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Posted: 12/13/2013 7:57:18 AM EST
So I am looking at upgrading to a larger pickup and the F250-350 in my price range all have the 6.0L diesel. I have heard a lot, good and bad, about these engines and was told as long as they have the head studs and gasket replaced along with the EGR delete, they are great motors. Anyone that owns one or that has been around one, please give me your input on your experience with them.

Thanks for any input.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:03:55 AM EST
Silent type eh?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:04:02 AM EST
I owned one. Worst decision of my life.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:06:32 AM EST
Wait it was your mechanic who told you the good things right?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:08:56 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By devildog12210:
I owned one. Worst decision of my life.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
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Will you explain this please?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:09:27 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Elijah1:
Wait it was your mechanic who told you the good things right?
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Nope just what I have read on forums, which is always true. lol
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:11:38 AM EST
Had to change the head bolts on mine to ARP after I Banks kitted the thing and blew a head gasket. Still need to do the EGR delete but I haven't had any issues with mine other than that.

It's an 04 with only 52k miles on it though.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:12:13 AM EST
From what I have heard and read, once you do the EGR delete, upgrade the oil cooler and do head studs the 6.0 becomes a very reliable engine.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:17:48 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/13/2013 8:18:41 AM EST by ARtong22]
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:22:09 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.
View Quote


What?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:22:10 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/13/2013 8:23:18 AM EST by louisianarebel]
Cost a few extra thousand to make them a good motor. No resale value... Also hard to find one that hasn't been ragged with a chip.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:23:32 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.
View Quote


Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:25:28 AM EST
Never had a problem with my manual 6 speed in my F-550 4x4 but I also have one of these installed;

http://www.gearvendors.com/index.html

Haters are going to hate.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:30:13 AM EST
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Originally Posted By krustyone:


What?
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Originally Posted By krustyone:
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.


What?
He's on a roll, let him keep going.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:30:52 AM EST
Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:31:54 AM EST
I bought an 03 f350 with 6.0 back in 2005. Had 51k on it when I bought it. I did the EGR delete, upgraded the oil cooler and replaced the ICP sensor at around 80k miles. Put a superchip tune on it and ran it on the medium setting most of the time. It has 143k on it now. I never got around to the head studs but I never had any issues with it.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:32:02 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Dana1972:
Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable.
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Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:34:24 AM EST
'07's are the best.

'06's are decent.

'05's are okay

'04's still have some issues.

'03's suck.


To make all of them run awesome:

EGR delete
Oil cooler upgrade
Head studs
Good tuner
Exhaust.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:34:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/13/2013 8:34:56 AM EST by DriftPunch]
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Originally Posted By millfire517:
Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe
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Originally Posted By millfire517:
Originally Posted By Dana1972:
Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable.
Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe

If you have a separate DD and are not using it commercially, it really doesn't matter. I'd love to have a V10 F250 once my current beater truck dies.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:37:06 AM EST
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Originally Posted By millfire517:
Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe
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Originally Posted By millfire517:
Originally Posted By Dana1972:
Why not buy a F250 with the V10 gasser? They are very capable.
Because they suck gas like a crachead hitting the crack pipe



I'm sure they do. I bought the Chevrolet 2500 HD with the 6.0L and added a cold air intake and cat back which slightly improved the mileage.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:38:32 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:
'07's are the best.

'06's are decent.

'05's are okay

'04's still have some issues.

'03's suck.


To make all of them run awesome:

EGR delete
Oil cooler upgrade
Head studs
Good tuner
Exhaust.
View Quote



What is the total cost of those mods? Assuming one couldn't do it themselves?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:39:39 AM EST
Great motor once all the upgrades and or upkeep maintenance is done. Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. I have 155k miles on mine and I take care of it. I have heard of horror stories, but that's with all diesel trucks.

If the day comes where I am going to buy a new truck, I would rather buy a new Cab and drop it on my Frame.

Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:41:19 AM EST
They are good as long as you keep them maintained. Go to powerstroke.org They have some great info on them.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:43:33 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ehaban:
Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance.


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WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise!

How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:43:43 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Dana1972:



What is the total cost of those mods? Assuming one couldn't do it themselves?
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Originally Posted By Dana1972:
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08:
'07's are the best.

