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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 9/3/2005 5:49:36 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 5:53:06 AM EDT by Gregory_A]
Hopefully someone can help me with this problem.

I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer ZR2 that has bad front brakes.Last weekend after banging on the caliper bolts I was finally able to get one side off.I thought I was set because the rotors should just pull right off.

I was very wrong.I guess the rotors are somehow rusted on,and banging it didn't even break it loose. When I was banging on the backside of the rotor,they never even moved.I am sure that there is nothing else holding these rotors on,so process of elimi9nation tells me they are rusted on.

Is there some sort of trick for freeing these (I'm guessing) rusted rotors ?

Any tips or tricks anyone can give me ?

I contemplated dropping it off at a shop,but they wanted $150.00 for the labor.I have my own rotors/pads.

Thanks.
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 5:55:06 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 5:55:39 AM EDT by Rocky9_5]
if they never have been replaced look at the lug studs. The factory puts a star type lock on 2 of the lug studs. If they are gone, hit harder. Occasionally I would have to use a sledge to remove the rotors.
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 5:58:21 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 6:20:01 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 6:24:43 AM EDT by Gregory_A]

Originally Posted By Rocky9_5:
if they never have been replaced look at the lug studs. The factory puts a star type lock on 2 of the lug studs. If they are gone, hit harder. Occasionally I would have to use a sledge to remove the rotors.



Ya,I didn't mention it but I did take off those 2 washer looking things on the bolts/studs.They are basically destroyed now,is it important to get new ones ?


Originally Posted By Striker:
Soak the holes around the wheel studs and hub with penetrating fluid and let it soak over night. In the morning take a decent size hammer and wack the rotor between the wheel studs all the way around. I use an old retaining pin out of a differential as a punch so I can get close to the studs without hitting them.
If that doesn't work..then try hitting it from behind. Hit, spin the rotor a bit..hit, spin the rotor.
Once you get it off take some emery cloth, sand paper and clean the hub really good where it goes through the rotor.



Thanks Striker.I am guessing any penetrator fluid will work,or is there a specific brand name I should look for ? Would soaking the holes then driving around help any ? Or just spray and let sit ?

Again thanks for the help.This is my only vehicle so I can't screw anything up.I wish I can just leave the thing up on jacks,but when I run into a problem I have to put it back together to make sure I can go to work the next day..lol
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 7:09:21 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 8:20:47 AM EDT
I went to Auto Zone and got some stuff called "PB",the directions said to let set a few minutes.I think I have to let it set a lot longer than that because I tried to spin/bang/spin/bang the rotor loose with a rubber mallet and it didn't even budge.I am going to let it sit for another couple of hours and see what happens....

Thanks again Striker.

The thought of paying someone $150.00 to do this seemingly simple job motivates me,that and not having $150.00 to begin with..lol
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 9:28:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 9:30:27 AM EDT by Striker]
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 9:55:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 9:56:14 AM EDT by Gregory_A]

take a small pry bar or big screw driver and insert it between the inside brake pad and rotor and gently pry the pad away from the rotor. What you're doing is forcing the piston back into the caliper. Pry it back until the metal plate on the pad is touching the caliper.
Removing the cap on your master cylinder makes it easier as it gives the air somewhere to go when the brake fluid is forced back into the master cylinder



I will have to remember this,if I even get that far..I am positive there is nothing else holding the rotor into place because I looked at my new one.But this thing is not friggin budging.I have sprayed a lot of junk into every place that looks like it makes contact,but to no success.

I don't have any leverage to try and hit the rotor loose from the backside with drill punch and a hammer,so I am just rotating and banging.All I need is it to break free just a little to give me some motivation to proceed,but so far nothing.

Probably just have to spray more and let it sit overnite,the only other option I can think of right now.
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 10:33:48 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 1:37:16 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 1:38:49 PM EDT by Gregory_A]
After much banging,grabbing ahold of the rotor with a crescent wrench then banging the wrench with a mallet,it finally came loose!

The really ironic thing is after I finished the first one,the second one took me 15 minutes total to get done!I knew nothing was gonna break and to be rough with the rotor and it worked.

Thanks again Striker!

Now to get my truck inspected,it expired in June..LOL

Delete thread at will
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 2:18:05 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 2:34:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 9/3/2005 2:36:39 PM EDT by Gregory_A]

Originally Posted By Striker:
You're welcome.
Did ya clean up the hub with emery cloth where the rotor meets it?

for the next time!



Not with Emery cloth,but I did clean it.For some strange reason,it wasn't that bad.I was expecting to see built up gunk but it was pretty clean.The rotor on the other hand was trashed with rust and flaking all over the place.

On a related note...I am getting really uneven pad wear.The inside pad of the passenger side was almost non-existent,while the outside pad had 50% wear left.The driver side pads were worn pretty evenly.Pretty amazing considering these were stock pads and I have 90K miles.Pads last a long time if ya know how to drive

Any suggestions besides replacing the whole friggin thing ?
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 5:49:11 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/3/2005 10:43:09 PM EDT
Man this is weird, ZR2's are pretty rare in my corner of the country, well a bit uncommon all over and in the past 20min I've now ran into 3 other ZR2 Blazer owners on ARFCOM!
www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=1&f=5&t=386240&page=2
I just did a brake service on my 2000 ZR2 Blazer last week and encountered the same problem. A wire brush around the bolts and some solid whacks with a ball peen hammer between the bolts did the trick for me. Glad you finally got it off. There is something satisfying in doing it yourself huh!
Are you on any of the ZR2 forums?
Link Posted: 9/4/2005 5:45:59 AM EDT

Originally Posted By Striker:

Originally Posted By Gregory_A:

On a related note...I am getting really uneven pad wear.The inside pad of the passenger side was almost non-existent,while the outside pad had 50% wear left.The driver side pads were worn pretty evenly.Pretty amazing considering these were stock pads and I have 90K miles.Pads last a long time if ya know how to drive

Any suggestions besides replacing the whole friggin thing ?


Sounds like the caliper on the passengers side isn't sliding like it's suppose to. The caliper slides on the bolts that fasten it to the spindle when you apply the brakes which pulls the outside pad against the rotor. I should have suggested to you to make sure the bolts are nice and clean and smooth before you put it back together.



Sounds easy enough to do since I don't have to remove the caliper.I did pull those bolts out to take apart the caliper,and there was a little grease on the bolt.Should I wipe the bolt down a lob a bunch of grease in there ? If so,what kind of grease should I use ?

Most definately satisfying Detslider! Any links for the ZR2 forums ?
Link Posted: 9/4/2005 6:27:51 AM EDT
Link Posted: 9/4/2005 9:54:35 AM EDT
ZR2.com is like the "Mothership" tons of info there.
Smaller ones include www.zr2usa.com/, www.zr2nw.com, and www.s10forum.com has a small ZR2 section.
I can be found on a few of them under the same name.
I'll let you know if I'm in your neighborhood someday, we can go wheel and burn some ammo at the same time!
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