Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
BCM
User Panel

Arrow Left Previous Page
Page / 3
Posted: 1/26/2009 1:50:04 PM EST
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:51:42 PM EST
[#1]
Did you check for stray goose feathers?
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:52:14 PM EST
[#2]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:52:40 PM EST
[#3]
Your goose is cooked!
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:54:35 PM EST
[#4]
My buddy did the same thing. So he called me. I'm NOT an HVAC tech, but I've wired a few dozen.



Go to your furnace, remove the cover and if you can read the schematic look for a fuse. you will more then likely find a blown one.



replace.



fixed.



or you wired it wrong and are screwed. my vote is on the fuse.



Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:55:00 PM EST
[#5]
Does the new one take batteries? I did the same thing when installing mine and I caused no harm.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:56:58 PM EST
[#6]
Look for a reset button on the furnace... If I get a power surge mine will trip and it won't run till I reset it

Falcon
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:57:16 PM EST
[#7]
There is a fuse near the furnace, usually an old twist in type.  Look at that first.

Second, put the old thermostat back on, see if it functions.

If it doesn't (or you don't get heat) have another person stand at the thermostat and turn the heat off while you stand in front of the furnace (take the cover off first).  Watch the startup sequence and note any flashing lights on the board (this will be a long short long type code for an error).

Often there are manuals (and should contain error codes and startup sequences so you can spot the problem).

But, check the fuse first.

Yeah, unfortunately you may have blown the logic board.  Those are not cheap, and probably will require installation by a HVAC professional.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:57:28 PM EST
[#8]
I must add this.



We didn't have a fuse that was even close, you'd be amazed that a paperclip can work overnight until you get to a store.



Just sayin'...




(the small spark gave it away. Fuse.)
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:59:05 PM EST
[#9]
Not a breaker––the thermostat is low voltage.

Got a multimeter? Test for current between the thermostat wires.

I'd bet in your furnace as well, but I'm not HVAC or an electrician.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:59:35 PM EST
[#10]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 1:59:43 PM EST
[#11]
You might want to finish connecting the wires before you fix the fuse too
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:00:58 PM EST
[#12]
Space heaters FTW, dude!  Lowe's has some nice ones.  The ones that look like radiators and heat oil inside them are the most efficient.

At least they'll get you through your visit until you can get an HVAC man out.  Just explain the circumstances honestly and that's all you can do.  Your guest should appreciate the efforts you were making to improve their comfort when disaster struck.

Also, ALWAYS shut power off at the master breaker before fooling around with ANY kind of an installation like that!
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:01:42 PM EST
[#13]
You fried the the fuse or the bus where the thermostat wires connect to inside the boiler or furnace cpu. Do your other t-stats work?

Oh yeah, next time kill the breaker.

Post pics of the cpu so someone can find a schematic and possibly a fuse spec for you.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:01:45 PM EST
[#14]
Take a picture of the furnace, maybe one of these guys could point out the fuse
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:02:37 PM EST
[#15]
I'm the first one to call dibs if you can't fix the fuse and your wife come home to a cold house?

At least I didn't make the first goose joke!
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:03:53 PM EST
[#16]
Quoted:
My buddy did the same thing. So he called me. I'm NOT an HVAC tech, but I've wired a few dozen.

Go to your furnace, remove the cover and if you can read the schematic look for a fuse. you will more then likely find a blown one.

replace.

fixed.

or you wired it wrong and are screwed. my vote is on the fuse.



If i was him i would pray for this.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:04:05 PM EST
[#17]
Quoted:
There is a fuse near the furnace, usually an old twist in type.  Look at that first.

Second, put the old thermostat back on, see if it functions.

If it doesn't (or you don't get heat) have another person stand at the thermostat and turn the heat off while you stand in front of the furnace (take the cover off first).  Watch the startup sequence and note any flashing lights on the board (this will be a long short long type code for an error).

Often there are manuals (and should contain error codes and startup sequences so you can spot the problem).

But, check the fuse first.

Yeah, unfortunately you may have blown the logic board.  Those are not cheap, and probably will require installation by a HVAC professional.


Agree on this,if there is no fuse

Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:05:12 PM EST
[#18]
Not sure what model Carrier you have, but here is A schematic.



Note 11b FUSE



Yours will have one too.



google is your friend.




Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:06:10 PM EST
[#19]
Can you tell us make and model of the furnace so we can figure out what type of controls or main board it has and if there is an internal fuse or not.Also if you open the main panel on the furnace ther may be a schematic with some basic troubleshooting info.
ETA nevermind I see that was done while I was posting.
hopefully 11b is not built into the casing of the transformer. Should be easy enough to check the output with a voltmeter though.

see the box on the other side of the schematic from the fuse 11b there is a fused output just past the "aux junction box" with a optional fused switch which looks like your thermostat inputs would wire into it. check the output of the transformer and its fuse (24VAC) and if thats good I would look at that fused switch area for another fuse possibly inside the junction box.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:07:39 PM EST
[#20]
Does the thermostat have batteries in it? how many wires connect your thermostat to the furnace?   if it's 2 a milli-volt system.  all the thermostat does is close a switch between the 2 wires, signaling the furnace to start.  IF IT IS A MILLIVOLT SYSTEM connecting  the 2 wires together at the thermostat will tell your furnace to start.  if it doesn't, then the problem is not the thermostat. my bet would be a reset on the furnace itself.


disregard if it's not a millivolt thermostat.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:07:57 PM EST
[#21]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:09:26 PM EST
[#22]
These things run on 24 volts. You most likely damaged your control circuit. Call a HVAC serviceman.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:10:02 PM EST
[#23]
You've got a fuse hidden someplace.  It took me about 20 minutes to find the one for my furnace.  I replaced it and immediately popped the damn thing again.  So when I went back for the second fuse, it's a screw in type, I spend the extra 7 bucks and got the kind that's actually a breaker and not a fuse.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:10:32 PM EST
[#24]
Ok, ive been working furnaces for 10 years now.  If this is a newer type furnace (10 - 12 years old, thereabouts)

You probably blew the low voltage fuse.  It is exactly an automotive type fuse.  It is located on the circuit board, most likely in the lower section of the furnace, probably in front of the blower.  They put it down there to keep the circuit board cool.

If you cant find it or that doesnt seem the problem -IM me, and I can probably help.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:12:11 PM EST
[#25]
As I've read somewhere on here before... Pics or GTFO!  




Still betting on the fuse. What type of Carrier? Model #?
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:12:33 PM EST
[#26]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:13:13 PM EST
[#27]
remove the lower cover. take another pic.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:13:26 PM EST
[#28]
Tell her it's the hope and change Obama promised her, it just feels like cold air
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:14:28 PM EST
[#29]
REMEMBER TO CAP YOUR T-STAT WIRES OR INSTALL TEH NEW T-STAT BEFORE YOU PUT THE NEW FUSE IN AND TURN THE BREAKER BACK ON.

Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:14:37 PM EST
[#30]
it will more than likely be on the printed circuit board.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:14:55 PM EST
[#31]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:16:01 PM EST
[#32]
i has big hammers
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:17:48 PM EST
[#33]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:19:28 PM EST
[#34]
Quoted:
remove the lower cover. take another pic.

this

Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:19:46 PM EST
[#35]
Look for one of these. Although the metal wire inside it will more than likely be a lot smaller.




Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:20:24 PM EST
[#36]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:20:55 PM EST
[#37]
did you pull it out to see if it was blown?
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:21:07 PM EST
[#38]
I think the wife will kill him!

Dibs on guns,ammo,mags.

Or put the old one up and about 20min after she comes in say, "Is it cold in here?"
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:21:26 PM EST
[#39]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:21:30 PM EST
[#40]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:22:09 PM EST
[#41]
Ahhhh... newer style fuse.



Pull it out and see  if the wire is blown out on the inside of the fuse. you'll know it when you see it.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:22:20 PM EST
[#42]
Quoted:
I can see DK frantically running back and forth from the furnace to the computer.

It should be hilarious when the missus drives up and he has shit tore all to hell, he is covered in the gunk that is always inside the covers of a furnace and he looks at her and says "What?"



Yeah then we help him fix it and he gets pie for being a handyman and not having to call service.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:22:58 PM EST
[#43]
Shine a light on that purple fuse, after you dusted it, and you should be able to see if it's blowed.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:23:18 PM EST
[#44]
Yes, that's probably the culprit.

Its a 3A auto fuse.

Finish hooking up the new T-stat first, then change the fuse.

From the manual:

The 24-v circuit contains an automotive-type, 3-amp fuse located
on the main control board. Any 24-v shorts during installation,
service, or maintenance could cause this fuse to blow. If fuse
replacement is required, use ONLY a 3-amp fuse of identical size.

Pg. 8

http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/58wav-9si.pdf

ETA: "Borrow" one from your car if you have a 3 amper and it will fit.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:24:19 PM EST
[#45]
There is some useful info in this thread, and I think the experts are circling in on the solution, so permit me this brief digression/comment:

Dude, you're supposed to fry bacon, not thermostats.
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:24:31 PM EST
[#46]
blown fuse.




Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:25:03 PM EST
[#47]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:25:09 PM EST
[#48]
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:25:53 PM EST
[#49]
sounds like you took out your low voltage transformer, there may be an inline fuse if your lucky. Get a multimeter and ohm out the tranformer. If you have an open winding, get the numbers off of it and pick up new one at Grainger for about $15.(HVAC guy price=$125+
Link Posted: 1/26/2009 2:26:19 PM EST
[#50]
You can take one out of your car. or....



anything to get by for the night.
Arrow Left Previous Page
Page / 3
Close Join Our Mail List to Stay Up To Date! Win a FREE Membership!

Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!

You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.


By signing up you agree to our User Agreement. *Must have a registered ARFCOM account to win.
Top Top