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Posted: 12/13/2006 3:43:50 PM EDT
Finally got around to doing my front brakes this weekend. Installed new rotors, calipers and pads. All with lifetime warranty. Total cost was $180 (including a jack and jack stand set) and 90 minutes of time. The shop wanted $460 to do the same job. I don't think I'll ever again pay someone for work I can do myself with a little bit of patience and the manual.
So far this year I've replaced the water pump, front brakes and a blend door actuator. I figure I saved almost $500 in shop labor and parts markup. |
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Basic repairs most people should just do themselves (brakes, water pump, heater cores (unless EXTREMELY complicated removal), exhaust, plugs, wires, oil/tranny fluid change, shocks....). Saves ALOT of money. Some things SHOULD be left to a dealer (air bag system, tps/map/maf/tif issues, sensative electronic enviormental systems) unless you are a mechanic yourself or have ALOT of patience and/or $$.
Rebuilding a motor, well thats your call. SOme people can do them in their sleep, some couldnt rebuild a lego house if they tried. |
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I'm buying a 1977 Ford Hi Boy after the beginning of the year. Planning on rebuilding the motor on it. Should be an interesting endeavor. It's a 3rd vehicle, so it won't matter how long I take. |
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If it doesn't have the 460 may want to think about picking up a 460, rebuilding it and swaping it in. Only reason I dont do oil changes is lack of place to dispose, but I've been told Auto Zone will take it... may have to start. |
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If you can do brakes, the TPS, MAP, AIS, ETC. should be easy if you know how to read... |
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I just repaired a 460...leaking rear main [two piece]..tried pulling the pan and rear cap, and replacing the seal..got it done, still leaking, seal groove in crank. pulled the engine, installed new crank, bearing and rod bearings, and new timing chain. Did an intake gasket while the engine was out.re-installedit and fired it off today, set timing, runs sweet and no oil leaks. |
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Swapped out motor, oil changes, water pumps, brakes, timing chains, belts, plugs, alternators, starters, etc, etc. Can not beat the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
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Sounds sweet... I know basically NOTHING About engines but my Dad does so I just follow his lead and do what im told And My Bronco has a 400 that is leaking right now and prob will, but if we get a new motor its gonna be a solid 460, maybe a lil upgraded but I still want to run on Pump Gas.... I can buy our old mechanics blower set up and make a 5 something but then I think I would need to run on something besides 87 |
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If you have the skills and ability to do your own repairs , then by all means do it . Although , as an automotive shop owner I need to tell you that sometimes even the simplest jobs can bite you on the ass . Case in point : This week I took in a 2006 Dodge turbo diesel that the owner changed the oil in. Unfortunately he stripped the threads on the budget oil filter he bought , and the filter popped off on the highway and smoked the engine and the turbo before it shutdown . Now he's looking at $6500 in repairs that are not covered under any warranty because he did it himself . He not only doesn't have the money to fix it , but it's his work truck . So he's not making a dime while it sits in my lot while he tries to find the money . This isn't an isolated incident either , because I see 4-5 other vehicles a year that show up on the back of a tow truck from DIY'er work . Again , I'm not saying don't do your own work . I'm just offering a little tech tip not to get in over your head and to be real careful on what looks like an easy job |
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This is good advice right here, if its a newer car dont screw around, and Dont buy Dodges |
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I do my own repairs. It sucks when the weather turns to shit and you don't have a garage.
Sometimes it's just too damn cold to hold onto a ratchet. I've nursed motors with oil throughout the winter, so I can fix seals in the spring. Just keep a close eye on the oil level. The first warm day is time to get out the tools. Shoveling snow to craw under the car...or fixing things in the rain sucks. But sometimes there is no other choice. Not all of us can afford shop labor fees or new cars. The satisfaction of DIY is worth it though. |
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I used to do a lot of my own work but not so much any more. I have sort of unlimited overtime on my job. I put the car in the shop and work a little overtime to pay for it. My job is one hell of a lot easier than climbing under the car in winter.
