I have a problem with .38's....(Now with more pics)

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - I have a problem with .38's....(Now with more pics)

Posted: 1/18/2013 6:42:32 PM EDT

...they keep following me home. Today I picked up a sad, tired looking pre-10 from the LGS, mainly because I had a spare Tyler-T grip for a K-frame sitting around the house. From what I can tell, it was made in 1921, is a 4th change hand ejector, and the barrel was changed out for a .38 s&w barrel at some point. Called Roy Jinks, he said it's fine, it left the factory as a .38 special, and that it was safe to fire .38 specials through it presuming it checks out. The finish looks like shit, but I'm almost not sure I want to refinish it

. I'm toying with trying to get the front sight cut down, maybe install a fiber optic or brass bead or something, and widen the rear sight so that you can actually see something, as the front is real thick, and the rear is a tiny-assed notch, and they do not work in conjunction. The ejector rod is messed up looking, and there's a "W" in the sideplate.
So, what say the hive? Where would I even look for a place that can cut the front sight/dovetail it, and widen the rear notch? Any thoughts on refinish for an old girl that's had a rough life?
Pics:

ETA: What I'm asking about, sight-wise, is if there's any real way to fix the old-school model so that the sights are usable, or even remotely correct to POA/POI, as compared to the Model 10 next to it:
Different front sight height:

And the rear sight's a pain in the ass:

Clark Custom Guns can possibly fix any timing or endshake issues, for $125 plus parts. I'm toying with firing it out to them, and seeing if they cannot correct the sight issue as well.

Posted: 1/18/2013 6:45:03 PM EDT

[#1]

Old cop gun.

Posted: 1/18/2013 6:45:40 PM EDT

[#2]

I don't have any advice on that pistol, but I can feel your pain. I keep acquiring .38s as well. I just picked up a well used and abused S&W Model 40 that a friend fitted a new cylinder to for me. The original one was trashed. We were able to save the barrel though.

Good luck with your new toy.

Posted: 1/18/2013 6:51:56 PM EDT

[#3]

I'd fix the sites and leave the finish as is.

Posted: 1/18/2013 6:55:48 PM EDT

[#4]

Quoted:

I'd fix the sites and leave the finish as is.

I might do just that.

Thoughts for places that offer such a service?

Posted: 1/18/2013 6:59:05 PM EDT

[#5]

Re finish? oh man

Either leave it alone or bead blast it and paint,duracoate or cerocote it to cover some of that up.

Has the action got any life left to it? is the timeing ok and does the bore have anything left?

Is pouring money down that rat hole ever going to create anything that can be shot? We can already
guess dumping cash on it is never going to make it worth more than you paid for it .

I would be tempted to soak it in oil.gently steel wool it and hang it on the wall as is

Posted: 1/18/2013 7:00:20 PM EDT

[#6]

A finely crafted machine that has stood the test of time.

Posted: 1/18/2013 7:02:17 PM EDT

[#7]

Quoted:

Re finish? oh man

Either leave it alone or bead blast it and paint,duracoate or cerocote it to cover some of that up.

Has the action got any life left to it? is the timeing ok and does the bore have anything left?

Is pouring money down that rat hole ever going to create anything that can be shot? We can already

guess dumping cash on it is never going to make it worth more than you paid for it .

I would be tempted to soak it in oil.gently steel wool it and hang it on the wall as is

I'd be tempted to parkerize it to give it a "victory model" feel, but nothing extravagant insofar as finish. I like the beat up look.

The action's about the same as most Taurus revolvers that I've seen lately; I have no qualms with shooting it. Bore's fine, the barrel's newer than the gun by far.

And I could easily put more into it than I paid for it; i got it for a song.

Posted: 1/18/2013 7:09:41 PM EDT

[#8]

That looks like a great S&W to practice action tuning, refinishing,etc. Try doing it yourself!
Check the timing, widen the rear notch carefully with a needle file and a good caliper, and then stovetop parkerize or otherwise heavily refinish it so that the grinding marks aren't as visible. Doubtful it will ever take a nice smooth blue again with all of that pitting, but that might even be worth trying if you're willing to spend a lot of time polishing away rust and scratches.

Posted: 1/18/2013 7:30:19 PM EDT

[#9]

Quoted:

That looks like a great S&W to practice action tuning, refinishing,etc. Try doing it yourself!

Check the timing, widen the rear notch carefully with a needle file and a good caliper, and then stovetop parkerize or otherwise heavily refinish it so that the grinding marks aren't as visible. Doubtful it will ever take a nice smooth blue again with all of that pitting, but that might even be worth trying if you're willing to spend a lot of time polishing away rust and scratches.

Tell me more.

Posted: 1/18/2013 7:42:54 PM EDT

[#10]

Parkerize it.

Posted: 1/18/2013 7:48:41 PM EDT

[#11]

I have a had a similar problem before

Posted: 1/19/2013 4:32:46 AM EDT

[#12]

As a thought: If i did want the action tightened up a little bit, is there anyplace that can do that? What about getting a replacement ejector rod with the correct head?

Posted: 1/19/2013 5:46:28 AM EDT

[#13]

Parkerize, barrel shroud, thread for silencer, install shoulder thing that goes up and a 30 rd mag. Make libs cry.

Posted: 1/19/2013 5:54:15 AM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
Parkerize, barrel shroud, thread for silencer, install shoulder thing that goes up and a 30 rd mag. Make libs cry.

kind of want to see that

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:23:34 AM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:

Quoted:
That looks like a great S&W to practice action tuning, refinishing,etc. Try doing it yourself!
Check the timing, widen the rear notch carefully with a needle file and a good caliper, and then stovetop parkerize or otherwise heavily refinish it so that the grinding marks aren't as visible. Doubtful it will ever take a nice smooth blue again with all of that pitting, but that might even be worth trying if you're willing to spend a lot of time polishing away rust and scratches.

