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9/22/2017 12:11:25 AM
Posted: 5/18/2003 10:50:01 AM EDT
I seem to have removed a hair too much material from the arm that blocks the trigger's rear movement. Now it will fire even if the grip safety is not depressed, just barely. Any ideas on what to use to build that surface back up for re-fitting? It's a stainless steel part. Would something like JB-Weld work or do I need to use a real weld? Any input is welcome.
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 1:20:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/18/2003 1:28:28 PM EDT by Sheldon]
I think you may have removed quite a bit too much metal. I think the trigger bow is just supposed to clear the grip safety when the grip safety is FULLY depressed. I hear they peen the metal out a little for minor adjustments, but welding would probably be the best way. Maybe JB Weld a piece of metal along side the existing fitted section and refit to that? I don't know how well the JB weld would hold up to daily use though.
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 2:00:48 PM EDT
Get a new part. JB weld will not last. It's a safety part so I would want to be sure about it's reliability. I know a lot of guys used to pin the grip safety to deactivate it but I would rather have it working myself.
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 2:32:12 PM EDT
the holy JB weld will crack. Its just too brittle to stand up to impact loading
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 2:33:33 PM EDT
I agree with shooter. Get a new part. They're not that expensive, and you can write down the cost of the ruined one to "expenses, learning."
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 4:23:40 PM EDT
Any good machine shop should be able to build it up with a welder. 5 min job.
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 4:30:42 PM EDT
If you toss it in favor of a new one, please toss it my way. A couple of hits with the round end of a ball pein hammer and the safety lever will be good as new. That is how 99.9% of the big time builders fix that. Welding takes too much time to set it up then refit, JB weld or similar stuff will fail at a critical time, but peening the edge will last forever and takes less than minute to do. Get a copy of Hollick's .45 book, its covered well in there. There isn't much to it once you understand what is needed. Doug Giraud
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 4:50:11 PM EDT
Everyone's input is much appreciated. I will forego the JB Weld approach and try to peen it out. I believe I understand the peening approach but what tools will I need? A steel ball-peen hammer and some type of hard surface, I guess? What size hammer should I get?
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 4:54:11 PM EDT
Originally Posted By 03shooter: Get a new part. JB weld will not last. It's a safety part so I would want to be sure about it's reliability. I know a lot of guys used to pin the grip safety to deactivate it but I would rather have it working myself.
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Yep!! Ya might also wanna try posting in GFD. [;D]
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 4:59:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/18/2003 5:02:22 PM EDT by chuckhammer]
Yep!! Ya might also wanna try posting in GFD. [;D]
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Yep, I did that. *EDIT: Belay that. I posted it under "Gunsmithing" on the Handguns board. I will also post it on GFD.
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 6:04:59 PM EDT
Well, heck, if you want to run it by a BUNCH of 1911 users try here: [url]http://www.1911forum.com/forums/[/url]
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 6:09:24 PM EDT
Originally Posted By dhg2: If you toss it in favor of a new one, please toss it my way. A couple of hits with the round end of a ball pein hammer and the safety lever will be good as new. That is how 99.9% of the big time builders fix that. Welding takes too much time to set it up then refit, JB weld or similar stuff will fail at a critical time, but peening the edge will last forever and takes less than minute to do. Get a copy of Hollick's .45 book, its covered well in there. There isn't much to it once you understand what is needed. Doug Giraud
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Good answer. Ken Hallock is a great guy. He did the Bo-Mars on some of My 1911's, including the one in my avatar.
Link Posted: 5/18/2003 6:25:09 PM EDT
The JB weld is definetely not permanent, and I'm not so sure peening would hold up either. You best bet is to find someone who can Tig weld, which can do a very small welding spot without heating the part and loosing temper. Or get a new part.
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