Motorcycle work is another story, there I do all of my own. |
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"I figure I saved almost $500 in shop labor and parts markup." Absolutely! And that leaves more money for guns. Just don't get too good at it. My wife and daughter think I can fix anything and have been known to volunteer my services. |
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Before I got my TDI, I hadn't done any maintenance besides changing an air filter. But I took my TDI into the dealership for its second service, brought them my own oil- one gallon, for a car that takes 4.5qts technically, but will be full with a gallon. Somehow my car ended up with over 6 quarts of oil! And I paid over $100 for that??(other stuff "done" too)
Since then, the only person other than myself who has touched my car was the guy who did my timing belt. And that wasn't at a dealership, he was a trusted fellow enthusiast who does these things on the side. All other maintenance I've done myself and while I hate knowing that I could be doing something else with my time, it feels great to accomplish something and know that I saved myself some money while I was at it. I have some new springs/struts and rear sway bar to install, and probably need new brakes soon too. I'll be doing that with the help of a friend. The biggest problem I have is tools, or lack thereof. I have to take a REALLY close look at what I'm getting into before I get started, and make sure I have what I need to do the job.
I remember reading somewhere that large fleets have like 90% of their mechanical failures immediately after an oil change! Lucky for me I only change mine every 10k miles so there aren't very many chances to screw it up. |
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Feels good saving all that doesnt it?
This year i replaced all the hoses, belts, starter, thermostat, oil seal, CV shaft, plugs and wires. To replace the oil seal they would have charged close to $300. It was only a $12 part at a nissan dealer. I had no idea how to change some of these but i researched it online, found a manual and tips and got it done easily. |
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If it doesn't require extensive machining or a specialized diagnostic computer, I do it myself.
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Having worked in dealerships I will say a couple of things. First, when a vehicle comes in on a hook, with parts in the trunk and a Haines manual on the backseat, the customer is automatically informed it is likely to be an expensive repair because we will have to figure out what they screwed up (or didn't) before we can start work. Second, when you do your own work you are responsible for you mistakes, and mistakes happen. If you change your own oil and leave the old gasket on the block and your engine runs dry and locks, you buy it, if the filter is defective and the threads are no good, you bough the engine, if you get in a hurry and leave the oil cap off, you pay for/do the clean up, if you get in a hurry and forget to put the oil in you buy the engine, if you screw up the drain plug threads you buy the engine.
I know, none of you are dumb enough to make these mistakes, but it happens to professionals at independant shops and dealers everyday, and when it does, they buy the new engines. I change my own oil, but that is because I am dirt poor, and really can't affoed the extra two or thee bucks. I worked at a Wal-Mart oil change place for a while, and would recomend them, they are not paid on any kind of commision at all, if they recomend something for your car, it is because they really feel it needs it, in fact they don't even do repairs, and they are not allowed to recmend a garage, so they have no incentive at all to sell you anything. Plus if they screw somethign up, they will pay for it. |
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I've done it all over the years at work and for myself and family.
It's allot you can do yourself and save money. As stated above, be careful and don't get in over your head. Know when to say when. DIY repairs done wrong can cost big bucks. Danny |
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Shop rate
$45 an hour $55 an hour if you watch and offer advice. $75 an hour if you worked on it first! |
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+1...it is real easy to get in over ones head..when I did that 460..I had a lift for the truck, cherry picker capable of lifting the 460 fully dressed, and a engine stand capable of hold it. As well as air tools and various other tools that make life a tad easier in the shop. Dberk..stay away from the older 460's.......unless you like oil leaks. |
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when I was 18, I brought my car to the shop to have the shocks replaced. I watched the guy put it on the lift, remove two bolts from the top, two bolts from the bottom, then reverse the process to install the new shock.
I felt like an idiot for paying someone else to to that...ever since then, I have done all of the work on my cars. |
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LOL George |
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Fixing your own car is greatness. I love the feeling you get when its running right again.
Earlier this year I had the misfortune of wrecking my car. The shop said 5 Grand to fix. I scrounged the wrecking yards for the body parts and used my dads truck to pull the structure back straight. Then searched the internet and found a deal on the airbag install. Used my own paint gun to shoot the paint. the car looks like new and runs and drive great for 1200U$ |
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My personal favorite...."steering column in a box" owner gets into his steering column thinking that it will be a snap to fix.......and I get a tow-in with a box of steering column parts.