Tell me more.

See here: Parkerizing a Pistol

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:31:33 AM EDT

[#16]

I like older finishes but that has none. I am with some of the others here and Park it.

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:36:54 AM EDT

[#17]

Was hoping this was a .38 Super thread.

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:58:49 AM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:

Quoted:
That looks like a great S&W to practice action tuning, refinishing,etc. Try doing it yourself!
Check the timing, widen the rear notch carefully with a needle file and a good caliper, and then stovetop parkerize or otherwise heavily refinish it so that the grinding marks aren't as visible. Doubtful it will ever take a nice smooth blue again with all of that pitting, but that might even be worth trying if you're willing to spend a lot of time polishing away rust and scratches.

Tell me more.

See here: Parkerizing a Pistol

OP you never cease to amaze me

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:59:35 AM EDT

[#19]

that handle has some dried semen on it

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:53:27 PM EDT

[#20]

Quoted:

that handle has some dried semen on it

It's actually black right there, i have no idea why that looks white.

Alternately......yes, yes it does.

Posted: 1/19/2013 6:56:14 PM EDT

[#21]

I shot my first .38spl today....now I need to buy a s&w 442.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:00:21 PM EDT

[#22]

Green park could look pretty cool.

I feel your pain though, I've only got one at home, but I've got a bunch of Colt .38s on my GunBroker watchlist... Someday I'll enherit a .38 Diamondback, and it just seems like it should have some friends.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:02:15 PM EDT

[#23]

Don't change a thing. And no fiber optic sight, yuck.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:06:33 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:

Don't change a thing. And no fiber optic sight, yuck.

What about a brass bead, or something? Suggestions are welcome.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:07:53 PM EDT

[#25]

Tape it to the back of the toilet tank.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:08:31 PM EDT

[#26]

Maybe widen the rear and a brass bead on the frong. Fiber-optics might just look "too new" for the overall feel of the gun.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:09:34 PM EDT

[#27]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Don't change a thing. And no fiber optic sight, yuck.

What about a brass bead, or something? Suggestions are welcome.

Hell yeah, brass or ivory bead. Seal the grips with satin varnish so they don't go so dry on you that they end up cracking. If you change the finish at all, rust brown the barrel to match the rest of the gun.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:20:57 PM EDT

[#28]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Don't change a thing. And no fiber optic sight, yuck.

What about a brass bead, or something? Suggestions are welcome.

Hell yeah, brass or ivory bead. Seal the grips with satin varnish so they don't go so dry on you that they end up cracking. If you change the finish at all, rust brown the barrel to match the rest of the gun.

Who does that?

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:28:05 PM EDT

[#29]

Quoted:
Who does that?

You can do it yourself at home. The only critical part is to degrease thoroughly.

plum brown solution

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:32:47 PM EDT

[#30]

I feel ya.....

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:33:06 PM EDT

[#31]

Here's an old Navy repro that's been given the plum brown treatment:

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:40:46 PM EDT

[#32]

Me too. I bought this Friday night.

Posted: 1/19/2013 7:47:24 PM EDT

[#33]

Leave as is, I got a shitload of 38s also, but all of mine are in nice shape.

Posted: 1/19/2013 8:02:57 PM EDT

[#34]

Quoted:
Parkerize it.

Posted: 1/19/2013 8:12:38 PM EDT

[#35]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Parkerize it.

And call it done. Don't even think about touching that front sight.

Posted: 1/20/2013 5:28:19 AM EDT

[#36]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Parkerize it.

And call it done. Don't even think about touching that front sight.

What if I could find a place that could turn the front/rear sight into the ramp arrangement of a "normal" model 10? Any thoughts on who does that?

Posted: 1/21/2013 5:59:40 PM EDT

[#37]

Quoted:

Quoted:

Parkerize it.

And call it done. Don't even think about touching that front sight.

What if I could find a place that could turn the front/rear sight into the ramp arrangement of a "normal" model 10? Any thoughts on who does that?

Alternately, if I got a place like Clark Custom to install a S&W adjustable rear on the old frame, would the front sight height be correct?

Posted: 1/21/2013 6:00:53 PM EDT

[#38]

Oh I thoguht it may be because they dont shoot .357s

Posted: 1/22/2013 6:22:55 AM EDT

[#39]

More pictures, because MOAR!

Pics of the .38s that're nearby me right now:

Posted: 1/22/2013 6:54:34 AM EDT

[#40]

A 1921 era Smith with (probably) a WW 2 era Birtish barrel. Why it was swapped out is anyone's guess. Originally Smith front sites were 0.10 inch in width. Sometime later they went to an eighth of an inch, which is why the rear is incompatible. The grips also appear to be WW 2 issue. A bit of a mutt, likely no collector value. Not sure I would spend a lot of money on refurb.

Note that 38 S&W bore is slightly larger (normally) than 38 Special. Accuracy may not be all that good.

Posted: 1/22/2013 6:56:25 AM EDT

[#41]

Quoted:

A 1921 era Smith with (probably) a WW 2 era Birtish barrel. Why it was swapped out is anyone's guess. Originally Smith front sites were 0.10 inch in width. Sometime later they went to an eighth of an inch, which is why the rear is incompatible. The grips also appear to be WW 2 issue. A bit of a mutt, likely no collector value. Not sure I would spend a lot of money on refurb.

Note that 38 S&W bore is slightly larger (normally) than 38 Special. Accuracy may not be all that good.

That information is excellent, and exactly the sort of thing I was hoping would come out by posting this thread. Thank you much!

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - I have a problem with .38's....(Now with more pics)

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