'06's are decent.

'05's are okay

'04's still have some issues.

'03's suck.


To make all of them run awesome:

EGR delete
Oil cooler upgrade
Head studs
Good tuner
Exhaust.



What is the total cost of those mods? Assuming one couldn't do it themselves?


Under 5k depending on your choice of parts.

As previously stated, headstuds are only needed if you plan on running it at high horse power. That shaves off probably 2k of the costs. The oil cooler update is about $900+ install. Tuner & EGR delete is about $700 + install. Exhaust can be as little as $400 for turbo back, or $3k if you want a jet black, chromed one.

Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:44:56 AM EST
Originally Posted By JH_Oregon:
So I am looking at upgrading to a larger pickup and the F250-350 in my price range all have the 6.0L diesel. I have heard a lot, good and bad, about these engines and was told as long as they have the head studs and gasket replaced along with the EGR delete, they are great motors. Anyone that owns one or that has been around one, please give me your input on your experience with them.

Thanks for any input.
View Quote


Think about that for a sec...

Does it sound confidence inspiring ?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:45:43 AM EST
Ok as someone who works on them all the time they are good engines but go to bulletproofdiesel.com and look. The egr delete is a joke it just hides the problem. For about 5k and some basic skills you can do it. I have installed several of them on customers vehicles. And for what it's worth I have never seen or needed to stud one never seen one blow head gaskets due to over boosting. JMO
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:50:57 AM EST
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Originally Posted By ARtong22:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line...
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Why do you need to shorten the drive line?
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:51:36 AM EST
I have a 03 6.0 with 210,000 miles, heres a quick summary:
Oil change every 5000 miles with mobil 1 synthetic and Ford filter. RevX helps a lot if you have bad injectors.
Fuel filter every 10000 miles with Ford filter. Do not use aftermarket filters, Ford has a patent on the design
Add a coolant filter and switch to Cat ELC coolant. Most 6.0 problems can trace a root cause back to coolant issues.
Only after the coolant system is taken care of, replace the oil cooler and delete the EGR.
Head studs only if you need them, plenty of stock trucks are still out there on the factory bolts.
Upgrade the fuel pressure regulator to the blue spring, Ford has a kit for this.

Overall mine has been great, but you can not let the maintenance go like a gas engine. Skipped oil and fuel filter changes will cost you thousands in replacement injectors.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:54:00 AM EST
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Originally Posted By JH_Oregon:


Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems.
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Originally Posted By JH_Oregon:
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.


Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems.


Correct. The trans the 6.0 has is GTG.

I have an '04 6.0 with 194K on it. Still on all eight original injectors, original head bolts and original turbo. Runs fine. I deleted the EGR cooler years ago and replaced the HPOP this year. Having the mechanical ability to do these things yourself can save tons of cash. A lot of people had problems with them, and many, many times that could be traced to improper maintenance or dipshit owners that put a tuner on them and then blamed the motor for their problems. I have had it since new, stuck to maintenance schedules like clockwork, avoided aftermarket bullshit, and been rewarded with a reliable truck. YMMV

Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:55:11 AM EST
Thanks for the comments so far, I will check out those other forums. I understand my comment of "making them reliable after doing work on them" is kinda dumb, but I like the looks of the truck and will not go gas as this is my DD. I already get 13 mpg on my f-150 with the 5.4 so I am guessing I can't do much worse than that unless it's the V-10.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:58:46 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sumo6:


Correct. The trans the 6.0 has is GTG.

I have an '04 6.0 with 194K on it. Still on all eight original injectors, original head bolts and original turbo. Runs fine. I deleted the EGR cooler years ago and replaced the HPOP this year. Having the mechanical ability to do these things yourself can save tons of cash. A lot of people had problems with them, and many, many times that could be traced to improper maintenance or dipshit owners that put a tuner on them and then blamed the motor for their problems. I have had it since new, stuck to maintenance schedules like clockwork, avoided aftermarket bullshit, and been rewarded with a reliable truck. YMMV

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Originally Posted By Sumo6:
Originally Posted By JH_Oregon:
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.


Yes, I would do most of it myself, or buy one that has already had everything done to it. Now I heard that the 6.0 trannys are good, but the 7.3 trannys had problems.


