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1/25/2018 7:38:29 AM
Posted: 2/28/2006 11:13:15 AM EST
Gunlocker–the small version, around $200 from a local Temecula, CA outlet. I also purchased a Riflelocker for upstairs, MUCH larger.

Situation: responsible firearms owner, I have had a large conventional safe for years. Its current location does not permit quick access from either the downstairs family room or the master bedroom upstairs. Access is complicated by my now 4 year old daughter. Our house is generally the “comfortable” house for her friends and their families to hang out. Several 4-5 year old kids playing and unsecured firearms equals a situation I am not prepared to host.

Solution: After research and inquiry, including here, I settled on the Riflelocker long gun safe for the upstairs bedroom. While I was getting that one, I picked up the Gunlocker as well, for easy access while I’m watching TV.

Yesterday evening, I installed the Gunlocker.

Pretty good directions, you simply find a suitable location in an interior wall with 16" on center studs. Actual dimensions of the cutout are 14.25x17.25, iirc.

Sawzalled the hole out and bolted it to the studs. After that, reprogram the code(s), configure the thingamabob to fit whatever you will be storing in there, and close it up.

Ease of install– Easy for someone who has done any drywall work of any kind. Bottom right bolt was a tough one, big hands, I guess, but only a slight delay. Total install is said to be an hour, I did it in about 40 minutes.

Appearance- Excellent, looks like a typical hotel safe. I put it in an unobtrusive location, but even if you look directly at it, it’s an attractive unit. (UNIT!!) The frame of the unit extends about 2 inches past the hole so it looks like a pro installed it even if your drywall skillz are not so mad.

Quality- excellent. Looks pretty tough, I’m only looking to keep kids out of it. Certainly looks up to that task and more. I guess you could get it out of the wall with a sawzall and about 10 minutes, but the cops will be on scene by then.

There’s a keypad powered by a rechargeable battery that lights up the keyboard when you touch it. Enter the correct code, and the door, which is hinged on the bottom, pops open to about a 45 degree angle and presents your weapon of choice in a secure but folding apparatus that presents a natural draw. When the door first opens, there’s enough light from the back of the keypad that you can see the interior of the safe. There’s a tamper feature that locks up the keypad if you flub the code 3 times, a “tamper” light stays lit and lets you know someone has been trying to get in.

There is an override key, and a port in the front to charge the battery while the unit is locked, which I understand is a new feature. The interior is lined with a felt like fabric. There is plenty of room inside for a Sig 226 in the doohicky and a Ruger Snub SP101 in a velcro holster on the back of the unit. Exterior is a whitish enamel or powdercoat, not shiny but not matte.

I tested it several times, it has been flawless for about 50 cycles. Wife is checked out and approves of the appearance and function of the unit.

I highly recommend this product. The Rifle sized one is quite a bit bigger and I will report after the Saturday or Sunday install.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:27:55 AM EST
Tag for further updates.

I've been looking at the Riflelocker for my bedroom.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:28:10 AM EST
Nice report. I'm thinking of adding one outside the bedroom.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:28:48 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:31:27 AM EST
Can you hang a photo or other artwork over it?
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:32:36 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:33:27 AM EST
I've had my eye on one of these for a while now that my big safe is downstairs
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:35:52 AM EST

Originally Posted By GonzoAR15-1:
Can you hang a photo or other artwork over it?

Yes. The Gunlocker only protrudes about 1/8" from the wall surface. It measures probably 17 across by 20 high. A piano hinge along one edge would conceal the entire thing and you wouldn't have to hang and unhang the picture every time.

Sorry, no digicam, no digipics.

The riflelocker, however, protrudes 3 inces from the wall to give depth, and another 1.5 inches for the dial itself, plus it's really tall. It is designed to go in a closet for concealment.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:41:39 AM EST
Link to company you bought it from?
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:44:36 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:47:59 AM EST
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 11:47:59 AM EST

Originally Posted By BlammO:

Yep, and without your address.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 3:48:16 PM EST

Originally Posted By DesertRat66:
Link to company you bought it from?

Link Posted: 2/28/2006 3:56:31 PM EST
Great plan. Main stash in a safe. Ready to go stored in a safe, yet easy access to you manner.

Link Posted: 2/28/2006 3:57:15 PM EST
[Last Edit: 2/28/2006 3:59:01 PM EST by Yossarian]
I had one from the same place before I made my escape. I am guessing it is from the Safe Outlet???

Yes, it is a very good product, pretty easy to install and very workable...never had a problem.

The folks who run the place are real nice to. Good family business.


Ahhh...Re-read your post...I had the Rifle Locker....you will like that one as much as the pistol safe.
Link Posted: 2/28/2006 4:03:53 PM EST
tag for pics
Link Posted: 3/1/2006 4:46:48 AM EST
Here is a little cheaper price with free shipping.

