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Posted: 10/28/2010 7:13:58 AM EDT




S&w model 36 serial 74x,xxx





any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?



















it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.






supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.






oh yeah..paid $350 for it.




EDIT: more pics













 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:17:25 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
S&W model 36 serial 74x,xxx
any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?

it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.
supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.
oh yeah..paid $350 for it.
EDIT: more pics
 


No.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:21:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
Quoted:
S&W model 36 serial 74x,xxx
any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?

it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.
supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.
oh yeah..paid $350 for it.
EDIT: more pics
 


No.


 


I usually go by what the barrel is marked.

Don't run +P's in it either.  

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:21:57 AM EDT
[#3]
am I missing something?
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:24:47 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
am I missing something?


Large crappy pics?

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:27:21 AM EDT
[#5]



Quoted:



Quoted:

am I missing something?




Large crappy pics?



yea yea..






 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:29:16 AM EDT
[#6]



Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:

S&W model 36 serial 74x,xxx
any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?




it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.

supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.

oh yeah..paid $350 for it.

EDIT: more pics

 




No.




 





I usually go by what the barrel is marked.



Don't run +P's in it either.  



well thats a given, but i've read about some s&w that could handle them..i've dug around, can find not too much about specifics, other than that is a "chief"  thats why i'm askin here.





 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:32:02 AM EDT
[#7]
Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:32:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:33:10 AM EDT
[#9]
A .357 caliber revolver CAN shoot .38 cal.

A .38 cal revolver, like the Model 36 that you have here, can NOT shoot .357

A .357 round is longer than a .38 round and will not allow the cylinder to revolve. ETA: At least it freaking shouldn't.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:33:46 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
S&W model 36 serial 74x,xxx
any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?

it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.
supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.
oh yeah..paid $350 for it.
EDIT: more pics
 


No.


Yup, .357 is a huge power increase over +P .38 Special.  Even +P .38 is too much for it.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:34:31 AM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
A .357 caliber revolver CAN shoot .38 cal.

A .38 cal revolver, like the Model 36 that you have here, can NOT shoot .357

A .357 round is longer than a .38 round and will not allow the cylinder to revolve.


Can't believe I overlooked that obvious fact...
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:36:04 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
A .357 caliber revolver CAN shoot .38 cal.

A .38 cal revolver, like the Model 36 that you have here, can NOT shoot .357

A .357 round is longer than a .38 round and will not allow the cylinder to revolve.


The fact that this info needed sharing shocks me.  Some 38s have cylinders that let some 357 loads fit, but still- does anyone really try to put 357 into a 38?  

I guess the correct answer is "not more than once"  
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:38:07 AM EDT
[#13]
Gotta learn some time.  Nice pistol.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:44:35 AM EDT
[#14]
But yes, it is a cool revolver. I dig it.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:45:49 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me


He's fine with standard pressure .38Spl.  Unless he handloads, the only real option for low pressure commercial ammo are the "cowboy" loads.  They're usually more expensive, so it might not be his favorite choice.

I have an old .38Spl Colt from around the same age and I load it with 124gr Meister lead bullets over 4.4gr of HP-38 (identical to Win231).  Everything works just fine.  
Max load to stay within .38Spl (NOT +P) SAAMI specs is listed at around 4.6 to 4.8 grains depending on which book/resource you're using.  So my loads are a little below maximum, but they work fine, they're accurate and I can use a volume measure which saves me time.  
I've also put current factory .38Spl (again, not +P) through the gun with absolutely no problems.


I use HP-38 in all of my C&Rs right now just because it simplifies inventory.  It works with jacketed and lead rounds, no problems in an auto and it burns relatively clean.  It's also relatively slow-burning for a pistol powder so pressure levels are on the low end.  Lead bullets are cheap and most of my C&R pistol rounds cost me below 15cents a pop.


OP, feel free to use any factory .38Spl you like.  Don't go +P and .357 won't even fit.
If you handload, I like to stay 85-90% of max load so I can use a volume powder measure to save time.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:46:36 AM EDT
[#16]
If you can manage to hammer a .357 round into the chamber, fire away! You may need a big rubber mallet. Post AAR pics.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:47:47 AM EDT
[#17]
but .357 is smaller than .38
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:49:14 AM EDT
[#18]
Quoted:
If you can manage to hammer a .357 round into the chamber, fire away! You may need a big rubber mallet. Post AAR pics of the blood


Fixed.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:52:01 AM EDT
[#19]
$350 for that?  What am I missing?  
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:52:40 AM EDT
[#20]



Quoted:



Quoted:

Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me




He's fine with standard pressure .38Spl.  Unless he handloads, the only real option for low pressure commercial ammo are the "cowboy" loads.  They're usually more expensive, so it might not be his favorite choice.



