User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:35:21 AM EDT
[#1]
try a cheater bar?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:35:25 AM EDT
[#2]
heat gun?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:35:28 AM EDT
[#3]
Heat
The expansion will break it loose. make sure you open the bleeder or disconnect the lines first. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:35:39 AM EDT
[#4]
Warm it up if you can.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:35:58 AM EDT
[#5]
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit...
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:37:09 AM EDT
[#6]
Torch on the bolt, but it may damage seals in the calipers. Calipers aren't THAT expensive though.
Try some freeze-off, and tapping with a hammer, then use a cheater pipe. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:37:17 AM EDT
[#7]
I alternate heat (propane torch) with pb blaster.
Heat it, hit it, heat it, hit it, till it breaks free. It can take awhile, but always works. Heat the bolt, not the caliper, and take it easy. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:39:16 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted: I alternate heat (propane torch) with pb blaster. Heat it, hit it, heat it, hit it, till it breaks free. It can take awhile, but always works. Heat the bolt, not the caliper, and take it easy. This combined with a cheater bar, with a pulsing action. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:40:11 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit... 
Give it some time. I've had a bolt that wouldn't budge come loose after several more hours soaking WD-40. If you end up rounding off the bolt head instead of breaking it off, IRWIN makes a decent rounded nut removal kit sold at most auto parts stores and Sears/KMart. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:40:24 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit... I just went through this on my fiancee's car. All but TWO threads were rusted out, and torquing the caliper mounting bolt to spec stripped them. Because Ford doesn't have removable caliper mounts, I had to have the whole steering knuckle replaced. No way I'm putting helicoils on her brakes. Just under $1000. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:40:34 AM EDT
[#11]
If it was torqued down that hard to begin with, I wonder if the threads on the knuckle aren't already stretched out anyways...
Quoted:
Quoted:
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit... I just went through this on my fiancee's car. All but TWO threads were rusted out, and torquing the caliper mounting bolt to spec stripped them. Because Ford doesn't have removable caliper mounts, I had to have the whole steering knuckle replaced. No way I'm putting helicoils on her brakes. Just under $1000. What's wrong with helicoils in the steering knuckle? I did it for mine a few months ago. It's holding up just fine. Cheap, effective fix. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:47:45 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
If it was torqued down that hard to begin with, I wonder if the threads on the knuckle aren't already stretched out anyways... Quoted:
Quoted:
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit... I just went through this on my fiancee's car. All but TWO threads were rusted out, and torquing the caliper mounting bolt to spec stripped them. Because Ford doesn't have removable caliper mounts, I had to have the whole steering knuckle replaced. No way I'm putting helicoils on her brakes. Just under $1000. What's wrong with helicoils in the steering knuckle? I did it for mine a few months ago. It's holding up just fine. Cheap, effective fix. No, the threads had rusted away (yankee car). They weren't over-tight coming off. To me helicoils are for non-critical stuff, as they aren't as sturdy as a tapped hole. I'd rather not have the caliper come of my fiancee's brakes. I would have drilled it out oversize and re-tapped it, but that wouldn't really work with the way the mounting bolts work. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:50:51 AM EDT
[#13]
Keep soaking.
Go easy with the torch. You want to heat the caliper, not the bolt as someone further up said. Keep an extinguisher handy, brake fluid is exceptionally flammable. If you get it out, make sure to use a new bolt when it goes back together. If you don't get it out, new calipers are usually pretty cheap and easy to replace. Don't forget this, liberally, during reassembly. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:52:19 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted: Quoted: stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit... Give it some time. I've had a bolt that wouldn't budge come loose after several more hours soaking WD-40. If you end up rounding off the bolt head instead of breaking it off, IRWIN makes a decent rounded nut removal kit sold at most auto parts stores and Sears/KMart. That's also good advice. Around here we get ready to do brake jobs by hosing the bolts down the night before. Penetrating oil penetrates... but not necessarily instantly. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 10:54:03 AM EDT
[#15]
You are attempting to turn them counterclockwise as viewed from the bolt head end, right ? No offense but sometimes folks get confused when turning a bolt that is oriented so that it's threaded end points back at them.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:00:53 AM EDT
[#16]
Quoted:
You are attempting to turn them counterclockwise as viewed from the bolt head end, right ? No offense but sometimes folks get confused when turning a bolt that is oriented so that it's threaded end points back at them. I LOL'd at the huge guy in my lab who couldn't get a hydrogen regulator off the tank. They have left hand threads... I wasn't laughing when I needed a cheater pipe to fix it, though. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:03:03 AM EDT
[#18]
HEAT THE CALIPER!!!!
what ever you heat will expand, you want the caliper to expand, not the bolt |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:07:44 AM EDT
[#19]
As above: keep a fire extinguisher handy.