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+1 |
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I will guarantee you that when I work on my car, I'm much more interested in getting it right and double-checking everything than any professional mechanic (number one reason why I do my own work). If you have any mechanical ability at all, no one else cares for your own car than you do. This is not to slam mechanics, as there are many good ones out there, but the run of the mill Wal-Mart, Sears, Jiffy Lube, Penzoil, etc. employees aren't that well trained or conscientious. The dealers do up the ante a bit with better training, certification and QC measures. Problem with dealers is that there's minimal impact on business and reputation from a "major screw up". Let's say the local Chevy dealer ruins your engine because the drain plug was not tight. Big deal. Insurance covers it. And don't forget, he gains a potential new service customer every time he sells a new Chevy. With a ever-renewing supply of service customers, the dealer can better deal with a major screw up every now and then, and that's a huge plus. Not so with the independent guys. All they have is reputation and if they manage to roast your car, word will get out. Plus, he can't absorb the cost of a new engine like the dealer can. Yes, he may have insurance to cover it, but who wants to turn in the claim, particularly in a small shop. And out of pocket really hurts the bottom line. As a result, the independent guys, if they want to stay in business, are more "professional" and serious about their work. As always, YMMV. My $ 02 |
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I'm getting back into doing a lot of it myself. Cost, time, doing it right, etc....
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I have the same problem. I have done everything to my 94 Z28 my self so I know that car inside and out. That does not mean I know why your moms sebring is ticking... |
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I have been working on my own cars since I got sick of paying someone else to do it. If it's a hobby you will definately end up paying so I figured I would learn to do it all myself.
I took body shop classes and welding classes. Both were very fun and I learned a lot. Working on them is fun at times too. Just depends on if it has to run again by Monday! |
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"I will guarantee you that when I work on my car, I'm much more interested in getting it right and double-checking everything than any professional mechanic (number one reason why I do my own work). If you have any mechanical ability at all, no one else cares for your own car than you do."
I'm a professional Mechanic and if I worked on your car it would be done right because every car that I work on is MY car I take great pride in a job done right the first time. I'm a master Mechanic with 33 years of experience and a great reputation and I refuse to cut corners to beat the flat rate clock. The Dealer is only good for warranty work I worked for a few and I would never take my car to one . Every one is in a hurry to make or beat the "flat rate" and they basically dont give a shit as long they can " ship it ". Wal-Mart, Sears, Jiffy Lube, Penzoil, etc. are for the most part the worst place to take your car . They are good for business for us ,they like to overlook things like the hard to get at grease fittings during a L.O.F. makes for lots of worn out front end parts for me to replace. "Not so with the independent guys. All they have is reputation and if they manage to roast your car, word will get out. Plus, he can't absorb the cost of a new engine like the dealer can. Yes, he may have insurance to cover it, but who wants to turn in the claim, particularly in a small shop. And out of pocket really hurts the bottom line. As a result, the independent guys, if they want to stay in business, are more "professional" and serious about their work." This is true and thats why I work at an independant shop where I can do my best work all of the time. One of the kids doing a oil change on a Town Car "forgot" to put the new oil in and toasted the motor a couple years ago and that one cost the owner plenty , he did the right thing he put her in a rent a car for the time it took to replace her motor with one that was better than what she had. And you know what she still bitched and wasn't happy , but she came back time after time to get something else fixed. We used to call it the black Lincoln from hell. And the kid who screwed it up, well he thought it was funny and said " he made enuf money offa my work the last 4 years to cover it " He dosent work here any more. To the guy that saved a bunch of money doing his own brakes : Great I hope it works out for you , but there is more to it than just changing parts . Did you inspect the calipers for leaks or pistons that may be getting tight ? did you check the slides to see if the calipers float free ? did you lube them ? Did you check the hydraulic hoses for cracks? Did you chip the rust out of the caliper bracket ,wire brush it clean , lube and install a new hardware kit? How about a fluid flush and bleed with new brake fluid ? think of it as mantenance like changing engine oil , your ABS unit just might last a little longer. This is what "should" be done during a $450.00 brake job along with a full vehicle inspection . Oh ! and don't forget to put antiseeze compound on the lugs and around the hub to keep the rim from rusting to the hub. Yea I know this is a little long , but I do take my job seriously afterall its my reputation and possibly YOUR life. Stan. |
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Stan - after having my vehicle in several shops (independent) and watching my friends suffer over the years.... sorry - you are the exception, not the rule. You sounds like a great mechanic I would trust. You'd be the first, though.
