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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 12/22/2005 11:06:10 AM EDT
My wife is in the hospital so, the heat quits, mostly, I mean why shouldn't it.

The blower motor has to be hand spun to start, sometimes. Other times it starts by itself.

When it runs it runs at a greatly reduced speed.

Me thinks that it is a bad circuit in it of some sort....and that the motor needs to be replaced.

On AC it also runs at reduced speed. The AC 'seems' to run the blower faster but that is probably just me.

So, any opinions/advice?


Mike S

(I changed the bi-metalic strip, the 'new' one works, just like the 'old' one did. ( I bought a new one and put it in the last time the blower motor starting circuit went out, of course that was not the problem but at least I have a working spare to use in troubleshooting.))
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 11:18:15 AM EDT
Ju got a bad capacitor and/or motor. replace em.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 11:27:30 AM EDT
Start with the capacitor - its a lot cheaper than a new motor.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 11:28:17 AM EDT

Originally Posted By PhilipPeake:
Start with the capacitor - its a lot cheaper than a new motor.

True. They also make "boost" capacitors to add on that will help for a little while.
Link Posted: 12/22/2005 11:55:57 AM EDT
It may be a bad capacitor but it will probably end up being bad windings in the motor.

The evap motor will blow at a faster RPM on Cool than on Heat if you have gas.

Most all Electric units use the same speed.

Are you mechanically and electrically inclined?

Can you change the motor yourself?

If you can get me all the info on the motor and how it mounts and I'll see if I can fix you up.

Where are you located in our Great State?

IM me if you want to.


Link Posted: 12/22/2005 6:34:38 PM EDT
Thanks guys.

BigDozer66, yup, I'm in Texas, in San Antonio.

In the past I have been back on the far side of the unit and looked at how the motor was mounted, it looked easy to change. My real problem is getting around to it. It is appearing that my wife might have surgery for Christmas. That sure puts a monkey wrench into all plans.

If you are local and can help, it sure would be great. If not then I'll tackle it after my wife gets out of the hospital.

If I do it I'm planning on taking out the old motor/capicator and taking it to Johnstone Supply and getting a replacement. I've been back onto the 'dark side' of the unit but don't remember the details, except think that it looked easy to change.

My only problem is that I'm old and fat and don't fit around the unit very easily. But, our son is in the early 20's and is slender (but about 6' 3"). He can fit in there better than I can. He's a motorcycle wizz but has no experience with this sort of thing. But, ya gotta learn sometime!

Do I have this right, that some of the windings can go out but not all of them and the motor will run slower, at reduced power and also will not be able to start when it stops at a place where starting depends on the windings that don't work? That is what the situation seems to be.

Thanks for the help.

Mike S
Link Posted: 12/23/2005 4:58:49 AM EDT
The windings wear because the bushing wear on the end of the shaft and that lets the motor lose its efficiency.

We don't have a store in San Antonio (we have one in San Marcos) so I would not be able to find someone to work on it that would be affordable.

Ask someone at the Johnstone store if they know someone who would do it without charging you an arm and a leg.

Without knowing all the specs on it the motor could be $75.00 to $???.00.

There is a place in San Antonio that is named Hamilton Electric that might have what you need if Johnstone doesn't.

I buy a bunch of motors from Hamilton in Austin but they are both owned by the same people.

Let me know if I can help any more.
Link Posted: 12/23/2005 5:24:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/23/2005 5:24:26 AM EDT by TomJefferson]
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