Rifle locker

I don't know anything about them because I haven't purchased mine yet.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 11:25:11 AM EST
BFU. Bump for update.

Sunday PM I put in the bigger version, the riflelocker.

Nominally, it’s just a larger scale cutout of the gunlocker I slapped in so easily after work.

However, several factors complicated my particular installation. First, it’s designed to go in a closet wall, a bedroom closet wall. So the difference between my wife’s tolerance for drywall dust in a downstairs hallway with hardwood floor was found to dramatically differ from her dust tolerance in our bedroom. Note to others, get the clothes AWAY from the cutting area, do this when you have an hour to work and an hour to clean up.

Second, I lined our closets with cedar plank before we moved in. I just finish nailed it to the drywall, which didn’t hold well enough when I used the reciprocating saw, so I splintered and split a few planks. Then I got smart, nailed all the edges to the studs I was using to secure the safe, and used a worm drive saw to neatly trim the opening.

Third, it’s 110 lbs, and it will take a minimum of two complete lifts into position, one to mark the lag holes for securing it and one to actually fix the safe to the opening. Given my experimentation with cedar planking, it was not as easy to cut along the studs as if you’re just cutting drywall. Call it 4 lifts before it would fit, then a last lift to secure it. That was a tough exercise by myself, but by the time I realized I was having trouble, the room was toast and I needed to get it done. In a conventional closet, there probably won’t be that much room for another guy to lift, but if I did it again, I’d have another guy available.

After fixing it in place, I cleaned up the room, and then played with it. There is a TON of room in there, it is about 59" top to bottom. Inside is felt lined like the smaller version. It comes with a metal shelf that can be placed anywhere and a foam rubber “top rack” to secure the barrel end of whatever you put in there. It’s optimistically cut out to hold about 8 long guns, 3-4 is much more like it, and only non PG longarms in anything like that quantity. The rubber rack has little velcro spots to “secure” it to the back of the unit, pretty flimsy, but adequate. Mine currently houses my M1S90, standard stock, and a bushy carbine. One pistol on the door holster, one bushy mag, 5 glock mags, 5 boxes of buck on the shelf. Next to the longarms is a bando of mixed shotty ammo. And there’s a Seecamp in there, too. If I had/made another shelf, I could easily put a lot more in there.

The guy who loaded it for me tossed in a couple velcro holsters that can be put on any lined surface of any of the units, I put one on the back wall of the small one and one on the door of the big one. They are minimal holsters, elastic that covers about 2.5 inches of the trigger guard area. They hold the weapons securely.

Setting the code was per instructions.

Locking mechanism is a single pin about 1/4 inch on the three non hinged door sides. They move about ½ inch to secure the door. To operate, enter the code, the pad lights up when you touch it, and spin the doorknob type deal and the pins retract and stay retracted until you turn the knob the other way. One thing, the solenoid only clears the knob to turn for about 3-5 seconds, miss the time frame and you need to reenter the code. The door is pretty heavy, but stays open, or in pretty much any position you leave it. As with the smaller unit, there is a barrel key that will override the lock.

And as with the smaller one, I did this to secure them from kids, my kid in particular, so any theft prevention is a bonus, as previously, they were just sitting on the top shelf of the closet. Certainly they are more secure than a sheet metal cabinet.

I recommend these products highly, my only complaint is that the velcro on the rubber top rack could be more secure, or even if the molded a bit of metal in the rack, it would have more substance.

Link Posted: 3/10/2006 11:40:03 AM EST
Is there any way to hardwire the electronics? I've known about these lockers for awhile, but am not crazy about having to run an extension cord in order to recharge the battery (the place I'd want to install it is nowhere near an outlet).
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 11:47:03 AM EST

Originally Posted By AshNH:
Is there any way to hardwire the electronics? I've known about these lockers for awhile, but am not crazy about having to run an extension cord in order to recharge the battery (the place I'd want to install it is nowhere near an outlet).

Excellent question, One that I didn't ask.

The small unit now has an adapter hole in the faceplate. You can use an extension cord to locate the adapter close enough. You can charge that one with the unit locked.

The bigger one, however, requires the keypad to be unplugged so that the adapter can plug into that location. It would be pretty simple to add a pigtail so you could leave the keypad hooked up, and yo could drill a hole to charge it with the unit locked, just like the small one. As it comes, they don't specifically reference it, but it appears the door must be open to charge it, 8 hours max.

I don't know enough about electric to tell if it can be placed on the house circuit, but I'm guessing
someone here will know/has already done it.

FWIW, the batts supposedly last 8 months to one year between charges.
Link Posted: 3/10/2006 3:49:45 PM EST
I have a Riflelocker. Word of advice from someone who's been there: stash the keycode off the key somewhere safe. If you lose the key and the internal battery dies, they can send you a new key for a newer Riflelocker. They hadn't started doing that back when I bought mine.
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