I change my own brakes. Have changed mine, and those of my friends and family for 10 years. For the most part - it IS just changing the parts that wear out. But what you mentioned is good stuff. Checking for leaks is simple.... brake fluid leaking - replace or rebuild caliper. I always inspect the bolts, polish them up with scotch brite, and lube with hi-temp brake grease. I never install a new hardware kit unless one is required. Just did a Jeep Wrangler - with a lot of rust, and did have to do that. I do fluid flush and replacements every 30-50k miles... not when I replace pads. Every car I have had for years has aluminum wheels, so you dont rust to a hub... but I do use anti-sieze when installing the hub into the knuckle. Most of these are covered in a Haynes manual. |
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FALARAK , I hear what you are saying , but there are good shops out there you just gotta find them. Its amazin what some shops think they can (and do) get away with. Good thing you dont live in the rust belt with all the salt they put on the roads up here even aluminum rims will corode to the hub so hard that you can barely get them off with a sledge hammer ! Hell its common to see an oil pan rot out and start to leak.
When I see some of the repair orders and see what people pay hock.gif I even get sticker shock , I understand why someone will try to do it yourself . Stan |
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Ahhh yes. The rust belt. None of that here. My Wrangler came from Canada originally, and then lived in Ohio for years... which is why I get to replace so much stuff on it that I normally wouldnt. I cant believe the rust on this thing! The Ujoints were rusted into the driveshafts. The hubs had to be beaten out of the knuckles they were so rusted. I took one look at the calipers, and pitched them. Same with the rotors. Same with the brake hardware kit. The frame had rot and had to be reinforced. The body tub had to be cut out in some places. I broke 4 bolts just trying to install a body tub lift... and those were soaking in penetrating oil for 2 weeks prior. I had to cut the old suspension off. Rust sucks. |
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+1 |
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Exactly. Also the shop space counting on the idea that you even have a shop and or collect tools that you may only need one time during the life of your ownership of that one vehicle. Sometimes it just pays in the long run to have someone else do it. |
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Way to go , and now you got yourself a kool jack and jack stands . Now you'll have more money for ammo . |
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I feel like I should turn in my man card because I paid someone to work on my wife's car. I've never paid anyone to work on my vehicles other than balancing tires and machine work.
She has a 99 malibu with a 3.1, it blew a head gasket and intake gasket. Normally that would be no problem for me. I just had too many things going on to work on it. It cost $700, I know I could have saved at least $300 if I would have done it myself. |
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I've always done the minor work on my vehicles but have really gotten into working on my 01 stang since buying it. I have modified it a great deal and have not had it in a shop other then for paint work.
I've done almost all of the work myself. If it wasn't me, it was a friend with me helping. But either way, I've got it up to 414 rwhp and 384 rwtq on the stock short block. I plan to swap out the short block in the next couple of years so I can push some more to the ground. I may buy an assembled short block, but I plan to do the swap myself. One great thing about doing the work yourself is that you get lots of great tools with the money you save by doing it yourself! |
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$700 for a head gasket is a good deal. The real question is now - why did it blow? Normally, this sort of thing means it was overheated at some point... and if the head warped at all, it is just a matter of time before it blows again, unless you had the head surfaced. |
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I do my own work. I designed and am building my own home around my garage that will include a lift and a dedicated shop.