Correct. The trans the 6.0 has is GTG.

I have an '04 6.0 with 194K on it. Still on all eight original injectors, original head bolts and original turbo. Runs fine. I deleted the EGR cooler years ago and replaced the HPOP this year. Having the mechanical ability to do these things yourself can save tons of cash. A lot of people had problems with them, and many, many times that could be traced to improper maintenance or dipshit owners that put a tuner on them and then blamed the motor for their problems. I have had it since new, stuck to maintenance schedules like clockwork, avoided aftermarket bullshit, and been rewarded with a reliable truck. YMMV



That right there is where I am going with this. If it is, or was, properly maintained and not had a bunch of b/s aftermarket stuff on it, would it be a good motor. I wouldn't do anything other than exhaust, intake, and maybe a water separator for the fuel.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:59:03 AM EST
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Originally Posted By Ehaban:
Great motor once all the upgrades and or upkeep maintenance is done. Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. I have 155k miles on mine and I take care of it. I have heard of horror stories, but that's with all diesel trucks.

If the day comes where I am going to buy a new truck, I would rather buy a new Cab and drop it on my Frame.

View Quote
Really? My last diesel I changed the oil air filter and fuel filter 3 times a year my self and barely broke 150.00 each time I serviced it. Brakes if needed are only roughly 45.00 if you do it yourself. Just trying to figure out "maintenance" that would cost 2-4grand. granted if the Injector pump or turbo or trans goes it can be costly, but most of the time those things if replaced the first time will last 100k plus miles before ever needing looked at again.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:59:16 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By DriftPunch:

WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise!

How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins?
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Originally Posted By DriftPunch:
Originally Posted By Ehaban:
Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance.



WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise!

How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins?

It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser, but if you're spending $2k a year on engine maintenance, you're driving 100k a year or the shop is fucking the hell out of you.


Diesel owner since 1995 average 20k miles a year, on Chevy 6.5s, a Cummins, a power stroke, and 2 duramax.


Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:05:54 AM EST
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Originally Posted By BuckHammer:

Why do you need to shorten the drive line?
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Originally Posted By BuckHammer:
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line...

Why do you need to shorten the drive line?

Because he doesnt know what he is talking about.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:08:06 AM EST
Save a couple thousand on initial price, pay a couple thousand later fixing it.

Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:11:26 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
you doing all that stuff yourself? Those small things they sound like a shop will charge you an arm and leg because its diesel products. if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line, you'll need to re gear the tranny the 6.0s came with shit trannys. and if your using anything over 35's you'll feel it all in the 6.0 if your serious about getting a diesel and the older models. look into a 7.3 the 6.0s are just to much maintience to keep up with and you don't get the power you want. i drove a 7.3 compared to my buddies 6.0 same year it was the best decision i ever made.
View Quote


^LOL WOW. This guy knows whats up.

I've got 140k miles on my 6.0. Love the truck. Find one that's been well taken care of with documented maintenance. An OASIS report can show you what kind of issues it had under warranty and more times than not, dictate which ones are more of a Lemon.

Maintenance is VERY important on the 6.0s, Like others have stated, once the common issues are taken care of, they are great engines. Also, $2-4000 per year on maintenance is a bit out there. Oil change every 5k miles, fuel filters every 10k and your good to go. If you buy one, be sure to buy a monitor and/or gauges to keep an eye on all the engine vitals. Oil temp, Coolant temp, and EGT at minimum. FICM voltage is also important to keep an eye on.


Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:15:33 AM EST
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Originally Posted By louisianarebel:

Because he doesnt know what he is talking about.
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Originally Posted By louisianarebel:
Originally Posted By BuckHammer:
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line...

Why do you need to shorten the drive line?

Because he doesnt know what he is talking about.

Clearly, but I want to know what he was thinking when he said that.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:16:05 AM EST
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By millfire517:
Really? My last diesel I changed the oil air filter and fuel filter 3 times a year my self and barely broke 150.00 each time I serviced it. Brakes if needed are only roughly 45.00 if you do it yourself. Just trying to figure out "maintenance" that would cost 2-4grand.
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Originally Posted By millfire517:
Originally Posted By Ehaban:
Great motor once all the upgrades and or upkeep maintenance is done. Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance. I have 155k miles on mine and I take care of it. I have heard of horror stories, but that's with all diesel trucks.