I have an old .38Spl Colt from around the same age and I load it with 124gr Meister lead bullets over 4.4gr of HP-38 (identical to Win231).  Everything works just fine.  

Max load to stay within .38Spl (NOT +P) SAAMI specs is listed at around 4.6 to 4.8 grains depending on which book/resource you're using.  So my loads are a little below maximum, but they work fine, they're accurate and I can use a volume measure which saves me time.  

I've also put current factory .38Spl (again, not +P) through the gun with absolutely no problems.





I use HP-38 in all of my C&Rs right now just because it simplifies inventory.  It works with jacketed and lead rounds, no problems in an auto and it burns relatively clean.  It's also relatively slow-burning for a pistol powder so pressure levels are on the low end.  Lead bullets are cheap and most of my C&R pistol rounds cost me below 15cents a pop.





OP, feel free to use any factory .38Spl you like.  Don't go +P and .357 won't even fit.

If you handload, I like to stay 85-90% of max load so I can use a volume powder measure to save time.


much thanks sir

 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:53:38 AM EDT
[#21]
Quoted:
Quoted:
am I missing something?


Large crappy pics?



No

The fact that it is a .38 spl (and one of older vintage even) and someone thinks it might be ok to stoke it with .357 magnum
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 7:54:17 AM EDT
[#22]



Quoted:


$350 for that?  What am I missing?  


well look at the average prices for them..I've seen some go for $700..which is waaayyy tooo much if you ask me.

 


Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:10:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Quoted:

Quoted:
$350 for that?  What am I missing?  

well look at the average prices for them..I've seen some go for $700..which is waaayyy tooo much if you ask me.  



Any S&W revolver commands a premium price. A new Model 36 could sell for 600-700...
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:15:37 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted:
$350 for that?  What am I missing?  


I'm going to say a general understanding of firearms and classic revolvers.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:17:22 AM EDT
[#25]



Quoted:


Do not put .357s in that.


If you do, be sure to post the video.



 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:19:25 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
S&W model 36 serial 74x,xxx
any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?

it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.
supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.
oh yeah..paid $350 for it.
EDIT: more pics
 


No.


Yup, .357 is a huge power increase over +P .38 Special.  Even +P .38 is too much for it.


i has one. 38+P worked for me...

practice though with wad-cutters.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:25:13 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me


What does a hole drilled in the end of the bullet have to do with anything?

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:27:15 AM EDT
[#28]



Quoted:



Quoted:

Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me




What does a hole drilled in the end of the bullet have to do with anything?





more transfer of energy when it hits the target, and more of a nasty wound  

 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:30:44 AM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
S&W model 36 serial 74x,xxx
any info on this?  year made? can it handle .357?

it seems pretty aged to me, it has wear from the holster on the barrel and chamber, no major defects.
supposed to be a retired LEO's..someone bought it at his estate auction, then i bought it f2f.
oh yeah..paid $350 for it.
EDIT: more pics
 


No.


Yup, .357 is a huge power increase over +P .38 Special.  Even +P .38 is too much for it.


i has one. 38+P worked for me...

practice though with wad-cutters.


NYS DEC issued these to their investigators for many years.  They issued +P to shoot with it.
The one my father carried had like 10k +P through it without a hiccup.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:31:03 AM EDT
[#30]
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:34:56 AM EDT
[#31]
There is a whole lot of ignorance going on in this thread.

It is a nice revolver. Pretty worn, but I am sure it still functions fine. $350 is an OK price.

You can NOT put .357 in a .38 –– Even if a .357 did fit (which it usually won't because most .357 is too long) it would Kaboom the gun. (You CAN put .38 in a .357 however).

You may not want to put too many high pressure (+P) .38 loads through it, since they will put a lot of stress on the old thing...but it can definitely shoot +Ps just fine.

Hollow points are fine...that makes NO difference.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:35:42 AM EDT
[#32]



Quoted:


Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?



Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.