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The intake gasket was leaking coolant which airlocked the cooling system. This caused it to overheat and warp both heads and blow one gasket. Yes I did have the heads surfaced and leak tested. Now the wife knows better when the idiot lights come on and guages are pegged. eta- it would have cost more, but I supplied all of the parts. I also ran the heads to the engine shop for the machining and pulled them apart to clean them and install new valve seals. So I still managed to get my hands a little bit dirty on the project. |
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Enough said right there! |
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greatness I'm almost finished with my garage workshop for doing light work. I have a 24x24 shop behind the house for major automotive work including engine lift, air compressor, drill press, bench grinder ect. Next will be be a vehicle lift and a lathe |
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A definate +1 for doing your own repairs.
But it's important to know your limits. Not just your ability, but your facilities! If you have a full shop with air and a lift at your disposal, sweet! But there is nothing wrong with having a vehicle serviced by a reputable shop and paying to have it done right, the FIRST time. Being smart means knowing what you can do yourself, and what you cannot! |
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Since this thread is still going , I thought I would post an update on the
on the 06 Dodge Diesel . The owner located a " Rebuilt " engine for $1200 less then the dodge OE price . Typically I won't install customer supplied parts because I can't control the quality of said parts , but I went against my better judgement and agreed to install his engine without my standard parts warranty ( I can't warranty what I didn't supply ) because I felt sorry for him . Hey I've been there myself Anyway . It turns out that his " Rebuilt " is an older version of the engine so many of the parts would not swap over to the replacement engine . Locating and buying the parts he needed took a few days and cost him an additional $900+ . It also required some additional labor on my part to clean and fit the used parts so that they would accept the brackets and sensors for the 06 control system in his truck . Much of which I didn't even charge for . Once everything was said and done , we fired up the engine for break in and operating check . Everything checked out OK , except for oil pressure which was about half what I want to see as normal . I hoped it was a senor problem , but unfortunately a manual gauge confirmed it was real and most likely caused by excessive bearing clearance in the rebuilt The owner contacted the re builder and was told that they won't do shit unless the engine fails , and if he wants them to look at it he would have to remove it and ship it back to them . At His Expense ! So now he has a running vehicle with questionable oil pressure , in a 4 month old truck that is no longer under factory warranty because of the non OE parts . So the moral of the story is : Be careful when working on your own vehicle , and be even more careful about the parts you buy and who you buy them from |
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I dont even know what owning a vehicle with a warranty is like!
My starter has been acting up... for the last 2 weeks I have been carrying a small hammer with me... having to tap it from time to time to get it to crank. I finally decided 2 nights ago it was time. This is a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 150k on the clock. Crawled underneath, two nuts for the wiring harness, two bolts for the starter, and off to AutoZone I go. I was looking at the starter, which I assumed I have replaced before. But there it is, still with the Chrysler sticker on it. That's pretty good to get 10 years of HARD use out of a starter. Anyway - picked up the "made in Mexico" special for $53 at the Zone, with a lifetime warranty. I'll never have to buy a starter for this car again. Took 1.5 hours start to finish, including time to buy the part. I didnt even get out the Haynes manual (gasp!) |
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" Lifetime " warranty's are a wonderful thing ........... Provided you don't have to " USE " that warranty every 2 weeks for the rest of your life |
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That's true. I havent yet. I know these arent "quality" parts. But I rarely have to replace something more than twice. Typically if I get a part that lasts two weeks, it will last several years. I did get a fuel pump for the Cherokee about 5 years ago. It went out within 2 weeks. Went back, got another, and again, 2 weeks. Mind you, this is having to drain and pull a fuel tank each time, not fun at all. After that one died... I went to Jeep as asked them WTH??? They tell me that the plastic tanks they used have a liner that is breaking down... and they are just starting to see this. They blamed the ethanol and other additives which were starting to be used, not present when the tank was designed. Of course, no recall or anything. So... they tell me to drain the tank, and scrub it out with chemtool.... which I did. A lot of brown film came off. I buy the Jeep fuel pump ($600!!!!) because I am sick of replacing pumps. Well, that lasts about 3 months. I take it back to Jeep and have to replace the tank, pump (under warranty) and this time I actually pay to have them do it. This was the first time I had a car in a shop in over 10 years. I was so sick of replacing that pump.... I wanted it completely covered... and I was gonna tear Jeep a new ass if it EVER let me down. Last 4 years, been running strong. |
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