Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login
Site Notices
9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 6/30/2001 12:54:41 PM EDT
I got a deal I couldn't refuse at the last Orlando gun show: An unfired standard model Springfield with black stock . I like it because it is a 308, fairly accurate, and looks nifty, and feels good when shot offhand. However, I had 2 failures to feed,( helpful bystander at range oiled the hell out of the op rod guide area, worked OK after that, but not sure yet ) using reasonably decent surplus ammo. The hand guard is extremely floppy: can it be tightened somehow? I tried to strip it and I can't get the op rod off, even with a little judicious prying with a screwdriver- yes I know where the receiver cut out is, still it won't come off. The gas cylinder plug shoots loose. Seems to be a lot more of a hassle to clean than my ARs. Somebody should encourage me..
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:07:21 PM EDT
I have never owned one, but that is my dream rifle. One of these days I will have one. Try a gunsmith. Is that encouraging enough? Just the thought of owning one would be a kick in the pants for me. Be thankfull you have one, even if you have a few problems. Well hopefully the problems will only be minor. Good luck.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:15:57 PM EDT
I wish I was in your shoes...I am still saving for my M1A.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:26:41 PM EDT
I can't get my op rod out either and I am pretty handy with the Garand op rod. I've asked for Net advice but I think I need to see someone actually do it to get the hang of it. Mine hasn't hung up but then again I have less than 100 rounds through it. I understand grease, not oil, is the ticket for lube.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:29:58 PM EDT
Mole, be glad you did'nt get the N-match like me. you cant take it apart to clean, you cant even take the trigger out, its bedded really tight! and the chamber is so tight I could'nt get reloads to shoot very well (jams, failure to feed, I purchased two more sets of dies, full lenght, sm base ect.). I could see between the stock & barrel the recoil spring needed to be cleaned and oiled, but all I could do was to shoot brake clean and oil through the cracks. I'm not trying to knock Springfield but I sure wish I'd purchased a standard model like yours, but with wood. good luck.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:32:18 PM EDT
My friend says to DEFINITELY get this book: "The M14 Owner's Guide and Match Conditioning Instructions" by Scott A. Duff and John M. Miller. My friend has one and it is has just about everything you ever wanted to know about maintenance and modifications. The M14's are supposed to be lubed with GREASE (lubriplate, Tetra Grease, Plastilube) not oil and a thin coating should be applied to all areas where metal to metal contact occurs. 1. Op rod surface that rides under the chamber of the barrel. 2. Op rod lug and engagement groove on right side of receiver 3. Op rod cam area. 4. Bolt lug engagement areas of the receiver. 5. Bolt locking recesses in receiver. 6. Receiver lip and bolt recesses underneat the heel of the receiver. 7. Bolt lug and bolt roller. 8. Underneath of bolt 9. Bolt camming lug on hammer. 10. Top of hammer which botl rides over during cocking. Op rod removal: "Place the receiver group in a position with the sights up. Pull the operating rod handle to the rear. As the operating rod nears the end of it's travel, pull the handle up and out. As the lug on the bottom rear of the operating rod disengages, rotate the operating rod down and out. Then pull the operating rod to the rear to disengage the tube from the operating rod guide." It is normal for the handguard to have some play in it, just as long as it isn't contacting the stock along the bottom edge. The handguard is basically only being held on by the lip of the gas cylinder assembly and the barrel band in the rear. How tight are you making the cylinder plug? You should only be tightening or loosening the gas cylinder plug if you are using a gas cylinder holder in conjunction wit the combination tool.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:36:39 PM EDT
BOUGHT A-R 10 INSTEAD!!!!!.......[heavy]
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:47:25 PM EDT
Originally Posted By black&green: BOUGHT A-R 10 INSTEAD!!!!!.......[heavy]
View Quote
I got an AR10T and it's mighty fine. But I wanted something in a 308 I wouldn't be afraid to use NATO surplus ammo in, since a 168 gr Sierra BULLET costs as much as a whole surplus cartridge.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 1:52:37 PM EDT
HEY IMBROGLIO: The bottom of the handguard is not supposed to contact the stock? It's resting on the stock along the whole bottom surface, and it's floppier than Reno's tits..
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 2:42:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 6/30/2001 2:43:09 PM EDT by Sukebe]
O.K. Take it easy. Imbroglio knows what he's talking about. Thats the same info in Scott Duffs book. The handguard shouldn't touch the stock on a match conditioned M-14. Don't worry about how loose the handguard is they are all that way. You have a quality rifle there. Get Duffs book and grease that rifle and enjoy. You just need to learn the rifle. I have one and it runs like a scalded dog. Maybe it just needs some break in time. Congrats on a great choice.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 3:18:40 PM EDT
Wow, Imbroglio has an awful lot of firearms knowledge considering his "collection" of a 10/22 and a .38 revolver...