If the day comes where I am going to buy a new truck, I would rather buy a new Cab and drop it on my Frame.

Really? My last diesel I changed the oil air filter and fuel filter 3 times a year my self and barely broke 150.00 each time I serviced it. Brakes if needed are only roughly 45.00 if you do it yourself. Just trying to figure out "maintenance" that would cost 2-4grand.


I agree. I've got a '05 F250 6.0 powerstroke diesel 4 x 4, everything still stock, and I do most of the routine maintenance and it only costs me a few hundred per year. Oil/filter change every 5,000 miles, new fuel filters every 15,000 miles, air filter every ~80k miles. I didn't do the EGR delete, but back when I first bought the truck (new) I did have some EGR & cooler related problems that had it dead on the side of the road a few times. Now I pull the EGR every 5,000 miles when I change my oil, clean it, and pop it back in. Never had an issue since I started doing that. Anyway, my luck with my truck could be the low mileage I put on it since I work from home. It's going on on 8 years now and only has 110k miles.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:18:47 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/13/2013 9:22:43 AM EST by godzillamax]
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Originally Posted By Justin-Kase:

It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser,
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Originally Posted By Justin-Kase:
Originally Posted By DriftPunch:
Originally Posted By Ehaban:
Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance.



WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise!

How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins?

It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser,

I'm sure this varies somewhat by truck, but my '05 F250 diesel takes 15 quarts. It costs me a lot more to do the oil change on my truck than my wife's car because I'm using twice as much oil. I use Rotella T and Ford filters on my truck, but haven't made the switch to synthetic yet (not convinced it is worth the added cost).
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:21:31 AM EST
[Last Edit: 12/13/2013 9:22:02 AM EST by louisianarebel]
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Originally Posted By BuckHammer:

Clearly, but I want to know what he was thinking when he said that.
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Originally Posted By BuckHammer:
Originally Posted By louisianarebel:
Originally Posted By BuckHammer:
Originally Posted By ARtong22:
...if its lifted you need a new and shorter drive line...

Why do you need to shorten the drive line?

Because he doesnt know what he is talking about.

Clearly, but I want to know what he was thinking when he said that.


He wasnt.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:24:59 AM EST
Had two at work.

04 f250- put 300,000 on it before we traded it in, minimal maintinece, all oil changes were done at or beyond 10k miles.

06 f250- currently at 230,000. Still in service, I have a hand thick file folder of the work done to it. We replaced the injectors like 3 times, we had water coming out of the exhaust pipe. We paid like 10k last service to get it up to par at 200k miles and a week later the check engine light came on. Took it in again, week later the check engine like is still on.


03 chevy- currently at 320,000 and still in service. replaced the injectors once(stock LB7 injectors sucked), water pump once.

06 chevy- currently at 290,000 and still in service. Replaced the water pump once, I replaced the stock rotors today.

I will say that I HATE changing the f250's fuel filters. Always always always makes a mess. FYI one of the two fuel filters is under the truck mounted horizontally along the frame. The other is ON top of the engine.

Just two comparable brands on comparable years. These trucks tow over 10k regularly, and run nearly everyday of the year. +120 degree Las Vegas weather.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:25:38 AM EST
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:32:54 AM EST
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Originally Posted By godzillamax:

I'm sure this varies somewhat by truck, but my '05 F250 diesel takes 15 quarts. It costs me a lot more to do the oil change on my truck than my wife's car because I'm using twice as much oil. I use Rotella T and Ford filters on my truck, but haven't made the switch to synthetic yet (not convinced it is worth the added cost).
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Originally Posted By godzillamax:
Originally Posted By Justin-Kase:
Originally Posted By DriftPunch:
Originally Posted By Ehaban:
Just expect to budget 2000 to 4000 dollars per year on maintenance.



WTF! It's a Ferrari in disguise!

How much worse is that than a GM or Cummins?

