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Posted: 4/22/2016 8:34:55 PM EDT
So a year or more ago ARF recommended I replace the fried 5.2l 318 engine in my 2000 Durango with a salvage or similar.

Picked up a craigslist used 150k mile engine yesterday. As I am mechanically inclined and rather good at replacing parts, I'm no mechanic. What would you recommend for me to check, adjust, look out for, replace, update, traps, tricks?

It has a few oil leaks I can fix with a new gasket set. I've got a compression test gauge, figured I'd spin it with a Milwaukee hole hawg and see if it indicates anything. If so, maybe new rings, bearings and valve job unless the crank journals, rods and pistons are hosed where I'd do a full rebuild. If compression is good, would you pull the bearing caps just to be sure?

I'm on a tight budget but I need dependability. By tight I mean it's buy food or buy parts, I'm not getting both. The cheaper I can do this the better. I'm seeing more than 10 different brands of engine kits from Rockauto, NAPA, Amazon and some randoms on the web. Level of kit varies of course but full engine kits range between $600 to $2500 for non performance goodies. Any suggestion on good value for kit brand or source?

I'll be happy if I can get away with new gaskets, rings and maybe lap the valves.

Link Posted: 4/22/2016 8:40:30 PM EDT
I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to simply buy a rebuilt engine from jasper or some such.

Parts can seem inexpensive. The machine work, and tools to do the measurements and assembly are not.

Replace motor mounts and the hard to reach hoses while the engine is out.
Link Posted: 4/22/2016 8:46:37 PM EDT
Oil pump
Link Posted: 4/22/2016 9:09:11 PM EDT
I'd slam it in and run it as is.



Link Posted: 4/23/2016 1:56:54 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/23/2016 1:59:14 AM EDT by Keekleberrys]
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 3:49:27 AM EDT
318's never die.
Oil pump is probably the biggest problem.

If you're going to rebuild it just get a 360 (then stroke it to 408 ).
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 5:18:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 4/23/2016 5:20:56 AM EDT by CROQ]
Thanks for the replies!

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By saturnstyl:
I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to simply buy a rebuilt engine from jasper or some such.

Parts can seem inexpensive. The machine work, and tools to do the measurements and assembly are not.

Replace motor mounts and the hard to reach hoses while the engine is out.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By saturnstyl:
I'm wondering if it would be cheaper to simply buy a rebuilt engine from jasper or some such.

Parts can seem inexpensive. The machine work, and tools to do the measurements and assembly are not.

Replace motor mounts and the hard to reach hoses while the engine is out.

I had that thought too but Jasper gets up over $3k. I'm frugal, at that price I'd find a newer vehicle. If I can keep under $1000 and it lasts for the next 5 years I'll be happy.

I've rebuilt engines before, outside of machine tools I have the rest. It's just been a few decades and I'm rusty on the "definitely do this" and the things specific to this engine like the plenum plate needing upgraded.

Motor mounts and hoses, check.

Originally Posted By Leon82:
Oil pump



Originally Posted By OverScoped:
I'd slam it in and run it as is.

That was the original plan, but wanted to check with the ARFpros. I'd hate to stuff it in there and then find I could have replaced the well known faulty oil galley plug behind the motor mount over the axle and under the exhaust manifold. Would not be good for the blood pressure.


Originally Posted By Keekleberrys:
Its not very cost effective to rebuild a lot of motors these days. We mostly only do it on newer ones where a complete motor is 15-20 grand or where its cost effective like big honking diesels.The cost of all the replacement parts and machine work is often more than a new long block.

And ONLY when its warranty never customer pay.

Noted. I guess if this engine looks to need machine work I'll slap it back together and resell it. If I can locate a long block for close to or under 1k I might pursue that rather than a similar price on salvage. Any suggestions on reputable yet affordable long block sellers?

Originally Posted By shocktrp:
318's never die.
Oil pump is probably the biggest problem.

If you're going to rebuild it just get a 360 (then stroke it to 408 ).

Oil pump, Thanks.

You know, I've got a 5.9 in a 95 grand cherokee, will it fit? What else do I need for the swap? This may be the back up plan..
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 5:50:03 AM EDT
You need to look into Mopar LA engines.

The older 318/360 (& 273/340) are flat tappet motors.
The 5.2/5.9 Magnum are hydraulic roller motors.

They're all the same on the outside.
They're all basically the same on the inside.
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 11:33:50 AM EDT
Intake plenum gasket/plate - the gasket fails and oil consumption goes through the roof.

I have a '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8 that needs to be fixed......
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 1:28:27 PM EDT
your 95 will bolt in, But the electrical connectors for injectors and such changed in 98.
you would have to pull all your stuff from the 2000 to get it to run.
not sure on the computer except I know the 2 are different, odb I vs odb2.

so you cannot cross parts over to make it run.

It probably would be cheaper to find a wrecked 2000 durango that ran fine and just pull the whole motor and harness as 1 thing, just swap computers and go.

all of the magnum engines are identical for bolting in. just as I said be aware of the usual 96 and up being odbII, and 98 and up have different connectors.
Link Posted: 4/23/2016 4:22:40 PM EDT
Plenum gasket. Stock timing chain is usually stretched quite a bit. Stock heads are pretty much always cracked, usually doesn't hurt anything though.


Take a look at the cam when you have the intake manifold off.



This freeze plug in the bellhousing was the instigating factor for pulling mine.

Link Posted: 4/24/2016 11:23:32 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By shocktrp:
You need to look into Mopar LA engines.

The older 318/360 (& 273/340) are flat tappet motors.
The 5.2/5.9 Magnum are hydraulic roller motors.

They're all the same on the outside.
They're all basically the same on the inside.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By shocktrp:
You need to look into Mopar LA engines.

The older 318/360 (& 273/340) are flat tappet motors.
The 5.2/5.9 Magnum are hydraulic roller motors.

They're all the same on the outside.
They're all basically the same on the inside.

How does a California emission engine vary? The body is from California, the used engine from the midwest.


Originally Posted By brian4wd:
Intake plenum gasket/plate - the gasket fails and oil consumption goes through the roof.

I have a '94 Grand Cherokee 5.2 V8 that needs to be fixed......

On the list. Thanks!

Originally Posted By Andrewh:
your 95 will bolt in, But the electrical connectors for injectors and such changed in 98.
you would have to pull all your stuff from the 2000 to get it to run.
not sure on the computer except I know the 2 are different, odb I vs odb2.

so you cannot cross parts over to make it run.

It probably would be cheaper to find a wrecked 2000 durango that ran fine and just pull the whole motor and harness as 1 thing, just swap computers and go.

all of the magnum engines are identical for bolting in. just as I said be aware of the usual 96 and up being odbII, and 98 and up have different connectors.

Looks like I'll skip the Jeep/Durango swap. Thanks for the info.

Originally Posted By Hahns10mm:
Plenum gasket. Stock timing chain is usually stretched quite a bit. Stock heads are pretty much always cracked, usually doesn't hurt anything though.


Take a look at the cam when you have the intake manifold off.

http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/HahnsB2/2012-06-06_18-57-51_558.jpg

This freeze plug in the bellhousing was the instigating factor for pulling mine.

http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo356/HahnsB2/2012-06-03_19-07-15_956.jpg

That cam looks healthy. I'll double check timing chain and cam.

Thanks everyone.
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