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 3:33:47 PM EDT
MOLE EYE, Bring her up to [url]HernandoSportsmansClub.com[/url] this Sunday and we will blast some Hirt.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 4:58:10 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Mole Eye: I got a deal I couldn't refuse at the last Orlando gun show: An unfired standard model Springfield with black stock . I like it because it is a 308, fairly accurate, and looks nifty, and feels good when shot offhand. However, I had 2 failures to feed,( helpful bystander at range oiled the hell out of the op rod guide area, worked OK after that, but not sure yet ) using reasonably decent surplus ammo. The hand guard is extremely floppy: can it be tightened somehow? I tried to strip it and I can't get the op rod off, even with a little judicious prying with a screwdriver- yes I know where the receiver cut out is, still it won't come off. The gas cylinder plug shoots loose. Seems to be a lot more of a hassle to clean than my ARs. Somebody should encourage me..
View Quote
My M1A/M14 is my favorite rifle(most days)[:D] (I love my AR's too) 1. Use only USGI or parkerized Chinese mags. 2. Yes, buy Scott Duff's book. 3. Put the screwdriver down.!! 4. once your familiar with it, it's easy to clean. Most competition shooters turn it upside down, clean the barrel and forget the rest. Upsidedown keeps bore solvent from dripping into the gas cylinder. You don't need to field strip it after every shoot but Duff's book will show you how to take care of it. [img]http://wsphotofews.excite.com/027/MS/uZ/wE/v780970.jpg[/img]
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 5:20:58 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Rich in CM: Wow, Imbroglio has an awful lot of firearms knowledge considering his "collection" of a 10/22 and a .38 revolver...
View Quote
He says it's because he reads a lot.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 7:41:03 PM EDT
Originally Posted By operator error:
Originally Posted By Rich in CM: Wow, Imbroglio has an awful lot of firearms knowledge considering his "collection" of a 10/22 and a .38 revolver...
View Quote
He says it's because he reads a lot.
View Quote
He doesn't buy guns, he doesn't get laid so what else is there for him to do? At least he has some useful knowledge.
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 7:58:39 PM EDT
Link Posted: 6/30/2001 11:29:49 PM EDT
Had trouble (actually more than trouble) getting my new M1A apart too. It was my first, but my friend who had one for years could'nt get it apart either(yes we used a prying screwdriver). I loved the rifle but when I needed to sell one of them the Springfield went (and the AR's stayed). I would give it time to break in and familiarize yourself with it (I wish now I could have). Even if you get the bolt out wait until you have to put it back in.
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 2:17:33 AM EDT
I love my SA standard M1A! Take it out and shoot it then swab out the barrel and that is it other than some CLP here and there. I didn't want a NM model due to the bedding and taking real care not to upset it. After I got my Leupold with ARMS mount the thing it a tac driver now. One happy camper!
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 5:43:25 AM EDT
My oprod is difficult to remove also. There is a little shoulder on the receiver in the notch where the oprod is removed. You can get the oprod out, but you have to pull it away from the receiver to clear that notch. A gunsmith recommended filing that shoulder down, but I haven't done it yet. I don't know if that shoulder is supposed to be there or not. It looks like a milling step was missed.
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 6:20:39 AM EDT
Please don't pry with the screwdriver. Get with someone who has one and have them show you proper disassembly procedures. It's a little tricky to start with, but once you get the hang of, it's no more difficult than most semi-autos. Get Duff & Miller's book. Get a M14 Field Manual or better, an armorer's manual. Invest in some Tetra grease. You have a great gun, give another 300 to 400 rounds to break-in and settle down. [X] [X]
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 6:25:18 AM EDT
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 6:38:56 AM EDT
You guys with the screw driver better put it down. You are going to bend your op rod. The op rod is a bit snug but it comes out when you get it positioned properly. Don't pry it! You don't have to remove these internal all the time. Maybe after 500 or 700 rounds. You can clean everything when in tack. I don't take mine apart every time. Get a toothbrush and clean the bolt the inside of receiver and clean the bbl. Wipe the piston while protruding out of gas system. Don't oil the piston. Turn the rifle upside down when using solvent so the gas system dosen't get drenched with solvent. If you do it right it is a fast process.
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 6:41:18 AM EDT
Hey, Imbro had half an AR now!
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 4:31:13 PM EDT
Hey 187, I know exactly what you mean, I see that little shoulder in mine also. Thanks everyone, I will use your suggestions and shoot it a bunch for the time being and worry about it later. I only paid $800 dollars for it (private sale) with two new gi mags and a nice soft case, one of my better gun show deals lately, can't go wrong at that price..
Link Posted: 7/1/2001 6:33:53 PM EDT
My standard M1A only gets fieldstripped every 500-1000 rounds. The standard after-shooting cleaning is to lock the bolt back, swab the bore till the patches come out clean, hit the bolt face and receiver rails with a toothbrush, and put a couple drops of LSA on the recoil spring. It takes all of 5 minutes. On patrol I don't swab till the patches come out clean, just run a wet patch, brush, and a few dry patches through. I don't mess with the gas system unless it doesn't move freely when the bolt is locked back and the rifle is tilted back and forth. About once a year I totally degrease the rifle, use a .45 brush inside the gas cylinder, scrape the carbon from inside the gas cylinder plug, and put a light coat or grease on the rear sight rack and pinion. No unit commander is inspecting my rifle before I go home, so why go overboard? LOL
Top Top