Fake flash suppressor?

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Fake flash suppressor?

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:31:59 PM EDT

I live in NY, please don't laugh too much.

I'm really not sure if I want to go through the trouble of threading and permanently attaching a muzzle brake, but I HATE the look of the target crown. My rifle has scratches and I use it, so I don't care about it being "pretty" but damn if it just doesn't look neutered.

I know during the Fed. ban there was a type of slip on flash hider that just fit over the barrel. Does anyone still make one of these? I can't find one online.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:39:31 PM EDT

[#1]

Found one

Looking for others.

Or you can do this, then add anything you legally can that's threaded.

Another from SOGArmory.

All found using "post ban flash hider" in any search engine.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:40:08 PM EDT

[#2]

The slip over ones held on by set screws don't work well (ie: didn't actually stay on the gun), I don't think anyone even makes them anymore.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:41:18 PM EDT

[#3]

Quoted:
Found one

Looking for others.

First of all, thanks for looking. That is a set screw one. Those tend to suck, I have tried one of those. I'm actually looking for something that fits flush with the front of the barrel and doesn't deflect any gasses.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:41:28 PM EDT

[#4]

Thread it and put a muzzle brake on it.

Improve the look and reduce the recoil at the same time.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:45:48 PM EDT

[#5]

http://mfiap.com/i-7437374-mfi-m4-navy-seal-marked-style-fake-silencer-universal.html

Maybe?

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:46:08 PM EDT

[#6]

Quoted:
Thread it and put a muzzle brake on it.

Improve the look and reduce the recoil at the same time.

Two things, 1) muzzle brakes are freaking loud, increase muzzle flash and push a lot of air around you. I'm not really sure I want to use one at all. 5.56 in an AR doesn't really need it, but it does help.

2) Any suggestions on where to send the barrel to? I know ADCO is highly revered, but by the time I buy the compensator, mail them the barrel and they cut, thread, and solder the muzzle brake, I'm spending almost $200 and might as well buy a new barrel, which I'm trying to avoid because this is a "spare parts" rifle. If I could do it for less, I would consider it, I'd just have to make sure I picked the right brake the first time.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:49:31 PM EDT

[#7]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thread it and put a muzzle brake on it.

Improve the look and reduce the recoil at the same time.

Two things, 1) muzzle brakes are freaking loud, increase muzzle flash and push a lot of air around you. I'm not really sure I want to use one at all. 5.56 in an AR doesn't really need it, but it does help.

2) Any suggestions on where to send the barrel to? I know ADCO is highly revered, but by the time I buy the compensator, mail them the barrel and they cut, thread, and solder the muzzle brake, I'm spending almost $200 and might as well buy a new barrel, which I'm trying to avoid because this is a "spare parts" rifle. If I could do it for less, I would consider it, I'd just have to make sure I picked the right brake the first time.

I am afraid that $200 or more is gonna be it for one that stays put.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:51:09 PM EDT

[#8]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thread it and put a muzzle brake on it.

Improve the look and reduce the recoil at the same time.

Two things, 1) muzzle brakes are freaking loud, increase muzzle flash and push a lot of air around you. I'm not really sure I want to use one at all. 5.56 in an AR doesn't really need it, but it does help.

2) Any suggestions on where to send the barrel to? I know ADCO is highly revered, but by the time I buy the compensator, mail them the barrel and they cut, thread, and solder the muzzle brake, I'm spending almost $200 and might as well buy a new barrel, which I'm trying to avoid because this is a "spare parts" rifle. If I could do it for less, I would consider it, I'd just have to make sure I picked the right brake the first time.

There's likely a gunsmith local to you that could do it, and would save you the shipping cost. Ask in the NY hometown forum, someone there could probably point you in the right direction. I had a comp permanently attached to a AR barrel recently by a local very reputable gunsmith, only cost me $30 and he did a great job.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:52:02 PM EDT

[#9]

The problem with the setscrew ones is that nobody either dimples the barrel or uses locking cup setscrews. Loctite helps also. Most don't want to mark up their barrels.

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:52:28 PM EDT

[#10]

OP, is this a match/target rifle and is it accurate?

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:55:32 PM EDT

[#11]

Spikes has fake suppressors that just screw on the end of the barrel.

off to find link

Posted: 7/2/2012 6:57:12 PM EDT

[#12]

Quoted:
OP, is this a match/target rifle and is it accurate?

Nope. I wouldn't mess with the crown of a match rifle. It's for a 16" hbar without m4 feed ramps. I had it, a lower, stock, grip and most of the other lower parts I need for a complete rifle, so I bought an A3 upper from BCM and now I'm thinking about what to do with the barrel.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:00:04 PM EDT

[#13]

Quoted:
Spikes has fake suppressors that just screw on the end of the barrel.

off to find link

Thanks, but if my barrel was already threaded I would just get a Claymore, Dynacomp, etc and sent it to ADCO for the $30 it costs to pin and weld it in place. But threading is another $65 which defeats my "hey I can build another rifle with parts I have for under $150" mission.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:01:49 PM EDT

[#14]

Quoted:
The problem with the setscrew ones is that nobody either dimples the barrel or uses locking cup setscrews. Loctite helps also. Most don't want to mark up their barrels.