It's nonsense, an oil change is slightly more expensive on a diesel, 10-12 qts vs 6 or 7 on a gasser,

I'm sure this varies somewhat by truck, but my '05 F250 diesel takes 15 quarts. It costs me a lot more to do the oil change on my truck than my wife's car because I'm using twice as much oil. I use Rotella T and Ford filters on my truck, but haven't made the switch to synthetic yet (not convinced it is worth the added cost).

10 on a Duramax, 12 on a Cummins, I thought the last Ford I had held 12 quarts also, but I could have foggy memory that was 15+ years ago.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:33:59 AM EST
Right before you do the oil cooler and egr, do a coolant flush. The problems with the 6.0 is there is casting sand left in the block and it blocks the coolant going into the oil cooler, which restricts the egr, which leads to the heads not getting any coolant and stretching the bolt and popping the head gasket. There are write-ups all over the ford diesel forums on how to do it, and once you're done, you'll have a super reliable truck.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 9:47:22 AM EST
I own an 05 F250 w/ the 6.0. I pulled a small single axle trailer and some house hold goods from Chattanooga, TN to Fairbanks, AK with no issues. My family of five were comfortable and had plenty of room in the cab. The winters up here are hard on diesels up here (was hard on mine anyway). Forgot to plug it in one night when the temps were at -30 and it was very difficult to start the next day. I also let it idle a bunch last year during the winter (-30 to -40 temps). I had to replace an EGR valve and have the turbo cleaned last spring to the tune of about $1,000. Dealer said letting one idle for long periods of time without blowing out the engine would cause such shenanigans. I live on post and use mine as a daily driver so it was idling much and only being driven about for or five miles a day at speeds of about 25 MPH. The dealer and other mechanics recommended getting it out on the road and stressing the engine during the winter months to keep things "cleaned out". Not sure if they were full of crap or not, but I have received similar advice from others. Other than the issue w/ the EGR valve last winter, I have had no problems w/ my truck. I like it and plan on keeping it.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 10:04:48 AM EST
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Originally Posted By CPTCARL:
I own an 05 F250 w/ the 6.0. I pulled a small single axle trailer and some house hold goods from Chattanooga, TN to Fairbanks, AK with no issues. My family of five were comfortable and had plenty of room in the cab. The winters up here are hard on diesels up here (was hard on mine anyway). Forgot to plug it in one night when the temps were at -30 and it was very difficult to start the next day. I also let it idle a bunch last year during the winter (-30 to -40 temps). I had to replace an EGR valve and have the turbo cleaned last spring to the tune of about $1,000. Dealer said letting one idle for long periods of time without blowing out the engine would cause such shenanigans. I live on post and use mine as a daily driver so it was idling much and only being driven about for or five miles a day at speeds of about 25 MPH. The dealer and other mechanics recommended getting it out on the road and stressing the engine during the winter months to keep things "cleaned out". Not sure if they were full of crap or not, but I have received similar advice from others. Other than the issue w/ the EGR valve last winter, I have had no problems w/ my truck. I like it and plan on keeping it.
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You will continue to have those issues with the EGR valve. Eventually your truck will blow white smoke, lose power, and die on the side of the road (which I'm guessing is what probably got you into the shop the time you had the EGR replaced). I would advise if you don't plan on doing the EGR delete (which technically is illegal for any street driven vehicle - its only for off-road vehicles) then I would advise pulling your EGR valve every 5,000-10,000 miles and cleaning it. I used to do mine every 15,000 miles coinciding with the fuel filter change, but now I do mine every 5,000 miles when I do my oil changes. I was surprised at even 5,000 miles how much carbon/soon cakes onto the valve. I'm probably going to buy a replacement EGR valve so that when I pull one to clean it (I let mine soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner first, then I scrub all the carbon/soot from it, then toss on some new gaskets and put it back in) I'm not out my truck for the full day in case I need to drive somewhere.