If you don't have one-a bowl full of baking soda will work on a bravo (liquid) fire. just grab a handfull out of the bowl and throw it at the flames. works remarkably well. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:09:00 AM EDT
[#20]
Quoted: HEAT THE CALIPER!!!! what ever you heat will expand, you want the caliper to expand, not the bolt Aluminum expands at roughly twice the rate of steel doesn't it? Heating the bolt still conducts the heat to the aluminum. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:13:13 AM EDT
[#21]
Hand torch and a candle, heat it enough for the wax to melt into the threads and it should come out almost by hand. No need to torch the caliper, just the bolt head.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:13:55 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
Quoted:
HEAT THE CALIPER!!!! what ever you heat will expand, you want the caliper to expand, not the bolt Aluminum expands at roughly twice the rate of steel doesn't it? Heating the bolt still conducts the heat to the aluminum. Well you could heat the entire car in a bodyshop oven too, but the question is why bother? The caliper is what you want to expand. Apply the flame there. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:14:13 AM EDT
[#23]
Heat and an impact wrench.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:18:16 AM EDT
[#24]
Quoted: I alternate heat (propane torch) with pb blaster. Heat it, hit it, heat it, hit it, till it breaks free. It can take awhile, but always works. Heat the bolt, not the caliper, and take it easy. I have a MAPP torch and have been heating. Keeping the torch back from the caliper and using squirt water bottle to try to keep the seals from cooking. It still won't budge. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:21:39 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted: Quoted: stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit... Give it some time. I've had a bolt that wouldn't budge come loose after several more hours soaking WD-40. If you end up rounding off the bolt head instead of breaking it off, IRWIN makes a decent rounded nut removal kit sold at most auto parts stores and Sears/KMart. The bolt is internal allen inside the caliper. I have been putting some serious leverage on it (broke one allen wrench ouch) but no go. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:22:44 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted: Quoted: I alternate heat (propane torch) with pb blaster. Heat it, hit it, heat it, hit it, till it breaks free. It can take awhile, but always works. Heat the bolt, not the caliper, and take it easy. I have a MAPP torch and have been heating. Keeping the torch back from the caliper and using squirt water bottle to try to keep the seals from cooking. It still won't budge. You need to start hitting it then.  |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:24:43 AM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit...
Give it some time. I've had a bolt that wouldn't budge come loose after several more hours soaking WD-40. If you end up rounding off the bolt head instead of breaking it off, IRWIN makes a decent rounded nut removal kit sold at most auto parts stores and Sears/KMart. The bolt is internal allen inside the caliper. I have been putting some serious leverage on it (broke one allen wrench ouch) but no go. Go get a 3/8" drive allen bit and use your socket wrench and a pipe. You'll get way more leverage that way. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:28:04 AM EDT
[#28]
Heat plus candle wax jammed into the offending fastener will work wonders...
I've done exhaust manifold bolts that were mostly eroded away with this method and it was truely awesome 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:29:30 AM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
stand by to purchase a heli-coil kit...
Give it some time. I've had a bolt that wouldn't budge come loose after several more hours soaking WD-40. If you end up rounding off the bolt head instead of breaking it off, IRWIN makes a decent rounded nut removal kit sold at most auto parts stores and Sears/KMart. The bolt is internal allen inside the caliper. I have been putting some serious leverage on it (broke one allen wrench ouch) but no go. Wait, you're talking about a guide bolt then? The thing that holds the caliper to the bracket/frame, and not the bolts that hold the frame to the hub? If so, drain your brake fluid or clamp the soft line, pull the whole caliper and mounting assembly, and attack it in a vise with whatever is required. Get ready to buy a new caliper just in case. I'll never understand why jackasses put more than 5-10 ft-lb on those. Same with the rotor hold-down/indexing bolt on bimmers and other cars. I broke an allen head socket and a drillbit trying to get a hold down bolt out, which I was removing because three of the over-tight lug nuts had snapped off when I was removing a wheel.  One of the many reasons the only garage that touches my car is my own for just about everything, and I watch like a hawk whenever I have work done by someone else.
I have a broken off transmission crossmember bolt under the thing as well. All done by the same jackass that left 4 or 5 (I forget) of the top bolts for the tranny bell housing off after he did the clutch. I've owned the car almost 5 years now and I'm still not done fixing everything that clown did wrong. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:38:33 AM EDT
[#30]
Who needs torque specifications? I've got me a big wrench!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:39:47 AM EDT
[#31]
Kroil and a heat gun...never fails
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:41:03 AM EDT
[#32]
Quoted: try a cheater bar? This. I call them breaker bars but you need one. That or use an air wrench. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:44:07 AM EDT
[#33]
OP, have you only tried the little "L" shaped allen wrenches?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:49:12 AM EDT
[#34]
Quoted:
Quoted:
try a cheater bar? This. I call them breaker bars but you need one. That or use an air wrench. Breaker bar: 
Cheater: 
Where I come from, a "cheater" is something you slip over the end of your breaker, to get MOAR TORQUES. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 11:51:03 AM EDT
[#35]
I was expecting a
I forgot to put my buffer and buffer spring back in thread. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 1:12:14 PM EDT
[#36]
lol, seriously, you put enough torque on it and it being frozen won't matter. You'll just twist the bolt in half.
