UPDATE: The box the switch is in also has a GFI in it, wired into the circuit. I pulled BOTH out of the box last night looking for wire nuts, none to be found. I checked all the screws and found that the GFI ground wire screw was 1/2-3/4 turn loose, everything else was nice and snug. I've buttoned up everything and SO-FAR no sizzling. Maybe it was the problem? Will give it a little time to see how it goes...In the mean time, thanks a bunch to all who offered help.

Got a little puzzle for ya'll. I've had real problems with a light switch in my bathroom. We had a triple switch put in to handle 2 different sets of lights, plus a vent fan and the switch seems to be failing frequently. First one installed started 'sizzling' when you'd switch it on after maybe 3-4 months. Replaced it with a different brand (Cooper) from Lowes. It made it less than a week and again started sizzling when you'd switch on the light. Also the lights would be dim while the sizzling was going on. After a second or so, the sizzling would stop and the lights would brighten.

OK, time for ANOTHER switch. This time I went high dollar ($20) for a Leviton...After ONE DAY the damn thing is sizzling and acting just like the others.

I installed the last two myself, used the screw terminals instead of the stab contacts and now I'm bewildered. I can 'kinda' believe getting a bad switch initially...can even barely believe a second bad switch...but a THIRD???

If anyone can provide clues as to what's going on I'd sure appreciate it.

BTW, each set of switch contacts is rated for 15A with a total for the switch unit (all 3) of 20A. The lights being switched usually consist of a pair of 60W bulbs, hardly a load to even worry about.

Any help?

Check the wire nuts, they can do that if loose. You have joints made in the back of the sw. box, more than likely.

Never thought of that. I'll check it this evening when I get home..Thanks

I'm +1 with "big" on his reply; sounds like a loose connection. The wirenuts and switch connections are going to be the easiest to check. If that doesn't fix it, and it isn't too much of a job, check the connections AT the light fixtures also. Both hot and neutral.
Stay safe

I'd kill the power to the circuit when no one's home until it's repaired.  You might also want to test that breaker/fuse.  I'm surprised it hasn't tripped.

Quoted: BTW, each set of switch contacts is rated for 15A with a total for the switch unit (all 3) of 20A. Any help?

I don't know how you arrived at that figure, but 20A and a 15A switch are not a good thing.  Describe in detail exactly what you are doing.  

height=8

Quoted: I'd kill the power to the circuit when no one's home until it's repaired.  You might also want to test that breaker/fuse.  I'm surprised it hasn't tripped.

Its not going to trip if its sparking between the hot wires. Only trip if a hot goes to the neutral or ground

Quoted: but 20A and a 15A switch are not a good thing.  Describe in detail exactly what you are doing.

Wait, you can put a 15A switch/receptical on a 20A circuit...right?

Quoted: Quoted: but 20A and a 15A switch are not a good thing.  Describe in detail exactly what you are doing.   Wait, you can put a 15A switch/receptical on a 20A circuit...right?

Yep, the amperage is just what its maximum rating is, so you couldn't exceed a 15A draw on the receptical nor 20A on the whole circuit.

That doesn't make sense though. You might be constantly tripping the breaker. Just get the right one

Sorry for the confusion here fella's. The switch assembly has two different amperage ratings. Each contact set is rated at 15A individually, the TOTAL rating for the switch assembly is 20A. The breaker is a 20A and has never tripped. Also there's a GFI in the circuit as well. Unless I end up with a short somewhere I don't think there's any way I'll be pulling anywhere close to this though. One of the switch's is handling a pair of 60W bulbs (1 A there), another switch has 5- 40W (< 2A on that) bulbs on it and the other has a bathroom vent motor on it. All told, should be FAR below pulling 20A...

you don't have aluminum wiring do you?

assuming that you don't i'd suggest that the next time you hear the sizzle that you kill the power at the breaker and carefully feel for a hot spot.

At which point after frying several switches did it dawn on you that it might not be the switch?

I think the last switch 'failing' sort of drove it home to me. The rewiring job was done by a professional, experienced electrician. It never occured to me that when you can HEAR the switch sizzling, maybe it WASN'T the switch. Lets face it, it's much easier to believe that a piece of easily replaced hardware has failed than that a wire nut which hasn't been disturbed has 'worked loose'.  

I'm not an electrician but I'd say something was wrong.  

Any other symptoms ?  Do the lights flicker when you hear the switch sizzle ? Is it always the same circuit ( lights ) ?  Can you describe this " triple switch " ? Can it be replaced with three standard light switches ?

Take all the bulbs from one circuit, see if it sizzles, then replace. Repeat for the other circuit.

Have you used the same faceplate for all 3 switches?  I wonder if the hole in the faceplate is out of spec, not allowing the switch to fully close.  

You might want to try a replacement plate (or flip the original upside down.)

Papermaker

Pull the switch out of the box and and try it out. Listen closely where the ark is coming from. My hunch is it is coming from your neutral wire nut or where the hot is spliced before the switches.
Also if it has been arcing in a nut it will be discolored and pos ably melted. And it will stink like burnt dog shit.
Kill the power and check the splices. My bet is on one of the wires is not completely making contact under the nut or has become broken from over tightening the nut.

IM me if you need help