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Posted: 3/21/2006 12:54:50 PM EDT
I am doing my "research" for my first attempt at a "spray on" finish. I am going to darken up my VERY used, banged up, scratched, worn daily carry gun - a Kimber Stainless Ultra Carry.

I would greatly appreciate your opinions! I am very curious how they hold up to plain old holster wear? I am guessing that either one would hold up pretty well.

I am going for a flat black color, and I am wondering if the metal that contacts the holster will get "shinny" after a short while?

Thanks in advance! (And please wish me luck )

Scott

*Title edited to add Duracoat, I forgot to put that one on the list.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 12:55:53 PM EDT
[#1]
dont rule out Duracoat
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:00:39 PM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
dont rule out Duracoat



Thank you...I forgot to add that one to my list

Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:03:37 PM EDT
[#3]
And Cerakote.. its a 7h hardness...

Link to nic data sheet

NIC

Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:12:02 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
And Cerakote.. its a 7h hardness...

Link to nic data sheet

NIC




Ooops......I am not going to bother changing the thread title again I have not heard of Cerakote. This may be the first time "Buy both!" answer will not work for me.  

It worked ok for my Aimpoint vs EOTech decision (that I could not make my mind up on).....I ended up with both and I am perfectly happy
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:19:13 PM EDT
[#5]
I used Duracote for a year, then I did some gun work for the owner of NIC and he got me hooked on the stuff. IT IS HARD!! A demo I do at the shop, I have a test piece coated with it. I take the edge of my knife and try to scrape the stuff off.. All it does is burnish the area.
There is both an air cured version and a bake on version. Both are tough..
Is a bit more expensive but it IMHO does a better job.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:25:20 PM EDT
[#6]
I have used Moly Resin from Norrell a couple times myself.

Its one of the best "hobby" level applicaiton coatings I've seen.   Trick is with the surface preparation, of course.   It really likes an abrasive blasted surface.   I soak the parts in a acetone wash before preheating for the coating, and use a really low cost airbrush with flow control on the lowest setting to mist the stuff on.   Two coats and some baking later, and its damn hard to scratch or mar.  

Link Posted: 3/21/2006 1:54:09 PM EDT
[#7]
I've always wondered why gun magazine hardly EVER do a study of various coatings.

You think they'd maybe do an article every now and then instead of another lame old 9mm vs .45 comparison.

Ed
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 2:15:15 PM EDT
[#8]
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 2:45:36 PM EDT
[#9]
I've used Norrell's on 2 weapons.I didn't do anything to the surface of my 2 AR's besides using a good degreaser-acetone.No bead/sand blasting at all.I've had it on my AR's for 4-5 years and it's hard as a rock.Can't speak for Duracoat but Norrell's works fine for me and I'll stay with it.
Link Posted: 3/21/2006 3:55:40 PM EDT
[#10]
My experience is that Duracoat is more durable than KG guncoat.  

I applied the Duracoat myself and let it air dry.  The KG guncoat was professionally applied and baked.  

These two finishes were applied to the same gun, Duracoat first, which was used for about 6 months.  Then the KG, after the gun was blasted, parked, and KG then applied.  The KG finish is showing wear much sooner than the Duracoat did, and with less use.  

I also have Duracoat on a PSS which I applied myself as well.  After about 1 year of use, it shows almost no wear.  I use it fairly often, and am not real careful about babying the gun.  It's been in the rain and snow, and shows no signs of rust or corrosion.  The KG which I applied to the bolt (in black) has already worn off of the friction surfaces.  The Duracoat that got inside of the receiver where the bolt rides has not worn off at all.  

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