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Durkin Tactical Franklin Armory
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Posted: 4/22/2016 10:49:41 PM EDT
Has anyone used Hardie Backer 500 instead of drywall in a basement application? Mounting it smooth side out and finishing like drywall? How about the basement ceiling?

I am sealing the blocks with UGL drylock and insulating with 2 inch foam board on all of the exterior walls, but I want extra assurance I will not get mold.
Link Posted: 4/22/2016 11:00:23 PM EDT
Did you happen to use wood for framing?
Link Posted: 4/22/2016 11:05:44 PM EDT
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Did you happen to use wood for framing?
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I haven't done it yet. It is in the project planning phase.

I found some mold behind paneling in one room in the basement. Fixed grading outside, added pipes to downspouts, and UGL drylocked the room.

I am going to do the entire perimeter of the basement next. The glue up 2 inch foam board, seal the edges with tape. then frame a 2X4 wall in front of the dry wall. Then mount up hardieboard.
Link Posted: 4/22/2016 11:29:55 PM EDT
It's miserable enough sinking the damn Hardie screws in a shower enclosure, I can't imagine doing a basement with screws every 10 inches on the perimeter and every foot in the field.  Most of the screws have to be backed our and sunk twice, and once they get just a little strip you might as well throw it away and get another,

If I was you I'd keep looking for a better solution.
Link Posted: 4/22/2016 11:46:30 PM EDT
I went with this, tied into a subfloor thats similarly built.  Very pleased.

Link Posted: 4/23/2016 4:16:36 AM EDT
If you have so much moisture in the basement that regular drywall won't work, then I wouldn't be finishing the basement.  

If you've fixed the moisture but are still worried about it, you can use moisture resistant drywall.  Using Hardibacker type board is going to be very expensive and very time consuming.
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 9:24:39 AM EDT
Its a lot of work, but when done, you wont have to ever worry about moisture again.  Cut slab, install superseal membrane, patch concrete, finish basement with any product you want.  Im in the middle of doing it on a house now.  Not that expensive, just a lot of labor.

Eta: drylock has never worked well for me
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 9:37:06 AM EDT
Moisture and mold resistant drywall is a much better approach. Be sure that it's dried up before you do anything I would not be finishing a basement unless I was sure it was nearly 100% dry and if not I would take the necessary exterior measures that it sounds like you've started and use a closed cell spray foam insulation rather than the 2" foam board insulation. Even if that were the base layer then utiliize a mineral wool batt insulation m
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 9:09:47 PM EDT
You are on the right track with the 2" foamboard. Most basement moisture problems come from cold walls/floors. If the surface temp of the walls/floors is below the dewpoint of the air in the room=summertime. then you get condensation on the walls not water leaking through the walls. Insulating the floor or using "dri-core" is a good bet. http://buildingscience.com/documents/information-sheets/basement-insulation
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