I'd like to do the EGR delete, but I lack the mechanical automotive skill/know-how to do it myself, and most places I've looked at on-line quote around $2k for the job.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 7:47:56 PM EST
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Originally Posted By godzillamax:


You will continue to have those issues with the EGR valve. Eventually your truck will blow white smoke, lose power, and die on the side of the road (which I'm guessing is what probably got you into the shop the time you had the EGR replaced). I would advise if you don't plan on doing the EGR delete (which technically is illegal for any street driven vehicle - its only for off-road vehicles) then I would advise pulling your EGR valve every 5,000-10,000 miles and cleaning it. I used to do mine every 15,000 miles coinciding with the fuel filter change, but now I do mine every 5,000 miles when I do my oil changes. I was surprised at even 5,000 miles how much carbon/soon cakes onto the valve. I'm probably going to buy a replacement EGR valve so that when I pull one to clean it (I let mine soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner first, then I scrub all the carbon/soot from it, then toss on some new gaskets and put it back in) I'm not out my truck for the full day in case I need to drive somewhere.

I'd like to do the EGR delete, but I lack the mechanical automotive skill/know-how to do it myself, and most places I've looked at on-line quote around $2k for the job.
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Originally Posted By godzillamax:
Originally Posted By CPTCARL:
I own an 05 F250 w/ the 6.0. I pulled a small single axle trailer and some house hold goods from Chattanooga, TN to Fairbanks, AK with no issues. My family of five were comfortable and had plenty of room in the cab. The winters up here are hard on diesels up here (was hard on mine anyway). Forgot to plug it in one night when the temps were at -30 and it was very difficult to start the next day. I also let it idle a bunch last year during the winter (-30 to -40 temps). I had to replace an EGR valve and have the turbo cleaned last spring to the tune of about $1,000. Dealer said letting one idle for long periods of time without blowing out the engine would cause such shenanigans. I live on post and use mine as a daily driver so it was idling much and only being driven about for or five miles a day at speeds of about 25 MPH. The dealer and other mechanics recommended getting it out on the road and stressing the engine during the winter months to keep things "cleaned out". Not sure if they were full of crap or not, but I have received similar advice from others. Other than the issue w/ the EGR valve last winter, I have had no problems w/ my truck. I like it and plan on keeping it.


You will continue to have those issues with the EGR valve. Eventually your truck will blow white smoke, lose power, and die on the side of the road (which I'm guessing is what probably got you into the shop the time you had the EGR replaced). I would advise if you don't plan on doing the EGR delete (which technically is illegal for any street driven vehicle - its only for off-road vehicles) then I would advise pulling your EGR valve every 5,000-10,000 miles and cleaning it. I used to do mine every 15,000 miles coinciding with the fuel filter change, but now I do mine every 5,000 miles when I do my oil changes. I was surprised at even 5,000 miles how much carbon/soon cakes onto the valve. I'm probably going to buy a replacement EGR valve so that when I pull one to clean it (I let mine soak for 24 hours in carb cleaner first, then I scrub all the carbon/soot from it, then toss on some new gaskets and put it back in) I'm not out my truck for the full day in case I need to drive somewhere.

I'd like to do the EGR delete, but I lack the mechanical automotive skill/know-how to do it myself, and most places I've looked at on-line quote around $2k for the job.


Thanks for the heads up! Will start researching how to get the valve off!
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 7:53:30 PM EST
[Last Edit: 12/13/2013 7:55:23 PM EST by Mossyrocks]
We had one, never towed any weight. Got rid of it at 75k on the 4th motor. Had wet dreams every night. Sometimes oil, sometimes antifreeze.

Edit to add: we had a 7.3 before it and still do. 300k and still going strong.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 7:58:42 PM EST
I have owned everything from a 7.3, through the 6.0, to the 6.4. Ford lost it's way when it went from the 7.3. I know the gov't made it happen, but they have sucked ever since 7.3.

The humpers will defend the junk, but I can't. I still have an 08 with a 6.4 in it, my deuce with a Cat 3116 gets better mileage. And that's no bullshit.
Link Posted: 12/13/2013 8:00:25 PM EST
Have an '05 with zero problems since brand new. Best vehicle I've ever owned, bar none.

IMHO the 6.0 is GTG - except for when modified. I would never 'chip' one, nor own one that had ever been chipped. It is a shitty motor for hot-rodding, that's where the stretched studs come into play a lot.

My rig spends the majority of its life pulling a 5ver up & down Western U.S. roads/highways. Prior to the 5'ver it pulled a 11-12k toy box all over the Western U.S. I run fuel treatment in every tank & I never let Ford 'flash' it... that fucked up a ton of otherwise good trucks. I get the same power & MPG I've got since the beginning.


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