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9/17/2020 5:59:48 PM
Posted: 3/9/2010 8:58:29 AM EDT
I took it to the range today and put some Wolf through it

My first FAL and I'm an average shooter, I love the skinny front sight post.

50yds



100yds You can see that I adjusted the sights



200yds




Not bad at all IMO, I'm very pleased and this may be my new long distance hurricane gun
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 8:59:44 AM EDT
No rifle pics?
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 8:59:53 AM EDT
Imbel kit parts build??  Or does CAI get their parts from another source?
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:01:22 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Feier:
No rifle pics?


Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:02:04 AM EDT
Think you're going to love how reliable thoose guns can be.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:02:11 AM EDT
no gun porn?
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:04:38 AM EDT
Cool.



Now post some pics of the gun!
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:05:50 AM EDT
Originally Posted By MSC182:
Originally Posted By Feier:
No rifle pics?




DOH!! I knew that I was forgetting something





..and the gun doesn't even have an Imbel receiver so no idea what parts kits was used.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:08:57 AM EDT
Looks like maybe an STG-58 kit.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:09:23 AM EDT
My new DSA STG58 was a jam o matic, kinda scared me away from FALs. Glad yours like so many other I read about is reliable.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:09:57 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/9/2010 9:10:35 AM EDT by Mal_means_bad]
Does Century usually not fuck these up, or did Ghetto get lucky?
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:11:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/9/2010 9:17:27 AM EDT by offctr]
Centry L1A1 was my first FAL, only problems I had were ––crappy furniture, later upgraded and the Century gas piston bent up in the gas tube (common problem with CAI's US made piston) replaced with another US made brand and no issues from there. Some were mising the allen screw locking the front sight pin (in hole in front of gas block) at whatever elevation make sure its there and tight after any adjustments. OH and if it has one of the CAI muzzle breaks on it SOME still have the threads underneath and are secured by a welded over pin, easy to replace with an original L1 flashider if you are not in a still banned state.

looks like you got the STG pattern/type rifle as opposed to the L1 ––same thing I'd remove the CAI muzzle break and put on an stolle or browning  flashider  sometimes they are sliver solderd sometimes pinned/welded a darkspot at the 6o'clock position of the break will tell you if its pinned usually.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:11:53 AM EDT
Ahh the old trick of cutting out the black part of the target

I kid, looks like you got a good one.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:12:13 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/9/2010 9:12:35 AM EDT by nick89302]
0/10, no pics.

Amended score: 10/10
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:12:27 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Windustsearch:
Looks like maybe an STG-58 kit.


Anyway to get the funky muzzle break off of it? I'd prefer the traditional one

Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:13:36 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Ghetto:
Originally Posted By Windustsearch:
Looks like maybe an STG-58 kit.


Anyway to get the funky muzzle break off of it? I'd prefer the traditional one

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy263/ww1917/001-2.jpg


That's a German G1 flash hider and goes on a lugged barrel.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:15:05 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Mal_means_bad:
Does Century usually not fuck these up, or did Ghetto get lucky?


Hit and miss...  The good thing is that the FAL is very AR like.  It's easy to correct problems on Century guns IF they used Imbel receivers.  If the receiver is out of spec, your skills may need to be higher...
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:15:27 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Windustsearch:
Originally Posted By Ghetto:
Originally Posted By Windustsearch:
Looks like maybe an STG-58 kit.


Anyway to get the funky muzzle break off of it? I'd prefer the traditional one

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy263/ww1917/001-2.jpg


That's a German G1 flash hider and goes on a lugged barrel.


Doh again!

Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:16:17 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/9/2010 9:24:38 AM EDT by Windustsearch]
It could be a home build on a Century receiver, or a Century build (not sure whether they used STG-58s or not).  Try twisting it off first, it should be left hand threaded (twist clockwise).  It's possible it was pinned on or sweated on.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:17:20 AM EDT
Originally Posted By Ghetto:
Originally Posted By Windustsearch:
Originally Posted By Ghetto:
Originally Posted By Windustsearch:
Looks like maybe an STG-58 kit.


Anyway to get the funky muzzle break off of it? I'd prefer the traditional one

http://i798.photobucket.com/albums/yy263/ww1917/001-2.jpg


That's a German G1 flash hider and goes on a lugged barrel.


Doh again!

http://pics.gunbroker.com/GB/160062000/160062387/pix360841640.jpg


Those are L1A1/SLR flash hiders, they are right hand thread and need the barrels with a slot to fit the key into.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:18:53 AM EDT
yep you want to go with a stolle, imbel or long browning flashider with left hand threads.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:31:40 AM EDT
the muzzle breaks can be a bit tricky to remove the soldered ones ––heat the break up till the solder runs out underneath the brake then twist it off while the solder is still hot heat the brake from the tip while the barrel is held in a vise and dont heat the bbl too much as it can bend if you get tit too hot ––keep the torch moving and try to stay on the muzzle end of the break.
OR
Pinned ––- best way I found was to hacksaw down the center of the break to just shy of the bbl muzzle then use a dremel with a cutting wheel to groove the top and bottom of the break the rest of the way down as far as you dare without touching the bbl tape up behind the brake to protect the bbl finish once you have done that put a chisel in the end of you cut and split the brake lengthwise (splits easy) that way you wont booger the threads gettin it off or get driven crazy drilling the pin out
OR
you cut the bbl behind the brake and rethread  and put what you want on it––also easy with a TAT (thread alignment tool) and die.
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 9:48:40 AM EDT
Originally Posted By offctr:
the muzzle breaks can be a bit tricky to remove the soldered ones ––heat the break up till the solder runs out underneath the brake then twist it off while the solder is still hot heat the brake from the tip while the barrel is held in a vise and dont heat the bbl too much as it can bend if you get tit too hot ––keep the torch moving and try to stay on the muzzle end of the break.
OR
Pinned ––- best way I found was to hacksaw down the center of the break to just shy of the bbl muzzle then use a dremel with a cutting wheel to groove the top and bottom of the break the rest of the way down as far as you dare without touching the bbl tape up behind the brake to protect the bbl finish once you have done that put a chisel in the end of you cut and split the brake lengthwise (splits easy) that way you wont booger the threads gettin it off or get driven crazy drilling the pin out
OR
you cut the bbl behind the brake and rethread  and put what you want on it––also easy with a TAT (thread alignment tool) and die.


Thanks!
Link Posted: 3/9/2010 1:06:29 PM EDT
Originally Posted By m-dc:
My new DSA STG58 was a jam o matic, kinda scared me away from FALs. Glad yours like so many other I read about is reliable.


Did you return it to DSA under warranty? Also are you sure it is a DSA build? Lots of folks built lots of rifles on DSA receivers.
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