 6/20/2016 11:52:37 PM EDT
SS is a relatively poor conductor of heat, so it should heat up more slowly than many other materials. I don't know how it compares to Ti, though.

FWIW, though, the fan blades on the engines fitted to the fighters I worked on were Ti or some alloy thereof.
Link Posted: 6/21/2016 12:22:00 AM EDT
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-metals-d_858.html


Ti and SS are in ten same ball park for thermal conductivity. Aluminum is a better conductor but doesn't have the strength.

Sense thermally they are similar, you will get a weight savings with Ti over SS.
density of ti = 4500 kg/m^3
density of SS = 7500 - 8000 kg/m^3
Yield strength Ti = 940 MPa
Yield strength SS = 520 MPa

so almost 2x as strong and 1/2 as light...You would work that into your hoop stress to determine the minimum can thickness for a given pressure. But if you read those threads, the machined bodies are already machined to a suitable thickness. Really you just buy the parts and assemble in your home.....and some finishing touches.....it almost equates to an 80% lower.

presumably you want it to dissipate heat quickly, but the conductive heat transfer / energy absorption will take longer than the 100 microseconds it will take for the shot to return to atmospherics pressure....that is to say, the concern with heat transfer is just so you can touch the can after a string of shots, it most likely has a negligible affect on reducing the sound pressure level....
Link Posted: 6/21/2016 12:35:11 AM EDT
For full auto 9mm you could build the entire can out of aluminum if you could get the parts anodized. I would just
use a SS rear cap or incorporate a SS threaded insert into the barrel mounting threads as aluminum threads will not hold up
well over time.
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