Tearing the threads out would be preferable to getting a headless bolt stuck in there, I think. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 1:23:42 PM EDT
[#37]
1/2 and 1/2 mixture of ATF and acetone, put it in a squirt bottle. try it once and you'll never use PB Blaster again.
For you job, put it back together, go drive and use the brakes really well a 6 or 8 times real close to the house, pull it in a spray the above mixture where ya need it. it should come right off. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 1:42:39 PM EDT
[#38]
Quoted: Hand torch and a candle, heat it enough for the wax to melt into the threads and it should come out almost by hand. No need to torch the caliper, just the bolt head. I have been reading this one a lot lately. Gonna try it on the next stuck bolt I encounter. PB Blaster works much better then WD40 FWIW. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 1:48:28 PM EDT
[#39]
Kroil
it makes PBlaster look like peanut butter seriously |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 1:49:13 PM EDT
[#40]
Quoted:
lol, seriously, you put enough torque on it and it being frozen won't matter. You'll just twist the bolt in half. Tearing the threads out would be preferable to getting a headless bolt stuck in there, I think. If it wasn't rusted in there (and you just broke the head off because it was torqued down too tight) sometimes you can take the pointy edge of a flat blade screwdriver or a pick and dig into a spot on the broken end of the bolt and sort of tap it around with a hammer to get it started out enough to where you can grab onto it with vice grips. Because once you break the head off, it suddenly releases the torque on the bolt and it's in there loose, so then you should be able to tap it around to get it out if it's not rusted in there. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 1:52:34 PM EDT
[#41]
If the aluminum corroded and the bolt rusted and they are joined together, and they are heated and you use a breaker bar...
You will pull the threads right out of the thing. No matter though. Odds are the threads were ruined anyway. I would vote for letting the PB blaster soak for a while and try again. Any chance there is loctite on the threads? Maybe it needs a little heat to soften that up. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:01:53 PM EDT
[#42]
Quoted: Kroil it makes PBlaster look like peanut butter seriously I hope so. I have a can of Kroil. The bolt is horizontal. Any way to try and keep the Kroil in contact with the bolt or will it just soak in? |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:04:37 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted: If the aluminum corroded and the bolt rusted and they are joined together, and they are heated and you use a breaker bar... You will pull the threads right out of the thing. No matter though. Odds are the threads were ruined anyway. I would vote for letting the PB blaster soak for a while and try again. Any chance there is loctite on the threads? Maybe it needs a little heat to soften that up. No loctite. I was the one that replaced the pads and bled the system 6 years ago. The bolt itself doesn't require any torque as there is/was a cap screw that follows the bolt in the same channel. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:08:41 PM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Kroil it makes PBlaster look like peanut butter seriously I hope so. I have a can of Kroil. The bolt is horizontal. Any way to try and keep the Kroil in contact with the bolt or will it just soak in? The Kroil will seep into anything. Squirt it in the general direction, on both sides if you can access them. I use a needle oiler. Give it some time to soak. I've used Kroil to remove "stuck" FSB pins in one good hammer stroke. PBlaster is garbage compared to Kroil. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:12:17 PM EDT
[#45]
Another vote for Kroil. Also try using a drift and hammer on the bolt head to "shock" it. Give the Kroil time to work... |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:13:05 PM EDT
[#46]
Gently heat the aluminum housing with a propane torch. If you can clamp pliers or vise grips to the bolts, do it, every bit of heat sink will help.
The aluminum expands almost 50% greater than steel at the same temp, so if you can keep the steel cool, that's even better. Heat a while, then tap the end of the bolt - I bet they'll come right out unless you have something monumentally hosed up. You're not trying for high temps here, 200F to 250F will be way sufficient and the bolts may come loose at a lower temp. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:13:14 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:
Kroil and a heat gun...never fails And let it soak overnight. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:16:31 PM EDT
[#48]
Quoted: Quoted: Kroil and a heat gun...never fails And let it soak overnight. I've been hunting for a source of Kroil here for two weeks that is not a gun shop. The clerks at KBC Tools didn't know what it is and the company doesn't sell it any more. |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:29:43 PM EDT
[#49]
Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Kroil and a heat gun...never fails And let it soak overnight. I've been hunting for a source of Kroil here for two weeks that is not a gun shop. The clerks at KBC Tools didn't know what it is and the company doesn't sell it any more. http://www.kanolabs.com/ |
|
|
|
Posted: 12/15/2010 2:37:38 PM EDT
[#50]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Kroil and a heat gun...never fails And let it soak overnight. I've been hunting for a source of Kroil here for two weeks that is not a gun shop. The clerks at KBC Tools didn't know what it is and the company doesn't sell it any more. I've always got it from Brownells. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