38 S.&W. SPL.  
I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.

 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:36:06 AM EDT
[#33]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:
Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me


What does a hole drilled in the end of the bullet have to do with anything?


more transfer of energy when it hits the target, and more of a nasty wound    


My question was what effect does the hollow bullet have on the gun that would cause someone to avoid using them?
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:37:21 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?

Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.



Jesus. No. Just...No.
It is an S&W model 36. That is a .38 caliber revolver. NOT A .357

And this is terrible advice. Some .357 rounds MAY just fit into this THIRTY EIGHT CALIBER gun –– but if fired, WOULD EXPLODE THE GUN AND CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.

Just because a .357 round fits into a gun does NOT mean that the gun is a .357 caliber revolver.

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:39:08 AM EDT
[#35]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?

Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.


38 S.&W. SPL.  
I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.    


NOOOOOO!!!

IT IS NOT A .357 CALIBER GUN.

A .357 round is NOT just a "hot" .38 round...It is a completely different round than the .38...the only similarity is the diameter.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:54:17 AM EDT
[#36]





Quoted:





Quoted:
Quoted:


Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?





Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.








38 S.&W. SPL.  

I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.    






NOOOOOO!!!





IT IS NOT A .357 CALIBER GUN.





A .357 round is NOT just a "hot" .38 round...It is a completely different round than the .38...the only similarity is the diameter.
i understand its a different grain bullet..etc..won't try..

anyhow just sticking too .38 SPL its what the gun was designed for, years of reliable use and somewhat overbuilt for this round, no use in risking hurting or killing myself for a test..not to mention kabooming a perfectly good little snubby.

as for the serial # 74X,XXX  any ideas on the year it was made anyone?


best i could find was around mid 60's..but i may be wrong.


 

 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 8:54:55 AM EDT
[#37]



Quoted:



Quoted:




Quoted:


Quoted:

Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me




What does a hole drilled in the end of the bullet have to do with anything?





more transfer of energy when it hits the target, and more of a nasty wound    




My question was what effect does the hollow bullet have on the gun that would cause someone to avoid using them?
absolutely none..aside from personal preference.





 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:01:00 AM EDT
[#38]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:
Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?

Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.


38 S.&W. SPL.  
I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.    


NOOOOOO!!!

IT IS NOT A .357 CALIBER GUN.

A .357 round is NOT just a "hot" .38 round...It is a completely different round than the .38...the only similarity is the diameter.
i understand its a different grain bullet..etc..won't try..


 


The "different grain" bullet isn't the issue

The issue is the pressure that the .357 magnum operates at versus the pressure the .38 spl operates at.  35,000 approx for the .357 versus 17,000 approx for the .38.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:01:45 AM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:
Beautiful little revolver ya got there.  I’d stick to running low pressure non hollow point loads through the lil’ guy.  But that's just me


What does a hole drilled in the end of the bullet have to do with anything?


more transfer of energy when it hits the target, and more of a nasty wound    


My question was what effect does the hollow bullet have on the gun that would cause someone to avoid using them?
absolutely none..aside from personal preference.

 


Hollow point factory rounds tend to be loaded hotter than regular rounds I believe.

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:02:46 AM EDT
[#40]



Quoted:



Quoted:




Quoted:


Quoted:




Quoted:

Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?



Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.





38 S.&W. SPL.  
I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.    




NOOOOOO!!!



IT IS NOT A .357 CALIBER GUN.



A .357 round is NOT just a "hot" .38 round...It is a completely different round than the .38...the only similarity is the diameter.
i understand its a different grain bullet..etc..won't try..




 




The "different grain" bullet isn't the issue



The issue is the pressure that the .357 magnum operates at versus the pressure the .38 spl operates at.  35,000 approx for the .357 versus 17,000 approx for the .38.
the weight of the projectile, is resistance, that plus the longer casing..more powder..= more pressure.





 
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:05:16 AM EDT
[#41]



Quoted:





Quoted:


Quoted:




Quoted:

Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?



Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.





38 S.&W. SPL.  
I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.    




NOOOOOO!!!



IT IS NOT A .357 CALIBER GUN.



A .357 round is NOT just a "hot" .38 round...It is a completely different round than the .38...the only similarity is the diameter.
i understand its a different grain bullet..etc..won't try..
anyhow just sticking too .38 SPL its what the gun was designed for, years of reliable use and somewhat overbuilt for this round, no use in risking hurting or killing myself for a test..not to mention kabooming a perfectly good little snubby.

as for the serial # 74X,XXX  any ideas on the year it was made anyone?

best i could find was around mid 60's..but i may be wrong.  
 


this is what i want to find out if at all possible..
thanks for the advice and info so far guys.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:13:15 AM EDT
[#42]
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:16:24 AM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:
Quoted:
A .357 caliber revolver CAN shoot .38 cal.

