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Posted: 8/23/2006 7:40:04 AM EDT
I do a lot of highway driving with lots of inclines with the AC on.
The 04' Toyo 1.8L is a pooch going up hills.
I was considering welding in a Magnaflow to enhance high rpm hp. Stock tip welded in.
No coffee can sized tips and no fart can ghetto punk sounds for me.
Will the Maggie sound boy racer? Any high perf system with no tailpipe will be hard to keep quiet correct?
Any options for me besides getting a V-8
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 8:12:51 AM EDT
You said Performance and 4 cylinder in the same sentence with a straight face.

Just kidding.

I have to say, I don't know how much SOTP (seat of the pants) performance you'd feel with just a muffler, or even a 'cat back' upgrade to your exhaust system.  To even 'feel' it, you're probably looking at needing to enhance the intake system (Cold air intake), and enhance the exhaust from the headers back on down the line.

As for 'quiet', I have found magnaflow to have the quietest performance exhaust of most brands.

Link Posted: 8/23/2006 9:57:20 AM EDT
This car 100% showroom stock. No stripes, stickers etc.
I just an old man looking for some extra ponies to get up these steep Sierra Nevadas.
May try a Magnaflow but with the muffler at the end of the system with a 4"long tail pipe
it may sound raspy and ghetto. I can't stand 4 bangers but the 40mpg highway is nice.
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 10:01:14 AM EDT

This car 100% showroom stock. No stripes, stickers etc.
I just an old man looking for some extra ponies to get up these steep Sierra Nevadas.
May try a Magnaflow but with the muffler at the end of the system with a 4"long tail pipe
it may sound raspy and ghetto. I can't stand 4 bangers but the 40mpg highway is nice.

I would look into K&N airfilter and computer chip and maybe a muffler. It is rare for a muffler to actually give gains by itself. If anything itll be 1-5hp max. I have a BORLA on my Cherokee and with the JET chip and K&N filter, we picked up both TQ and HP. but thats comparing apples to oranges. Jus make sure your car is tuned up and in good working order. ALso make sure tires are properly inflated, under inflation will cost ya. Dont forget to wax it. Makes ya cut thru the air better.
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 11:05:04 AM EDT
your not gonna find somthing near stock for a 1zz or a 2zz engine(toyotas 1.8s)

your also only lookin at 4-10 hp in gains, realisticly its not feelable.  as for a "chip" i dont know of anything for under a grand that u can buy like say a domestic.

if u still want the exhaust, look for a JDM brand that is "JASMA" cert. they will tend to be the quietest units(as they comply with japanese street noise laws, which, are stricter than ours.)  greddy units(i dont know the model, its the one u see on everything, tend to be fairly quiet also) even with those u will need to use a silencer, which robs power.

its hard to get any real ammount of power out of a 2zz, a 1zz is a little easier.  as mentioned earlier, a k&n filter, but then your only lookin at probly a 1-2hp gain for both engines.

cams make a big diff in those those engines, but, you will need to open up the intake and exhaust, which, equals noise.

the noise thing tends to come with power, not always, but most of the time.  my advice for the hills is, downshift and spin the hell out of the engine, they are meant to.

i assume your either driving a celica gt or GTS or a mr2s?
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 11:27:13 AM EDT
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 12:16:35 PM EDT

You just may want to just try having it reprogramed.

04' means it is OBDII so can be reprogramed for higher octane, slightly higher on the RPM limiter, and speed limiter (might as well while you  are at it).  This can give you a slight performance increase equal to about what pocket rockets loud muffler does without reprograming plus it doesn't take away from your resale value and is easily reversable.

If you want to do it yourself, you can buy the programmer for around $400-$500 with custom program.  This will allow you to switch anytime you want from performance mode to economy mode.


thats a bad idea, the 1.8 ZZ engines arleady are high comp and run on 91.... it would help if i knew exactly what the car is to begin with tho.  also, "Tom's" has lots of stuff, and stay away from TRD america parts, the quality has gone down the shitter.
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 12:21:44 PM EDT
the installation of a camcon may help a little but dont lower the VVTi engagement point too low or you will just end up with no low end and wretched gas milage.

adding an intake may add a bit of power to the mid and top end also. realisticly though, a larger TB will be needed to take full advantage of it, along with something like an SAFC from Apex integration.

Link Posted: 8/23/2006 12:54:40 PM EDT
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 5:28:05 PM EDT
I'd look for a used TDI.  Diesel torque + turbocharged + Mountains =
And if that's not enough, chip or injector nozzle upgrades are cheap.

Seriously though, if you have to do a lot of mountain driving, want decent mileage and decent power, I'd really look for something with forced induction.  IIRC, you lose 13% of your oxygen at an altitude of 5,000ft, thus a significant power reduction.  With a turbocharger, you have near-sea level performance at altitude.  I think turbocharged cars also have a broader torque curve, which means less downshifting and less high-rpm gas guzzling when climbing a grade.  Unfortunately, I don't know of any turbocharged cars that get good mileage(except for the VW TDI). A friend of mine lives at about 7,000ft, has a turbocharged Saab 9-3, I think he said he averages about 35mpg.  Not bad, but not great either.  I've only been in it once, but it seemed to perform just fine.

A naturally aspirated 4cyl for mountain driving just sounds like a dead-end.  It's my understanding that exhaust/intake mods are usually aimed for high rpm improvements, and will result in reduction in power at lower rpm.  IF that is the case, then they won't help unless you're screaming up the mountain in that upper rpm range.

Is your car an auto or manual?  If it's an auto, taking it out of overdrive before you start the climb can make a big difference.  If it's a manual, then maybe downshifting is necessary.  You probably already know that, but some people don't so I thought it was worth mentioning.  Being in the right gear at the right time can make a huge difference.

ETA:  Weight makes a big difference.  Do you have a bunch of crap in the car that you can get rid of?
Link Posted: 8/23/2006 6:28:02 PM EDT
I keep my vehicles free of any items except the passengers and Glocks.
I have th 1.8L, 128hp torqueless wonder. (Corolla) this is a GREAT flatland
cruiser @ 65-75 mph. I travel from 2000ft to 5000ft everyday so going up is a 4000rpm challenge. I may just get a V-6 Taco or RAV. The Rav has the 270hp Lexus V-6
and gets 21mpg city. I don't want to ghetto up my Corolla with aftermarket rice shit. The previous poster is right about opening up the exhaust on a stock engine.
It will diminish low end tq. Thanks for the responses.
Link Posted: 8/24/2006 7:24:05 PM EDT
I sure wish they did...
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