Even with that and some blue loctite they still have a way of going "PING" during a day of shooting.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:02:39 PM EDT

[#15]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Spikes has fake suppressors that just screw on the end of the barrel.

off to find link

Thanks, but if my barrel was already threaded I would just get a Claymore, Dynacomp, etc and sent it to ADCO for the $30 it costs to pin and weld it in place. But threading is another $65 which defeats my "hey I can build another rifle with parts I have for under $150" mission.

Missed that the barrels not threaded.

Move to a gun friendly state?

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:03:12 PM EDT

[#16]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Thread it and put a muzzle brake on it.

Improve the look and reduce the recoil at the same time.

Two things, 1) muzzle brakes are freaking loud, increase muzzle flash and push a lot of air around you. I'm not really sure I want to use one at all. 5.56 in an AR doesn't really need it, but it does help.

2) Any suggestions on where to send the barrel to? I know ADCO is highly revered, but by the time I buy the compensator, mail them the barrel and they cut, thread, and solder the muzzle brake, I'm spending almost $200 and might as well buy a new barrel, which I'm trying to avoid because this is a "spare parts" rifle. If I could do it for less, I would consider it, I'd just have to make sure I picked the right brake the first time.

There's likely a gunsmith local to you that could do it, and would save you the shipping cost. Ask in the NY hometown forum, someone there could probably point you in the right direction. I had a comp permanently attached to a AR barrel recently by a local very reputable gunsmith, only cost me $30 and he did a great job.

There was a thread recently where someone asked just that. The answer was just "ADCO". It doesn't even need to be a gunsmith, a good machinist should be able to thread a barrel for me... hmmm.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:04:17 PM EDT

[#17]

There is an outfit in Charleston, SC that is making AR barrels for $90.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:04:59 PM EDT

[#18]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Spikes has fake suppressors that just screw on the end of the barrel.

off to find link

Thanks, but if my barrel was already threaded I would just get a Claymore, Dynacomp, etc and sent it to ADCO for the $30 it costs to pin and weld it in place. But threading is another $65 which defeats my "hey I can build another rifle with parts I have for under $150" mission.

Missed that the barrels not threaded.

Move to a gun friendly state?

I know these slip on things exist, I think one of the AR15 SEBR had one during the ban actually. That is way cheaper and easier (I think?) than finding a new job in another state that has the same benefits and pay that my girlfriend and I have currently.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:06:06 PM EDT

[#19]

Quoted:
There is an outfit in Charleston, SC that is making AR barrels for $90.

Do they have a name?

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:06:35 PM EDT

[#20]

paint it on?

I bet there's an airbrush ace at a body shop / hobby store that would

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:06:57 PM EDT

[#21]

Quoted:

Quoted:
The problem with the setscrew ones is that nobody either dimples the barrel or uses locking cup setscrews. Loctite helps also. Most don't want to mark up their barrels.

Even with that and some blue loctite they still have a way of going "PING" during a day of shooting.

Not if you dimple the barrel correctly. I'm not sure what "blue" loctite is rated for as far as temp goes. That might be another issue.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:07:12 PM EDT

[#22]

Quoted:
http://mfiap.com/i-7437374-mfi-m4-navy-seal-marked-style-fake-silencer-universal.html

Maybe?

Thanks, but it looks like they either pin on or screw on, and the whole fake suppressor/NAVY SEAL thing isn't what I'm going for.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:09:12 PM EDT

[#23]

Quoted:

Quoted:

There is an outfit in Charleston, SC that is making AR barrels for $90.

Do they have a name?

Not that I can remember. Sorry.

I know that I got a barrel threaded locally for $50, so I would imagine that you could as well. Probably more up there, but should be less than $100.

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:20:59 PM EDT

[#24]

Quoted:

Quoted:
The problem with the setscrew ones is that nobody either dimples the barrel or uses locking cup setscrews. Loctite helps also. Most don't want to mark up their barrels.

Even with that and some blue loctite they still have a way of going "PING" during a day of shooting.

Not if you dimple the barrel correctly. I'm not sure what "blue" loctite is rated for as far as temp goes. That might be another issue.

300°F

Posted: 7/2/2012 7:27:47 PM EDT

[#25]

Quoted:

Quoted:
The problem with the setscrew ones is that nobody either dimples the barrel or uses locking cup setscrews. Loctite helps also. Most don't want to mark up their barrels.

Even with that and some blue loctite they still have a way of going "PING" during a day of shooting.

Not if you dimple the barrel correctly. I'm not sure what "blue" loctite is rated for as far as temp goes. That might be another issue.

300°F

Probably too close for somebody who does rapid fire shooting. There's other "color" Loctite that are rated higher in temp.

Here's the correct way. Dimple the barrel. This holds the fake FH to the barrel so that is will not come off the barrel.

Properly rated Loctite makes sure the setscrews don't back out under heat and vibration.

Doing one or the other = ping.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Fake flash suppressor?

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