A .38 cal revolver, like the Model 36 that you have here, can NOT shoot .357

A .357 round is longer than a .38 round and will not allow the cylinder to revolve.


The fact that this info needed sharing shocks me.  Some 38s have cylinders that let some 357 loads fit, but still- does anyone really try to put 357 into a 38?  

I guess the correct answer is "not more than once"  


I just figured that 38's wouldn't even fit .357's.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:18:31 AM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:

I swear, 80% of GD needs a picture drawn to understand a joke or sarcasm.



We need that motivational pic!

Link Posted: 10/28/2010 9:19:13 AM EDT
[#45]
Quoted:
Do not put .357s in that.


Or, at least, don't insist on the cylinder closing if you do.

Or, if you do insist on the cylinder closing, at least use a non-marring mallet.

ETA- dammit, beat to the mallet  Ya gotta be fast!
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 10:15:39 AM EDT
[#46]
Quoted:
Quoted:
A .357 caliber revolver CAN shoot .38 cal.

A .38 cal revolver, like the Model 36 that you have here, can NOT shoot .357

A .357 round is longer than a .38 round and will not allow the cylinder to revolve.


The fact that this info needed sharing shocks me.  Some 38s have cylinders that let some 357 loads fit, but still- does anyone really try to put 357 into a 38?  

I guess the correct answer is "not more than once"  


In one of the "tales from a gunshop" threads a poster mentioned a guy who bought some .357 for a revolver, and came in bitching that he had to shave the tips off the bullets to get them to fit.
His hand was heavily bandaged when he was complaing. Do the math.

ETA-the OP's question is why Hornady LeverEvolution ammo scares me a bit. For some reason, they use a case that's shorter than normal .357. Somewhere halfway between .38 and other .357 in length(don't have any of the three handy to measure, but it's visibly shorter). Maybe shorter by enough to fit in a .38 if someone was dumb enough to try before asking if it would be OK. LeverEvolution seems loaded quite hot too, hotter than a load like WWB hollowpoints.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 12:03:45 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:

Quoted:
Does the barrel show ".357 Magnum"?

Here's something you can try; put one .357 Mag cartridge in the cylinder, outdoors pointing in a safe direction, then try to close the cylinder.


38 S.&W. SPL.  
I may try to see if one fits, but I'm too much of a bitch to shoot it after reading about hot loads and jframes blowing up.    


NOOOOOO!!!

IT IS NOT A .357 CALIBER GUN.

A .357 round is NOT just a "hot" .38 round...It is a completely different round than the .38...the only similarity is the diameter.
i understand its a different grain bullet..etc..won't try..


 


The "different grain" bullet isn't the issue

The issue is the pressure that the .357 magnum operates at versus the pressure the .38 spl operates at.  35,000 approx for the .357 versus 17,000 approx for the .38.
the weight of the projectile, is resistance, that plus the longer casing..more powder..= more pressure.

 


So you think you would be ok shooting some 110 gr .357 magnum since the bullet weight is lower than a 158 gr .38 spl load?

Don't try and be pedantic with me.

You are the one who posted wanting to know if you could shoot a completely different round in your firearm than the round it was chambered for.
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 1:42:49 PM EDT
[#48]
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 2:02:50 PM EDT
[#49]
The correct answer to the OP is "Sure, go ahead and load it up with .357s, and give it a whirl."



Because as he will shortly find out after trying that, that the cylinder won't fit back in the frame...
Link Posted: 10/28/2010 2:04:25 PM EDT
[#50]




Quoted:

the OP's question is why Hornady LeverEvolution ammo scares me a bit. For some reason, they use a case that's shorter than normal .357. Somewhere halfway between .38 and other .357 in length





Srsly? I need to try some of that brass, then.





OP, as much as I hesitated to even join this thread, for fear the stupid will climb off the screen and infect me, I can tell you that your Model 36 was made roughly in 1968 or 1969. Probably '69.





Edit: If the grips shown are original to the gun (and I'm assuming they are), the gun was certainly made in the latter half of 1968 or early 1969. In 1968, the diamond around the grip escutcheon was deleting from production, and yours is similarly lacking the diamond.
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